Nice brackets. Similar approach to Rocky Hinge's setup, and waaay more economical!! Looking good!
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Nice brackets. Similar approach to Rocky Hinge's setup, and waaay more economical!! Looking good!
I belt tensioner wasnt working out well in the original position with the belts new angle, so I decided to move it to the driver side since I had more room to work with. Now I have to remount the coil in another location.
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Nice job! It's big bux for brackets like that. Did you have the tools to cut those out yourself?
Yeah it was torch, grinder, drill bits, 1" & 3" hole saw, beer, and time.Quote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
Thanks for the compliments!
Nice Work!!!
Skinny belt though:LOL:;):3dSMILE:just kidding!
Every bit as nice as Alan Grove brackets. Good work!
^ +2 reading this may put me following instead of modifying other brackets .
Looking for a 180 degree elbow to place the air filter over top of the motor. The motor opening is oval, and the MAF seems to hold a 3.5" tube. Anyone know a source for these, or do I have to build it?
Don't know of any, did some looking for a similar intake on the Plymouth, wound up building it. I did find some aluminum piece that was like $150.00---I can do a lot of fab and paint work for that!
Chicken legs If you look up the strength of your threaded rod you will most likely find it has as much or more tensile strength than some bolts the cheap American Made (plane steel) 55,000 to 70,000 psi. just trying to save you some $$$. .....B7 4140 steel about a grade 8
if you have room at the firewall you can reverse the intake manifold on the lt engines
I am showing up here lurking on the work you do ..
Spend last weekend with some detail work, and planning the intake air plumbing. I mounted the coil, and dressed up the alt&a/c brackets.
I found some 3.5" steel pipe as well as some 4". I cut the 3.5 into some short 22.5 degree angles to start the bend to mimic the pattern I had laid out on cardboard. The 4" was flattened a bit in my vise till it looked like the intake of the motor. I found a 3.5" rubber sleeve at a hardware store to connect my plumbing to the motor. I also had to build a reducer sleeve to mount from the mass air to the air filter. Finally I finished it of with a cross bracket that connects the alt bracket to the a/c bracket and supports the intake plumbing. All this is just 16 or so hours! O yeah, and for a cherry on top I thought Id pick up a serpentine belt. Five belts later and I still dont have a fit. Seems the narrow window in length is between 72 1/8 (that just wont fit) to 72 5/8 (that I can throw on).
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That should work...I'm sure you saved some coin over my overpriced Street & Performance air cleaner. Just a thought though, if you don't plan on fooling with the power much you might consider taking off that MAF sensor and switch the computer over to speed density like the 93's. I think it looks a lot cleaner (although I didn't realize using the S&P air cleaner would cause issues at the time). I have polished valve covers and a Lokar dipstick now too - not pictured.
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I moved the puter from between the front frame horns to the bottom of the engine compartment on the lower passenger side. Much cleaner and it keeps me from having to build/modify a cover over the frame horns to cover it.
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Rear frame notched:
http://i50.tinypic.com/jj65tu.jpg
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Im thinking I'll use bag shocks on the rear.
I like the stance on the car so far, but Im concerned with the front being so low in that I dont think the tires will clear the fenders to turn, so its either widen the fenders for such or change out the spindles to bring things up a bit.
http://i48.tinypic.com/eprnm1.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/4scris.jpg
Some different front wheels with more backspacing and shorter diameter tires would help, too. Other then lack of turn radius, the mockup looks good!!!!
Got a little work done today framing the interior. I bought a Harbor Freight tubing bender and the extra dies for square tubing and opened them up to accept 1". Im using this tubing to replace the wood framing. Works okay if your persistant. Ive found I can bend 1x1 16GA on a 90 over a length of 18". Bending 90 into a 12" piece is more work than is feasible. I plan to build a jig with a relief to bend the tubing in tight 90's where needed, but thats another day.
http://i50.tinypic.com/345klza.jpg
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I'm glad to see you're still at it. The framing all looks great! I agree with Dave on the front tire height and backspacing. I think the front needs a shorter tire for looks anyway although you'll have to be careful not to end up with more tire to fender gap in the front than the back. I would not try to widen the front fenders...I think that would be the most work and hard to make it look right. You could also try a narrower wheel and tire and if all else fails narrowed control arms. I got tubular narrowed control arms with my front end from Heidt's. If I remember right they are 5/8" narrower on either side. right now my car is set up almost as low as the coil overs allow in front with a 3.5" back space and it rubs the fender a hair at full lock, but they're mock up wheels and tires that should be a bit shorter when we get the final ones. Obviously our cars are not exactly the same, but I think you'll get it right!
good choice I have a Hup with that combo
More than three years since the last post.....Quote:
Originally Posted by notsofastdavid
I bought this car last year and am working on finishing it now.
I just found this car last night on this website. I bought the car from chicken legs a little over a year ago. This is my 5th rod even though I have done a lot I am still a year away form being finished. It is a drivable chassis now and the work goes on.
Welcome to the forum! Looking forward to seeing how you finish the project!Quote:
Originally Posted by notsofastdavid
YES! Welcome Aboard.. glad you found us and glad you've decided to participate. Hope you can make time to share some pics with us too.