1946 Ford Coupe-

Haven't even got it home yet- not even sure what's been done but already planning changes- I do know it has a GM V-8/Monza bellhousing/Ford 9" rear-
parallel leaf springs- a Chassic Engineering kit- driven 22,000 miles with these changes that were done 18 years ago- one repaint- lots of scars and patina- stainless good- chrome poor- converted to 12 volts- front end rebuilt- dual exhaust-

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Kool Koop,,it looks and sounds like all it needs is to get a bit closer to the ground...and drive the wheels off it.:cool::D

Great looking coupe Bubba, what are the plans for the build?

Right now the plan is to get get it home- picking it up March 18th- will check it out then- may just play this Summer while driving it- clean it up- I have done a 1939 Ford in my past- it was off the road more than on in my 24 years of ownership- I have more money now/ more time as well and also hope to plan the downtimes better- we may leave the exterior alone with just touch ups for now- but the interior needs attention- only time will tell where we're heading-

The exterior looks period perfect to me. The interior - well......a little TLC and a trip to the upholsterers along with some paint will fix that. But, I wouldn't do much now except to do the seats with a new Indian/Mexican blanket.

I would, twere mine, drive it this summer (too late this year to start major changes) with a note book and write down a "plan of attack" for next fall and winter

I agree..............mostly. I've been a fan of these immediate post war Fords for a long time though I've never owned one. The idea of driving and improving is a great way to enjoy a car from both the mechanical and social aspects.

Depending on your budget, skills and ideas an altitude adjustment and interior improvement are both projects that can be done in reasonably short periods of time while not terminally disabling the car. The biggest challenge in putting in a dropped axle and reverse eye spring is driving out the perch pins. Need a 40 ton press (and maybe some heat) if it's not been done since new. If you want to brave it, interior kits are available for you to install. LeBaron-Bonney makes a very fine stock replacement kit, and they now own EZ-Boy so can supply a hot rod style package as well. Some underhood detailing and that sbc will look sweeter too. Neat car.....

Very cool car! If it were mine, I would drive the wheels off and do weekend projects on it.
Andy

Car looks great!

I agree, if it runs and drives and is reliable why not drive it as is with a few improvements along the way that keeps her on the road. Will be watching as I am building my 46 Tudor sedan too. Best of luck with her.
Don Jr.:)

Brought it home today- drove 250 trouble free miles in 3 1/2 hours- bias plies made for interesting drive until I got used to it- pretty soon I was crusing along at 70 + mph just like everyone else- I'll try to post some trip home photos tomorrow-
I did sneak a peek under the mats and the floor seems solid- I was told it was a rust free car and it seems to be for the most part- I bought it in WI but the car is from IA- interior looks worse than it smells- just a musty old car smell- Manual steering and manual drum brakes a lot different than modern era cars but both got the job done- some changes may be made but not right away- I'll drive it this Spring and Summer and have a note pad handy to make notes- already made one-
1. needs door weather strip-

Great that you got her home:) Looking forward to the pics!

I think something is wrong with me because I like that "musty old car smell" :eek:

Awesome find. Don Jr.

Pick up site- dealer I bought from- he's the tall one-
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On the road home- cruising along at 70 plus mph-
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In the garage with the Vettes- only Ford I own- I dropped my water bottle-
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Checked it all over- only rust I've found-
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Any one know what this is- ever saw anything like it-
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Made it home safe and sound- this morning I noticed I have a leaking rear wheel cylinder- that'll be my first fix- give me a chance to check all the brakes-

It looks like you have an early steering stabilizer in the front.

Found out why it had skirts- the 9" Ford rear was installed about 1" to far to the rear-
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Maybe I'll just run the skirts as well but it may be an easy fix-

My first thought at a glance was the same as Dave's about being a steering stablilizer, but if it brackets to the spring the same at both ends then it's probably a "helper" spring for the saggy original.........................hmmmmm, would that make it a "Bra Bar"?:confused:

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

My first thought at a glance was the same as Dave's about being a steering stablilizer, but if it brackets to the spring the same at both ends then it's probably a "helper" spring for the saggy original.........................hmmmmm, would that make it a "Bra Bar"?:confused:

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I thought maybe it was a cheap way to help the spring as well- Bra-Bar is good one-:) wife got a hoot out of that-

Dig the car being an owner of a '46 cpe too.

I'd correct the rear install, update the front so the helper spring is not needed & lower to the ground. Then I'd drive the wheels off it this year.

Nice ride.

Enjoy.

