Holy buckets!!!!
The state sure does put a hurt on the car wold in Kansas!!! That's gotta be a bunch of revenue for the state!!! Hope taxes on everything else is cheap!
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Holy buckets!!!!
The state sure does put a hurt on the car wold in Kansas!!! That's gotta be a bunch of revenue for the state!!! Hope taxes on everything else is cheap!
:LOL::LOL::LOL:Nope, that's a standard sales tax, 8.65% in our little burg, as I recall and I think they added in another bump recently to just over 9%. It's only 8.25 or so in Olathe, an nothing is exempt in KS - everything sold gets a tax bump....Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Roger,
Since it's a "2010" Ford, do you get hit for emisssions controls on the engine, etc?
Dave,
The process in Kansas is primarily the result of the work of an acrimonious old fart who used to work at the DMV in Overland Park (as opposed to the acrimonious old farts on this forum :LOL:). He made getting a hot rod licensed a trip to hell and back. He's now retired, as I remember, but his process lives on. Of course, the politicions see the green, and most of them don't know a hot rod from a hot dog.
Texas is not good either, from what I hear. I hope they get the SEMA law before 2013 when I return to the States.
That sounds like a bargain compared to our 13% here in Ontario. To make matters worse if this is a build, unless you have registered your vehicle as unfit prior to building it, the tax will apply to the full appraised value whether or not you have paid tax on the parts you used. That means that if you buy a $1000 shell, improve it until it is worth $20,000, you will pay 13% on the full value unless you had the foresight to register the original $1000 car as unfit. How's that for 'fair.'Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Jack,Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Nope, it is titled as "2010 ASVE, Ford 33, Coupe" for Make, Model and Style. My understanding is that the emissions controls rules are not imposed on "Assembled Specialty Vehicles". I trailered to the DMV, as they have been known to impound vehicles in certain situations, and they asked for receipts for the body, frame, engine and transmission, asking if each was new or salvage. My engine receipt had a salvage VIN listed, so they were happy. Other than that the gal only looked at the vehicle to see where to put the VIN ID plate, commenting about how it was such a "cute car". I was impressed that she recognized it had a Ford engine when she said, "Oh, you've even put a Ford engine in it." There was absolutely no inspection, or even a question about the car. I was concerned that my lake pipes were going to be questioned as they are quite loud even with the baffles, but they did not ask me to light it off. The pain came later......
I have already reminded our state rep's of their promise to re-introduce their SEMA Bill for the 2011 session. Not sure what impact it will have, but mine would have been titled "1933 Ford" if it passes, which some see as a good thing, others see as bad.
As much other crap as there is to dislike about NY State, my registering and tax bill on July 1 was a nothing in comparison - but of course, I cheated a weeeee bit, but that's what it sometimes takes and is a part of the game hot rodders play with the state. I had my 4" thick folder of receipts, just in case but the ladies really didn't care - all they wanted was a bill of sale, an insurance card and $179 ($119 taxes and a $60 license fee, which included the plate cost and fees). No one looked at the car until I had the state "safety" inspection and that is done at an independent garage and is a joke. I received my temporary registration with the admonishment that it "would be reviewed in Albany". It evidently wasn't (or maybe no one gave a dam' ) and 30 days later in rolls my permanent registration - the car year is too old for the title system which began in 1972.
Roger - congratulations on making it drivable (and condolences for the check book deflation )
Today I was waiting for the delivery guys to get rid of the two breather caps and replace them with an oil fill plug and a PCV connection so I started cleaning up my splash aprons. They are getting pretty close, but not quite there yet. Ran over a full tube of spot putty backing out into the sunshine :o kind of like stepping on a ketchup packet...
Took it out for a shakedown cruise yesterday after getting the alignment set up and the wheels/tires balanced - the weather was simply too nice to be working on the car indoors. What a hoot!! I pulled out onto K10 (4 lane divided, 70mph speed limit about 5 miles from home) and quickly accelerated up to 65/70 and dropped it into 5th. It did fine, but you can feel that it really likes pulling at 2500 to 3000 instead of 1950rpm :D I did a big loop, putting about 50 to 75 miles on it and it did great. I told my wife that I think the smile on my face is stuck there permanently.:LOL:
Got the new parts on late in the day, and earlier replaced the pan gasket to eliminate that from the source of the oil leaks, along with bagging the breathers. Tomorrow will be another cruise, and hopefully the oil leaks will be gone.
that is great roger. i know that smile:D
Roger, congratulations are in order, it’s great to see you’re hard work has finally reached this milestone.
