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Some thing nobady has touched on is the quality of the resin used in the repair.
That JUNK you buy in the gallon cans @ the supply house or big box stores is not the hi quality resin that N&N uses.
Just my 2 cents and 45+ years of playin with glass, both auto and marine
And that could be a contributing factor, Jerry. I know that I bought one gallon can of resin at the paint shop, but I've also bought some at the auto parts place and I can't really say for sure what I used on the hood extension. Duane didn't mention that when we talked, but then again he may have assumed I was buying from a supplier like he uses.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
yes i did post on junk product... post 395 and 395now every one want,s to get in a pissing contest about GELL :) some time s it is no more then polyester resin with some thickener in it and like i said if air cured glass panel and thin with poor product nothing going to stop it from moving . has for how much money spent on job s yep them Jon S airbactic air planes had to look better then ok .been playing with glass for over 30 years and do not miss working on the SMC parts or sanding on wing s that had carbon fiber on themQuote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
a fast way to put color in the finish part . when parts in the mold. ... first spayed in and top finsih many times ... NO need for filler to hide mat marks for cloth marks not need. when parts out of mold no time waiting to sand and block finish with any fillers after out of mold. not alot of skilled worker to block parts need or painters ... very fast way to make a part if using a chopper gun . BUT.. i fixed alot of gell that pop off a part when you started going after in looking for voids . if i was going to re coat the part if it was not of a good product .l would be striped of all old gell and would go epoxy West System s .OH i think mild year s like black or white glass vetts were not all glass some parts were SMC that did not have any gell on it from GM 69 and up all were SMC i worked on them to :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Well, I hope you don't mind terribly, but I believe I'll continue using gell coat over bare glass. Not being an "expert" like so many others, I believe I'll continue to use the products and methods that the people who build and repair 'glass cars recommend.
For what it's worth, the "read-out" has all but disappeared, and the two bubbles were perhaps 0.025" above the surface (calibrated fingertip, not miked), too small to puncture with an insulin syringe needle (two holes) to inject super glue and press flat. At a local gathering, sitting in the hot sun with no cloud cover all morning it was judged "Best in Class - Street Rods" against a dozen or more pretty nice cars so it's not too shabby. Like I said, I plan to let it cook through July, August and into the early Fall, then when the local car scene has calmed down I'll figure out if it's worth the effort to work it down and repaint it. I may even make a trip down to N&N if the mood hits me, and bounce it around with him for a bit.
when the body builder way fails use what you like :) the fast way for a finish on a part is gell not the best if product is poor and not the only way .. polyester gell is not the best top coat that can be put on and if of a low grade. it better to be raw glass with no bull shit on it :) yep you need to keep were your comfort zone is dave use ......what you like and works for you..... i am lucky if i need information i am not far from the west system.s and seen Jon S build many plugs and lay up carbon fiber bodys. and airplane parts with no gell ..... as for glass and wood and steel he is more then a expert . one of the hi points in my life was to paint and do glass finish work for him and he has been my land lord for the last 20years am lucky to see some of his unreal workmanship on plans boats and cars a was lucky to be a very small part of it on the planes
On another note, when I had the engine & tranny pulled my son-in-law mentioned that he had picked up an after market, short throw shifter for his new Mustang, and that it was an amazing difference in shift accuracy and feel. I looked around, and the one that seemed to offer the best potential improvement while allowing me to use my Hurst stick was the STEEDA Triax. Bought one, swapped it out while everything was out of the car (my tunnel has one nominal 4" hole for the shifter boot penetration, not nearly enough to swap a shifter without surgery) and hoped for the best. I've gotta say I'm very pleased with the increased spring tension to the "center" gate, which is what makes or breaks the 2-3 shift. The shifter action is much crisper, and position definition is improved, too. I'm happy I swapped out the OEM shifter for a STEEDA.
Always nice when the plan comes together!
Attachment 58761Attachment 58762Attachment 58763Attachment 58764Roger, Hi my name is wayne rogan and i just read though your build site for your '33... I too bought one from Dewayne and now am just getting it together for the last time.. body got painted last week and i just did the last of the rub out on it today.. i'm new to the site having just come across it last night so i'll have to post some pictures of my build.... anyway nice hot rod and enjoyed seeing your build... wayne
Hi Wayne,Quote:
Originally Posted by parkwood
Wow, looks like you've done a fantastic job on the '33/34, and the color really POPS! Duane had one almost identical to yours several years back, and he sold it to a guy in Oklahoma who added some of the prettiest flames I've ever seen. Duane walked around the Oklahoma City Fairgrounds with me & my wife at the NSRA show in Spring 2009, pointed out this car as one he had done a couple of years before, and I ordered mine from him a few months later!
