Roger I think you do this in your sleep, way to easy, I`d have a mess for sure.:D
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Roger I think you do this in your sleep, way to easy, I`d have a mess for sure.:D
Nice work Roger, almost warm and dry enough to get back to my truck!
So the prep for paint continues, and seems to be never ending :(:(;) I keep finding reasons to re-do things, which is a hint that I'm not overly sure of myself in this arena. The body looks a lot different with the gel coat scuffed:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps3ec1f399.jpg
After lots of time thinking about it I decided that the only way I could get the firewall painted right was to pull the engine & tranny:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psb9be2943.jpg
I quickly found that there was no way to get the chains hooked up front without trashing the intake/throttle body, and I remembered that the first time I put the engine in the top was bare. After a bit of head scratching I bolted a couple of pieces of C channel to the block and tacked on a top connector. That got the front of the puller above everything - :D:D
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...pse0cf23f5.jpg
And the engine came out without too much cussin' and gruntin' :LOL:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psa1b4faa2.jpg
Another reason for pulling it was that I really wanted to upgrade my shifter to a Steeda short throw unit. This thing is spring loaded to the center 3 & 4 slot much tighter than the OEM Tremec, and should really help on that critical 2-3 shift, which I've missed a few times :o:(: That rev limiter is a life saver!!:LOL::LOL:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps82fa8679.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psd6a6d47f.jpg
Last time I painted in the barn I made a crude roll down visqueen wall that worked, but not well. So today I decided to attack the temporary wall to segregate the paint booth area from the shop proper. I realized that this time around I really have to have the ability to move things in & out of the booth since I'll be pulling the doors & trunk lid from the body. The answer was to make the wall in hinged pieces, three to a side across the 30' span; and to make it such that it can be used again later. Here's four of the six panels in place:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps149e06f3.jpg
And here the two middle panels have been added with a door panel for access during prep time:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps9abccf7b.jpg
And it actually folds up as planned!! Screen door is on & spring loaded!
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psd6dfa389.jpg
Tomorrow after church I plan to break out the visqueen and cover the individual panels and the door. The folding wall is mid-way between the roof trusses, and my old roll down wall will now be used as the "ceiling" between a truss and the new wall. Once the fans are sucking I think this wall will tend to get a bit wobbly as it's only connected on the outer ends, and C-clamped together in the middle. I think I'll add a pair of 2x4 supports hinged to the folding wall top, projecting to the inboard truss to counter any suction force.
Speaking of fans, I have a 24" gable mounted fan which I used when painting the frame & undercarriage pieces. I now have a furnace blower that I plan to wire in with two speeds, ducted low to pull fumes down vs up. Hoping that it flows enough to not use the gable fan, but we'll see....
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps044d557d.jpg
Getting closer!! Before long I'll run out of excuses and have to buy primer & paint and see how big a mess I can make!! Thanks for looking!
Should work out ok Roger!!!! Time to get the hi-build on their now and start blocking, the really "glorious" part of Hot Rod building!!!!!!!
Great work! That's a nice wall and great idea to have it fold up!
LARS is gettin closer Roger .
Better get to blockin.
Yeah, I know Don. :o:o I've had a bunch of stuff get in the way, but I'm back on it pretty hard again now. I hadn't intended to pull the engine & tranny, but it's the only right way to do it. I've had to blow apart a lot more than I expected to when I started....:HMMM::( I keep finding little things that I can improve, with "...just a little bit of work..." ;) Hoping it's worth all the efforts...Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
Roger - you haven't even begun sanding yet:LOL::LOL:. If it's shiny, it shouldn't be if you want paint to stick to the gel coat/'glass. Wet sanding with 220 to 400, epoxy primer (you'll like SPI as it's sandable) and sand on and on from there. ENJOY !!!!!
(sorry if my sadistic streak is showing today:whacked:)
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Yep, one thing always leads to a thousand more!!!! I just wanted to replace the radiator on my '37 and now look at it!!!:eek::eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Yeah, that first picture is from several days back. The driver's side is pretty much ready for primer, as is most of the top and all of the back end. Still need to break the surface on the gel coat on the firewall and the passenger door & quarter. It's getting there - just took a break to get the "booth" space closer to done. Also have to construct a couple of "stands" to hang doors, and something for the trunk lid, too - thinking a rack to hang from the hinge pins... I know I've got a bit of fill work to do along door, hood & trunk edges for smooth lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Just for the record.. I ain't saying nothin'!!! :eek::eek::eek::rolleyes::LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Yep, you still need that @#$% radiator capQuote:
Originally Posted by randyr
http://www.freesmileys.org/emoticons...artoon-022.gif
I wouldn't hang them - I would do flat on horses - runs seldom happen when flat I made up frames to paint parts on. Can't find one of the door arrangement, but this will give you an idea of some of mine:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Attachment 57859
Only 2x and other odd size wood plus some 1" pvc and a few fittings
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I thought that the "rule" was to have the panels in the orientation they sit on the car, like you've shown your fenders? That is, door panels near vertical as opposed to laying flat. Not sure where that came from, but pretty sure I'm not making it up. I'd be interested in comments.
My last venture on my coupe was a leaky valve cover, 3 months later a whole new motor/trans, it got out hand quick, now my steering box is worn out....Oh OH....
Roger, I've read that somewhere, too, especially if you're using any kind of metallic paint and you want to paint the parts disassembled from the car. It probably wouldn't make that much difference if using a solid color paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I saw that on American hotrod when Charlie was still painting for Boyd...Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Sounds like a subject for 'Mythbusters' to me.
Now - think about that - regardless of paint type. The hood, roof, trunk lid are horizontal or mostly so. Whatever color it's painted, all parts need to match. If the paint is applied correctly, panel orientation should NOT make a bit of difference or you would see it in the sun. Yeah, Charlie Hutton is a master car painter but to me there are personal "superstitions" if you will, such as no green cars and numbered 13 or no peanuts sold or that special' pair of underwear drawers you wore when you won your first prize, etc.
As far as painting my fenders - or any other part my photo shows, orientation was ease of paint application - no other reason (my '31, it has pearl in the bc)
That was only meant for metalic paints....and or pearls.
In my 45 + years of painting experiance, I've done it both ways, and I'll tell ya this -
Paint parts as they hang on the car !!!!!!!!
Solid or metallic/pearl coat.
Think about this- Ya shoot the body, then ya shoot the door laying flat., go to assemble and the flow on the door will not match the body side.
You'll have urethane wave in the body more so than the door.
But what do I know, I've probably painted more cars than 50 of ya put together !!!
Hang the parts Roger
:) It may have been talking to Don where I got the advice to put the doors on a rack hanging vertical, but it may also have been the guy at my local paint store, who's also been very helpful "educating" me. My plan has been to build a couple of rolling racks for the doors, and another for the trunk, and I can see the logic of the flow of the paint. I also see that it might be easier to shoot them laying flat, but I'll stick with the plan for this one. ;) Can't hurt, other than being a bit more susceptible to sags & runs.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
I hope you didn't hurt your arm!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
I've kept plugging away on getting the spray space in better shape for shooting the body. Previously I had four sheets of visqueen clear plastic overlapped in a curtain that was minimally OK to segregate the front of the barn for painting. With the "folding wall" I still needed to close in the roof, spanning from the structural truss that I had covered with plastic earlier. My initial thought was to just use the curtain, but the more I looked at it the less I liked that idea.
As I looked at the span it was apparent that a panel 30' long was not going to work. :LOL: But then looking at the need to open the wall partially to move things into and out of the spray area led me to three panels, nominal 10' each, and that's what I did. Each of the roof panels is hinged at the truss and can be raised about two feet to allow the wall to fold into the outer wall. The center panel raised will allow the two center wall sections to fold, giving me a 10'wide access way back & forth. I still need to secure some "fillers" at the wall ends against the barn siding to block air flow, and to get the pulleys in place to raise each of the three shed roof panels, but it's nearly there!!