I recognize that smile :D, about 10 years ago on a Harley forum we had a nickname for it, we called it a ‘Perma-smile’ :D.
Mike
I got off track a bit, asking questions about fiberglass and interior approach in other threads, and seem to have neglected the build page :o Unfortunately the winter months were not that productive for me, but I have done some things to push the never ending project a little more towards "finish".
Firstly, thank you Jack, Dave, RestoRod, Barb and Mike for the kind words.
Jack, it is registered as a 2010 ASV (assembled specialty vehicle, I think?) but there is nothing tied to emissions, just the tax base as 2010 vs antique :(. Also, as a ASV it cannot run period plates and does not get the reduced registration rates of an antique, and they now enforce "antique" to be restored vehicles with only safety upgrades like juice brakes - no modern driveline, etc even though I have friends with glass street rods that have been running antique plates for 25 years!
Mike, the Perma-smile has dimmed a bit over the winter, but still comes back when I crank the engine and listen to the rumble ;) I think it will be back the first time the seats are back in and I cruise down the gravel road to the blacktop! I put almost 900 miles on the beast before parking it for the winter weather, and then dove into trying to learn about interior work. As with other things, I tend to procrastinate and stutter step with things that I have not done before, and interior work is no exception:( but in the last few weeks I've made some progress. No material stretched yet, but most of the panels are essentially ready, minus a bit of sanding on the filler panels around the corners in back. I did find a local interior shop where the owner has no problem selling materials, and he has taken me back into the shop several times to show me how things work together, and to provide some tips on approach - a great guy with a '64 galaxy fastback that's going to be awesome when done.
BTW, the breather caps and PCV cured the oil drips :D It has been clean and dry for the whole winter and hopefully continues.
Like I mentioned to Mike52 in another post, the headliner panel that Duane (N&N) does for the '33/'34's is only a top panel that tucks into a finished front valance panel and does not wrap down beneath the back window and form the corners behind the doors like he does with the '32's (another reason I should have bought the Deuce!!:LOL:) When I picked up the headliner panel from him his right hand man, Scot, gave me a paper pattern of the piece he made to wrap the back, support the headliner panel, and fill to the door wind lace. That was a huge time saver, but even with that I delayed weeks cutting into my FRP panel for fear of it being wrong :o I first made a pattern from matt board, duct taped it in place and tried to get comfortable with how things fit, and finally cut the FRP, which is an ugly beige dense plastic used for shower walls, sold at Lowe's box store. I'll post a picture of the patterns and panel for those that might be looking for approach ideas vs mounting the panel solid and building up the compound, convex curves to form a solid base to glue to. My headliner "floats", supported around the rim, and the support panels are held with heavy duty industrial velcro that I also found at Lowe's (Thank you, Dave, for that pointer). There's also a picture of the curved area in the corners that gave me headaches for quite a while, too, the 1x1 brace that goes across at the top and middle, and the 90* corner at the bottom.
It must have warmed up in Kansas for you to get back in the shop - puleaaase send us some. 22* this morning here:CRY:.
Glad to see you are back and progressing instead of puttering like I'm doing.
And upholstery - looks like I have to make a few minor mods on mine - but not a big deal so am looking for your progress as I have little skills with that stuff
Here's a link to a thread where I got tons of help from Charlie Fisher, Don Dalton and Tracy @ Recovery Room on those filler panels in the corners.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47645
Of course, then Mike52 mentioned speaker pods, so I back tracked a bit and started modifying what I thought were finished panels **)
I bought a pair of 6" Kenwood speakers from Crutchfield - had it in mind to just buy speakers, but they had a great deal on a combo Receiver/Speaker package that gave me the two speakers for $10 over the Receiver cost so I sprung for the package :)
I cut a couple of rings from some 1" particle board (MDF would have been better), marked the panels and cut holes to fit in stages, leaving support top and bottom to inset the sides, but leave the rings protruding top and bottom. A test fit of the first ring, then glassed it in with a bit of cloth and resin. There's a shot of the back side, too, to show how the flat rings fit into the convex panels, which was another learning curve for an old dog!!
With the rings mounted I used some "Great Stuff" insulating foam (thank you Mike52 for that tip) to fill the bottom a bit, formed it smooth and finished it off with resin and bondo. One thing I learned, unlike the green floral foam, Great Stuff seems to absorb resin and shrinks about 30% unless it is sealed first with bondo. My first pod took a little more fill work because of that, but it worked OK. Also, the tape "form" proved to not be necessary if you lay the panel flat, and the foam dries much faster without that film covering it!! Once formed it was a matter of sanding for the desired conture, and getting them ready for foam and material. I mounted one speaker to see how they look, and I think that I can live with the look.