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I'd love to see a build thread on yours if you took progress pictures along the way! Or if you don't want to go back all the way to the start maybe start a thread and post continue the updates as you get it finished! Welcome to CHR!! Love the car!!
Roger thanks a lot, I think Duane told me about that car when i was talking to him. The reason i ordered from him was the magazine write ups they did in Street Rod Builder... i was dealing with another company on one of their body and frame kits but everything i wanted to do they didn't want me to do it that way, but when i called and talked to Duane and told him what i wanted to do he would say "thats great and i've done that or that would look good" didn't take long for me to send him a check... What a great guy and wish i could meet him some day..
As soon as i figure out the site a little more i would like to post some pictures and see if the guys like what i've done.. Wayne
Wayne,
You're right, Duane Noblett is just a great guy, and you can't ask for a better guy to do business with - top drawer all the way! It looks like you've got the picture posting down pat, but there's a "sticky" thread for a description of two different ways - http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...tml?highlight= On the "Home" page click "Forums", select the one where you want your thread to reside and open that one and you'll see "New Thread". A few clicks and you're off & running!!
Wayne, that tin work (hood and splash aprons) in bare metal really compliments the '33 grille. Good way to show why some prefer the more "elegant" styling of the '33 over the '34 (which is still beautiful in it's own right). I'll second Roger's suggestion that you post up your own thread with build shots.
For all that California has evolved into an armpit (IMO), if I had to live there again it would be fun to have a return address of Shingle Springs................:D
Wayne, where is Shingle Springs? I'm guessing Redwood country, maybe near Willow Creek?
Jack.
Up towards Lake Tahoe, beautiful little spot to live in!
Jack, shingle springs is about 9 miles west of Placerville Ca. on hwy 50..Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack F
Bob,Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Got to agree with you about the state of affairs going on here in west. I followed my kids up here from Irvine so the wife could be near the grandkids... i'm always telling the kids that i wished they would have moved out of the state but didn't work out that way...will work on my own thread so as not to high jack Rogers any more...
Wayne, that is awesome work you've done. Since you guys are showing eye candy pics, I have a tech question for ya. When reassembling, after bolt heads get scarred up by tooling, do you guys just touch them up? Or, is it just a better practice to have your bolts and hardware coated with zinc, or even chrome?
The bolts/washers/nuts on the chrome suspension components are chromed. For others on the bottom side I did them the same as the frame - two coats of epoxy primer, then finish coat black. After install I just had a bit of catalyzed single stage for touchup, but they really didn't bet scarred up much. Mine's a pure driver, and I live a bit over 1/2 mile back on a gravel road, so I was not going for so much eye candy approach on mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Thanks. From now on on my builds I'm going to try to quit using poof cans and use real paint. I'm tired of the stuff looking crappy after assembly etc. So I'm trying to see what is working for others. Ryan.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Ryan, like Roger said all the bolts and nuts on the suspension are chrome, but on mine almost every other bolt and nut are Stainless Steel... i polished each and everyone. once polished they stay bright for life... makes it easy to clean.
I'll offer that the polished stainless steel bolts look good, but you want to be careful using them in high stress dynamic applications as their tensile strength characteristics are considerably different than carbon steel. In particular a SS bolt is subject to work hardening and failure in dynamic situations. A buddy used six big button head SS bolts polished to a high luster to hold his crank pulley on the front of the dampner, and after about six months of running found five of six broken and the pulley flopping around when he pulled off the road at a gathering. There's a reason OEM's don't use SS for things like wheel studs. Just be sure of your use and choose the material & tensile strength accordingly.Quote:
Originally Posted by parkwood
you got it Roger, nothing with stress on it.... don't want to have the shiny side upside one day...
Isn't that the truth!!Quote:
Originally Posted by parkwood
Something we all need to be reminded about, thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
You can get 17-4 stainless steel bolts that have nearly twice the tensile strength of typical 18-8 (304). Click on the high-strength corrosion resistant type.
McMaster-Carr
Good info here (above) and a valuable reminder... FYI, most of the stainless bolts available at your local hardware store are grade-4; OK in many applications, but not good for high stress.
