Nope it's a Lokar Nostalgia shifter, sorry for the confusion, mine is not one of the models you have to cut off!
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Nope it's a Lokar Nostalgia shifter, sorry for the confusion, mine is not one of the models you have to cut off!
Steve, the instructions on how to set up the shifter relative to the detents are pretty clear. Not sure why you would be having problems with the tranny not being solid in each gear position. The only reason you would have to cut off the OEM shift lever is if someone welded it on in the past - there's not one type that you cut off, and another that you don't. The point is that you've gotta have the LOKAR shift lever to match up with the LOKAR shifter lever, and then I found that it's critical to follow their direction regarding which side of the two levers the Heim joints ride on. If you try to fit them a different way it doesn't work so good.... Like it says in the lead in paragraph of the instructions, "Read the instructions all the way through before you attempt to install the shifter components." Hope you get it sorted.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Today was the day to attack the steering. It took a bit of "messing", but I finally decided on a mounting point for the mid-point support bearing and it worked out OK. The shaft on the steering rack comes out at a less than ideal angle up and towards the frame rail, almost right at the motor mount support. Here's the two lower u-joints...
Attachment 63243
and the tie to the column u-joint.
Attachment 63244
The mid-point support hangs off of the motor mount plate, and the center u-joint is right at 2" from the header at the closest point.
Attachment 63245
The middle joint is running right at the limit for angle, but it's smooth, no bind so it's good to go.
Attachment 63246
Had to grind a bit of a relief in the motor mount support, but not enough to compromise the support. Now I didn't calculate the strength of the remaining cross section on that 45 degree gusset, and if pressed I can easily weld on pieces of flat stock above the C-notch to beef up the metal, but I don't see that it's gonna be necessary. ;)
Attachment 63247
Trying to get everything done that needs body to frame reference needs, then the plan is to pull the body and finish the firewall where it was cut to clear the bellhousing, run the exhaust, install the gas tank and fuel lines, and get ready to re-paint the chassis body color vs black. I'm going to leave the differential and ladder bars black, since I'm confident that the paint is right on them (I did it).
Onward, small steps.
Thanks Roger, I haven't had my truck home since last July, but when it gets here I can reply with more info. I believe when I read the instructions it said you mioght have to cut linkage if it interfered with the new connection. In my case it did not. I will update you once I get the truck back. HopefullyQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
next week as the case may be!
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As I said in the post above,Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
but thanks for your concern.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I guess that means it's about 35 degrees from a straight line. EXCUSE ME for not reading more carefully.
To tell you the truth I haven't put a protractor on it, as the "ears" of the joint are clearing the "base" of the other side by almost 1/8" and it turns smooth as silk. I have a double u-joint still in the package, but I chose not to use it as I didn't want to mess with a second support. If pressed I can shorten the front shaft up to an inch, lengthen the rear shaft a corresponding about and decrease the angle, but it would put the center of the u-joint very close to the header. I like it the way it is better.Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
Today's been spent messin' more than getting anything much done. I was troubled that while one side of the hood fits nice at the cowl the driver's side seemed to have too much gap at the corner. Decided to try something, and put a 3/16" shim at the front body bolt and a 1/8" shim at the next one back, and snugged it back down. It worked! Fit is much better at the corner, and a bonus, it tightened up the gap at the top back on the door just a bit, too. Bonus! The beauty of the roadster is that they're more "loose" on gaps and movement, but I like this fit lots better.
Continuing to work down the list of stuff I want/need to get done before pulling the body off. My hope is to pull the body one more time, finish all chassis works & paint the chassis, and then paint the body on the stand before dropping it back on the chassis for the last time. At least that's what I'm thinking today....
Just because you care so much I dug out a protractor and measured the center u-joint, which is greater than 30, but less than 35 degrees, somewhere in the range of 33 degrees as best I can tell. You can rest easy tonight, and not toss & turn wondering if I've exceeded the allowables on the steering u-joint. :rolleyes:;):LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
Seriously, questioning an item of potential safety is never an issue in my mind. A home built car can be a death trap if not done right, so YOU"RE EXCUSED! :):LOL:
I'll bet it was just eating you up! :LOL::LOL::rolleyes::rolleyes::LOL::LOL:
Good job on the body fit too.. nice when a "easy" fix comes along.. :3dSMILE:
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Dave, not trying to be a smart ass here, but I think (though admittedly not exactly sure where you're coming from on the 60 degree thing) you're fixated on a static perspective. As a matter of math, take 60 from 90 (which would be the two shafts, one absolute vertical the other absolute horizontal) and you're left with 30. Said another way, that picture is deceptive. The card probably is accurate at having a 30 degree edge, but imagine the lower shaft as a continued straight line, then flip that card to where the edge under the guys thumb is on that imaginary extended line and visualize how that 30 degree angle lines up against that upper, angled shaft. Or said another way he's measuring on the wrong side of the angled shaft. Eyeballing it I'd say he's slightly under 30 degrees, so is within spec for the deflection of the joint. Said yet another way, if the joint is laid flat, you should stay within the 30 degrees (in this example) at lifting of one end.
As the steering feedback forces ( return to centered/straight) after a turn---an u joint at or near its limits can/maybe/will have an adverse effect (might be drastic on manule steering) Excuse the mud/bullshit
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I won't belabor the point more except to point out that the card above marked 60 is actually greater than 90.............
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Well Dave, you need another edit because it's the card on the LEFT that matches with the one in the photo, and all of the cards are a bit off because Borgeson says the maximum angle is 35 degrees, not 30, but what's five degrees between friends....;)Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
Also, for what it's worth, according to the guy in customer service at Borgeson, as long as you install the steering universals at or less than the maximum 35 degrees (70 degrees for a double) there is no concern with added friction in turning or return to center. Borgeson has no concern with an installation that has every u-joint at 35 degrees or less. As I said earlier, I'm not concerned at all with the angle of my center joint, and I have no concerns with it operating as intended at nominal 33 degrees.
Angles can be deceiving when viewed small, a 30° angle projected out can be steeper than you thing it is (driving a mountain road will prove that). My point is simply taken the distance from the steering wheel to the joint, you'll quickly see any steeper angle and the steering wheel could be out of the roof line.
Attachment 63257
Roger, If I remember correctly along about 1999-2000 Borgeson switched their u-joints slightly so they can be run at 35 degrees, they use to be 30 degrees as my '32 has the old style 30 degree joints and my 37 has the new style joints. The old style used a stainless button head screw to retain the shafts and now they are staked (I believe that's correct and not vice versa) they did this when Flaming Rivers came out and dropped the cost quite a bit, I remember as they came out right after I paid the higher costs for less angle joints, kind like my luck runs most of the time! Old literature has the old angle listed and not the new I think. Best of luck and keep up the good work! MatthyjQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Roger, If I remember correctly along about 1999-2000 Borgeson switched their u-joints slightly so they can be run at 35 degrees, they use to be 30 degrees as my '32 has the old style 30 degree joints and my 37 has the new style joints. The old style used a stainless button head screw to retain the shafts and now they are staked (I believe that's correct and not vice versa) they did this when Flaming Rivers came out and dropped the cost quite a bit, I remember as they came out right after I paid the higher costs for less angle joints, kind like my luck runs most of the time! Old literature has the old angle listed and not the new I think. Best of luck and keep up the good work! MatthyjQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Yeah Matthyj, My luck generally runs the same as yours, buying what I want/need and then right after finding "the deal". Like buying a double-u, having it in the stash while fussing with the layout for the last six months, and then finding the detail that they only accept returns within 90 days for anything other than warranty claims.... Oh well, someone will need a SS 3/4 DDx3/4DD u-joint at some point, right, and then they'll get "the deal".
