It fits in there nicely and you can have air conditioning now also. Hidden under your full bonnet that engine will be cool.
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It fits in there nicely and you can have air conditioning now also. Hidden under your full bonnet that engine will be cool.
Hey,chicky legs,,,you can fold that Mercury Monterey up into a little package,,and mail it to me down here if you want..I ll take it off ya hands..:D:D
Incidentally,,that Hup is looking REAL kool...love the ride height..:cool:
There is nothing little about the Merc, even with it folded it will be oversized. It is for sale should you really want it, and now with a fresh radiator. Crazy bout a Mercury?Quote:
Originally Posted by lamin8r
so are you gunna tuck the exhaust up between the drivetrain n frame rails or go over the rail and do some dumps?
Fold it twice then...:D Bit of a rarity down here..There are a couple though..Yeah,it would be nice,but I have enough to do now,,importing another car is not on the to do list..Next time I want something,we will fly up for a holiday,,and bring one back..Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicken Legs
Yup,,Crazy bout a Mercury...:D
I plan on running em between the rails, no lakeside headers. Possibly running em under the rails and down under the running boards depending on what room I have to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by OSK
I built a crossmember for the motor mounts and transmission mount:
http://i41.tinypic.com/2lw6fs2.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/v6ssv9.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/1256zjb.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/2wrn2i8.jpg
Nice job; looks really stout.
Looks like it's built to take some abuse! Beefy is better sometimes! :)
Mounted the master cylinder on the firewall. I moved it to the far left as possible to allow room for the ECM and or battery box, as well as the air filter assembly. Next was to bend up the brake pedal to clear the steering column, and find the ideal spot for comfort.
http://i43.tinypic.com/v8k1o0.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/2u6mg74.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/n2k1mr.jpg
Steering column was from an 89 Lincoln. It tilts at the wheel. I didnt want all the extra switches/controls as well as the column shift so after studying the column it seemed like a good idea to strip it down to bare basics. I removed the steering lock, ignition switch, column shift, and wiper controls. I now only have the turn signal switch, with high beam control and hazard button while also retaining the tilt of the wheel. The inner contol rod that links up to the steering linkage is tellescopic which makes adjusting to the right length easy to accomplish. I mounted the steering column much like the original, and kept the serial number badge in its original location. Plans are to find an old steering wheel that looks more period correct.
http://i39.tinypic.com/2vxprgg.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/25hmnmr.jpg
I was given a 40's era Ford steering wheel today. I was hoping for an easy install being Im using a ford column, but no such luck. The 40's wheel has a key way, my column has a squared tapered shaft.
I decided to cut the center out of the lincoln wheel, and install it in the ford wheel.
Center cut from Lincoln wheel:
http://i41.tinypic.com/2hegc2e.jpg
On the left is the ford's keyed steering wheel center that I removed using a hole saw, on the right is the lincolns that I reused:
http://i40.tinypic.com/madwrl.jpg
Pic of the Ford wheel with center removed:
http://i42.tinypic.com/2b66ic.jpg
Rear of the steering wheel, new hub welded in:
http://i42.tinypic.com/30ro37r.jpg
Front of wheel, a little more weld:
http://i44.tinypic.com/2myozdw.jpg
The ford wheel had the horn wire ran thru the center of the column. The lincoln uses a copper slip ring with contacts. I trimmed down the slip ring, drilled a hole in the back of the ford wheel, and installed the slip ring so the horn button would work. Rear of ford wheel with slip ring attached:
http://i43.tinypic.com/301g3fb.jpg
I still have to build a dress ring for the rear of the column to hide the wire plug, but I think it will clean up nicely. Side view of the column:
http://i43.tinypic.com/alq9n8.jpg
Column tilted down:
http://i44.tinypic.com/3wk1g.jpg
Column tilted up:
http://i41.tinypic.com/of368j.jpg
Very nice adaptation work there! Like the jump in and make something work approach.
Big Tracks, I know what you mean about cutting up vintage cars, I do think its better than having them rust away in a field like so many do. And it seems as a street rod they are usually worth more than in a stock condition unless they are a perfect specimen. Its amazing you can buy almost perfect condition good running model T's for under 10K,
CL, That Hup is going to be a really cool "Gangsta" ride. You could prolly raise the frame off the rear axle 2 or 3 inches to center the wheel in the fender and not have to notch the rame hardly any.
Chick,
Looking at your brake pedal. Question- Have you tried standing on the brakes like one would do in an emergency situation? The reason I ask is you make some severe bends/angles to get the pedal around the steering column. Maybe it is the picture. It looks like you would be better off coming around the column on the left side. Making for a more vertical/stronger brake pedal.
Hey chicken legs, I dont see the motor cycle in ant of the pictures. i believe we met at the jasper car show. i talked with you and your wife. i had the blue lowered 36 chevy at the show. Jonathan
Yeah, Tom, that really bugs me sometimes.Quote:
Originally Posted by TomJ
A couple of instances come to mind. A guy I worked with a few years back bought an absolutely beautiful '32 Ford coupe from the original owner's estate, then he did what? He sold the fenders, bumpers, hood, grill, seats, and other stuff. Then he cut about a 12" lengthwise section out of the body and raced it at the old original "Devil's Bowl" dirt track near Dallas.
I was really griped at him about that up until he died in the car. It was kind of hard to be mad at him after that. Bill Rogers was his name if you happen to remember him.
But on the other hand, the father of a girl I worked with at the same company (Braniff) decided to modify a car that I thought "messin' with" should be a crime punishable by death. a '48 Lincoln Continental. I can't tell you how fine that car turned out! Subtle changes to the roof line, the spare tire mount, wheel openings, interior ..... heck. I don't recall what else, but it was just beautiful.
That said, I think Chicken Legs project is great. He is keeping, and adding to, the car's original elegance while turning it into a very drivable showpiece.
Say, Tom, you have a join date of April 2001?
WOW! Does that mean you have seniority over Uncle Bob?
Where you been?
Jim
Thanks for your concern, but to answer your question, yes Ive stood on the pedal, and it doesnt seem to flex. I braced in the top of the pedal mount accordingly, and the pedal is of 1/2 steel. Keep the feedback, comin.Quote:
Originally Posted by MRTS33
Motorsickle is sittin in the corner. Good to see you on here, and yes I remember you and the car. Very slick ride!! Drop by sometime, I'll put you to work!Quote:
Originally Posted by OHMY34
Ive been working on the engine wiring harness. I extended the wires to mount the PCM in between the front frame horns.
http://i41.tinypic.com/2rzdj86.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/1zl9h76.jpg
I still have a few items to finish, but its close to being ready to run, (hopefully).
I built the triangulated 4-link, and hung the 8.8 rear. I still have to cut out for drive shaft clearance on the cross member, as well as cut the frame for suspension clearance, as the ride height has the axle 1" below the frame rail.
This is my first attempt at building a rear suspension, feedback encouraged!
Initial set up. Pinion angle on 3 degrees up:
http://i39.tinypic.com/dort3n.jpg
I have about a 1/4" side to side axle movement. Anyway to get this out? Also, how much clearance should I allow between the frame and rear axle?
Jim,
I don't remember Bill Rogers but I didn't come to Texas untill 1981. I was a member of Brents "Club Cobra". When he started this site I joined. I was working on a 30 model A project which I sold b4 finishing. (My wife hasn't let me live that one down yet). I retired last year and started building my lifelong dream, a rod I can drive. I've used as many early '28 parts as I can find but the only parts I have cut beyond restoration are 12" off the back of the bed. We need to meet for coffee one day.
CL i'd try 4" to start. I'm surprised you have side motion with that system. You could do a panard rod.
Wont springs and shocks help to tighten the 1/4" up. I am anxious to see how the LT1 works out. I picked up a 94 Roadmaster with 50K miles on it just before Xmas. I would like to figure how to put a 50 chevy 1/2 ton on the frame. Sure would make things easier. The Hupmobile is moving right along.
I got the slack out of the 4-link. Turns out I had a bad cut on one of my bushing sleeves.
I bought a Manex rear air from 'U yank it' which came out of a limo. I figured for $40 bucks the self contained heat and air was worth a shot. The size is a little more than I could stuff under the dash in its entirety so I decided to cut a hole thru the firewall and recess the double fan motor. It moves some air.
http://i40.tinypic.com/21kgww1.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/2502pok.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/m76fdc.jpg
I got it tucked under the dash pretty well. The car orginally had wood sill plates, which Ive redone in steel. I think I will duct a vent into the steel sill plate since its hollow, to channel heat and air to the rear of the car.
http://i43.tinypic.com/iop8pg.jpg
Built a cover.
http://i40.tinypic.com/1672eds.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/fond46.jpg
cool project! It looks like you have the wiring layed out pretty well, but if you need some help sorting out all that extra LT1 wiring shbox.com was a huge help for me. It is based on the Camaro/Firebird, but I'm sure most of the Roadmaster stuff is the same and it could help identifying what you don't need.
That tin work looks good.
Great idea on the HVAC.:3dSMILE:
Yep your solution to the size issue was fantastic. Like the results. Nice sheet metal work!
35fordcoupe - thanks for the wiring link
ScooterCo & Stovens - thanks for the feedback and compliment. I bent the tin around a fire extinquisher, and thats the first Ive used a bead roller. Im pleased with the results.
Questions:
Whats a good source for rear coil over shocks?
How would I figure what length and what weight to buy?
Im thinking the longest I can stuff under the car the better the ride will be, and as far as weight Ive read that the car was around #3000 original, so I would assume that number wouldnt change too much.
If you use the search option at the upper right of each page, type in "coil over" then search. It'll give you all sorts of info found in the threads. Here's one that I was doing for my car. http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-ta...placement.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Chicken Legs
Heres the start. A/C compressor mounted too far outside. Hood bonnet wont clear without mods, so some different brackets are in order.
http://i41.tinypic.com/nzo8jo.jpg
Started off hangin the compress where I thought it should go, then I made some templates out of paper:
http://i40.tinypic.com/14mcnk.jpg
Some tracin, a little torch work and lots of grinding:
http://i41.tinypic.com/2utrjmh.jpg
Using some 1/2 sch. 40 pipe, I cut a few pieces and mounted them to the block using all-thread. The holes in the a/c, & alt. plates are large enough so the plates are adjustable as to set the correct spacing with aligning the belt.
http://i44.tinypic.com/6emanq.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/16aqolv.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/2dw6rv9.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/2aj7y4n.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/2niwsxz.jpg
I still have to align the brackets and weld them, as well as cut down the length of the pipe and replace the all-thread with some hardened hardware.
Yeah, these tight hoods on the 30's cars can really be a nightmare!!!! Your brackets should work out super when they're all done! Are you making them out of aluminum or steel?
Really looking forward to getting the Plymouth done and gone, every time I look at the '57 Chevy I just can't believe all the room I'm going to have to put stuff!!!!!!!!
Good work, anxious to see the whole thing come together!
Nice bracket work! Those should hold real well.
They are steel. Im trying to keep em easy to work with. I may punch some holes in them to lighten em up and add some stylin.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson