:LOL::LOL::LOL: The bottle is full and unopened....Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
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:LOL::LOL::LOL: The bottle is full and unopened....Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Roger - I think we MIGHT have believed that statement had the cork not been so conveniently pictured:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:. I'm with Steve:D > Now about the Fish Eye(s)...........
That bottle is unopened :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Seriously, I picked up a Finex (by Sharpe) FX3000 gun yesterday (could not justify Sata or Iwata cost) and shot a bunch of cast pieces (brake calipers, caliper mounts, bolt heads and nuts, etc) and axle flanges that I had overlooked - a coat of epoxy primer, a coat of base single stage black and a coat of 50/50 black and clear. Before priming I soaked everything liberally with lacquer thinner from a spray bottle, wiped dry and blew with air. The new gun worked great with a definite difference in atomization. Since these were not "critical" parts I just hung them outside on a 2x4 supported by ladders so I was not in the same environment - did not want to take time to segregate the shop, and not overly concerned with a bit of dust or a bug or two. Also, I put a gun mounted regulator on the new gun, to be sure of the actual pressure at the gun - I may have been losing 5 or 10psi before and not realized it. One of these days I will mount the regulator on the HF "Pro" gun, mix up some primer and try it again on a test panel to see if that was the problem. For now, it is assembly time!!
I'd prefer a nice Port! :LOL::LOL:**)Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
That is good news Roger! Glad that you're ready for assembly, (read that as jealous)... :rolleyes:
I found that with HVLP, the only way to get a good result was to know the exact pressure, so I had a gun regulatore even on my primer gun (also HVLP). I had to have the regulator. I couldn't remember enough from my college fruids (I had a Chinese prof) class to calculate it. :p
You mean carcurate?? I had one too, but in a machine analysis six week summer session - it was a breakthrough when I finally discovered that the parrarraragram raw was simply the parallelegram law:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
This is what worked for me. This first photo is a fairly good gauge 0-100 rather then the usual 0-160 $5 POS that is usually supplied with a gun regulator. It's also non restrictive.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...egulator11.jpg
This second photo is my actual regulator and it's on the air dryer outlet.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...0429057-11.jpg
These are my dryers. The photos are 'early' in my painting and were taken before I had added the regulator.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...filtration.jpg
My reasoning for these devices is that I can regulate the air to the gun before the hose, then check the PSIG at the gun. I can then remove the gauge, leaving myself at least another foot of floor clearance without that poor ball valve and gauge arrangement (figured with the hose curl and possibly a last chance filter as taking that foot) plus maintaining gun balance
Like I said, it did work just fine for me:D
Good setup Dave!
OK, this is not one of those scrubbed shop shots, but here's the status as of about 10am this morning. I haven't added fluid to the differential, tranny, engine or master cylinders yet, but everything is buttoned up and tight.
Looks really great rspears! Keep up the good work. don Jr.:)
NICE! Very Very Nice! Good Job!
Sweet looking! Love the look of the megaphones.....
David
Roger,
Great work. Times like this make you feel like you're making progress, don't they? Looking at this makes me think about how I would do it if I started all over again.
BTW, I'm waiting to see if Kansas charges you more to license it than you paid to build it. ;)
Bite your tounge!!!:LOL::o:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Scary thought with taxes. I had set aside a couple thousand bucks for NY taxes and fees - all they nailed me for was $119 plus a two year license fee and $10 for the actual plates for a total of $179. Now I have enough left over to pay for the new seats I need for knee to chin clearance(they're coming Friday)
Roger, congratulations, it looks great!! You've come a long way since our first conversations after reading the Street Rod Builder articles. :)
Mike
After putting my '33 (titled as a replica in VA) on the road, I have received NO property tax bills. The only tax I had to pay was 3% on the cost of the body, frame, engine and transmission - and, that was a one-time cost.
(Notice: If anyone from the Virginia DMV is reading this, I DON'T LIVE THERE ANY MORE :p)
Guys,
Thanks for all of the kind words which mean a lot to me, coming from this group of builders.
Mike, Thank you - I have come a ways since we first talked but had hoped to be done by now. I might not have taken this plunge without your encouragement, and I am anxious to see your progress when you are able to focus on your coupe. With the amount of research and good ideas you have gathered I'm sure it is going to be a beauty! You have given me several really good example photos when I had questions.