:LOL:We're about 41F here today after 24F at daybreak. Yeah, the barn's a bit chilly but if I fire the tornado heater to take the edge off it's OK. I'm still a bit leery of stretching & gluing material, but my friend at G&J Upholstery sold me a gallon of his bulk glue to use in an old siphon spray gun, so it's just a matter of diving in :LOL:**) We'll see how it works soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
With a receiver in hand I had to find a place to mount it :confused: First considered the flat panel behind the seats, but it would be too hard to get to the controls, and using only the remote did not appeal to me. I looked at overhead consoles from Valley (Lynn's pointer), but elected to make a simple pod from fiberglass and mount it to the solid headliner panel, up against the valance panel centered up front. For this one I took a piece of 16ga flat stock and cut a mounting hole for the front panel, then formed a box from green floral foam and glassed it in using resin and bondo to mount the metal plate to the box. I made a pair of hardwood mounts and bolted them to the headliner. The shot of the pod on the headliner is laying flat on a work surface, but you get the idea how it fits :o The hole in the foreground is for a dome light assembly I picked up from Juliano's - a sweet unit that has dual circuits so it lights with the doors, or you can push each side individually for a map light feature.
You might recall that I put a pair of speakers in the headrests of each seat, and I planned to run the speakers in the corners as "rear" with the seat speakers as "front", but when I went to figure out the wiring I learned that the pre-amp in a receiver is not stable at 2 ohms load, which is what you get with two pairs of speakers wired in parallel; and that it will not push 8 ohms that you get in series :CRY: Sooooo, the space that I had originally earmarked for the receiver, on the panel behind the seats, makes a good space for the amplifier that is required to drive six speakers.:LOL: Here's a shot of the back with everything in place, minus speakers in the corner pods. I plan to put a map pocket below the amp, since there is zero storage room! Going to get the carpeting put in by G&J before I upholster the back panels and kick panels, to be sure they don't need trimming, but have to fab door thresholds first.
Wow Roger, it's really coming along. Nice work on the speaker mount, headliner and other components for the sound system. I like the velcro idea so much I might have to try that myself, when the time comes.
Lookin great!! On the short strokes now.
What other audio components are you going to use? (Head unit, amps, etc)?
Don Jr.
Don,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Blue
I picked up a basic Kenwood 345U receiver that has front Ipod and USB ports, and it came with a pair of Kenwood G1620 2-way speakers. I already had a pair of Boss D35.2 3.5" 2-ways in each seat, so that pushed me to a Kenwood KAC 2404S 4-channel amp. Should be more than enough for an old guy! :LOL:
Looks good Roger! Should have some nice tunes for cruzin' too!!!
About the same weather we're having here, actually forecast to make it to the 60's today, dang near time for a picnic at the lake!!!! Hmmmm. maybe not just yet!!!!:eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:
Had to re-do the speaker pods at the bottom again - thought I had accounted for the space needed by the seat belt retractor, but those things are huge plastic pods sitting right in the corner! Next time they will be a couple of inches farther forward **) At least with fiberglass its not too hard to chop out a section, form up a mould with flashing or even duct tape, and glass it.
Using the approach that Old Coyote shared on his Anglia I made a storage pocket in the door panels. I have a pair of access panels on the inner door panel, and had decided to use the front space for a storage pocket. I discovered that the window mechanism cheats into the back corner, so I slanted the top opening to compensate for the window support. Took three blocks of floral foam, glued them together to form one block and then shaped them to size for the inner pocket. Once formed I put a few layers of glass cloth on them, forming a lip to secure the pocket to the back of the door panel. Since the door panel is luan plywood, only 3/16" thick, I used a ring of 7/16" plywood which will be glued/screwed to the back side of the door panel to form a base to mount the fiberglass pocket. Here's a few pictures of the process, plus the finished door panel, ready for material. The trim piece that sweeps from the front to back is walnut, and will be lacquered satin finish.
One of the last pieces for the cab is the door thresholds, and I have a bundle of wires on the driver's side to cover. I called Valley/Smooth Parts, but never got a return call so I kept figuring. After making a prototype from plywood & luan I ended up making them from walnut to match the door trim. The top is 1/2" thick, and I cut down a shoulder piece to 1/8" to roll over the door edge and fill the gap to the body line inside the door. I think it will be OK - may end up routing three or four grooves on top and putting some aluminum or SS wear strips on. Two pictures to show the assembly/fitting process, and two with them sanded a bit, ready to spray, rub out & wax. While I was working walnut I also decided to whip out a pair of trim rings, one for the shifter boot on the console, and another for the e-brake boot.
