I'll bet it doesn't seem like it's been 50 years...................Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Go class of '65!!!
Printable View
I'll bet it doesn't seem like it's been 50 years...................Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Go class of '65!!!
You are right about that, for sure, Uncle Bob! We were a class of forty, which was the largest class to graduate from that school before it was consolidated into a county high school a year later. In some ways it feels like yesterday....Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Wow! It's hard to believe that it's been so long since I posted anything on this build thread. I haven't been totally off of it, but haven't really done much, either, mainly due to three different trips we took through the summer. I actually spent some time on the front frame horns today. While it's not really necessary, I really didn't like the look with the boxing plate cutoff point right at the grill area so I started looking at boxing plate options, and picked up some 1/8" bar stock at the metal shop.
Attachment 64858
Problem is that I need access to install headlight stanchions and the spreader bar bolts after paint. I'd seen boxing plates with a series of "lightening holes" somewhere before, and I liked the idea but the holes were pretty small and didn't "flow" right for me so I played around with some poster board...
Attachment 64859
Up front I'm going to do a partial end plate, because the spreader bar still has to slip into place. This is just a piece of poster board, and I'll add a bit of a rim on the inside edge, leaving room for a wrench on the front spreader bar bolt.
Attachment 64856
Got both plates cut out, and will tack them in place, then go back and weld them out when I pull the body off the next time. Just something a little bit different....
Attachment 64857
Tomorrow I'll work on the front pieces, then do some more on a fog lamp mounting bracket that I'd played with some time back. Wanting to get everything done that needs the body in place, then pull the body one more time so I can attack the exhaust from above. Once done The frame will get blown apart for paint, then put together for the last time (I hope....)
Thanks for the update! I live vicariously these days following everyone else's progress. One good thing about selling the house and moving is that I'll be able to find and organize all the truck parts during my relocation!
The boxing plates look nice, like the hole diameter you went with and the spacing, definately spruces up the finished look to the front end!:cool:
Knocked out a bracket for the single fog light today.
Attachment 64860
Clipped the heads off of a pair of 10-32 bolts and sharpened them for transfer screws, to hit the blind holes in the top of the aluminum bracket that Speedway had for attaching things to roll cages, etc.
Attachment 64861
Attachment 64862
Mounted the light, and not sure that I like the way looks... As I held the light in place I thought I wanted it to align with the plane of the headlights, but now I'm thinking that shorter might be better, putting the fog light out in front of the headlights three or four inches...:confused::(
Attachment 64863
I'll leave it alone and look at it for a few days as I'm doing other stuff and see if it grows on me, or jumps into the scrap box. ;)
Attachment 64864
Roger, great work on the frame finishing touches. On the fog light, I think it looks ok there. Maybe coming off the LH frame horn will give you a more open look to the grill?
I vote to just move the lamp across so that the grille edge runs down the centre of the light sort of, you know what I mean. I do like the finish of your bracket for the lamp and would look really cool chrome covered.
JMHO Roger, a bigger fog lite would help a bunch
As Little Red Riding Hood said "My what great big Headlights you have!" And then took another look - "That is a tiny tiny fog lamp, guess it is a guy thing."
(Man I hope you read this with a smile.)
Do you have a source for larger lights? This one is just under 5" OD, 4 13/16" with a 4" lens.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
They are all over EGay Roger, some of the early are as big as 10" look @ driving lights also. just gotta do sum mods and convert to 12v.,Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I have a NOS 1 of these in stock, circa 1920/30 in perfect shape. Needs 2 B converted to 12 v.
So are you going to drive this in the fog?????????
I think the scale of the vintage large headlights made the the foglight seem like 2" diameter, I like it just the way you have it, and I believe 4" fog lamps are about the standard size! I am actually looking for some approx. 3" backup lights to fit the hole on the custom role pan on my truck. I really like the bright zennon ones but very difficult to find in the right size!
Don,
Thanks for the comment, and I did look at evilBay but wasn't seeing anything that wasn't going to require a bunch of work. I do understand the scale factor, and don't disagree with your thoughts but I'm kinda in a run what I've got mode. Got this one in hand, so keep messing with it or just abandon the idea.
I went back out this morning and as I looked at it I thought about Ryan's suggestion of maybe running it from the frame rail instead of the spreader bar, and the more I looked at it the more I decided it was the bracket on the bar that I really didn't like so much so I started looking at it again. Already had a 3/8" hole in the frame, just in front of the headlight stanchion, which I had planned to weld closed so I decided to try it. I added some plate to the bottom, biasing to one side and filled the gap with weld to let me angle the mount surface and try to keep the bracket more level. Here's the new finished product, and I like it better than before. Thanks for the comment/idea/approach Ryan/40FordDeluxe!
Attachment 64870
Attachment 64871
Attachment 64872
Attachment 64873
Attachment 64874
Ray not sure if you don't like the size of the '34 Commercial headlights, the ~5" fog light, or both? Which is the "guy thing"? No big deal, but I'm dense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooting
Ya' just never know, Jerry, ya' just never know. But if I DO see a fog bank ahead I'll be a bit better prepared, besides running a look that I've come to like.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Like before, I'll look at it for a while and decide if it stays or goes. For now, it is what it is, and I'm movin' on to other things. ;):D:D:D
The 32 grills are a beautiful classical look------
How about if you mounted the fog lite on the top of the frame rail directly?
Sometimes it is about what you like and not what you need or what others think it should be. I for one, have a windshield wiper on my 36 and my T Bucket. I just like the way it looks with em, don't plan on ever need em, but they're there...
Roger, I like the way it looks now too! Nice execution!
Roger, you need to talk to my wife. She will tell you that you are not dense but rather I have a weird sense of humor and often can not express it very good. Sorry.
