Congrats on the new hardware to the whole crew!!!! Very well done!
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Congrats on the new hardware to the whole crew!!!! Very well done!
Thanks, Dave. What is really cool about all the trophies that are handed out at the Billetproof events is that they are handmade by rodders who volunteer to make them, and they are really works of art. The one for Best Truck is cool, and the one for Best of Show is HUGE, and HEAVY. It must weigh 40 pounds.:eek: We are going to volunteer to make one for the show next Spring. I have some neat old parts that would make a nice trophy, I think.
Dan liked his car being in Rod and Kulture so much he bought an extra copy, cut the picture and write up out and made a framed poster out of it. He included his window sheet from the show, some stuff from the goodie bag, and stuff like that. It turned out nice, and I think it took a little of the sting of his engine problems away. :)
Don
That just makes me smile big...............kinda like a first girl friend deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Yeah, Bob, you did good, telling us about it being in there. You do have your moments. :D
Don
Could someone scan it and post as we don't get that mag here
Picked up a copy at Barnes and Noble today---
Steve, it is essentially the front quarter picture that was shown earlier, one of others in a feature on Billetproof, Florida. There was a nice paragraph written about the car, and the only thing not totally accurate was them saying it was built by Dan and me. Anyone who knows the build realizes Dan put in hundreds , maybe thousands of hours all by himself on this one. I sent an email that I hope they will publish in their readers mail section, clarifying how little I had to do with this car. Dan deserves sole credit for all of it. (Although Don and I were there to kick him in the butt on those occasions he got depressed over it taking so long :D).Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Don
Don---I have several articals stored away from mag articals on my cars and some of the nicest ones are the artical laminated onto a wood panel which makes a super trouphy wall art
That sounds like a great idea, Jerry. How do you laminate it to the wood?
Don
I don't know--Hot Rod Magazine gave them to us after they published the articals
but I would bet that a trouphy type place could tell you
they are probably 40 years old now and still nice
try some paper out of a mag thats the same .i would think west systems would work tack it down with it when dry leve it sand up to wet 220 up to 600 girt then clearQuote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Don,Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Go to a craft supply place like Hobby Lobby and get Decoupage Glue. It's like a thick clear resin that you pour over the surface, allowing it to self level and encapsulate the wood.
I've seen trophies like you are describing so I bet that clear resin is the ticket. I'll have to look into it.
Don
Don,Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
A lot of the trendy bars & resturants use it on their tables, making a cheap, sturdy tabletop, spreading decorations over the top, elevating it level and then floating on a coat of decoupage glue/resin allowing it to flow over the edge and drip. Then just cut off the drips, smooth the back side and it's done. You can paint on a thin coat of glue on the back side to prevent any moisture wicking into the wood, depending on the use.
Ideas sound good but I would suggest trying it on something similar before you use the actual magazine articals--
Some of my are just the artical stuff and I also have put away some pages also using the mag cover to show magzine name issue and date--and then also of course put away some complete copies as over the years the ones you show everybody will start to gradually come apart
Again pass on congrats, and to you also
Jerry
Pass my congrats onto Dan,Don,,you guys did a good job on that rod..I made a phone call this morning,and managed to get the last copy on the shelf at Magoos Street Rods,Will get it next Friday at the Palmerston North swap meet,,which we have a trade stand at..Still trying to find Car kulture deluxe,Feb.2010 issue..:eek:
Well, thanks, guys. It was only one picture among others and one paragraph, but still very cool to have that happen. I'll pass on the nice words to Dan. :)
The gameplan for this weekend is to first of all go to the machine shop to see if maybe they are done or close to being done with Dan's engine. I broke down and told him it was there, and surprisingly, he didn't chew me out for jumping the gun.:)
After that, we are planning on taking the mockup of my rpu back apart and getting out the frame jig. We can at least get the front and rear crossmembers figured out. I want a 2 x 3 rectangular front crossmember in this one instead of the usual round one. Two reasons for that. I think it will give it somewhat of a different look than the usual T bucket type front crossmembers, and, I need some extra width up front for the model A radiator shell and the precut tubes we have are all 23 1/2 inches wide.
We bought up a few of them when Total Performance went out of business and are saving them for some future projects. (Dan wants to build a late 60's style T bucket next), and when I slipped one into the opening at the front of my rails it was too narrow. My front crossmember needs to be 25 1/2 to accomdate the model a shell. I have some 3 and 4 inch tubing at the shop so we should be able to knock out the front and rear crossmembers this weekend.
Don
there is a product called " pour it on " it is a 2 part polymer that can be found at an arts and craft shop. i use it a lot making trophies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
I figured there had to be something like that. It must cure very bubble free and clear.
Don
Today Dan and I got a lot done. First of all, we went by the machine shop to check on his engine. It is all bored and was in the fixture to align bore it when we got there. It looks great. I looked for a name on the align boring machine and I think it said Renegade. or something like that. I could be mistaken, but I know it started with an R. He says it should be done next week, which brings up a question. Should we have everything balanced? He wants only $ 200 more to do that, and the only reason we are not jumping on having it done is that the engine ran smooth before, and it will probably never see over 3500 rpms on the street. What do you experts think?
Then we spent the rest of the day working on my rpu frame. We had to do a little truing up to get the two rails exactly the same shape and same length, but we got that taken care of. Then we jigged it up and cut the front crossmember on a mitered cut and have that ready to weld in tomorrow. It's starting to look like a frame, and is getting VERY HEAVY ! :eek: 2 x 4 x 3/16 wall sure is heavier than 2 x 3, but It will never flex, that's for sure. With 700 pounds of Olds engine up front I figure it won't hurt to overbuild it.
Here are some pictures of it in the bandsaw for trimming and then jigged up. By tomorrow night we should have the front and rear crossmembers welded in.
Don
That looks good,Don..I dont think you will have any strength issues with that frame..That would even pass muster down here with our certification system,,We have a minimum of 3x2x about 4mm wall thickness..(I think).
Just subscribing so I don't miss any important chapters
Lamin8r, what does 4 mm relate to in inches ?...........I'm terrible with math. :o
Don
.157'' or approx 5/32""
Don - I'll bet he's in bed now.
1mm = .039 inches
25.4mm = 1 inch
4mm = .157 inch
.157 = ~5/32nds
Guess I have to be quicker then the standard Canadian:eek:
Ah, that is almost 3/16, so they really do hold them to a high standard. Thanks guys for doing the math for me. :)
Realistically, I could have used 1/8 inch wall for this one, especially since I went 2 x 4, but I just feel better with the extra thickness there. (Well, I'm not feeling so good about it this morning............every muscle is hurting from lifting that baby last night, and it keeps getting heavier all the time. :LOL:) We were laughing about it last night because it took four big guys to carry Dan's frame one time, and they were straining. We might err on the side of heavy when we build these things. :o
Don
is it a line bore or line hone ? most engines never need a line bore as the mass of iron round the mains hold them true less its lived a hard life or hurt or block has moved . hone works ok for taken small amonts out to true every thing in . there many names of machines .Tobin Arp .Sunnen .AMC. Breco .RMC . Rottler.Storm Vulcan.KwikWay.Peterson..Winona Van Norman. Scledum.Robbi.DMC tech .i have a Tobin ARP TA 14 .it will do all the engines that i work on when i need the line bore re bored .it has arms that hold the bore bar in front and in back of each main cap as you bore .it takes more time but you have no bore bar whip like i have got back from a shop in town that did my blocks till i pick up the tobin arp. not so big it takes up all the shop .many of the machines come from India
Don nice shots of the frame build. For people like me who have never built a frame from scratch, it is cool to see the step by step process. I like the Jet bandsaw, by the way. I bet that thing comes in handy!
On the engine balancing thing, I'm certainly not the expert here, but 200 bucks for insurance, seems reasonable. I'm not sure what they do to balance it, but this build being as special as it has been for Dan, I think he'll feel better if it's done, and not second guess that he should have gone with it, later down the line, after its back together. You guys continue to amaze me with the stuff you can do, litterally almost making a car from scratch!
Dunno,,I couldnt remember either..:o Just had a look at the LVVTA manual,that we use for guidelines..and we are still allowed to use 3x2 box with 1/8''wall,but a lot of guys are using 1/4'' wall..Minimum size..Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Yes,Dave W,,I was asleep,,it was 4.22am when Don asked the question..:D:D If you want to have a look at what we have to do to put a scratch built car on the road in NZ,,try this out..
Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association Incorporated..
You will probably need a degree in lawyer speak to understand it..Makes ya read it a couple of times before you actually do anything..sorta read twice,cut once,if ya get my drift..:eek:
Pat, I may be using the wrong term when I say "align bored". It may be that he just hones it to true everything up. The machine I saw had thick steel plates that grabbed the block (block was upside down in the machine) and it had a fixture going through the cam bearing holes, and another fixture going into the main caps. I only looked briefly and didn't know what I was looking at anyway.:o
Steve, that bandsaw has been one of the best investments we made, well actually that Dan made. He bought that some years ago and I couldn't even begin to guess how many cuts it has made and how troublefree it has been. It still has the original belt on it and we have only replaced the blade maybe 4 or 5 times in all those cuts. Every time we make a cut with it, especially some odd angle or shape, we say "How would we do this without this saw?" and in fact I just said that tonight as we were cutting some stuff.
As for the frame creation, I really have to give credit for those to Dan. I'm prejudiced, of course, but he is really smart when it comes to figuring out how to do something the right way. I had one vision for what I wanted this frame to be, and he took it to the next level, and he usually does that when he gets involved with one of my builds. He drives me nuts sometimes because he won't bend, but in the end he is usually right.
And now...........TA DA !!!!!!!!!!!!! I have a (mostly) finished frame to post pictures of. :D Dan and I worked on getting the front and rear crossmembers built and welded in place, and got the initial grinding done. I love the way it came out. It is perfectly square, very strong, and will give me a great platform to build the rpu on. Now I can start making a front perch and getting the front suspension figured out. Once that is done I can move on to the backside. The plan seems to be that I am going to use a four bar setup with coil overs. None of it will show, so a more modern rear suspension won't detract from the old timey look I want.
Here are some pictures from tonight. We are both tired and sore, but feeling pretty happy right now. :D This is the look I was after. I didn't want the usual round front crossmember, and once the perch is in place and the Moon tank mounted it will look much narrower. The frame is 25 1/2 inches wide in front and 34 1/2 wide in back.
Don
yep,,nice looking frame,Don..I,too,noticed that flash saw,and thought it would be a neat addition to any workshop,,and then thought,,,nah,dont need one,most of my work is in glass...:D
Thanks, Lamin8r. From time to time we use that saw to cut lumber too. :D Anytime we need to cut down a 2 x 4 or other piece of wood we toss it in there and it goes through it like butter.
Don
Don your threads (builds) are most intertaining and educational. When I get up early or can't sleep at night I sit and read them sometimes more than once. Just thought I'd let you in on that. And Thanks
sounds like a sunnen/RMC or Rottler machine center were it deck s bore s and line bores the block in one setting good way to go if your only doing one engine at a time its only about $80.000 with some tooling
Don that frame is looking beefy. What do you guys figure it weighs as is welded together now? I can't imagine it's much fun lugging it around at this point! What plans for paint? Powder coat or home spray? I know your going for a distressed look, so I was just curious!
Geez, thanks, Charlie. :) I feel the same way about other people's builds and I get excited when I see their thread alive again with new stuff being posted.
Pat, I think it does do more than just the align bore or hone. It had an overhead arm that sort of reminded me of a Bridgeport that probably does the resurfacing. I know so little about machining that it is all Greek to me. :o
Steve, I was surprised last night when we were flipping it over and over for welding on all sides that it isn't as heavy as I thought. I mean, it is still not light, but Dan and I were able to move it around without using the crane. If I had to guess, I would say maybe 150-200 pounds, so far. The individual rails seemed heavy, but maybe because they were hard to handle compared to the completed frame.
We are still going to add some round tube crossmembers in the rear, and I think I want that 2 x 3 piece of tubing that is laying across the frame in the one picture cut and welded across the rail somewhere behind the tailshaft. I think that will stiffen up the frame a lot, especially since there will be a pretty long distance from the front crossmember to the transmission crossmember.
As for paint vs powdercoat, still not sure. I would love to have it powdercoated because all I would have to do is drop it off and pick it back up when done. I hate dragging out the paint equipment and all the prep work involved. But the problem is, I do want a slightly distressed or at least aged look to the car and the only way I can get that faded look it with paint.
But as you guys know from my past history on these things, I will change my mind 100 times before the whole thing is over and done. Instead of being indecisive, I prefer to think of myself as "flexible." :o:LOL:
Don
yep like said its a machine center more or less a big mill .no it will not hone they can do all block machining with it if you buy it....I look in to one 10 years ago the RMC /Sunnen is made in saginaw mi 30 miles from me
Yeah, like I said, me looking at his machinery was like someone seeing a UFO. It was all a mystery to me.......guess that's why I'm not a machinist.:)
He had a bbc on the dyno that was making 1000 hp, that was pretty impressive, but not as impressive as the last one he had on there making 2200. :eek:
Don
yep must be great to be were the money is :) machine shop business is a tuff deal up here i know 5 guys less then 40 miles away all can build 1000+hp engines. machine s are very pricey love to see that guys over head is . like i said i did look in to buy one of them machines but hard to justify a 80.000. dollar machine when guys do not want to pay 160. for a bore job?thats alot of bore jobs ... i am not crying i have a very nice shop.happy with the machines i have its been a long road to get were i am at .I have some of the best tools and machines to do the job ever built .they may be old but no mother broad to burn out to stop me.. i keep rolling less i get hit in the head . were i can set up 4 machines to run at the same time do 4 jobs at one time were once the engine is in that machine if he has a guy walking in that needs a fast job your hands are tied till that engine is out of that machine sorry for venting :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Pat, like you once said, it is the guy behind the machine that makes the difference. There is no doubt in my mind that they don't come any better at that than you.:)
The guy down here was expressing the same thing the other day, sort of. He says he gets a lot of wannabes who want a 1000 hp motor but want to cut corners to save $$$. He says they buy a $ 10,000 motor from him and wonder why the guy at the track who has $25,000 in his beats him. :rolleyes:
He does keep pretty busy though, and says a lot of it is coming because the other shops in town are turning out crap...........no kidding, I found that out. :(
Don