Motorsickle is sittin in the corner. Good to see you on here, and yes I remember you and the car. Very slick ride!! Drop by sometime, I'll put you to work!
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Ive been working on the engine wiring harness. I extended the wires to mount the PCM in between the front frame horns.
http://i41.tinypic.com/2rzdj86.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/1zl9h76.jpg
I still have a few items to finish, but its close to being ready to run, (hopefully).
I built the triangulated 4-link, and hung the 8.8 rear. I still have to cut out for drive shaft clearance on the cross member, as well as cut the frame for suspension clearance, as the ride height has the axle 1" below the frame rail.
This is my first attempt at building a rear suspension, feedback encouraged!
Initial set up. Pinion angle on 3 degrees up:
http://i39.tinypic.com/dort3n.jpg
I have about a 1/4" side to side axle movement. Anyway to get this out? Also, how much clearance should I allow between the frame and rear axle?
Jim,
I don't remember Bill Rogers but I didn't come to Texas untill 1981. I was a member of Brents "Club Cobra". When he started this site I joined. I was working on a 30 model A project which I sold b4 finishing. (My wife hasn't let me live that one down yet). I retired last year and started building my lifelong dream, a rod I can drive. I've used as many early '28 parts as I can find but the only parts I have cut beyond restoration are 12" off the back of the bed. We need to meet for coffee one day.
CL i'd try 4" to start. I'm surprised you have side motion with that system. You could do a panard rod.
Wont springs and shocks help to tighten the 1/4" up. I am anxious to see how the LT1 works out. I picked up a 94 Roadmaster with 50K miles on it just before Xmas. I would like to figure how to put a 50 chevy 1/2 ton on the frame. Sure would make things easier. The Hupmobile is moving right along.
I got the slack out of the 4-link. Turns out I had a bad cut on one of my bushing sleeves.
I bought a Manex rear air from 'U yank it' which came out of a limo. I figured for $40 bucks the self contained heat and air was worth a shot. The size is a little more than I could stuff under the dash in its entirety so I decided to cut a hole thru the firewall and recess the double fan motor. It moves some air.
http://i40.tinypic.com/21kgww1.jpg
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http://i43.tinypic.com/m76fdc.jpg
I got it tucked under the dash pretty well. The car orginally had wood sill plates, which Ive redone in steel. I think I will duct a vent into the steel sill plate since its hollow, to channel heat and air to the rear of the car.
http://i43.tinypic.com/iop8pg.jpg
Built a cover.
http://i40.tinypic.com/1672eds.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/fond46.jpg
cool project! It looks like you have the wiring layed out pretty well, but if you need some help sorting out all that extra LT1 wiring shbox.com was a huge help for me. It is based on the Camaro/Firebird, but I'm sure most of the Roadmaster stuff is the same and it could help identifying what you don't need.
That tin work looks good.
Great idea on the HVAC.:3dSMILE:
Yep your solution to the size issue was fantastic. Like the results. Nice sheet metal work!
35fordcoupe - thanks for the wiring link
ScooterCo & Stovens - thanks for the feedback and compliment. I bent the tin around a fire extinquisher, and thats the first Ive used a bead roller. Im pleased with the results.
Questions:
Whats a good source for rear coil over shocks?
How would I figure what length and what weight to buy?
Im thinking the longest I can stuff under the car the better the ride will be, and as far as weight Ive read that the car was around #3000 original, so I would assume that number wouldnt change too much.
If you use the search option at the upper right of each page, type in "coil over" then search. It'll give you all sorts of info found in the threads. Here's one that I was doing for my car. http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-ta...placement.html