Rochester jet size ?

Shawn,
It sounds like you've done the float level right. I wasn't questioning your ability, but some people who've not been inside carbs try to eyeball the levels and think that +1/4" is "good enough". I don't think your problem is in the jets. The jets & metering rods are set for 1) steady state cruise and 2) WOT power, both read by plug color, or maybe timing slips at the strip for WOT. What you describe is a transition mixture problem. With air flow restricted by having the throttle plate at 45 it's happy, but with it allowing full air flow it stumbles. That says that it's not getting enough accelerator pump shot in transition. IMO you may have a bad plunger (yes they can be bad out of the package, especially the type using a little circle of chamois leather), or the bore may be simply worn out or marred, or the linkage has been changed/messed with by some PO that didn't understand it. I'd focus on the accelerator pump and see if it gets happy with a stronger shot.

I think your right..........I think the pump shot well bore is just worn out, it appeared to have some wear, but since it did shoot out some gas I overlooked it......

It sends out a a slow arc .....not a nice crisp stream like 1405 edelbrock does....when I replaced the pump, it was nice and tight in the top half of the well above where the seal rides and was considerably larger and looser where the pump seal rides at......maybe 50 years of unkown/fuel and use was just too much for it...I heard ethanol likes to eat aluminum, maybe it accelerated the pump shot bore wear ?

I am thinking maybe just a rebuilt one might be best....hate to surrender and throw parts at it......but I have a pretty good idea the problem is with the carb. With my hand partially over the top of the carb it runs great.........

Thought about tossin the 1405 on there with a 20 dollar adapter plate just to confirm the carb issue......but then that is 20 that could go towards a new carb, along with the 50 I spent on the carb kit and jets and needles and floats....:LOL:

If I knew the air/fuel ratio was not all messed up, I would drive with the choke part closed as this motor is all done at 4500 rpm anyway...the cfm calculators show about 230 cfm as the requirements of this motor at a 4500 top rpm and 225 cubic inches. Torque peak is under 2500 rpm........

Even thought about a one barrel as a replacement since I will be getting a new carb..........might drop the torque peak rpm even lower since that is what this ride will be doing is down low rpm stuff anyway.

I guess I could shim/stuff some stuff under the pump shot seal to just comfirm the problem, maybe wrap under there with some bread ties just as test to see if that cures it...then I would know the well is shot.

Shawn unless I've missed something, at this point I think continuing to concentrate on the carburetor is beating a dead horse.

Before you go any further in that direction, I think it's time to verify the the ignition is correct. Bad/worn/out of adjustment points, worn distributor shaft bushing, worn breaker plate, stuck advance weights and incorrect timing can all cause/contribute to the symptoms you are experiencing. While some of these have been mentioned as possible culprits I don't see where you have addressed any of them yet.

Mike's right, you need to have the ignition right before fine tuning your fuel/air issues.

Down but not out yet........

Getting the steering box pulled tomorrow and taking the box to a rebuilder.......hopefully will find the timing light and see what is happening...opened up the cap and it all looks new in there, so someone was tinkering before I got it.......

Going to get the front end aligned as one tire points way way out.....just a quick alignment as there will be lots of front end work close in the future, but the almost half a turn of steering play has got to go, so a box rebuild is first.

Hope to pull it off in one day...rebuilder says 3 to 4 hours turn around.....

Drove it to work all week long, but the steering concerns me, no need to push it....did not drive it today........less than 3 miles to work and the speed limit is 25 MPH 95 percent of the way. Seems to run well, more than enuff power, no smoke, shifts well..........ratlles like 50 buckets of bots on a steel bed......so I imagine all the body rubber is shot.

Thanks for all the help so far.....will update as soon as I get more info.......just got tired of troubling shooting and had to drive it a bit......big fun even with all the issues, first 4 wheel drive and first jeep........everyone sure likes it, got lots of comments.......lots of thumbs up.

I am pretty happy with it.......no doors and no roof is different.......I am liking it....pretty mild temps around here, I am sure it would be a different story in other parts of the country.

Just thought I would give a update..........have almost the entire interior down to bare metal........was just going to clean the inside up a little and put a new coat of bedliner down....... :LOL: ..I restrained polishing the carb...but fell off the wagon on the interior... :CRY: I wonder if runnin a die grinder and hammer and dolly out in front of a group of retial businesses downtown is pushing it....:LOL:

I have been doing all the work out in front of the store in the parking lot about 8 foot from the front door of 3 businesses...:whacked:

The first day was a little sand paper....the next day a litte aircraft stripper...the next day was rolocs and a paint stripper wheel on a cordless drill.......:eek:

Getting lots of looks anyway...just never been good at determining if they are good or bad......:rolleyes: .......I have been keeping the hammer and dolly work to a minimum as it is like beating on a empty 55 gallon drum with this old jeep.

Day 2 .......

:LOL: ... No one said anything yet.......so might as well dig in.....:LOL:

What's to say?? the floor cleanup looks good, don't see any missing sections or rotted areas.. keep going!
The front end work should help make it more enjoyable to drive. I wonder how long the box is going to last with that tire / wheel combination?

And get the timing dialed in! At least you'll know where it stands and can tune from there, otherwise it's all a crap shoot! And don't forget to verify the vacuum advance is working and not leaking!

The Jeeps looking good, and it's right for the whole interior to be bare metal. Lots of guys around here do LineX or RhinoLiner on the inside of the tub for protection.

As for doing work on the street, in my experience you're going to wear out your welcome pretty fast. The general population knows next to nothing about DIY auto work, and it won't be long before customers mention your work to the shop owners, and the shop owners complain to the police, and, and, and ...... Using paint stripper in a public parking area, which with the old paint residue is going to be considered "hazardous waste"? It cannot end well for you. They'll love the attention it draws when it's all done with people oooohing and ahhhhing about the "cute little jeep", but not until it's done, IMO.

Checked and added gear lube to all 6 spots today.... :LOL:

One plug on each front knuckle....one on each axle one for the trans and one for the transfer case.....it moves on gear oil....thats for sure.


Still digging for the stinkin timing light....I know I used it a couple years ago......:mad:

One last tip that comes to mind for when you assemble the carb. In the kit you should find 2 check balls. They will be different sizes, but it’s a little hard to tell without actually measuring them. In the case of the kits I’ve been getting one ball (the larger) is polished and shiny while the smaller one is not so polished looking. The smaller ball goes in the accelerator pump well. If you happen to just drop the bigger ball into the well, it can jam in the port and be a real PIA to remove. The larger ball goes under the small spring and “T” shaped retainer under the venturi assembly.

Anyway hope this helps a bit.



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The small ball is made of aluminum; the big one is steel, so you can easily tell them apart with a magnetic screwdriver. The steel one sticks to the screwdriver.