I agree in spades, Jim. And although "high strength, corrosion resistant" bolts are close to twice the strength of the regular SS bolts offered, they are still only slightly higher in strength than a Grade 5 CS bolt. For critical, dynamic service a Grade 8 CS fastener is the right choice. Use SS for non-critical services where you want the "bling" of a polished fastener, not where you're relying on it for safety.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Robinson
Back in 2010 I laid-back the radiator and grille, which put the filler neck in a very awkward position. To fill the radiator I either parked on a steep slope or jacked up the rear of the car a foot or more. I finally got fed up with it and started looking at options, like adding a filler neck in the top radiator hose, but everything's just too tight. I finally decided the only fix was to cut the top weld, leaving it connected at the bottom, take a pie cut and bend it level.
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I visited with friend Nate Boyer who has Kultured Customs shop, and he said he could do it without taking the radiator out! Sweet!! He ended up chasing pinhole leaks in the old weld, adjacent to his work, and finally just welded around the whole seam because of internal contaminants from 10 years of use. It's going to be so much easier to check & add coolant! Great to have friends who are builders!
Good idea! Came out nice too.
Today I changed the old coolant and it was easy peezy! I first drained the system and measured the volume to find that 2 gallons would be more than enough. At the Auto Parts Store a gallon of concentrate was $15.99, or a gallon of 50/50 dilluted was $12.99...... So I can buy 2 gallons of 50/50 for $26, or one gallon of concentrate for $15.99 and add my own water to have 2 gallons? Are people really that stupid? Yes, I came home with one jug, and quickly had 2 gallons of 50/50. Since I had drilled a 1/8" hole in the thermostat plate the fill was super easy with the new fill neck!
Next is replacing the relay based pushbutton start with a traditional keyed ignition switch, another of those things that I've tired of since the initial build...
1. - YES, people can be that stupid!
2. - What's with the PB start? I thought everyone loved it? I don't have one so enquiring minds want to know! Do tell.
what's the hub..... bub...??? LOL
.
Back in 2010 the options for PB start were limited but I found one from Watson's StreetWorks, a multiple relay system with a maintained "Accessory" PB and a second spring return to "ON" PB for "Start". The down side is that there's no security, like the key fob on a modern PB start, so the only thing you can do is hide a toggle switch that breaks the connection to ground. I have two, one a simple toggle, and one that's a security key like you see on vending machine coin boxes, the circular key with custom cutouts. A problem is that the "Start" PB engages the starter, then spring returns to "ON". If the engine does not start on the initial crank you must press the PB to "OFF", then the next push engages the starter again. With my EFI, the logic enriches the injector pulse width on the initial "Start", then if you reengage the starter it drops back to the normal "RUN" pulse on the injectors. However, if you turn the key "OFF", it resets the logic and triggers the enriched pulse. For me, with the PB Relays, every time the starter is engaged it's pushing extra fuel, tending to flood the engine, or worse wash the cylinders. It's time to abandon the relays and PB's, and put in a key switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
AH! I get it now. I think it's strange "they" didn't provide a circuit to power the ignition during crank but... no matter.
Applying the KISS principal is usually best anyway. As an aside, The Ford starter solenoid from the early 60's with 4 posts, the post closest to the battery terminal connection as you probably know operates the relay.. the one to the right of that is to feed battery power to the ignition during cranking. Or you can also add a wire to the starter connection at the solenoid to power the ignition during cranking.. (if you need to)
My ignition is powered during crank now. The issue is the EFI logic that applies a longer injector pulse (more fuel) during the first crank, and that my pushbutton makes every crank a "first crank". I have to turn the ignition "OFF" before it will energize "START" again. Watson should have used one button for ACC, one for IGN ON, then one for START which means that I could also add a momentary button for START and take that wire off of the relay that feeds it now..... but then I'd have another ignition switch in my "stash".
I don't remember when Ford eliminated the "push button to start" feature. I seem to remember it was on the 52 I had and for sure on the 36 and 40. The ignition key on the 40 also locked the steering column.
I wasn't "speaking" directly to you.. more for um... general consumption amongst the masses - being what they are. And the "stash" is what we used to bring to the swap meet. I miss those days :confused::(Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Yeah, whether you were talking to me or not, the masses in general, or a specific member in need is moot. As I thought about it I decided that I really don't mind the PB start, but I HATE the ON-OFF-ON-OFF of the ignition circuit during START so I ordered an old school chrome momentary "START" button from NAPA and I'm going to do that for now instead of the key switch. I think I'll like the change, and if not I'll use the hole I drill for the new PB for my key switch!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I think that will solve your problem as it will function the same as a normal ignition switch when turned to the 'start' position.;)
