Very cool. Like the hammer curving video. You've been busy. Artist quite talented.
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Very cool. Like the hammer curving video. You've been busy. Artist quite talented.
Thanks guys!! Thought I was going to get a pinup girl painted on the Lennox, the only request I had was to keep it tasteful. Perhaps she felt her artistic expression was being incumbered and went this direction instead... :LOL:
:HMMM: Or perhaps she felt "Pinup Girl" and "Tasteful" were mutually exclusive! :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
Love your build. Have a friend doing a 55 Wagon as well.
More blocking, then more epoxy...
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Another hurdle in the way of running our wiring under the dash, we need to address the defrost vents for the Vintage Air unit. What they send is cheesy at best, and given they only send two vents where Chevy installed 4, we're going to go another route..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUiF-2vXe8E
The factory piece does take up quite a bit of real estate, and now interferes with the raingear wiper system and the VA heater box.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1870.JPG
So all things considered, we plan on using the original vent top portion and adapt tubing in the equation to make use of a more flexible hose arrangement. The VA has two 2" outlets at the top for defrost, so we will use a 2" tube to feed the center two vents, and 1-1/4" tubes to feed to the outer vents.
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Missed some of the details with that one, a bit more for the center vent..
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Forming our transition from 2" to 1-1/4".....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sGqSA0eKwc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIpSo-T6c4o
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As the ports from the VA point almost straight up, the 2" tubes were welded at a slight incline to remove any sharp bends in the supply hose.
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.....as a follow-up, our local artist has been working on the other side of the Lennox..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1FDtYyYGSU
and we have been working with some local hippies to explore other shop shirt options.. This was done on the yellow shop shirt so naturally that base color limits what results you will get...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2154.JPG
Both the artwork and shirt tie-dye are super cool!
Looks like an old Earl Schieb art clip. Fun shirt...
Thanks for the comments!!!
In adapting our defroster vents for the wagon, we needed to add a bead in the tubing to better retain the hose attached. The beading die we made for this purpose on the bead roller was too large to fit the 1-1/4" tube, so another tool is in order.. Our worn out Southbend was used to make the round profiles, with a step in the bottom die to act as a backstop for better consistency in bead placement.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2224.JPG
I don't have much in the form of hardened tool steel for making specialized cutters for the lathe, so I used a 3/4" square cutter from the Lennox to form the following for making the concave shape.. the male counterpart was done on the fly...
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The 4140 square stock was squared on both ends, then a relief added for our round profile to rest in.
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Our c-clamps had a VEE notch that would assist in keeping the round bits from moving, so that was used in lieu of a vise..
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The infinitely adjustable clamps worked well, the TIG was used to add a fusion weld around the perimeter (no filler rod)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2228.JPG
https://youtube.com/shorts/a3cJ9NzG-qM
After welding, the assembly is heated to a straw color (pre-blue) and dipped in our official Mickey Thompson fluid container (transmission fluid) to harden things up a bit.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_2232(1).JPG
Here are the dies in use, take note of what happens when you don't keep pressure against the backstop.... No harm no foul, a couple more passes cleans it right up...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YMJkqdMVyU
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That should help to keep the hose in place...
pretty cool how that works.
very cool. didn't realize the top die was oscillating up and down until you turned it off!
Finally back from the latest round of hanging TV's for the day job, We’ve installed three video walls since the end of December, along with other AV equipment. Some we can’t take pictures of, but we’ve included two that we could. So here's some highlights of what we installed and some of the fabrications made in the shop to help out in getting the job done....
Before, a couple of 80" displays
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After, a seamless video wall just shy of 24' long... much better suited to this classroom setting..
