I picked it up complete with a 4 x 2 intake for £300 (about $450)
I've inly done a little homework so far but it looks like I can use a BBC crank to give 430+ cubes :3dSMILE:
Sweet! And coming from the Langley shop, you'll no doubt build something fabulous to go with the 409!(430):):cool::D:3dSMILE:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKKP_cZuk54
I have intake and heads for a 409 I'd have to really look to see if there's any other parts out there.
When mocking up at the weekend I slipped the bed into place to get an idea where my rear lights wanted to be so last night I hacked out the brackets in some 1/4" stainless plate.
Firstly I made a template, wanted them to mirror the shape of the hinge brackets but mount from the other side of the stake bed pockets.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps69wauz2z.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pst58fptyp.jpg
The lights have angled mounting on them and I needed a slight bend in the mounting area of the plate, just bending gave too large a radius so I partially slit it with a cutting disc and then bent it and welded it up, this gave a nice tight bend.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pskulhqt4r.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9bt1gow6.jpg
Just need a polish and they will be done, simple but effective.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps1rkq8jwf.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps5kxgepsk.jpg
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I like that one step closer
Quote...The lights have angled mounting on them and I needed a slight bend in the mounting area of the plate, just bending gave too large a radius so I partially slit it with a cutting disc and then bent it and welded it up, this gave a nice tight bend.
Steve
I love your attention to detail, that's just one of the details that separates the Pros from us amateurs. ;):3dSMILE:
Jack.
Very nice work. I like how you say hack but it comes out like candy. Haha Nice work on your fence too. The cab will look much different with that new fire wall grafted into it.
Gomez popped in this afternoon to help out with the first part of the body, I sometimes wish I had been born an octopus as trying to get things true needed several hands :LOL:
We placed the cowl section in the correct place and took lots & lots of measurements, we then transferred these to a sheet of 1/2" plywood, next we cut the shape into it and then slowly sanded it to shape. Just a few screws holding it the moment until I glass the floor in for good.
I know it don't look much but your looking at 4 hours work here :eek:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psqyzd1k3y.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps6bg4vokt.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psfvbdqzld.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psfaiqz9eu.jpg
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It's looking better already. That measuring twice before cutting always takes more time. But it is sure better than doing it over.
Yep the little things often take a ton of time for what someone will discount as not being an integral part of the build! At most shows I've been to, most people are fixated on the chrome, billet and paint job, nobody seems to realize what it took to get to the point of adding the final touches!
Scratching around for something to do last night so thought I would fit the radiator, The rad is a 32 ford aluminium jobbie so most of the brackets had to go and be replaced by something more suitable, made them up in 1/8" aluminium and welded them in place, the upper mount I reshaped and used.
Bottom mounts are a set of stainless 32 Ford mounts.
The bars are 3/8" thick wall stainless tube with 5/16" rose joints screwed into them.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pspgp5knir.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9q1o5fut.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdpufmboh.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps5vwlzzcq.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pslk4nxnub.jpg
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Your saying the spring and bolt are stainless RIGHT. the bracket would be aluminum?? As I'm not familiar with early ford stuff. Looks great
That turned out really nice!
Yes indeed, another nice detail that thousands of critics will miss, but that we here really appreciate! :)
Steve,
A question in my mind. How did you protect the core from the heat of welding the tabs, or is there no concern in that area on the tank? I've been putting off a mod on my upper radiator fill connection (I tilted the radiator back about 20 degrees, making the fill a slow process) for fear of messing up the core at the top.
No problem on an aluminium rad Roger as its of tig welded construction and I just tig welded the new brackets to the sides which do not contact the core, however if yours is a brass/copper construction you have to be careful as you can easily melt the solder joints, solder melts at a much lower temp than aluminium.
But having said that I often tig weld brackets to ordinary rads without any problems as the have steel sides
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Bit of a wasted day today as been stuck on M25 most of the day, thought I would do a quick run to the airport to pick peoples parts up
Did get a bit done though, I trimmed off the top of the new firewall and trimmed the corresponding area on the cab, got them all lined up and secured with bits of aluminium sheet & self tappers.
There is a very good reason for making the cut here as the swage line below the windscreen is different on a 41/42 and this cab is a 40.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pshc7fitbw.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psaenitzm2.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdxicd6mv.jpg
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Good to know. Mine's a PRC aluminum radiator with the filler neck welded to the top tank. When I was talking to PRC about welding on a support bracket to the very top they cautioned about keeping the heat away from the core, but it sounds like they were being overly cautious or simply limiting their liability.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
You are moving right along it looks like a nice match
I love trucks I think they are the coolest mode of transportation
Before I can start glassing the cab sections together I needed some rear cab mounts (the front ones are the original mounts which fell just right)
Made these from some 4" x 2" x 1/8" box section, I originally made them like my coupe ones with an angle but decided I had done that way before so decided to put some shape into them, the top plates have 4 holes as this is where my cage will bolt in.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pscwhswelh.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psnyfze9df.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psls0axkwx.jpg
Heres some pics for the welding perverts amongst us :LOL:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psoqnxndwg.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psvkulmd6k.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psrcnkz7jm.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psn6fcab7b.jpg
Oh and I polished my rear lamp brackets so heres some pics for the shiny perverts amongst us :LOL:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps1jqlvyup.jpg
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Hell, I haven't won Lotto yet but if I did I would be posting the Bucket over to you Steve so that you could replace most of my shitty chrome bitz with highly polished stainless bitz. I am one of those Shiny Perverts and don't mind polishing but get depressed when I look at the chrome stuff on the Bucket going rusty already. It is a damn nuisance living on a small island nation surrounded by salt water and air. Oh, just proof reading this and as I don't gamble, I think you are safe with your work load at the moment Steve so you just keep us upto date with your awesome built.
