When you said "make one" I thought you meant from scratch. A mold would be easy... if you can find someone who will loan theirs out.
Maybe you can offer them a copy. That might get 'em interested. :-)
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When you said "make one" I thought you meant from scratch. A mold would be easy... if you can find someone who will loan theirs out.
Maybe you can offer them a copy. That might get 'em interested. :-)
With a few good pics, think I could make a plug out of wood, plastic or something, then make a mold out of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
With all the old farm trucks in your neck of the woods you might be able to find an genuine Ford Super Duty scoop like was shown earlier. Hey, it's a good excuse for you to put a real Ford part on your Chebby mon......
Yup, think I know where a couple of those old Ford trucks just might be, too!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Brought the hood inside today and took all the trim pieces off of it and hit it with the DA a bit, couple dents, a few dings, but no rust other then a bit of surface rust!!! I like parts to check out this good, saves a lot of work!!!!
Might have something to do with the weight on the front axle. I too have seen some really extreme caster angles on lightweight diggers.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Robinson
Here is another angle. Now if you just had someone who could give you a half dozen measurements.... :-)
BTW... Summit carries many Cal Custom parts. Maybe you could inquire about the possibility of their future plans... and if they include this scoop?
Its all about what your using the car for, the 20 degree users are mostly race cars and its done for stability but they quite often get the death wobble when coming out of the burnout.
On a street car i like 7 degrees, gives good straightline stability and the steering won't be to heavy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Robinson
Dave,If I remember correctly you can use sections of a u bend 2 1/4 exhaust pipe to fill the hood holes. Looking good so far. Hank
Thats what i used on my mates hood a few months ago, works great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by halftanked
Dave, sort of an apples N' oranges comparison but I was told by Art Morrison to go around 7° caster unless you plan to run 150+ at the track, then set it at 10° for top end stability. We were talking strut front end but wouldn't caster be caster no matter what the spindle mounts to? Since mine has yet to make it out of the shop I can only offer this as second hand info. :whacked:
that 57 is going to be a cool deal when you get it done. :D GO CHEVY. :D
Yeah, caster is caster, Pro... Think I'll start out at the 5-7 degree area and make some wedge plates if it should need more... With the big motor in the Comet, ran 150's all summer long with 6 degrees...
Roadster and Halftanked... Done that a few times myself on customer cars... Trying to come up with something a bit different for this car, but something that still would have the look of being done in the mid 60's.. I've given some thought to opening them up to 3" and using them for intakes for an air box for the carb(s)?????
[QUOTE=HOTRODPAINT;407586]Here is another angle. Now if you just had someone who could give you a half dozen measurements.... :-)
QUOTE]
I've been playing with the old drafting scale and some pictures of Tri-five's with the Cal Custom scoop and some measurements off my stock hood, should get it figured out easy enough, nothing but a bit of math, right????:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Jay, I was sanding a bit on the hood today...Looks like it's had a repaint on the hood at one time, some black primer underneath it;.....Man, the paint and primer is like sanding a piece of granite!!!! 80 grit cuts it for awhile then quit, tried some 220, same thing!!! Seem to have to switch back and forth on grits to get the paint and primer off!!! Any idea what this would be?
They were obviously done in recent times. PPG makes a black primer. I think it's DP40... but I can't swear to it.
I thought some about colors. In the '60s race cars and rods tended to use the basic colors... red-yellow-blue-black and white.
On the other hand, using a '50s color might be typical of a '50s bodied car. The pale blue on the '57s was nice. The aqua was also highly popular on them. That was the time that metallics were being intrduced, like the Aztec Copper on the '57... but metallics are more common today than solids.
Whatever you use... I would try to go for something that would look nostalgic... and not be a color used a lot today.
If you decide to use a car name... maybe one of those colors would be a natural. :-) Song titles often make great names... and you could pick one form that time to give it more personality. Now lets see... Motown was big then... the British invasion was just starting... but we all were still singing '50s songs. Lotsa choices. {:-)
Dave,
57's had a model that was black and white.It was the only one built that was fuel injected.It was known as "The Black Widow".Yeah,not a gasser per say,but was one of the factory models that had a rep.
I think it was older, Jay.. I've used and sanded DP, this stuff is way harder to sand... Also a repair on the RF fender with the same black primer, and lead underneath it! Anyway, nothing I remember using.
When you look back at the old pictures, all the gassers and alterds had a name and as you mentioned, a lot of them related to music....hmmmmm. I keep thinking of a two tone, but then a lot of the pics I've looked at most of the cars from the era were a solid color. Seen pics of a few done in one of my favorites, Anniversary Gold.... Possible to come up with a color and a name that fit the era and the car?????