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Our next room gave us a multitude of challenges, the walls here are free standing and we felt they were insufficient for supporting the video wall without deflection. So we opted for an 8020 structure in front of the existing, attached to the floor and the deck above. Next challenge is to anchor the columns to the concrete above with no access due to the 60" Drywall surround encircling the ceiling tiles.. before:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_2289(1).JPG
So I came up with a diagonal bracing that would make use of hinges for allowing assembly of the column and brace within the hole we would cut into the ceiling for minimal disturbance (less drywall repairs)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...gh_ceiling.jpg
....which in reality was not as easy as it appeared in print....
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This video wall is just shy of 16' long and uses 0.9mm pixels.
Some of the fabrications made in the shop, a water fall to help support the abundance of cabling going into the equipment rack....
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This was our first time using Cyviz touch panels, which were only available as a table top version. The old touch panel was recess mounted in the wall, so we either leave the old one in place to fill a hole in the wall, fill the hole in the wall with a blank panel, or come up with a wall mount design that Cyviz sorely needs.. One guess as to the option I chose....
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Powder coating done locally by The Shop at Shorty’s.
Here's the video of installing the mount to the touch panel... Funny story, one of the tech reps that showed up from Cyviz swore this wall mount was their product... :LOL:
He was told, "no, one of my guys made it in his garage".. He didn't believe it...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNDN_mF-o8k
....and installed...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2736.jpg
So...where we had left off on the wagon, more blocking of primer, fabrication/modification of defroster vents, and wiring.. So a test fit of our fuse panel mounting plate (American Autowire) found that along with our parking brake pedal assembly location and the close proximity of the Raingear wiper motor, things were much too snug. So in looking at the room available under the dash, just to the right of the brake pedal looked promising but one of our newly formed defroster tubes interferred... This one hung down too low....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag.../IMG_2296.HEIC
And, in typical domino fashion, the fuse panel mounting plate would not work where it was not intended.
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We made a new bracket of 1/8" aluminum, and bent some mounting ears to be able to place it well above the accelerator linkage. We also designed it to use existing hardware to minimize any additional holes through the nicely painted firewall.
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Next, the interfering defrost duct was shortened to provide the needed clearance. Side note: Check out the HAZ difference between a TIG tack on tight fitting panels vs. having to add filler on a slight gap...
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Fitted before we do the final welding, this shows to leave us sufficient room...
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And now for the fun part....
While we're getting prepared for wiring installation, the instrument cluster was dug out of its box to help us see where all the wiring was going. And there it was in all it's billet glory. This will kinda clash with the ribbed stainless trim we're using for the dash insert, so let's look at adding it to our gauge cluster as well...
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Where this gauge cluster was designed with a flush fit in mind, we need to be able to hide the cut edge of the ribbed stainless. So the holes were opened up slightly where the gauge could be installed from the front, and the bezel will now hide our cut edges..
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The stainless is in a rather raw form, and to give it more pizazz, perhaps some polishing is in order... So we used some Trizact products on the DA, and ended things on the buffer...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2786.jpg
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Here's how it turned out...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlN9sreTbaE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfAiY6wfEyw
We also have some new indicator lights coming for the high beam and turn signals to get away from the tiny LED's that also scream billet.. The new lights should hopefully be here Saturday where we can get this modification wrapped up this weekend..
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Today we had a back up and punt moment. The nice chrome bezel on the gauges is far too large to fit in those corners of the instrument panel bezel from the outside. So we'll have to keep it on the backside, but that doesn't help us cover up the cut edge of the hole in the ribbed stainless..
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......so let's make some stainless "eyelets" to both hold the ribbed stainless securely to the billet panel, as well as give us a finished edge around the cut hole.. First a punch and die will be needed to press one side of our eyelet.
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and we added a 1/2 x 1/2 tang to hold the punch in the press brake...
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Back to the south bend to cut out our flange lip.. The punch was snug after the press operation, so it was used as a holding fixture for the trimming operation.
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A holesaw in the drill press started the holes for the gauges and then we used our Jigsaw with cruise control to fine tune the openings.
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A sheet of phenolic gives us a non-marring surface to pound on, the Snap-on linear stretch hammer swages the flange over and a 1/2" diameter round makes a good punch to flatten out the rest.
