What oil is right for a 429?

are there some soft numbers of how many hours/miles?

What are thoughts on the ring seating products that promise very quick ring seat intervals?

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Originally Posted by falcon8r

What are thoughts on the ring seating products that promise very quick ring seat intervals?

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I have used some of the "paste" in the cylinders before that is supose to fill all the low spots and promote better ring sealing.
I have noticed very little difference in leak down or hp/TQ numbers..

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Originally Posted by DennyW

The thing about the loading, is it's on pull only. You need to have bulk weight to load the coast side also. :)

Dago Red, that is how some people believe is the best. I never do that, unless I have a spare one ready to go in if it blows. It takes a little time for all the parts to seat in, not just the rings. I always gradually increase the rpm's after I'm sure things are seated. After that you will know how far you can push it until everything is working together. :)

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Denny,on the dyno the water brake will take care of this issue.

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Originally Posted by DennyW

OK, I see what you mean there, water brake for the load as you accelerate, but, what I'm talking about is when you let off the gas pedal. How do you add load to the motor to seat the rings on the opposite side ? :) The weight of the car does that on the road. If I'm missing something let me know. I may not be up to date on that. :) I found that plain old friction will seat them fine, if done according to the specs of the rings, and bore finish.

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On the engine dyno you are right Denny.
I do understand what you mean by reverse loading.
Dad use to always slowly run them up to 70 mph and then take his foot off the gas and then let it go back to 35 mph.
He did this every time he had a new engine over and over again.

With todays material being processed for the rings, The backloading takes care of itself if you are willing to apply the "vacuum" process Denny suggested. Most importantly for todays rings, Heat sink them. This simply requires running throught the process of break in and parking the darn thing for at least 1 half hour. You're done.

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Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

With todays material being processed for the rings, The backloading takes care of itself if you are willing to apply the "vacuum" process Denny suggested. Most importantly for todays rings, Heat sink them. This simply requires running throught the process of break in and parking the darn thing for at least 1 half hour. You're done.

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Rings today are a much harder than they where 10 years ago.
I will take much more than a "heat cycles " to break in un-less they are the $30 cast rings.

Erik Always brings to the forefront An idea or technological quizzery that I dearly miss. Thanks Erik, I was wondering where you were:LOL: Good point bud, let's find out whether these are coated or ductile sets of rings as for sake of discussion. Also, who set the clearances and double checked the performance under run conditions. One thing that is a constant; HEAT. It has to build the tempermant for life of the engine during it's cycle for life. chrome, "moly's", cast which ever you have set the system up for will need the heat to set. Thanks for bringing the reminder of the construction of the rings forth and what material they could be laced with, they are much better than they ever have been for the longevity purpose of our builds. I appreciate your endevors with your posts Erik.

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Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

Erik Always brings to the forefront An idea or technological quizzery that I dearly miss. Thanks Erik, I was wondering where you were:LOL: Good point bud, let's find out whether these are coated or ductile sets of rings as for sake of discussion. Also, who set the clearances and double checked the performance under run conditions. One thing that is a constant; HEAT. It has to build the tempermant for life of the engine during it's cycle for life. chrome, "moly's", cast which ever you have set the system up for will need the heat to set. Thanks for bringing the reminder of the construction of the rings forth and what material they could be laced with, they are much better than they ever have been for the longevity purpose of our builds. I appreciate your endevors with your posts Erik.

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About twenty years ago if one of the dirt burner cars hit 250 F to many times you would loose your ring seal.
First it would only be a 10 lbs. differance between each hole then it would creep up to 15 lbs. between each hole.
With today's better ring material you can hit 250 F and not loose ring seal or blow head gaskets.
I would rather keep the temp. at 200 F for max. HP/TQ and longevity but this is not always possible.