With the cab panels done, ready for carpeting to set the base height I jumped to the trunk. I went back to Lynn's (RumRumm) post and studied his method, and even e-mailed him to bounce around ideas. I wanted all panels to be removable, so they could be upholstered out of the car, and then secured, but a one-piece panel for the back of the trunk cannot fit into place. I finally came up with an approach, and made a pair of supports that attach to the gas tank flange, then made a lattice structure that attaches to the end supports. Two panels fit onto those, then it was a matter of making patterns for the sides, and cutting everything out of luan. Here's a few shots of the process.
And the panels in place. Each of the four panels are retained by velcro, and can be removed for any needed maintenance. The lattice and supports are held in place by wood screws, and also come out easily in case the gas tank ever needs to be removed.
Looking like a pro is doing the interior Roger. Great thread to follow for ideas on my own truck.
Thanks, Steve. I put off posting the details, but then thought "...if I'm trying to figure this stuff out......", so I posted. I'm sure it's old hat to many of the guys & gals here. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
I'm waiting to see how you do your carpet. I really don't like how mine was done. It looks and feels nice, but for what he (I !!) paid for the material, don't think it will survive more then a couple years of regular driving (now, 'regular driving' that's a laugh-with a snow storm predicted for April Fools Day:CRY:)
Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Because of the tranny hump and the need to bind the edges of that piece I am having the carpeting done at the shop that has been selling me products in Olathe, KS. I also have a bundle of wires coming up the middle between the seats, since I moved my window & seat switches to the little console, so we're bringing the carpet toward the middle, leaving a gap for wires, and then putting a 6" strip down the middle, tucked under the console back and the back wall panel, and held down in between by the e-brake trim ring. I think with a walking foot sewing machine I could probably do it, but decided to farm out the carpeting.
Has anyone tried the "MagDaddy fasteners"? I saw them at the Dallas Oreilly's Autorama. It looked like they had some neat ideas.
Roger - that is kinda what I'll have to do. Right now, my wires are fan spread up the center and I do want to cluster them better - that was my screw up, not the upholsterers. Then the fact I noted above about the material. Regardless, I'm interested in how you do the center strip - I have a tendency towards using an exotic wood with a good distributor (Curtis Lumber) only 4-5 miles up the road - but that's for another day/winter. I do have a wood riser for the shifter trim ring, but currently that is only red oak.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Now, you have me thinking ---- hmmmm:D
Roger, I'll let you use the Pfaff machine I recently acquired to sew your entire interior with only one catch, you've got to come to Florida to get it. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Keep up the excellent photo journal, it's inspiring.
Mike
Very nicely done ...
REGS
Thanks Regs. I got the car into Gary for carpeting and he did a great job, incorporating the access features I needed, and putting bound edges on everything that shows. Had to pull the seats again to do headliner and panels, so got some shots while it can be seen ;) For brake & clutch masters the carpet immediately in front of the driver's seat lifts up with the outer edge under the door threshold, the front edge tucked under the heel pad, and the back edge bound tucked beneath the seat; front & back velcroed down. Between the seats I wanted to be able to access wiring for seat heat and window switches that are on the console, so he left an open strip and then bound edges on a strip of carpet that tucks under the console in front, and my rear panel in back. It also has velcro strips to hold it down, as well as being retained by the e-brake escutcheon. Up front he pushed the carpet up the firewall, and bound all edges along the front, and around the steering column. I'm happy with the way it turned out! :D
Looks Great Roger!
Very nice Roger. I'll be interested in how it wears as I have a gut feel mine is not going to do well. regardless of how well the material was 'praised' by others
Looks good, Roger!
Nice carpet set up. He did a great job getting around all the extra stuff on the floor and firewall!
Nice look I really like the wood work incorporated into the flooring .
Thanks for the nice comments. The walnut approach came from a friend looking at the car one evening, and me worrying about how to do thresholds in metal, seeing that they really needed to roll over the curved edge. He said, "Will you incorporate any wood into the interior?", and that planted the seed. I'm having to rework the front ends a bit - door panels are binding with them about the first inch... :mad:**)Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Realy like the wood not many guys use it???? I had red oak running boards on my 38 chevy and my 51 Chevy P/U.
DANG !!!!!!!!...nice score Roger...wooow !!!!!