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Finished "eyelets"
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Still have to install the indicator lights, but since I need to pack up for the local car show tomorrow in Leonardtown, we'll finish that up this coming week.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6oKduQOqC8
.
We did a test fit of the instrument panel in the car to see what it looked like with the green backdrop...
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This stainless will be the same material used in the dash insert "band" that goes from side to side, as well as the insert for the console. Should add some pizazz to the interior... Here's the view with our Alpinetech indicator lights added....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6oKduQOqC8"
Our OEM retainers for the bottom of the curved side glass had one piece with a bracket broken off. These brackets serve as a place to screw/attach the garnish moldings.
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The broken piece was removed and the spot welds ground smooth...
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A new piece was cut out of some 19 ga steel and the Diacro press brake made short work of repeating 45* bends.
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The new part was media blasted, TIG welder used to plug weld things back together, more media blasting and some epoxy mixed up and brushed on using an acid brush.
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On to our glass installation, we had picked up some 3M strip-calk to seal the rubber to the glass.
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We found that the full width strip provided a bit too much and some oozage ensued... First is always the messy one, right?
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So we laid the following ones on the glass and cut down the middle for a more narrow strip.. More better....
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So then a person gets cocky and needs a reality check on the driver's side....
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Eh, good a stopping point as any..
Dash is Stunning, Project so incredible
Reality check... is that what we're calling this? LOL.. As always, simply stunning.
OK, long overdue for an update..
Playing some more with our dash insert, this should look good..
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We attempted different processes for folding the hemmed edge trim, but alas none gave a good consistent finish.
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So some stainless strips were dropped off at Triton metals, a local machine shop we have used before... They will get much better results, still waiting on completion.
Back to our problem child of a window, this crack occurred as I slightly pried rearward with a metal rule. Exactly where I pried.
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To limit the excess squeezed out of the seals on our next glass, we took the 3M strip-calk in its original form and sliced right down the middle..
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Here's a video showing installation of the strip-calk, and another with installation of the seal over the strip-calk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=www.youtube.com/watch?v=41FgeNHBBa0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQxR2nUTVSs
Installing window #2, we had a slight tight area and I asked Jared to push outward and that's when we had a repeat of Groundhog Day..
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So, maybe the pry the first time was not the only issue. Fast forward so we can look back, last night we did a dry fit of the garnish moldings around these windows and found that the tack strips holding the headliner were far too thick and pushed the moldings down so far that the back side would be visible through the glass. In addition, this was also pushing downward on the window and seal while we were attempting the installation. When we had installed the quarter panel previously, we used plug welds inside this window opening and some had a slight proud. Nothing that I was concerned with at the time and considering had the tack strip been the correct thickness it likely wouldn't have been an issue now. But with the headliner pushing downward, the seal was hanging up on one of the plug welds as Jared was pushing outward on the corner, which made a perfect fulcrum effect for crack #2. Since we aren't pulling a headliner out, we went ahead and cleaned up the plug welds. This meant taping off all the nice pretty paint on the outside and the interior as well..
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All of the welds cleaned up, we mixed up some SPI epoxy and used a small brush to add three coats on the bare areas. And to counter the effect of the garnish molding hanging too low, we will now need to make some one-off upper clips that are half height of the ones we just ordered (and have been waiting 4 months to arrive), in order to get the molding up and out of sight when looking through the glass. Story of my life..
Window #3!! We had length issues from the last replacement, let's check this one as well. Hooking our tape measure on the apex of the pointy end, the original ordered with the rest of the glass set shows to be 40-1/16 in length. The new replacement, like the last one (#2), was 40-5/16. So we have a 1/4" to remove.