View from inside the booth:
Attachment 57894
View from the shop side, looking to the booth:
Attachment 57895
View from inside, showing the truss closed off from the rest of the barn:
Attachment 57896
Other than sealing some gaps I need to expend my 220V circuit up to the booth area to power the furnace blower, and mount the blower to a filler panel that fits beneath the rolling doors. I also have three or four florescent fixtures that I may hang on the walls for more light. Then it's clean, clean, clean using the pressure washer to blow away cobwebs and dust bunnies; do some final rough up sanding on the passenger side, then get ready to shoot a couple of coats of primer.
May get this thing done despite myself:p:LOL::LOL:
You're getting pretty fancy there, Roger!!!! Looks good, should work out quite well!
Nice Roger! Very NICE! Only thing I would say is get plenty of lighting!!!
Nice, indeed! I wish I had a space like that in which to work.
44 days til the BBQ Roger. :HMMM:
I love the way that thing looks!
:LOL:I knew I'd get a response like that from you, Don. Yeah, I've allowed myself to get diverted, but now it's nearly time to shoot some primer and do a little minor fill work.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
Keep on plugging Roger! When your done, we'll bring our paint work to you!;):D
Stovens right! I'll sign-up to paint mine there!!
:LOL::LOL::LOL: Nah, drop on down to the Duncan, OK area. Don's got a REAL booth, plus he knows what he's doing!!;):LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
But that takes all the fun out of it!**):HMMM::eek::whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Been busy, but not moving as fast as I'd like. Got the spray space buttoned up and power washed.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psf92f5666.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps5bb2dc9c.jpg
I decided to see how it does using the gable fan that's already installed for the priming step, and if I need the furnace blower I can get it hooked up pretty quick using my long 220V extension for the welder. When I closed everything up I found that I was sucking huge quantities of air in the soffits so I buttoned them up, too:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psd5be97a2.jpg
Got the car in and have the initial blocking nearly done, mainly giving some tooth for the primer to bite:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...pscc0f05e4.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psfe8fcaaf.jpg
This morning I banged together a couple of sawhorses (can't believe I didn't have a single sawhorse!!) to hold the splash aprons:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psc860bf83.jpg
Then whipped up a stand for the grill surround:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps5330c8c6.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psa09a150b.jpg
After a quick sandwich I need to figure out a support for the hood, and then head into town to pick up my primer and paint. Still have a few spots that have a bit too much shine, and then it's a final wash and getting things masked, covered, and ready for a final cleanup and some primer!!
WooHoo! Getting close now! I'll be curious if you find when you're painting the lower sides of the body & doors, if it isn't a bit dark.
It was for me when I did mine. All my lighting was overhead. Curious if you find it the same as your setup looks similar to what I did.
I do have a portable light bar, visible in the background of the first picture in post 274 above, which has two quartz halogen bulbs. I plan to have it in the back, bouncing off the floor. Don't know that it will do the trick, but it cannot hurt. I did get a stand banged together for the hood, but too late to get into town before they close today so it will be tomorrow mornings trip.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
From the front:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps15854764.jpg
From the rear:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps5ac049ba.jpg
The stand:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...psffde5777.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...ps7f4f81ee.jpg
Was the stand built from left over lumber from the railng project?
My "theory" on the light "bouncing" is this (from my experience only) right alongside the car the overspray lands on the floor so as your working from the top down, the floors finish becomes flat and you end up with little to no lighting.
I don't want to be a pest about this, I'm just curious if experience the same thing. SO you can tell me flip off if you want to! :LOL:
:LOL:Yep, recycled deck railings that got replaced with metal. Didn't see the need to cut up new lumber for temporary stands, as expensive as a 2x4 is these days:(.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I appreciate the input, and I expect you're right about the bounce. My floor still has black over spray from the chassis & under side components. I had thought about a couple of florescent fixtures mounted vertical on the sides, but had not gone there yet. I'll see how it does spraying primer, and if needed I can pretty easily hang some lights and run extension cords temporarily.
Vertical mounted lights do a ton of good when it comes to seeing down the sides when you're painting, that'd get my vote for a most excellent plan!!!!!
Ya paintin yet Roger?
The BBQ is gettin closer !!!!!!!!!!!!!
