Yeah, that sounds about right...........:LOL:
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Tim allen grunts
http://youtu.be/BAhVmjptZMI
Wish there is an easy way to embed video, nothing seems to work?
Here is a great compilation of all of Tim's accidents on tool time(about 7 minutes worth) It had me in stitches, he did slapstick well!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ9Xk0Lln5Y&NR=1
Okay I understand about the side intrusion bar for safety. What if you lowered the pipe bar down to almost floor level and used the curvature of it as the finishing sill/or rocker panel as you guys call them,then with a deeper door have a side intrusion bar across the middle of it at bumper height. With good hinges and anti burst proof bear-claw catch it would still give you the safety you require. I'm just thinking out loud here as even I laughed at your ugly comment.:LOL:
Yeah I thought of that. If I had a tube bender there might be some different things I'd do. But I'm still thinking it over. The door does have an 1 5/8 DOM bar in the center, with upper and lower frame of door made from 1 1/2 .120 wall box. I'm not even sure the door on pass side period is going to make it that easy for me to get in. Got to put the column and shifter back in and try it out. It's gonna really piss me off if I went to that trouble and it ends up being useless to me. My Daughter on the other hand, well thats a different story...................... Well nothing is ever set in stone......................
Your nickname on the tailgate will make the ladies giggle, but it'll be a good confidence check.
If you dropped the bed so that the upper rolled side bead was visually at about the top of the tire, then it would look better, and the proportions of the planned skirt to the bedside height would work better.
To get the door to work/look better the only thing I can think of is to drop the skin down with a light supporting framework behind it. That way you can leave the inner member (nothing to do with the tailgate) at bumper height and still have a more pleasing visual when the door is closed.
I think if you didn't want to mess with the bed height, then you could change the look of the back of the cab with a couple of small raised roll bars behind each seat. Just a thought, but I think it would breakup the line of the tail gate and the back of the cab. Either way lowering the bed, or raising the cab a little will set it off better. I also like Bob's idea of extending the skin on the door, to cover the break in the side. On my 48 truck, they did something very similar, where the door goes all the way down the side on the outside, but is just a thin double wall going past the inner frame for the last few inches.
It is going to get a roll bar, although a single loop inside the bed against ft panel. I didn't want to keep the headrests originally but they have kinda grown on me. It won't be long and I'll start shooting some primer, finished the welds on bed yesterday. A little to go on bed, rear sill and ft stake pockets. Anyway once it's got some primer on it, I'm sure I will have a better Idea of what it will look like. Now it's just squint so it all looks the same.
Yeah Bob, I hadn't even thought of it in that particular way.................. Might be reason enough to toss it. :LOL: As to the bed, again I'm torn. I wanted a somewhat functional bed. At present height I still loose 3" of bed height. Although I have considered redesigning the rear suspension so that I need less kick up.
Well it's been a few weeks since the last update, so here goes. Alot of little bits and so forth, not much pic worthy. But we slung a little body filler and some paint.
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Hopefully the last time the body meets the frame.
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Almost forgot this one. I made some rear protection for fuel tank and bat. I sleved some 3" holes for aux brake/turn lites. I have some A style lights to go on sides of bed but wanted some extra lites to get the attention of the cell phone a-holes. Yeah I have been hit in the rear before, 6 or 7 times, twice turning and the rest at a dead stop. I am gonna use some of those kinda bee hive style clearence lites. Single filiment. If I can mount like I think I can they should look suspended and floating in the holes. Also welded some bumber brackets on. Will make a knerf style bumber that circles the lights.
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The bed skirts will fill the area between the lites and the bottom of the bed.
Progress looks great! Extra brake lights always a good idea!
Needed to get firewall in place before cab can be bolted in place, have to raise front of cab to get toe board under ft of main floor. So I thought I'd take the opportunity to place the tank on and some goodies for a peek. The gauges are just a couple of junk gauges and are just sitting in holes. If it doesn't show they are dimpled died, so they are recessed. Not sure if I want checker board around gauges, maybe solid color in oval 1/4" or so from the edge of dimple, maybe............????? Anyway I needed a little inspiration so I thought I'd take a couple of shots for show and tell. I went with 1" checkers, like the look of larger ones, but with the tank/firewall flange it probably would look like pooky. I saw a 28/29 with 1", and as flange is just under an inch you get a nice pattern no mater what angle you look at it. The flange doesn't pop out at you, well not that much. I have a color scheme in mind, the grill shell will be red as most of the cowl flowing into some scallops down the sides of the cab.
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Now if you noticed that the white on the tank is slightly yellowed............. Well don't mention it. If I like the look will have to repaint upper portion. Don't know what happened, maybe it was too hot, but the clear yellowed on me. I didn't really notice it until it was next to the lower portion. I thought it was just lighting or my eyes. To say I was perturbed would be an understatement. It was a pain to mask, and I'll have to start all over, I'd never get the black masked off properly.
Also one of the little things was to finish off the steering box. You can see I welded a short collar to the top plate so it would hold a lip seal. The original fill plug said heavy gear oil, so I greased all bearing and gears when I put it together and pumped it maybe 1/4 full of grease and the rest with 85/140 gear oil. I drilled and tapped a 1/4 npt fill at what is now the top of the box.
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I like that alot man and I will have to take back my comment on the door as with panel fit and paint it does look better. I like the firewall also and the red,keep at it sir.