I sure dig your welding skills sir. I'm a shiny and weld enjoying geek too!
Now I had the rad mounted I decided to fit a fan, was gonna use a flex fan but went with a thermostatically controlled electric for reliability.
I decided to make a fan shroud for it in aluminium sheet and mount the shroud 1.5" off the rad so the fan would pull from the whole core, made up the shroud and it looked a bit boring so add some stiffening plates to make it slightly more interesting.
Small round tapped bosses were welded to the sides for the shroud to bolt to.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdreoqqje.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psll9oj3ty.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pspe56tmw4.jpg
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Looks like you'll be pulling all the air you can with that. Nice fab work
Definitely a nice touch with the stiffners! Nice work.
Finished the install of the trans cooler tonight.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pssdivkffy.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psuousmh7w.jpg
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Today has mostly been taken up doing a few minor changes on my Coupe but I did get the radiator back in place and bolted the front panels together.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psy8rdev7r.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pscho1p7bt.jpg
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Yesterday was another day of measuring and more measuring but made good progress, my pal Gomez came over to hold the end of the tape which helped no end.
We made up a flat surface to sit the body on which helped stabilize everything, I'm not sure of whether this body has ever been an actual car or not because we found some very odd things with it First thing we found was all though the door inners sort of fitted the openings they were an odd shape, cut some bits out to correct this and will reglass them the right shape later. the inners are actually too short width ways but I can fix that quite easily.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps3chgesg3.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psznaiigcn.jpg
The out door skins had us scratching our heads for a while as they were both way too long for the openings even though the body & doors had hinges on them Luckily I had the dimensions from a steel truck and when checked we found the door skins were way out !!!, We also found one door was 1.5" longer than the other So out with the cutting wheel and they were sliced down to the correct size You can see in the second pic there are no cutouts for the hinges and the front of the door is clearly too long, I can only assume someone started this but never finished it.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pste4wvqf7.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps62ykypfn.jpg
After a bit more measuring and trimming we got them fitting correctly
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps4bksqaxd.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psq8huunzn.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pspkdv0ogo.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psmxx9dhdo.jpg
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Ah yes, more of that fine fitting fiberglass!!! Oh well, easy to fix anyway. Good progress, Steve! Always liked the looks of the Willys cabs, IMO second only to a Hudson pickup!
Well a little bit of progress, started glassing the various pieces together, most of the glasswork is underneath but I had to get it stuck together solidly to turn the shell over.
First the sills were attached to the rear of the body, I guess this is glassfibre porn to someone out there :LOL:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psmwzxpzq8.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pshvxya89p.jpg
Then in between the bits of aluminium sheet was glassed to hold it together while the aluminium was removed. Then it was glassed up fully.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pslaayadqb.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pswulnxh05.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9dq7p8rf.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psno7lpmcb.jpg
The lower cab rear corners had been hacked about quite badly so these had to be repaired before the flloor went in.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psmqlm9vli.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psmsnrpnbm.jpg
The floor was then bolted back in and glassed at the rear & front, next job is to glass the flloor to the sills and then turn the body over for the underneath to be done.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psyj2gwq0h.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pseyjv0a0k.jpg
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Great work and that is really good you were able to get the doors fitting nicely! I like fiberglass work but it's still nerv racking hoping the mixture is just right. :LOL:
Well got to a point where I needed an extra pair of hands so Allan (53pop) popped over to lend a hand, I needed the body upside down to glass in the floor and its getting heavier and awkward to move around.
First job was to glass in the rear of the floor, I had had to cut the floor into 2 halves to get it in so the joint had to be fixed, while there we bonded in 2 short pieces of 1/2" square tube as strengtheners.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psrifawcqe.jpg
Next up was the front section of the floor & the sides
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psp5csdbzz.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psr3ngw3oh.jpg
Next up was the cowl joint which came out real nice.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psuvkjjnfr.jpg
Had to alter part of the rear lower panel, I had the measurements from a stock pickup and I checked the rear panel and found out the lower cut out that fits over the frame was 1.25" to high in the panel, so I cut it out and moved it down to the correct place, the rear panel needed repairing anyway so no big deal, the pics tell the story.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psluyspy92.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psxybimubs.jpg
This meant the last 4" of the floor needed to be angled very slightly so some more cutting was needed.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psqhh8zpcm.jpg
Dropped the body back on the frame for a looksee and it now fits much better so can glass up to finish it.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps7gozgjqz.jpg
While the body was back on we loosely held the frontend in place for a looksee, the front is slightly high at the front by about 2 or 3" but you get the idea
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psz0xnxvil.jpg
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Looking very nice! When glassing to the plywood, do you just rough up the wood like you would other fiberglass to allow it to bond? Or do you have any other steps to help make sure the fiberglass bonds to the wood? Great work!