Jack and Dave, the tax and registration reality is one of the areas where I am most leery - totally exposed to the DMV! And Jack you may be moving when you come back stateside :LOL:
Don Jr, David and 34_40, I appreciate your comments. We do things our own way and see beauty, but it really helps when they meet with approval from others, too. David, one of my boys says the megaphones are a "defining feature" of the car! I think that meant he likes them, too. ;)
Now to wire it without burning it to the ground!!
Jack - if I'm reading this correctly, I should then retitle my car as a replica instead of a restoration/OEM as it currently is registered in NY, with approprate taxes paid, when (IF?) we end up moving there. (Or do I just suck it up and pay the yearly property tax:CRY: )Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Dave,
If it's already titled in NY, I have no idea whether you can register it as a replica in VA. If I were you, I would give it a shot and see what happens. I know that if a car is already registered as an antique or specially constructed vehicle in VA, you can't go back and re-title it as a replica. I believe that the replica title is a better deal in VA than the other options.
Info is at this linky.
If you have separate proof of ownership for the body, frame, engine, trans and rear end, you may be able to ignore the current title and start in VA as if you never had one.
Roger,
Texas has three years to pass a decent law, or I could be in deep doo.
Have been watching this thread,and I have enjoyed your build..Looks kool..I also like your megs..:cool:
The thing that scares me is this property tax you guys are talking about...Is it a licensing type thing? or is it another way of them screwing you guys who build/restore a car??We pay a registration fee like anyone else,annually,to drive our cars,and I am just wondering if this is the same?:confused:Which comes down to this,,does a scratch build cost more to put on the road than a restored vehicle??
Thanks, lamin8r. In Kansas we pay a small license/registration fee annualy for each vehicle, but the bulk of the county revenue is via personal property tax which is levied on your house, trailers, and vehicles of all kinds. Vehicle property tax is collected at the vehicle registration time, to get tags or annual stickers for existing tags, and it based on the assessed value of the vehicle - a new $60k vehicle may pay $1200 the first year, decreasing as the cars value drops (my old '90 F150 is about $50). When you purchase a vehicle the seller generally does not collect sales tax, which is also due to the state, county and local governments. Mine is about 8.5%, a one time hit. We tend to lump it all into "property tax" due at registration, and the big unknown is the assessed value determined by the DMV. Other states are different. This is part of the issue in CA now - some of the big guys were getting a new high dollar build assessed and licensed in another state, then bringing it into CA and paying annual property tax on $30k vs $300k.Quote:
Originally Posted by lamin8r
This is likely not going to sit well with many of you, but we live a mile back on a gravel road and plan to be here for several years yet so I looked at options for the bottom of the body to eliminate concerns with rocks thrown up from the tires. I considered LizardSkin, but did not see that it added enough advantage to justify the cost delta and installation hassles. My Jeepin' buddy's swear by HercuLiner, which is a bed liner material applied with brush & roller, but also used for Jeep tubs, undercoating and general tough protection duty. Love it or hate it, that's what I did for the bottom of the body and I really like the way it turned out. I masked off the area where the body sits on the frame. They say two coats minimum, and I got four out of the gallon with only a tiny bit left over, and the look improved drastically with the third coat. It's tough as nails, and I believe it will also quiet the road noise considerably.
Nothing at all wrong with Herculiner on the bottom of a driver!!!! On our '49 Mercs we use it on the inside of the fenders to keep from star cracking the 'glass... BTW, same thing will be going on the insides of the fenders on the '36 Plymouth in the garage now. On a show car that does most of it's travelling in a trailer paint is great, but where durability on a driver is needed, bed liner works great...Quiets down the road noise a bunch, too...
I think that was a kick-ass idea. Insulation & stone protection .... great decision. I will be considering this as an option & I don't even live on a dirt/stone driveway!!
I also think it comes in colors??
REGS
Thanks for the comment. Yes, HercuLiner comes White, Red, Gray and Black. They also have a UV protectant that is supposed to slow/stop the dulling affects of sunlight, but I'm not sure how much of an issue that is for the bottom side of a car...:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by REGs
I am with you. I was thinking of using lizard skin as well but couldn't find anyone that used it but had a few people ( some on this forum) recommend bedliner as well. I am going to coat the whole underside of my car including fenders. I bought the sem kit with the gun. I think I am even going to use it on both sides of my running boards. Since my car will be used for a daily driver I know the running boards will be stepped on a lot from my kids. I also live down a grave road and need the added protection.
