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Thanks for asking, It's made from 90 degree mandrel bends some cut in half to make 45's Ryan then tig welded and then the welds smoothed out and polished.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
No intercooler though mate as this is a period build.
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I hear that's unusual for you Whip :LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
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Steve,
I was about to ask if you have a mandrel bender to do that pipe, I should have known better.;) You are the King of Fab. Great weld, grind and polish job.:):)
Jack.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack F
I do have a bender Jack but on this sort of stuff using pre bent bends is easier.
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I've always heard that trying to bend stainless with that short of a radius doesn't work well at all unless you have a high dollar bender. I understand what you mean about no intercooler on the intake. I've seen pics of them in old willys gassers before though. I just don't know how old the pics actually are. Late 60's and 70's I'm guessing. Anyhow, other than time, making a spacer should be cake for you. :)
A period build and you're using that distributor?Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Period looking from the outside, Engine isn't as its a 1970Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
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Then you could intercool it. Haha :)Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Managed to sort my dizzy to blower clearance problem, made up a 3/4" spacer plate from a chunk of 3/4" aluminium plate. Allan is kindly milling the hole in it for me :thanks: Al
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...LYS/014-20.jpg
Another job i had to do was sort out the blower drive, The blower I have was for a SBC so some bits are not gonna work with the Cadillac, first to get modified was the crank blower hub, the vee belt drive was on the front of the hub between it and the blower pulley, this was too far forward for my needs so the vee pulley was bored out on the lathe to bolt to the rear of the crank hub, then the hub was drilled from the rear to take the pulley bolts, this places the vee pulley close to the block.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...565E705DEB.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...56659AC56A.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...566AD42465.jpg
Moving on to the top pulley clearance for the blower belt to the water pump was a problem, looked at this several times without coming up with a easy fix, The solution was to go with an Electric water pump, this would also enable me to lose the pump completely and shed a few pounds as well :D
I sell the Davies Craig electric water pumps so seemed obvious to use this setup as I know they work and are reliable, They come with a digital control box that lets you tailor the pumps workings to your own requirements, It can also be set to run after the engine is switched off to avoid heatsoak.
Normally the pump would be left in place but the impellor removed so the pump ends up as just a transfer station for the water, the thermostat is removed and replaced by a sender that is hooked to the digital controller.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...56781FD4A4.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...567C43256A.jpg
Obviously removing the pump meant some pipework had to be made up, firstly flanges were cut from 1/4" stainless plate.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...566F0F02B5.jpg
Next the feed pipe from the pump was made from some 1.5" stainless bends and welded into the left flange.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...56737BFD2B.jpg
Heres the completed pipework, The blue -10 fitting is the thermostat bypass and is piped back to enter the system before the pump, It enters the bottom hose via this adaptor. Clearance on the blower belt is tight buts its just enough :D
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...568FD10873.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...56946D586E.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...56812DCA3C.jpg
Next job is to sort out the short blower snout & top pulley.
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That should work well, Steve! Curious what the flow rate might be on the water pump, not familiar with them at all!
Hi Dave, the flow rate is 1822 gal (US)/hr, They are Australian but very popular with the race guys in england, ive used them quite a few times over the years and they have a good reputation for reliability.
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Awesome work guy!!! That water pump looks like a turbo with an electric motor on the back! Haha Those would work great on water pumps for water to air intercoolers I bet. Nice machine work for the lower pulley too.
Managed to get another pesky job off the list :D
My mate Allan milled my spacer plate for me which saved a bundle of time, cheers Allan.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...A0ED17CC3A.jpg
Once I had the spacer plate it enabled me to setup the blower drive, The bottom pulley had already been sorted which just left the top puley, a straight edge was put on the bottom pulley and I found that the top pulley was 2.250" away from the existing snout flange, the solution was to turn up a 2.250" aluminium hub spacer on the lathe, While i was there I drilled and tapped a centre hole to accept an old 1/2" UNF 12 point ARP bolt to make turning it over easier.
I then drilled and tapped 6 holes 3/8" UNC as I intended to bolt the hub to the flange and then bolt the pulley to the hub, changed my mind in the end and finally used 6 x 3/8" x 3.5" UNC bolts through the complete assembly. The hub is a press fit into the pulley, Pics explain it better than I can write :whistle:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...A0FB0B8E82.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...A1015F0E06.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...A107463B8B.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...A10DF6A6CF.jpg
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http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...A11ABB0E87.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...A0F458FFCC.jpg
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Looks like plenty of clearance for the cap and wires now
Unusual that he's speechless,Steve?? Hmmmmm...that's true...:LOL::LOL:;)Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32