Thread: 1967 Mustang Coupe build
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03-30-2012 06:07 PM #1
1967 Mustang Coupe build
Well this project started in 1997 when I got it . I have a few others that side tracked me , like a move also . As with most Mustangs they rust on the inside out . 67mustang 007.jpg67mustang.jpg67mustang 003.jpg67mustang 005.jpg
I could have just patched it and ran , but since panels are so cheap I figured I would make it better then new .
It sat for about 8 years while house projects took some time . I started nipping at it a few years ago getting the drive line back in and moving on its own .
I found it just a little north of me , been in a garage for a few years after the hood launched into the air the guy quit driving it .
Here it is on the second day home , the first day some new feul lines and battery it fired right up . The mice had about a small bucket of corn stored in the exhaust so it took a while to clear it out .
My 2 sons , cleaning , buffing and waxing it all up .
This is how the rear aprons looked after Apollo Hood .
The left torque box and firewall was pretty bad . They make all the right parts to repair any rust out .
After I replaced the parts to the firewall and floor toe pan and the box . .Last edited by bluestang67; 09-22-2013 at 07:05 PM.
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03-30-2012 06:13 PM #2
I did the engine compartment first . I replaced the rear aprons and the right front where the battery sits .
Big issue with this type of shock tower and frame , is the build up of dirt and crud . The outer side of shock tower and to outer edge of frame it makes a pocket . It's about 1 inch deep by a few wide . It will cause drastic rot in the shock towers in most Mustangs . I was lucky and since this was garaged a lot it was clean and solid .
A lot of cleaning and sanding I finally got it to red oxide .
Needed to add this one in this line .Last edited by bluestang67; 09-22-2013 at 07:09 PM.
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03-30-2012 06:22 PM #3
Next one to tackle was the floors . I could have just done the fronts it was the only rust after years of salt . The floors come complete one piece front , just of the toe kick to the back where under the rear seat starts . As I mentioned prices of sheet metal are so cheap it is not worth patching them .
Fitting in a toe panel
This is what a full floor side looks like when in its place . Helps make a guarantee for a solid foundation when doing a mustang . You see in the floor support and can coat and prevent any rust
in the future .
Attachment 57616
Attachment 57614
Attachment 57615
When I trimmed the panel for fit , you will notice I left the seat belt bolting area and went around it . I know it will keep the original strength in the floor at that point . Plus I don't have to worry about replacing the nut .
I replaced the front floor supports
I brushed the vari prime onLast edited by bluestang67; 09-22-2013 at 07:20 PM.
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03-30-2012 06:23 PM #4
Mike is is really farther along then I think LOL . Not to much to do thats why im am getting back on it solid . Well that and the new one coming in soon .Last edited by bluestang67; 09-22-2013 at 07:22 PM.
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03-30-2012 06:16 PM #5
WOW Bobby, that looks nice! I didn't know that you had so much work already invested in the Mustang. Looking forward to learning more of this car.
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03-30-2012 06:24 PM #6
lGo Bobby go!!Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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03-30-2012 06:35 PM #7
Thanks Bob , the motivation is coming in to stick to just the one , I have practiced by not looking at the others to much in there garage . That's when I have a tendency to go eBay or site shopping , then a year gets lost .
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03-30-2012 06:59 PM #8
Well I did the floors on both sides and did do a little patching on the inner wheel house . Did not feel it that assessable to take out all the outer structure. . I did how ever place a cup brush on a grinder and clean and then paint a good coat of self etching primer all over .Last edited by bluestang67; 12-31-2012 at 06:11 AM.
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03-30-2012 07:10 PM #9
trunk floor
Well the trunk floors where not bad at all , but for $24 a piece at the time I could just drill out spot welds .
I took out the floors and cleaned both rear rails ,they were clean and no rust out which is very common to the model . Here after cleaning I again used the self etching primer with a brush .
I had the right quarter panel off at the same time ,.
I just ended up replacing all the panels that were intact by welds , I even spot welded the floors in like factory .Last edited by bluestang67; 09-23-2013 at 06:22 PM.
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03-30-2012 06:34 PM #10
Guys from all around the country are now chanting... GO Bobby GO!
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03-30-2012 06:36 PM #11
LMAO close encounters .
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04-06-2012 02:23 AM #12
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04-06-2012 10:35 PM #13
So we got the body together so a little drive line and suspension . Not as much work so this went a lot faster .
Shot from front lower .
What it starts like .
After the scraping sanding and painting .
When its all back together .
Cleaning the rear end , no sandblaster near by . All work was done with a cup brush .
Torquing down with 5 leaf instead of the stock 4 .
Last edited by bluestang67; 09-29-2013 at 07:13 PM.
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04-06-2012 11:00 PM #14
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04-06-2012 11:06 PM #15
duplicate deleted
You're welcome Mike, glad it worked out for you. Roger, it's taken a few years but my inventory of excess parts has shrunk a fair bit from 1 1/2 garage stalls to about an eight by eight space. ...
1968 Plymouth Valiant 1st Gen HEMI