Good idea, Roger. I have heard of people doing this on the inside of their fenders with Rhino-liner and other such professionally installed spray-on bed liners. But you saved yourself a few bucks doing it this way. I like the looks of it. Nice texture.
FYI, the best price I found locally was at our ACE hardware stores, $74.99 for the gallon kit. Local auto parts (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, NAPA) ranged from $90 up to $110. ACE did not stock it, but ordered it in from their warehouse, no added shipping. With 3 or 4 coats it looks comparable to LineX and RhinoLiner, IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrumm
Roger, looking at the 3rd pic with the body back on the chassis, it appears you're getting very close to the first 'test drive'. How far away are you and do you have a bottle of champagne ready for the big day?
Mike
Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike52
I am enjoying putting things together knowing that they are meant to stay together. Still have a ways to go, including wiring and first fire. I hope to take a shakedown road trip to Sioux Falls, SD before Halloween to take Scott Sehr (engine builder) for a ride. I'm really hoping to drive it to the Ol' Marais River Run in Ottawa, KS September 18 but that's going to be a stretch.**)
Well, today was one of those silk purse from a sow's ear days. The before & after... Still have to paint and install the plastic cover pieces for the outer spring/hinge mechanism and the handles for the back adjustment, but I am pleased with the way my $30 Fiero seats look after a day invested.
Nice work Roger! Fill us in on the hows and with whats!
Several months back I scored a pair of Fiero seats for $30 at a small local salvage yard. I started looking around at upholstery alternatives, talked to a couple of custom interior guys, and then found a guy in Florida that offers several different styles of covers for stock Fiero seats, as well as Miata's, Vette's, and others. http://mrmikes.com/ Turns out that Fiero seats were made by the Lear Company (Lear Jet) for GM, and they are often used in some high dollar sports rides replacing OEM seats. They sit very low and have a lot of adjustment for leg room.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
The custom guys were quoting about $1200 to cover the seats alone, and I elected to get a set of leatherette covers from MrMike and do it myself, along with a set of seat heaters - my wife loves them. I also got a roll of matching material for other interior needs, yet to come. R&R took most of the day, including retrofitting the speakers in one headrest (I had one with factory speakers, one without). I like the way they look and feel, especially considering the repairs to the bolsters that were needed.
WOW! Those look great. I'm starting to look at seats to change into HOMADE. Those look pretty sweet - and speakers in the headrest to boot!
Today was a milestone day. Started working on locating the fuse block, but my son was coming by about 2:30pm to drop off his coonhound, Homer, for a weekend football trip and he said he would help with priming the engine (one to run the drill, one to rotate the engine to open oil passages). We got 65psig on a direct reading gauge and good oil flow through all pushrods. Still had time to set the distributor, and install the intake and get it torqued down. With that done I can install the wiring on the engine, get the rest of the wiring done, install hoses and move toward first fire. I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, and I'm hoping it's not a train heading my way :eek: I may actually get to drive this thing before it's too cold to enjoy it!!
Well, my wallet is a bit lighter, but I now have a VIN assigned, insurance paid, and registration :CRY: complete. Still have lots of work to do, but now at least I can drive the beast between times it is down for more work. The VIN process was painless, but the registration process was long and painful, with the ladies wanting receipts for every nut, bolt and washer purchased for the vehicle. If anyone is going through this process in Kansas I have some thoughts to share with you that will save you some $$$$;) Here's the beast after getting a new VIN, but before I was assaulted at the DMV..... Took it for a short drive to break in the differential gears. What a hoot!!
I see that Kansas registration still sucks.
They title as 2010 Assembled Vehicle's so that they can tax at a 2010 rate, $466/yr for my coupe for this first hit. The bite is that they establish the "Assessed Value" equal to what you admit spending to build, everything down to nuts, bolts & washers. The bigger bite is that they want to see receipts for everything you admit spending, and they review them one by one to see if you paid sales tax or not, and if not you get to pay it to them. My "unpaid tax" bile was $2,564, so my total to get a plate was a bit over $3k. I was not happy, but also knew better than to make a fuss when I was in a no-win situation..... I've already reminded the state rep's that they promised to re-introduce the SEMA Bill in the 2011 session, to title vehicles as the year they replicate. We'll see....Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Wow, that really bites Rog!!!! The state sure does seem to get their fair share!! What is the tax rate on sales of new and used cars in Ks????
It varies by municipality, but right at 9% across the board. They get their share...:oQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson