1967 Mustang Coupe build

Well this project started in 1997 when I got it . I have a few others that side tracked me , like a move also . As with most Mustangs they rust on the inside out . Attachment 59092Attachment 59089Attachment 59090Attachment 59091



I could have just patched it and ran , but since panels are so cheap I figured I would make it better then new .

It sat for about 8 years while house projects took some time . I started nipping at it a few years ago getting the drive line back in and moving on its own .

I found it just a little north of me , been in a garage for a few years after the hood launched into the air the guy quit driving it .

Here it is on the second day home , the first day some new feul lines and battery it fired right up . The mice had about a small bucket of corn stored in the exhaust so it took a while to clear it out . :)



My 2 sons , cleaning , buffing and waxing it all up .




This is how the rear aprons looked after Apollo Hood .



The left torque box and firewall was pretty bad . They make all the right parts to repair any rust out .





After I replaced the parts to the firewall and floor toe pan and the box . .

I did the engine compartment first . I replaced the rear aprons and the right front where the battery sits .





Big issue with this type of shock tower and frame , is the build up of dirt and crud . The outer side of shock tower and to outer edge of frame it makes a pocket . It's about 1 inch deep by a few wide . It will cause drastic rot in the shock towers in most Mustangs . I was lucky and since this was garaged a lot it was clean and solid .



A lot of cleaning and sanding I finally got it to red oxide .



Needed to add this one in this line .

WOW Bobby, that looks nice! I didn't know that you had so much work already invested in the Mustang. Looking forward to learning more of this car.

Next one to tackle was the floors . I could have just done the fronts it was the only rust after years of salt . The floors come complete one piece front , just of the toe kick to the back where under the rear seat starts . As I mentioned prices of sheet metal are so cheap it is not worth patching them .

Fitting in a toe panel


This is what a full floor side looks like when in its place . Helps make a guarantee for a solid foundation when doing a mustang . You see in the floor support and can coat and prevent any rust
in the future .

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When I trimmed the panel for fit , you will notice I left the seat belt bolting area and went around it . I know it will keep the original strength in the floor at that point . Plus I don't have to worry about replacing the nut .



I replaced the front floor supports





I brushed the vari prime on

Mike is is really farther along then I think LOL . Not to much to do thats why im am getting back on it solid . Well that and the new one coming in soon .

lGo Bobby go!!

Guys from all around the country are now chanting... GO Bobby GO! :LOL:

Thanks Bob , the motivation is coming in to stick to just the one , I have practiced by not looking at the others to much in there garage . That's when I have a tendency to go eBay or site shopping , then a year gets lost .

LMAO close encounters .

Really looking good. Where did you buy the panels? I fired my 66 tonight and she smokes just a wee bit but the drive train can wait until I get all of the patching done.

Well I did the floors on both sides and did do a little patching on the inner wheel house . Did not feel it that assessable to take out all the outer structure. . I did how ever place a cup brush on a grinder and clean and then paint a good coat of self etching primer all over .

Well the trunk floors where not bad at all , but for $24 a piece at the time I could just drill out spot welds .

I took out the floors and cleaned both rear rails ,they were clean and no rust out which is very common to the model . Here after cleaning I again used the self etching primer with a brush .

I had the right quarter panel off at the same time ,.








I just ended up replacing all the panels that were intact by welds , I even spot welded the floors in like factory .

NTFDAY I purchased every thing from National Parts Depot In Michigan closes and fastest shipping to me


click this link


Restoring American History | Mustang Parts | Camaro Parts | Chevelle Parts | Ford Truck Parts | T-Bird Parts | Firebird Parts

Thank you. I've been looking at a place in Ok and I ordered a catalog from them and I'll order one fro NPD and compare prices and quality.

On a overall NTFDAY NPD saves you a lot . They seem to be averaging 10 % below most others who supply parts . I have purchased some sale items from others of eBay it being a special sale and free shipping .

Looking good, Bobby!!! I'm glad you finally gave this car it's own thread!!! This is just a warm up for the Cougar!!:D

Good job Bobby so how many projects we go going now...I`m confused

Good to see you back working on the 'horse Bobby!!!!

Thanks everyone Yeah I need to get this one done , it's to close to let sit .


Rich LOL I know how you feel , I my self wonder at times . I have been relaxed by switching off working some on all of them . But with the add of the Cougar coming ( Randy you are correct ) my plans are to get this shot and get the glass back in .

You may have to go back from top I am adding pics as I rescan and insert them of work .

Here both sides done and seam sealed in and primed . Sitting back now I know why , I wanted to cut off the seat mounts anyway to see the underneath condition , which is brought on the one piece floor sides .

