Engine is tight

I have been a little concerned about my 460 since I put it back together. I had new pistons pressed onto new wrist pins on the stock rods, and the shop that did the machine work was not all that great. 4 of the 8 where so tight that I could not get them to rotate freely, and could not move them without using both hands. I took them back, and they seem to have fixed them mostly, to a point that I was not concerned. After I reassembled it, I was able to rotate the engine by hand, without a whole lot of difficulty, though it seemed tighter than I liked. I then mounted the heads, which had some nice Comp springs, new flat tappet lifters, new push rods, and now the engine is TIGHT. I really have to crank on this thing to rotate the engine. I use a generous amount of assembly lube putting this thing together, but it just seems like something is wrong. I checked all clearances before and durring assembly, nothing seemed amiss. Could it be the heavy duty springs in the valve train that is causing the hard rotation? also, with all the new parts, could it just be the need for break in? Any info would be great, hope someone can ease my mind. I would REALLY hate to have to tear this thing down again.

I was actually going to use one of the mini high torque starters from jegs

Not built for racing, but built for off road. She is going into my F250 4X4.

While we are talking about this, I have been wondering about the engine drop. They sell those plates that bolt onto the intake where the carb goes, to allow for easy pick and drop into engine compartment. Is it safe to pick up my 460 by an aluminum intake? I am afraid she won't stand the weight. Ever used one of these gadgets on a HEAVY engine?

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Originally posted by 460_fan
Not built for racing, but built for off road. She is going into my F250 4X4.

While we are talking about this, I have been wondering about the engine drop. They sell those plates that bolt onto the intake where the carb goes, to allow for easy pick and drop into engine compartment. Is it safe to pick up my 460 by an aluminum intake? I am afraid she won't stand the weight. Ever used one of these gadgets on a HEAVY engine?

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Yes it ok, I use one on my 460 all the time.

thanks for the info Denny and Ted.

Ted, do you have your 460 completed? If you do, I wonder if I could see some good pics of your install? I am trying to decide how to run all my wires and hoses, and where to mount all my hardware.

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Originally posted by 460_fan
thanks for the info Denny and Ted.

Ted, do you have your 460 completed? If you do, I wonder if I could see some good pics of your install? I am trying to decide how to run all my wires and hoses, and where to mount all my hardware.

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My engine is not complete, It newly built and never been fire, my set up is going to be a little different because I am building a racing car mostly. But you can check out my pics.

460 fan, I have been encourage by pictures from gear heads here and one of them is Phantasea427, Check out his.:3dSMILE:

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Originally posted by DennyW
The main factor on using one of the carb base plates is to make sure the mounting bolts are tight so it doesn't pull threads. I myself, do not use a plate. If it's a tight fit, I install the intake after the engine is in place. Otherwise, I use an adjustable chain, and bolt it to the head, block area.

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Denny, I also have the adjustable chain set up, but have been hesitated to use it on the aluminum head end what you think?

Remove the plugs, disable the valve train and put a torque wrench on the crank snout. It shouldn't require over about 35-45 ft/lbs of "breakaway torque" to start the crank turning. If it does, something is amiss and the motor will be a pig, use too much fuel, run hot and may disassemble itself. Just my opinion, what do I know??

Techinspector,

How do you mean disable the valve train? Take out the pushrods?

I am confident that I am below that torque threshold without valve train, but with valves takes alot more.