Oil Pressure Gauge Help???

The particulars:
1967 Ford Mustang
390ci

Instrument panel has Tach with clock in upper center gauge location (non-working).
Currently an oil idiot light is located within the Tach (lower left location)

What I wanted to do: remove clock and install a stock oil pressure gauge in its place.

Friend gives me a working Oil Pressure Gauge (OPG) that would be a natural fit in the clock location.

Oil sensor (button like sensor, coarse thread) is located on the top of the oil filter housing.

UNDER-HOOD
1: remove WHITE with RED stripe wire attached to threaded top of button style oil sensor (90degree connector).
2: remove button style oil sensor
3: install Oil Sensor for oil pressure gauge equipped cars (canister type with coarse thread attachment and small threaded post at the top.
4: re-attach WHITE with RED stripe wire to top of small threaded post atop oil sensor.

INSTRUMENT PANEL
After removal of panel to gain access to gauges.

1: detach wiring to clock, Remove clock
2: install OPG in its location (adapted a mounting system that hold gauge in place, made of plastic)
3: cut WHITE with RED wire going to Oil idiot light and attach to right post (as looking down from above) of the OPG
4: Tap off of the constant voltage regulator (using spade connectors) on back of speedo (for power) and attach this wire to left post (as looking down from above) of OPG.

Problem:
Upon moving starter switch to ON or STARTING engine, OPG does not move.
OPG can be grounded separately and the needle will swing fully, so OPG works.

I have been through 3 Oil Sensor switches (canister types). All the same outcome.
I have been told that these sensors should have a ohm resistance of 20-80ohms.
Is this with the engine running and the sensor in its place?

I even tried running a wire directly from the top post of the oil sensor to the right post of the OPG (by-passing any old car wire problems) and still no movement of the OPG.

Is there something special about a 390 oil sensor that I’m missing?

Can some-one direct me on how to connect a OPG what was a Oil idiot light car?


I’m not educated in the electrical ways of things so talk to a simple mind (tab A into slot B type).

Thanks for any help.


Mike

i could have swore there was another thread similiar to this one on here somewhere :rolleyes:

reposting won't get you a faster answer. just cluters the forum

Well thanks for nothing guys.
Considering this is my first post and I just joined I highly doubt that I'm cluttering up the forum.

Again thanks for the warm welcome.

Now can anyone help rather than complain?

What can we say about old timers....................................?
Is your adapter where the sensor goes plugged?
Did the dummy light work?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kbmwgt

Well thanks for nothing guys.
Considering this is my first post and I just joined I highly doubt that I'm cluttering up the forum.

Again thanks for the warm welcome.

Now can anyone help rather than complain?

---

OK
LETS JUST ALL SETTLE DOWN FOR A MINUTE.

;)

it is the usual internet website etiquette to introduce yourself first.
and THEN demand immediate information on technical matters.


BTW
hi i am bill
now i will do a search on the intergooglyweb and see if i can find some information for you.

Assuming your directions are correct, the first step is (and I think it was discussed on the other post of yours) to figure out if you have the correct sender. IF you have a sender for an idiot light, the sender is an on/off switch that is preset to a certain pressure. IF you have a sender for a gauge, it is a variable resistor. USUALLY, measuring the resistance of the on/off switch results in a zero or near-zero reading. As you already said, the gauge sender should have a resistance of 20-80 ohms. Measure it either on or off the engine...doesnt matter. After installing it on the engine, measure it again from the sender terminal to the engine block.....if the circuit is open (no reading), you found your problem and it is teflon tape or similar insulating problem. If the resistance goes high, you have continuity but there is something in the path....like rust, pipe dope, etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kbmwgt

Well thanks for nothing guys.
Considering this is my first post and I just joined I highly doubt that I'm cluttering up the forum.

Again thanks for the warm welcome.

Now can anyone help rather than complain?

---

OK Mike, did you bother to look at your first post of this question?? http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...auge-help.html

This is exactly why it's a bad idea to do multiple posts of the same info. Everyone gets riled, you've got info coming at you from two or more directions, etc, etc. You'll find a lot of very knowledgable guys & gals here (present poster excluded) if you don't get mad and leave.

I still suggest you politely ask the moderator if he can combine your two posts, or simply delete this one - PM mrmustang, but don't rant...

So I guess my replys to you were for nothing? Instead of ranting, check you "other" post!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trjohn57

What can we say about old timers....................................?
Is your adapter where the sensor goes plugged?
Did the dummy light work?

---

No adapter on a 390.....Oil Sensor is screwed to top of oil filter housing.
Plugged as in the oil access hole is blocked I doubt it because yes the idiot light did work (meaning it wasn't on) prior to this project.

I understand that the sensors are very prone to be bad, even new, but I have gone through 3 already.
I know the gauge works because if I ground it the needle pegs. I'm also guessing because of this I also have the correct low voltage needed from the volatge regulator.

Am I missing something?

will any of these help. Usualy an op sw and guage are a real easy do if they are compatable. using a different sender than the guage is for won't give a accurate reading. if these don't help you can do a search on yahoo for oil presure switch wireing and look at images

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by billy zz

OK
LETS JUST ALL SETTLE DOWN FOR A MINUTE.

;)

it is the usual internet website etiquette to introduce yourself first.
and THEN demand immediate information on technical matters.


BTW
hi i am bill
now i will do a search on the intergooglyweb and see if i can find some information for you.

---

I apolgize Bill.

I should have not just joined and asked without introducing myself.
Mike here. California, SF Bay Area.

1967 Mustang Fastback with a 390.

I guess this problem has me looking for a solution withot proper etiqitue (sp?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rspears

OK Mike, did you bother to look at your first post of this question?? http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...auge-help.html

This is exactly why it's a bad idea to do multiple posts of the same info. Everyone gets riled, you've got info coming at you from two or more directions, etc, etc. You'll find a lot of very knowledgable guys & gals here (present poster excluded) if you don't get mad and leave.

I still suggest you politely ask the moderator if he can combine your two posts, or simply delete this one - PM mrmustang, but don't rant...

---

You mean there's two posts of mine here? Where? I only see one.
Ah in the Shop Talk....I didn't know it was there. Honest.
No wonder you guys are all over me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kbmwgt

You mean there's two posts of mine here? Where? I only see one.
Ah in the Shop Talk....I didn't know it was there. Honest.
No wonder you guys are all over me.

---

Mike, your first post was in Shop Talk at 11:21am, and then that was reposted at 3:17pm with exactly the same title and identical text, which seems to point to a cut & paste operation. Kind of hard to believe that this happened as a fluke, but bottom line you need to look back at both posts, digest the information posted in both places and see if you think we've helped you chase down your answer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kbmwgt

No adapter on a 390.....Oil Sensor is screwed to top of oil filter housing.
Plugged as in the oil access hole is blocked I doubt it because yes the idiot light did work (meaning it wasn't on) prior to this project.

I understand that the sensors are very prone to be bad, even new, but I have gone through 3 already.
I know the gauge works because if I ground it the needle pegs. I'm also guessing because of this I also have the correct low voltage needed from the volatge regulator.

Am I missing something?

---

I believe you are missing the question, from what I have highlighted, you are saying you are using the sensor for the idiot light . Read the name of the manufacture from the gauge, order the sensor. If you cannot find the name upload a picture of the gauge . Real sure someone here will be able to id it.

Not sure but if I were a betting man i would guess there are 3 to 4 sensor manufactures and there is a good chance less the that. Electrical oil pressure sending units have been around for quite awhile and are reliable overall.

You know the gauge works, question are you grounding it using the wire that is attached or will be attached to the sender? If not use that wire it will prove the integrity of the circuit . Just one more thing, most gauges work on the full 12 vdc if we are talking SW or Autolite style .

Thanks.

The gauge is a 1967 Ford Mustang. The sensor was changed from a button type (sensing 5psi or lower) for the idiot light to the cannister type which Ford had used for years (uses a resistor).

The gauge is a two post type. One for the stepped down power of 5 v and the other going to the sensor. I'm told less resistance in the sesnor more power to the gauge...needle moves.

It seems that power is going through all the right places which points to the sensor/sending unit. I was hoping I guess that some-one would slap me and say you forgot.........something......but. I guess more tesing is needed to track down the problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kbmwgt

Thanks.

The gauge is a 1967 Ford Mustang. The sensor was changed from a button type (sensing 5psi or lower) for the idiot light to the cannister type which Ford had used for years (uses a resistor).

The gauge is a two post type. One for the stepped down power of 5 v and the other going to the sensor. I'm told less resistance in the sesnor more power to the gauge...needle moves.

It seems that power is going through all the right places which points to the sensor/sending unit. I was hoping I guess that some-one would slap me and say you forgot.........something......but. I guess more tesing is needed to track down the problem.

---

I would think you could check your sending unit pretty easy, but it might take a second pair of hands or some aligator clips on meter leads. Put an ohm meter on your sending unit from the output terminal to the case and you'll see resistance. Then set your air supply regulator to say 40psig, put a nozzle on the hose and blow that pressure into the end of the sending unit. Should see a change in resistance, right? Seems logical to me, but could be too simple?

do you have the sending unit for the guage you are using???????????If no then I would get it and quit guessing. If yes call or go to them and get the directions..... maybe you should just not use the ford harness as its is not working for you???? An op gauge is as easy as adding a light to the trunk.

5v is a computer type thing---you don't have the correct matching parts--simplest way for me to tell you to fix it is to buy a guage/sender combo from an reputable company---or go to a mech guage because you are coming up short on the PIE stuff----

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

5v is a computer type thing---you don't have the correct matching parts--simplest way for me to tell you to fix it is to buy a guage/sender combo from an reputable company---or go to a mech guage because you are coming up short on the PIE stuff----

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Jerry's right (as usual), if your gauge is a 1967 unit it's going to be looking for a 12V feed with the variable resistor controlling the current. Sounds like maybe you have a more modern sending unit, meant for an ECU vehicle? Where did you get the 5V information?

He may be correct as many fords used a resistor for their gauges well into the 70's! You can use gauges from a 70's pickup and insert them straight into a 48 f-1 !

If he's using a ford gauge and a ford wire and a ford sending unit, it should (in theory) WORK! Unless there is an optional gauge cluster in the center of the dash or some other wires have been "re-purposed?!?!?

Maybe try a separate (new) piece of wire to run from the gauge to the sending unit and eliminate all the other stuff as a test? I never heard from him if he did test the wire by grounding at the block the connection that would go to the sending unit and what those results were.. or did I miss that?

Going to try that this weekend.