Great rust repair and cool stang! My Mom has a 68 that we're in the process of fixing up. I traded a 61 Fairlane to a buddy of mine and he is in turn installing a FI 302 in it from our 91 Crown vic donor. It'll be nice to watch one be put together as I haven't messed with many pre 69 Mustangs.

40 the rust wasn't bad , I just went over replacing panels since they were cheap enough .



Re post pics so some are off

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The rear floors had a dime size rust hole on the left side , the underneath was scaling . So at $29 a piece I replaced them and the rear lower support panel , also the rear body panel . All the rear panels was just over $100 to renew them so I did .

These are really dirty from the truck drop offs being open a little .

Then all the sanding prep began . My son Josh crawled in there and hand sanded it all day .













I had seam sealed before primer and thought about the factory body shutz . I used rubberized 3M spray undercoating .

Next repair was the rockers , this one have rocker mldgs the lower fender on the right and the fronts of both rockers had some rust . Thought of purchasing rockers but at $60 a piece I did the manual repair . Next time I will buy the rockers and section them in :CRY: .



I did buy the lower fender repair panel for this , so I just removed what was needed to keep the job smaller . I also bought the inner lower brace to section on .

This man making panels work is very much LIKE WORK .

Here I began the cutting out of the rusted rocker on the rt side .



Here I made the patches and started the spot welding , then the fill welding .



All this work I can contribute to ClubHotRod for all the info I obtained in reading on other posts of everyone doing this kinda work . Many Thanks are due out there :) :) :).


The gaps were a tad off so I welding the door edge up , it was a aftermarket door skin .

Rust repair is just so much fun! NOT!!!!

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Originally Posted by cffisher

Rust repair is just so much fun! NOT!!!!

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sure doe's Charlie , specially when they look so good on the out side . Door edge gap repair

What are the best fitting repair panels for the mustangs? I have to get quarter skins but there are so many places selling them, I really don't want some tangya crap. If you know what I mean.

40 I don't think there is anyone making a great fitting panel . I purchased full quarters that came from Taiwan and had to drill the spot welds to get a better fit to trunk and extension . I would go thru National Depot though , I have had good luck with their sheet metal parts .

The lines on these Mustangs were not that good from the factory . So working any of them will be necessary , a patch is always best by replacing as little as needed . Trial assembly and removal is going to be done and maybe a few times if you change the whole panel even .

Here is a picture of just that , when I was installing the left quarter and rear tail light panel .

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This is one of fitting the bumper with them also . Making sure the width was close since the bumper follows the curve .

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So speaking of these might as well delve in . I was replacing the outer wheel houses also so full quarter's just made it easier . The fit and finish was explained out for 40 .

Here is a shot with the outer wheel house removed .

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This inside structure I wheel brushed down and also coated it with a brush in variprime . I figure it will keep out the elements for a long time to come .

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Here I am placing the outer wheel house and quarter on and getting the alignment correct . The after market wheel house fit the radius to the quarter just fine . So the work was placing the panels in the location spots and fitting them again . This part actually worked out just perfect .

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So with these parts aligned after moving panels and plenty of self tappers , she came out really well in the rear and both quarters .

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Finished up the right quarter which almost fell right in .

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Oh the big mouse nest I pulled out of the rocker panel .

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That's really looking good. I have a 66 you can do next if you think that you didn't get enough experience on yours.:D:LOL::LOL:

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Originally Posted by NTFDAY

That's really looking good. I have a 66 you can do next if you think that you didn't get enough experience on yours.:D:LOL::LOL:

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You know I always wondered what 5 or 6 of us living nearby could get done and how soon .

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Originally Posted by bluestang67

You know I always wondered what 5 or 6 of us living nearby could get done and how soon .

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That might be scary, Bobby!!!!!:LOL::LOL:

Thanks for the info and pics. IDK how far I'll get on thebody this year as far as rust replacement. May get it running and primer it and then paint it this winter. Thanks for the help though. How long ago did you do most of thes? The pics look maybe early to mid 90's? (Just taking a wild guess)

40 I bought the car in late 97 , those are 35 mm scanned so you hit the mark there . I did almost all the sheet metal in 2 years . We moved in 2000 and this house required a major over haul so it sat about 8 years before I went back to what I would call tinkering around . The last few years I did all the finishing edges and to this point . Reinstalled the drive line , and ready for paint I have blocked it once already .

Well as above I am nearing the corner , last to update is the right door skin I replaced and did all new lines brake and fuel . Prepped and primed and sanded it off just to prime and sand again .

Original paint on this fender .

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Then I cleaned up the deck lid a small spot on the right from previous work had to be redone .

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Right door skin was so far off I welded the edges to get it to fit the matching panels .

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This is it in full prime .

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Nice work! It'll be a really nice car when you're all done!