REGS

I have a 46, if you want an easy seat change Mark VIII seats will fit right in, the back seats you just unhook the back take it out, take the bottom out, set a 2X4 on its side across hump, level screw to stock board, the back you just hang on the 46 hangers fits right in. The front you have to make some risers to lift the seats a little drill holes so you can mount to stock holes and then just drill holes for inside by hump.

Bob

Check the center bolt on those springs - it might be as simple as changing the springs side for side. You do have to make sure that the drive shaft has enough yoke as well to fit the transmission correctly.

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Originally Posted by IC2

Check the center bolt on those springs - it might be as simple as changing the springs side for side. You do have to make sure that the drive shaft has enough yoke as well to fit the transmission correctly.

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Thanks! That was going to be the first thing I checked- I hung a rear years ago and the spring was centered 24 " from each end- like you say- this one may have been installed reversed by past owner when he did the conversion- remembering seeing years ago how someone had made that honest mistake-

Another thought on the rear end shift, if you want to lower it some (prevents nose bleeds), you could make up lowering blocks with offset locator hole and pin to shift the axle without changing the springs around (if that would make a difference). On the yoke, if it's correct now, you may end up shortening the shaft or the yoke depending.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Another thought on the rear end shift, if you want to lower it some (prevents nose bleeds), you could make up lowering blocks with offset locator hole and pin to shift the axle without changing the springs around (if that would make a difference). On the yoke, if it's correct now, you may end up shortening the shaft or the yoke depending.

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:HMMM:Checked it out this morning- driver's side is centered- so now pulling u-bolts on passenger side- checking for a broken spring bolt- see what has let is slip back-

Wheel brake cylinder has a slight leak on that same side- fixing that at the same time- this is not that exciting of stuff so I'm not taking pictures-:D

Leaving the ride height alone for now but can see several inches lower in it's future- :cool:

OH thats so sweet ....really needs a nice tube chassis and some wheel tubs on air ride, come on the site could use another pro street 40's hot rod!:)

Brakes fixed- replaced wheel cylinders- not just the leaker- had a bear of a time getting the filler bolt out of the master cylinder- next project will be to change that to a dual master-

I checked center bolt on spring- OK- checked measurements side to side from crossmember to spring center bolt- within a 1/8 inch- so anyone have any ideas why one wheel is back in wheel opening 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch- not centered- wife followed me and says it is not dog tracking so now what should I check-

take some measurements from the door post to wheel and fender opening

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2bubbas

I checked center bolt on spring- OK- checked measurements side to side from cross member to spring center bolt- within a 1/8 inch- so anyone have any ideas why one wheel is back in wheel opening 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch- not centered- wife followed me and says it is not dog tracking so now what should I check-

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Sometime in its 65 year life it could have had (1)a replacement fender or (2) been hit and the frame is trapezoidal or kinked or (3) the differential is bent or (4) spring mounts are installed back/forth in the wrong place.

If you can find a drive on lift, that along with a tape measure and a frame dimension drawing, spend an hour taking measurements.

Thanks Jerry and IC2:

I'll do it- The mounts measure out the same in relation to the frame- the springs are the same- so I'll start checking frame- it's not that much out but it bugs me- :confused:

Have you measured the actual wheelbase both sides? When you say the springs are the same does that include where the locator pin is in relation to the eys? Is the locator hole on the axles spring pad in the same position? Just some thoughts that come to mind that haven't been written.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Have you measured the actual wheelbase both sides? When you say the springs are the same does that include where the locator pin is in relation to the eys? Is the locator hole on the axles spring pad in the same position? Just some thoughts that come to mind that haven't been written.

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All good suggestions- I'll be checking in a day or two- Thanks!

another thing, has the body ever been off the frame ? it may have been refitted a bit out of line, or the body mounting bolts might have come loose over the years,
when i mounted my body back on the frame i had the same problem, i just bolted it straight up without checking and my right rear was sitting back in the guard. i loosened the body mounts and measured from frame to body front and rear and got it all centred on the frame and it solved my problem.
barnsey

I could see putting a mustang IFS under there real quick. Nice looking ride did you bring it back through the U.P.?

Back working on it- so far ran new exhaust- up in the frame and not interfering with suspension travel- converted to a dual master cylinder and new wheel cylinders and shoes- sent out some stuff to be chromed- will be doing seats and door panels- some rattle can painting- the floor is solid but does have some pin holes- needs a new front spring- that goofy helper was on there for a reason it seems- plan is to drive it as is for rest of this year.

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man that is a sweet ride.