Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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Originally Posted by Whiplash23T

if this site isn't improved soon as I now find the HAMB site a heel of alot easy to use etc and without the issues here.

Umm...

I haven't been near the HAMB site for literally years because of the issues on it; and the pure vicious bloody-mindedness of some.
So I logged back in to see if it has changed.
And as far as I can see...no.

This is a great site here; and I don't want to leave.

No sir.

You could always try NZHRM...

(Sorry to hi-jack the thread...won't do it again...)

Originally Posted by Whiplash23T

Well I'm running out of patience with this site too as I wrote a reply to Chopped top MK11 thread and got nothing but trouble so I will try again here.
Yes Steve I see you have cut the hole in the bonnet but what I was concerned about was the clearance of the air intake tubes under the hood scoop. To me it looked awfully close.
Sadly I just might have to follow the Dave's if this site isn't improved soon as I now find the HAMB site a heel of alot easy to use etc and without the issues here.

Whip its tight on clearance but it does fit, just !!! Got about 1/2" of clearance on the top of the scoop.

Unfortunately the Hamb has changed big time !!! I often feel like my builds are no longer wanted there, Ryan did the big update and in my opinion lost some of the buddy feel to the site, A lot of very talented people left after the change which was a travesty.
As for this site I like the people but it has certain issues that get to be very annoying after a while, a recent one for me is I leave this page open on my PC but when i hit refresh it comes up with "token expired" and then I have to go to my login page and find the thread again.
I have commented on certain issues before which seems to have fell on deaf ears, just my opinion guys.

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Wow! so that makes your Mum a Great Great Grand.
Congratulations to all of you!

Coming to the end of most of the machining now, just the snout drive left, I had previously made up all the components and just had the keyway to broach into the drive flange and shaft. Popped into see my mate Brian as he has all the broaching tooling, I took a pic of the setup and a short video of the action, this is the old school way to put keyways in, not sure how its done these days.
Basically a mandrel with a slot is inserted into the flange and then a tapered rack with cutting edges is pushed through by a power press, this removes about 60 thou each pass, then a thin spacer is inserted behind the rack which on the next pass cuts the groove deeper and so on until its the required depth is achieved.

I did take a video but this one explains the process better

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRbOux9NfeU











The shaft keyway is much easier to do and is milled in on a vertical Mill, I chose 1/4" key basically as I already had some 1/4" key steel.










Although i'm using a sealed bearing I felt it needed an oil seal just incase any oil wicked through the bearing/shaft joint so a seal was pressed in place, I had already cut a circlip groove. the key was raduised at one end to fit the keyway perfectly.








Here its all assembled and ready to fit. The mounting holes were originally bored for socket cap screws so I counter bored them to accept 12 point ARP bolts.









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Thought I had finished all the machining but completely forgot to strengthen the bearing housings and triple pin the rotors, The rotors are easy, first I drilled 1/4" holes either side of the stock pin on the other 2 surfaces, only the drive end gets pinned as the other end is under no stress, then the tapered pins are coated in Loctite and pressed into place slightly below the surface.



Stock pinned




Uprated








The bearing housings are quite weak in stock format, it don't take a trained eye to see why !!! Why on earth they never made the housing a bit beefier is beyond me !!!
Anyway the solution was to clock the inner housing surface on a face plate and then just kiss the 3 high spots so they were all on the same pitch circle, next a piece of tube was looked for, turned out to be the same dimensions as the axle tube on a truck 9" axle , as we narrow lots of these a quick scour in the scrap bin and an offcut was found. This was parted off to give 4 rings 3/8" wide by 1/4" wall thickness, these were then bored out to fit snugly and pressed into place. Only the front bearings really need doing but I did them all anyway.
The new bearings, seals & gaskets arrived today so next is reassembly.



Stock






Modified



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Nice quiet day today, no callers or phone calls, bliss !!! cracked on and got the dash installed, unfortunatly there is a bit of making good to do around the pillars because the butcher that had it before has hacked out lumps of the pillars, I will sort it later but its so unnecessary !!!














