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corvair box's need to be reversed because they work backwards from what is required. so if you turned the wheel left, the car would go right.. Corvair box's can go for as little as $50-100 if there good and tight, but you still need to reverse a stock box.. aftermarkets are available reversed, and generally in the $400 range. Wintec Fabrication sells rebuilt reversed originals for $295 IIRC.. they also sell a pretty trick raised mount that bolts onto boxed chassis
I put the v6 in place and it fits much better. I can get a 2x4 in between the radiator and water pump now. I should have enough room for a nice electric fan now. got my motor mounts almost done. still need to drill the holes for the rubber mounts. now I am working on getting the motor mounts made for the frame. the motor oil pan is sitting about 8'' off the ground, but it is sitting on a cart and I dont know how much the suspension is going to droop when the motor and trans is in there. I can decide if I want the engine about 2'' lower of what. here are some bad pics of my progress. I will try and get better pics. I dont know if anyone can see or not, but if you can let me know what you think of my welds. I am only 17 and have never taken a class for any fab skills. I dont think the welds will break.
here is another of the v6 sitting there
That V6 fits much better and looks good. As for the welds, clean up the area you are going to weld with a disc first and make both parts shiny. Welds do not penetrate rust well, and the weld will be neater too.
Don
I havent figured out the miller 150 wire feed yet. I know on an arc welder my welds always look the same, but with the mig the welds change about like the weather in Oregon.
got my frame mounts plasma cut out. I need to clean them up and cut some other peices to complete the mounts, then need to weld the together. I also ordered a pair of old style 3'' donut type motor mounts from speedway. Those should be in tues or Wednesday. where the motor sits now.
the oil pan is 8'' off the ground at it lowest point. the bottom of my motor mounts are about 3.5'' above the top of the frame. as far as where the trans is going to sit... I looked at the 4l60e which I wont use unless I find a cheap computer set up. it is 30'' long. the tail shaft is going to sit just under the floor and the top of the bell housing is going to sit level with the bottom of the dash. there is only going to be about 5-6'' of space on each side of the trans. bell housing at the fire wall.
WHERE AM I GOING TO FIT 2 PEDALS, A STEERING COLUMN, AND MY 2 SIZE 12 SHOES???
I am now about to enter the point of cutting the firewall and floor to fit the trans. and drive line. the floor is a aluminum sheet that has been glassed in there, but is coming apart on the drivers side. I found a glass body maker and he said that he would like to take the floor out and put in a all fiberglass floor for $200. I think sense now that I know there is going to be full tunnel for trans and drive line that price is going to go up a lot. I would like to be able to work with it my self and I dont wont to work with fiberglass, but I can work with metal, so I might keep the floor and try and glass it in again. I need to find some good info on working with fiber glass sense I have never touched it before and figure out how to get it done. what is the best way to cut fiber glass? I need to cut the firewall out a little.
Fiberglass is one of the most forgiving, easiest to work materials out there. Once you do a little of it you will think you have been doing it for years. My advice is to use Polyester resin as opposed to Epoxy resin. Epoxy is stronger and bites in better, but for what we are doing with our rods Polyester is fine, and a lot cheaper. Use something like 5/8 or 3/4 plywood that is designed for things like roofs on homes, it uses waterproof glue. Some people use marine grade plywood, and that is good, but for most purposes more expensive and harder to find. I think the stuff I buy is called CDX or something like that.
Buy lots of throwaway brushes to dab the resin onto the mat, and work with mat as opposed to glass cloth, it conforms to curves and edges better and soaks up the resin more completely. Buy your supplies at a marine repair store if possible, it is much cheaper than the prepackaged stuff at the so called marine discount stores. You want to buy your stuff where they pull the mat off of rolls and measure it out, and where they sell resin by the gallon or in bulk.
Don't be afraid of fiberglassing, except for the itch! :eek: If you wear long sleeves and vinyl gloves while grinding (and a mask) you will be fine. The guys on here taught me to use pantyhose to rub your skin to remove any slivers that get into your pores and it worked great, (I think that was Uncle Bobs suggestion, and I DON'T want to know how he learned THAT one! :eek:)
Don
I will have to call around to some places and see what I can find for materials.
You might check out this place, looks like they have everything from do it yourself DVD's to all the supplies.
http://www.tapplastics.com/index.php...15361222704875
Don
so I looked through there web sit a little and have a lot of different fabrics, resins to choose from. what materials would you recomend Itoldyouso? they even have to locations that are about 20-30 miles from me too.
If they are that close, go see them directly! Talk with them and I'll bet they give you a lot of pointers and tips on how to use their products! My point oh 2:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jawman
I called the one place the guy was a reel jack ass, then I called the other place and the guy was somewhat informational for about $50 being the most I can get everything to glass the floor back together where it is coming apart. finishing the firewall should be cheap too. scene there is only going to be about a 5-9'' area to do after I cut it for the trans to fit.
Like I suggested, buy Polyester resin. Epoxy does have some advantages, but the majority of new boats being sold are made with Polyester. If they sell a house brand, buy it, especially in bulk (some places fill your container out of a 55 gallon drum) There are two kinds of resin......laminating resin and finishing resin. Finishing resin has wax the comes to the surface so it cures dry. Laminating resin stays sticky forever. Just buy finishing resin and it is fine as long as you lay up all your layers in one sitting.
Mat is what you want, not cloth. I think it is called 1.5 oz, but it has been a while, so ask them what they would use for "tabbing" and "laminating" a wood floor into a glass body.
Buy lots of vinyl gloves (Harbor Freight sells a box of 100 cheap and they are fine for glassing and painting)
Buy a box of throwaway paint brushes, about 1 to 1.5 inches wide. You will use a ton of them and toss them after each layer you put in. Get LOTS of stir sticks.
Buy a 5 gallon can of wash (cheap) laquer thinner to clean up with. Acetone is also ok. Get lots of plastic tubs to mix the resin in, and don't mix it too hot or too cold.
Buy one of those white paper hooded suits that sell for about $ 10. It will keep you from itching so much when you are grinding. (You need to grind the fiberglass to get tooth, after wiping with laquer thinner to get the wax off....resin has wax to let it cure)
Use a good pair of shears to cut strips of glass. You want narrow ones, and progressively wider ones so you can lay up strips that get wider and grab into a larger section of the floor on each layer.
Ask the glass shop for any DVD's they might have on laminating.
Don
Here, a picture is worth a thousand words. Go to post 1125 on this thread and for the next several pages fiberglassing basics are discussed.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...=23618&page=75
Don
I have an aluminum floor. I noticed some people say the aluminum does not bond very well. should I take it out and put in a wood floor?
have been getting a little done. went to a swap meet last week end and picked up some stock Harley Davidson feet rests and a pan hard bar for some thing. the feet rest should work for a good step to get into the T sense the body is about a 1' off the ground and the pan hard bar will get shortened to fit on the back of the T. I got my old school 3'' donut rubber mounts from speed way the other day, but I can figure out how they mount. I know the top plate that comes from the engine mounts on top of the big donut on the 7/16'' part of the bolt, but cant figure out if the lower plate that comes from the frame mounts on top of the big washer or under it. also dont know what size to drill the hole. if anyone could clear that up and give me some pictures of how they mount that would keep progress going. thanks