I'm glad it helped you Whip, makes it all worthwhile :cool:
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I got the lock in last night, space was pretty tight. I also got the handle actuator sorted also
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There is a plate that ties the lock into the frame which the nuts are welded to, forgot take a pic.
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More progress, nearly there. I splashed some black epoxy on the inner last night to tidy it up and just fitted it up after tea, next job is to fit the striker on the door jamb and mount the outer door skin & outer handle.
Someone mentioned the raised door lock, they suggested it might catch the door jamb when opened :o It won't because its only raised 5/16" and the jamb has 1/2" of clearance :D
Hopefully tomorrow night the tinted acrylic will be here so I can fit the proper window :cool:
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I can now get on with the next job fitting the outer handles as the Willys repro handles I ordered turned up today, They are specially made for glass bodys as the original Willys handle fits with a clip arrangement that doesn't work on glass bodys. Also my tinted acrylic showed up so need to cut that to shape also.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps0bvozfn4.jpg
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Last night saw the handles fitted, they operate stainless steel bicycle cables.
First thing to sort was the handle pad on the doors, the doors have the 1940 round pad but the handles are only available 41 shape so I had to build up the pad with GRP chopped paste.
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Next I prepped the inside for the strengthening plate I had planned, I personally wouldn't fit the handle without a plate behind. The plate is 16swg aluminium, I spun up a piece to hold the outer cable and a bit more 1/8" plate for a riser, I did it aluminium for no other reason other than I don't weld much aluminium and fancied a change.
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Next I needed a actuating lever to fit the 5/16" square bar on the handle, this was made in a bit of 3/8" plate and is secured to the square by a grubscrew.
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Here its all assembled and glassed into place. I bonded in a couple of bits of aluminium tube for the cable to run through so it don't rub against the window.
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Veery cool Steve but you have a problem..... those handles haven't got the " old car sag " that make them look down all the time. See there is another example of your brilliance, fibreglassing those lttle support tubes to hold the cable from floating around inside the door creating issues down the track. I bow down to you oh Master Car Builder/ Teacher.;);)
Steve, so much great work here. Thanks for taking the time to continuely show your work. I really liked the trick to form that bulge in the door. What brand window kits are those? They look close to a window regulator in freightliner FLD120 semi's. Keep up that great work!
Its been a lovely day for working outside, sun shining and warm, working in T shirt & shorts, wonder how much longer it will last ??? Anyway I got the door inner back on its hinges and set about getting the door skin lined up, fit was pretty good so with one hand holding the skin in place I drilled a few small holes for screws to temporally hold it in place until its time to bond them together, looks pretty good, little bit of making good but thats no problem, will gap it up once bonded.
I also got some rear tyres 31x 10.5 x 15 so popped my rear wheels on.
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As always nice progress Steve. I also apreciate the details of the fiberglass work your doing!
Those doors have come up nice Steve..Fiberglass.... hmmm.... the stuff we do,that so many other people hate..:LOL: Love the details in your inner doors,too.. Nice.. :cool:
yup,Steve.. It's a very interesting product.. The things you can do with it.. A little bit of thought and away ya go.. A couple of years ago,I had a Kenworth front delivered to me in two pieces,,and a third piece fell off while I was grinding up the inside.. Ya know,,I had that ol' bitch all stitched up in a few days,,even managed to line up the rips in the paint back to where it all began.. hehe.. I have a box of ugly little patches of plastic,and aluminum which i use to make shapes with,and to screw things together to form whatever I need,in the repair of this stuff.. It's awesome.. carry on mate..It's lookin good.. :cool::cool:
That little truck is looking sweet Steve. I always wondered if the ez wiring window kits were worth a darn. They must be good if you sell and install them.
Thought I would have a break from GRP for a few days so looked at the rear of the chassis, It dips downward slightly which wasn't making fitting my fuel tank easy, also as I want a towbar it wasnt that strong so I decided to chop it off and replace with some nice sturdy 3" x 1.5" x 1/8" box section.
While I was making the U section on the bench I incorporated the towbar, Its a receiver type so it can be removed.
Sue was out shopping so had to tig weld it myself, it ain't that hard really
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Once the box was welded a 2" hole was bored in the centre to accept a piece of 2" x 1/4" wall CDS tube, this tube comes up at 1.5" ID so before welding in place it was bored out slightly to 1.630 to accept 1.625" CDS roll cage tube, this will be the removable section and will be swan neck shape to get the ball height down a bit. A stainless steel bolt gave up its life to become a securing pin after a short time in the lathe
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I added some braces and gave it a quick squirt of primer. Hopefully weld it in tomorrow night.
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Got the new rear chassis section in, first time i've used my mig for over a year !!!
This was the offending part, out with my fave tool Mr 9" grinder , it never stood a chance :LOL:
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Next I got my gas tank out and measured up for it, I got lucky with this tank as my mate Gary Layton originally ordered it but the dimensions were wrong for his project so Summit resent the correct tank, they didn't want it back as shipping was too dear so they said keep it , Oh look it seems to be the perfect fit in the Willys truck :cool::LOL:
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I welded in some struts to make the towbar even stronger and these also will mount the tank.
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Great work and nice score on that cell!