Next I decided to fit the Lokar 16" shifter & handbrake, all went well after a few minor tweaks, the rear cooler outlet needs changing for a 90 degree fitting.










Next I stuck an old bit of foam in for a trial check of the seat position,its a little tight for me but ok and absolutely perfect for Sue who might race it in the Gasser Circus, should be good for 12's I reckon





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Wow Steve, the truck is looking sweet! Great machine work on your blower. That is so cool to be able to do all that in your work space.

Last few mods to the blower before it all goes back together, The magnesium front cover I had didn't quite seal in 2 of the corners so had to fix it. Made up 2 small inserts in 3/8" plate and prepped them to be welded in place, i don't have a WP26 tig torch at the moment so off to my mate Garys to use his.
Once welded it was draw filed flat.

















Popped into my mate Brians shop and the crank pulley keyway was broached.








Unfortunately I had a slight change of plan in the carb department, Did my sums and no matter how much I modified the 94's I couldn't get them to flow more than 400cfm and this motor ideally needs 550cfm, so had to bite the bullet and change to a 600cfm 4 barrel carb, this meant changing the carb plate, Ben at Dashman whittled up this one for me, I then topped it off with a Edelbrock Enforcer 600cfm in black powdercoat.







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Very nice. How's your weather been down there?

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Very nice. How's your weather been down there?

It's been very windy which increases the coldness but still getting on though.

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Now that is a shame Steve as the triples on top of the blower had " That Certain Look " which sadly a 4 barrel lacks I think. There is a guy here in Auckland NZ running a big block Ponty witha 671 blower featuring the 6x 97 carbie looking fuel injection so he has that look plus the car runs real good and reliable. That is in a '36 Chevy Sedan with no bonnet. Sorry I don't have a photo of it.

Originally Posted by Whiplash23T

Now that is a shame Steve as the triples on top of the blower had " That Certain Look " which sadly a 4 barrel lacks I think. There is a guy here in Auckland NZ running a big block Ponty witha 671 blower featuring the 6x 97 carbie looking fuel injection so he has that look plus the car runs real good and reliable. That is in a '36 Chevy Sedan with no bonnet. Sorry I don't have a photo of it.

Yeah it is a shame Whip, I liked the look best but I have a 4/71 and only dual carbs as not enough room for triple setup, If I could of got triples on there I wouldn't need to change to the 600 4 barrel.

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Its been a bit hectic business wise the last week so not much done, parts side of things has really took off and not enough hours in the day to do 2 jobs
Anyways I was fitting a relief valve into the blower front cover and Sue came around for a look and said wheres the heater going ??? I said "gassers don't have heaters" !!! Anyway I will get onto to the heater fitting in a moment

The relief valve had a 7/16" UNC thread and of course the front cover hole was 16mm typical, nothing ever just bolts on !!! I turned up an adaptor out of a bit of hexagon brass left over from the brake fittings










Next the heater, some of you will know that I have a certain passion for Vintage auto heaters and have amassed a bit of a collection I had one in particular that I liked but had never found a project for it, its a 1948 Firestone accessory heater, I had started to restore this about 5 or 6 years ago so it had already been blasted and had some black epoxy primer splashed on it and the 2 doors re chromed and the matrix had been pressure checked, even nearly 70 years old the matrix was still perfect. I had binned the 6 volt fan ages ago so first thing was to arrange one of them, I found a 7" fan on ebay cheap so ordered it up.








The door knobs were long gone so I looked for some replacements, I had 2 spare dash switches left over from the dash so they donated their knobs which were bolted to the doors, matches up nicely with the dash now










Heres the nice condition matrix, this got a spray with a satin black rattle can.








The casing was fitted with rivnuts to aid reassembly and tabs made to locate the shortened heater outlet tubes., also 2 rings were soldered on the ends of the tubes to stop the hoses from popping off.












Next job was to make up some brackets to attach it to the firewall, made these out of some 1/8" aluminium angle I had laying about.














Here it is all bolted together, I will paint it body colour at the painting stage.







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That is a really cool looking heater!

Ditto x2