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So we consulted my glass expert John Glenn the last time we did this, and got the rundown of the various methods we could possibly use. Since I'm more of a go slow and sneak up on the end goal, I opted for using abrasives. We used Cubitron belts on our Dynabride sander. It did a better job of taking down corners so we followed the process discussed in the next video. Then when we had reached the size needed (three hours later), a 320 grit disc on the DA gave a more polished appearance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_8DPnVPcik
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Our installation last night went in relatively painless and crack free. Now to make some upper clips..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPazuJajT10
Very nice work! I bet you are glad to have that glass in without any cracks!
Thanks Ryan, yeah, getting into my pocket on those two.
Never know what you see in the shop.. A good friend of mine has a powder coat business and has been restoring a Kent model KMX850 bmx bike. The bike was found in the woods and was brought to him for repairs, with many of the obsolete parts being sourced from other style bikes and scooters. Here is where he has it thus far..
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Once the sun had taken its toll on the seat upholstery, the foam inside became a nice sponge for all the precipitation that Mother Nature could throw at it, leaving much of the seat pan gone. So he needed a seat pan fabricated, and this is where I entered the picture..
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His major concern was that we duplicate the impaling spikes to secure the upholstery.
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I had attended an estate sale about a year ago and picked up a set of Malco notchers, not knowing what I'd ever need them for, but also knowing I couldn't do without them.
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So when I pulled these out of the tool box all fears had been abated..
We started with a piece of 19 gauge AKDQ and used Stan Fulton beading dies to add the center bead.
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A piece of 5/8 round stock on the magnetic brake then added the radius for the side bends. Some of the 5/8 round stock was also used to make some post dollies with a welded stop for use in the bench vise..
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Basic shape
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The Erco kick stretcher used on the sides and the post dollies on manipulating the radius bend helped to provide the kickup needed at the rear.
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A solid rod across the rear mounting holes gives us some critical dimensions for layout....
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For the mounting holes in the rear, we measured 9/16 from the edge to hole center as per original, and then made a two ended transfer punch that fit snugly between the sides. Once we had our rear measurement and the point aligned to the 9/16 scribe line, we tapped either side to mark the holes.
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Once drilled, a rod through these holes lets us locate the front bracket. We reused the bracket to save some time (and money) as it was still good and solid..
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Impaling spikes added
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All bracket installed and assembly gets media blasted to prep for powder coat.
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How hard was it to "break through" and created the spike/pike?
I had actually cut a couple pieces of aluminum tubing that were a snug fit over the handles. This was more a controlling factor so I didn’t have to squeeze so hard and wind up cutting all the way through. The additional leverage allowed moderation, so to speak.
I can "see" that. Hence the question, I figured you'd press/squeeze so hard and then suddenly it would "pop" right on through. Good workaround with the longer handles!Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
One expensive lesson we learned from installing a window three times, the tack strip that the owner bought was too thick for the headliner, and as a side effect cramped the glass going in. This also meant the upper window clips, which also serve to "position" the garnish molding, pushed the molding down far enough that the back side was visible through the glass.
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In order to remedy that view through the glass, we need to fabricate new clips that allow the trim to position higher on the glass. We start with a set of dies for the Lennox so we can make a run of the needed shape, and then cut them individually to size. This should give us the best consistency on size. Our first set of dies will take a folded 90* shape and form it into a "U" shape. We used the Southbend "milling machine" to provide a relief for the long side flange of the clip.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hM2p3GJ8hFc
Additional reliefs and some roloc sander action and we have the lower die ready for the shortened clip.
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Then our 3/8 end mill is brought in from the end to form a matching profile.
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A piece of 1018 is welded onto the side to give us more "meat" to make the folding ramp, and then machined to clean up the weld.
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Using the pneumatic belt sander and a cone shaped die grinder we add the ramp to the upper die and then run a profile through..
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https://www.youtube.com/shorts/W9BHwcKvH_g
Our next set of dies for the wrap around fold....