Finally got some tires mounted on the wheels Cragar sent for their calendar contest, and stuck them on the '32 roadster. The only thing missing is a set of 50th Anniversary Center Caps to top them off just right, linking to the 2015 Award!! Thanks, Cragar Wheel!! I love them! These will be an alternating set, with the steelies & dog dish caps sharing duty, depending on the mood....
Attachment 63263
Attachment 63264
What size rims and tires did you use, Roger? I'm sure you mentioned it, but I'm too lazy to read the whole thread again. :)
The rears are 17x9's running 265/70R17 Savero GTR's, and the fronts are 15x4.5's running 145R15's from Nankang. I'm hoping that the Nankangs are superior to the Coker Firestone F560's. When I went to the Cragar specs, in the Classic S/S wheels that I was offered they don't offer 16's. They still have 14's, and 15's have the most options on sizes, plus a few 17's. The best fit I could get for what I wanted was the sizes I picked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
My experience with the Nankings is pretty good. On the other hand, I gave away my Coker F560's with less than 2 miles on them. They wouldn't balance for crap. Plus, I got another inch of drop on the front with the Nankings. :)
Roger, that looks really nice! It looks fast sitting there! :LOL:
This was "tail light Tuesday", and I got a pair of '39 mini Zephyr lights mounted on the Deuce.
Attachment 63270
I also pulled out the seats and re-drilled all of the holes to shift them outboard ~3/8" each to gain a bit of room in the middle, and started fitting the e-brake handle to fit between the seats. I'd made reinforcement plates to locate the seat bolts, and to also spread the load so that if the seats pull loose in a collision it will have to pull through most of the floor pan. Decided to tie the two middle plates together, so that the floor pan will be reinforced for the e-brake handle, too, since I have to tweak them anyway to spread the bolts.:(
Also saw a front frame boxing plate idea that I really liked on a car featured in a Street Rodder mag from a few months back, and I think I'll adapt that with an access plate to get to headlight stand bolts and headlight wiring. Pictures to follow if the idea pans out....;)
I do like those Zephyr like lights Roger, will you use the top part as indicator and the bottom tail light/stop light ? Or is that not able to be accomplished with those lights ?
These are an LED unit, and there is no segregation of top & bottom. They have two levels of illumination, bright and blinding, and if you wire them for the pulse feature they do a three pulse "strobe" effect each time you press the brake, then go steady "ON". The '48 Chev pair that I used on the '33 are the same manufacturer, and they are super.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
Roger, the lights look really nice on there. What brand are they?
They came packaged "Speedway", but they're Technostalgia lights - Technostalgia :: Ford LED Tail Lights
An absolutely no reason for somebody getting too close to your rear when you out cruising in it Roger as I have seen how bright they are on the odd You Tube post.
Make sure and hook up the rapid fire part on the brake lights, I had people tell me that all vehicles should blink 3 times when you hit the pedal, gets your attention, I used the same ones on a beetle...
For sure! I have the '48 Chevy replicas on the '33, and the three fast pulse brake lights are definitely an attention grabber. They're super, super bright, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthyj
Per the Kansas Highway Patrol: "The only flashing lights permitted on non-emergency vehicles are turn signals, hazard warning lamps, and warning lights on school, church, and daycare buses." Good luck, Roger. ;)
Jack, the term used by Technostalgia is the "Rapidfire" feature, where the brake lights pulse three times within less than a second each time the circuit is energized. If the Kansas Highway Patrol cites me for improper flashing lights we'll have a very interesting discussion in court.;) When you study the terminology of lighting, there's a big difference between "flashing" and "pulsing", where "flashing" is at a much slower rate. I'll take my chances, just like having the headlights two or three inches too low.:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Just watching your back, Roger. Just watching your back.
And it's appreciated, Jack, for sure. ;) Someone needs to, the things I get myself into. :HMMM::D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Sort of like occulting lights, flash longer dark than light!
Roger, do me a favor. When you discuss the difference between 'flashing' and 'pulsing' with a KHP trooper, record it. I'd love to hear that conversation :D :D