Excellent catch on the fuel tank Steve. Can you take a photo of the Tow Hitch from the rear please from down level as I am thinking along the same lines for making one for my T but I have two problems with my idea, one, I don't really want it to be visible when not in use and two, I think our laws have stopped us making our own tow bars as they have to be rated etc. so may have to have a tow bar manufacture make it with their rating stamped on it.
Not much last night as it suddenly got freezing but I did get to make a mount for my Carter fuel pump and pre filter, I mounted them on a plate as the plate is in turn mounted on 4 x Mini exhaust rubbers, yes the pump does have rubber mounts but a bit more don't hurt.
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Wanted to get the tank mounted up and needed some 30mm aluminium angle, nothing on my shelf so popped over to my mate Garys who had some spare, whilst there the angle was welded to the tank, my tig will do aluminium but the Miller Dynasty Gary has is the dogs doo dahs for welding aluminium.
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Today I got it mounted, 3 x 5/16" bolts each side is just right
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Next job was a bit of one step forward and two back as I had already fixed the bed floor in place but I was never happy with how high it was, I wanted it lower, So I decided to reduce the height of the kickup, out with Mr Angle grinder and a few minutes later a piece of 1/4" plate was welded in, The original frame here is 2 pieces of 1/8" where the 2 C's meet.
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I then made up a 2" x 1" x 18swg box ring frame which is welded to returns on the bedsides.
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Much better now and it gives me more clearance on the tank.
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Great work and those aluminum welds look awesome!
I reckon all gassers should have a weight bar, so lets make one of them !!! A piece of 3" stainless tube was cut at 56" long and a 2.5" hole bored in the centre, next a piece of 2.5" tube was welded in and the edges smoothed. This is for the towbar to fit through.
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Next we needed some brackets to mount it, wanted 5/16" or 3/8" stainless but the scrap bin was bare but I did find some 3/8" aluminium plate
I bored a 3" hole in it and shaped it up/
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Got it mounted and centered up, just need to make some end caps for it and then can polish it.
Oh tube is held in the brackets by some hidden grub screws.
The piece of tube sticking out is simulating the removable tow bar, thats a job for later.
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Very nice work! That turned out pretty slick!
One of those days today where don't seem to get much progress !!! Plus short day due to temperature not getting over 5c today, anyway the 30mm x 5mm stainless bar I ordered arrived so I got the bed strips sorted, Willys had steel bed floors if I remember right but I wanted a rubber floor for hard wearing.
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The rear strip needed to be angle really as I wanted it to cap off the end of the ply, I knew this was gonna try and bow so clamped it down to the bench welded it and left it to cool, u clamped it after a few hours and the barstard was like a boomerang !!! Spent the next 2 hours getting it straight again !!!
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It only did that to test your stress levels Steve to see if you reached for a cigarette as I believe you are trying to give up smokin'. If that is true I wish you all the best as I have been there and done that and it isn't easy. The truck is progress well though evn with the cold temps. My Brother lives up in Middlesborough and is expecting snow tonight that is blowing down from the north.
Managed to sort a little problem I had with the fuel tank filler, I mounted the tank as high as I dared which left only 2" between the bed, floor and the tank,
I didn't want to access the tank through the floor as it never looks right, anyway I decided to use 1.5" stainless tube,
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I hole sawed a 1.75" hole through the bed subframe sides for the filler to run through and welded in a sleeve.
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first problem was the bend into the tank, I removed the plastic filler but kept the ring of bolts.
Had a look in the scrap bin but no 6" round aluminium bar, managed to use a jig I had made ages ago, hope I don't need it again.
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Next up I machined the piece of aluminium bar into this, I dropped the inner mounting flange so I could still use a mandrel bend.
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Next up was a stainless flange for the bend to weld too, also made a gasket for this.
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A few bits of straight and half a bend got me over to the hole I had made previously in the bed subframe.
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Next was the outer filler tube it self, I found an old filler cap on my shelf but it was for 2" tube so first job was to make up an adapter, only had a lump of steel so thats what its made of.
A bit more straight bits and a 90 degree bend shaved to 75 degrees and it was done.
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It looked a bit bare on the outside so I turned up a finisher that looks like its rivetted in place, its actually bolted.
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I love the way your brain works, Steve, quickly getting to the "how can I make this work" point and solving what seem to be insurmountable problems bit by bit. Good on ya', and hoping you & Sue enjoy a Merry Christmas, too! Thanks so much for posting details.
SWEET . Love the way you add those million little exceptional details to each project!
That was some great work executing the filler, I really like it a lot! I'm so jealous of your pieces you make with your lathe. :LOL:
Last night I started to make up the bed skirt panels (not sure of the correct name) I had started to make a rolled rear pan last week but once finished I thought it didn't look right as the bed is very squared off looking so that was consigned to the scrap bin
Anyway popped back to my mate Brians engineering shop and bent up some more 16swg sheet, only had black left but once blasted it will be fine, dims are 5" with 1.125" returns. The wheel end has a 60 degree slash cut and the corner bend I did in my shop.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psow1xxpbd.jpg
All the holes are slotted to make it easy to fit and allow some adjustment.
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I decided to make it in 2 pieces as its much easier, heres the offside in place.
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Heres the finished job with finisher in place, finisher will be held in place by rivet bolts same as filler trim.
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