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https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0uDZveTZBzY
Clips cut to length and mounting holes drilled
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Next on the list was to install the new wiper washer nozzles on my daily, since the old ones couldn't stand the heat under the hood with a turbo. The barb fitting had broken free of the nozzle and we no longer had windshield cleaning service. Upon removal, I found that one of the barb couplings had disintegrated as well. And here we were one hour after the auto parts stores had closed. Here's a still intact sample:
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Since we had some stainless brake line left over from the wagon, lets make some lemonade...
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Back in business.. And the artist has made some progress on the Lennox....
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In your "milling machine", is that a AXA or BXA tool holder? Looks like a very large bit mounted.
Attachment 74515
With some modification at the inside top for clamping 3/4 square stock.
More absolutely amazing work Robert! That seat pan is remarkable! How do you like that hydraulic flaring tool? I have the same one. I noticed if you apply too much pressure you can crack the tubing. Have you ever had that issue?
Your washer line repair made me laugh. On our excursion a vacuum line runs along the bottom of the cowl in the plastic wiper gutter thing Ford designed. It is about 3" from the turbo. One day the hvac would only blow on defrost. I opened the hood and found the little plastic line sagged down and melted to the exhaust housing. LOL I made a metal line for it and covered it in some heat wrap. Haha
I've used it almost extensively for stainless tubing and have noticed the cone die has depressed slightly from repeated flares in same location. I think I need to make one out of 4140 OH..Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Of course you do! LOL..Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
Update on the Kent bike seat, we have a good fit and now it's off to the upholstery shop..
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Very nice, probably better than new!
So I've been rather lax on the updates as we've had a distraction here at the shop. Someone had a mishap in returning home on Memorial day (about midnight) from one of the local watering holes. Let's call him "Dale Jr"
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Seems he was coming in a bit hot in the final turn where his left tires were out in the grass in the opposite lane..
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Which, when combined with over-correction....
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Here, I guess not wanting to go a lap down, he took the nearest path back to the "track", completely ignoring pit road to his right....
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The remnants left behind suggested the drivers window broke out, likely when this gem flew out of the vehicle...
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So we've been rebuilding from that the past few weeks in spare time, pre-painting pickets to limit June/July sun exposure.....
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and we finished off here yesterday around noon...
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Still have one more coat of paint to apply, but this will hold it until cooler days or the next mishap at the track..
So, with Dale Jr's plate and phone.. were the "authorities" able to connect with them?
At least to pay restitution! Lumber & Paint is no longer inexpensive.. not to mention the labor.
Enquiring minds need to know... well.... me and Cosmo anyway!
Police were on scene and left incident report with all pertinent info. His insurance is covering repairs
Glad to hear it. Some things should be made right every once in awhile. 8-)
With fence repair duties out of the way we can get back to some progress on the wagon. Finally got the correct clips for the beltline molding...
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We had been attempting to polish up some of the stainless trim but always seems to find 67 years worth of scratches difficult to remove. So we opted to give Trizact a try, starting with 1500, then 3000, 5000, and finally 8000.. The edge of the 3000 and up seemed to bear the brunt of the polishing duties, and wore off much sooner than the center. In an effort to get more life out of the trizact pads, we purchased a 5" Dynabrade where we could cut the outer (worn) portion off the pads and continue to use.. The Trizact did well on the stainless, a much easier task at the polishing stage...
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We also have been working on the wiring, and getting it run inside some protective loom. To keep things tidy and knot free, we opted for some heat shrink tubing spaced at regular intervals.. Where I've seen electrical tape used in similar situations, the tape seems to turn into a sticky mess in short order so we'll give this a try. Jared has some re-wiring to do on his 39 coupe so this is good practice (learning curve) for him.. This section is from the fuse box to the rear of the body, the tan wire pulled out is for the fuel sending unit.
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These clips are just about the right size for this harness "portion", we got them to run along the frame rail behind the rear axle, but found use for them in a couple other locations. Corvette part.
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Here Jared made a protective channel where the wire passes under the rear seat frame.
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That trim looks beautiful. Very nice work on the wiring too.
Top notch!
You always amaze with craftmanship and knowhow