I like the big headlights and think they look good. My preference is the fog light is not proportional to the big lights and would increase it in size. The relocating of it
sure did help. The guy thing is in reference to the single light. Most of the hot rods are built with duplicate items on each side of center. Bet you whole car is. And then
just to throw everyone off a bit and draw attention, there will be that single fog light up front. It does what it is intended to do which is to draw attention. My preference
would be to have a pair of lights just like the rest of the car - your car - your choice. And by the way, you have one beautiful car already done and this one is also
coming up to your standards, good job.
I have a question, and it's got me frustrated to no end! I was under the '32 looking at the brake arrangement and realized that I had not yet cut an access hole to get to the master cylinder cover, then I noticed the relationship of the MC to the interior. The PO bought the power brake option, which shifts the MC back so that it's right under the seat, not in front of the seat bolts like the '33. Also, there's only about 1/4" of clearance between the top of the cover and the bottom of the floor, pretty tight... I know that I'm not the first to run into this on a Deuce roadster, so wondering about options. My first thought was to simply take the power actuator off, but the chassis mount is a piece made especially for mounting the PB unit, and Pete & Jake's has a different piece for non-power applications. A remote fill unit seems to be the obvious answer, but I've never messed with one before. Thoughts from anyone who's traveled this road before me?
Been down that road numerous times Roger, just do a remote fill and B done with it. No big deal.
Which remote fill do you use, Don, and does it come with a replacement cover or fittings to put into the existing cover? I'm not even 100% sure what MC is on the P&J chassis, but I can find out with a phone call... For a dual MC has to have a separate remote reservoir for each side, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
The divider doesn't go all the way to the top--just separaated part way up so a leak in one end won't lose the brakes on the other end of car
Just call Jason or Jerry @ P&J they'll hook ya up.
Yep, I'll talk to Jason tomorrow. A trip over to Peculiar is a nice drive, and seeing the California Kid & Jake's Coupe in the showroom is a bonus, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
Thanks for that link 36 sedan. I'll keep it in reserve.
Just to follow up, I talked to Jason at P&J's and he shared that they're no longer doing their chassis' the way mine was done back in '09, and he shared several options for me to consider. We quickly got to the point of power brakes really not being needed on a light coupe/roadster hot rod. Bottom line, I'll be taking off the booster, and if the master can mount direct to the bracket I have and be accessible from a hole in the floor that's the way I'll go. If not I'll be cutting that bracket off and using a different one that shifts the master back about a foot or so, making it accessible for fill.
Roger, with those GM metrics on the front and the big drum brakes on the back, you'll be able to stop on a dime and get a nickel change - even without power brakes.
while you are redoing the master, please remember to consider the pedal leverage ratios. Manual and power systems differ and most disc brake systems do require more pressure because they lack the camming effect of drum brakes
Wilwood claims that their pedal setup, that has a 7:1 leverage ratio master cylinder works as well as most power assisted setups. If you have a lot less leverage, then braking power may be unimpressive.
My under floor setup only has a 3.8:1 ratio, and I've never been impressed with the braking power, even with a 7" dual diaphragm booster and 1" master. I now have a 7/8" Wilwood master coupled to the 7" dual diaphragm booster to gain some more braking force. I barely have room for an 8" master, if needed.
A Wilwood 7/8" master is sold as a manual setup, with a long 3/8" pushrod already attached. The pushrod can be removed, by removing the snap ring that retains the piston, then removing the pushrod, that's retained by a washer in front of the piston. The end of the piston does not have a deep bore, like other models - it's got a shallow cup shape at the end. I found that a 6mm button head bolt works as a pushrod for my booster.
The downside to a Wilwood master mounted under floor is that it makes it necessary to add an access panel, since it uses four 8-32 screw to secure that top cover, rather than bales. Having one under the seat would not be easy to use. Mine's ahead of the seat.
I agree, Jack, and so did Jason at P&J. He said they never put a booster on anything they build, except for a roller chassis where the customer specifically orders a power brake option. Jason also shared that they use the same MC on both power and manual applications, with the difference being that the "cup" on the back side of the piston is a deep recess for the actuating rod on the manual application, while the power application uses the shallow cup since the actuating rod is captive, attached to the diaphragm. The MC's that they stock today are deep recess, with an insert that converts it to the shallow cup, which makes it simple for stocking and replacement. Mine is from 2009, and doesn't have the insert so it will have to change. Another detail, the pedal & MC are both designed for manual brakes, which gives a very light touch if the booster is used.
The good thing is that I found that removing the booster pushes the MC forward enough that I can get the access panel in place in front of the seat. Only needed a simple flat plate adapter to convert from four bolts to two, and to reduce the center hole from ~2.25" down to 1.5". It's already bolted on, just need to swap the MC and bend some new brake lines and it's done.
Roger I have a 7" power booster on my '32 roadster with 4 piston wilwoods, save your money its not needed, I have a buddy who has built a lot of cars and agrees, the power booster is just not needed on that light a car much less that little 7" booster doesn't add to much to the performance, my '37 has the GM calipers and a dual 8" booster and I feel since the car weighs a 1000 lbs more its still probably not needed but it does stop well, if done again I would never fall for the thought a booster is needed on a roadster. I have also cut 2 'glass floor boards out for master cylinder doors, if done again I would use a hole saw and cut a round hole with a round door under a floor mat, easy to do and you only need to be able to get a small funnel through the hole, you can take the bail off from underneath, for some reason I had in my head you have to access the whole dang master cylinder, its not needed just a small hole (1 1/2) is about it, just big enough to see the fluid level through, it looks better and its easier to do.
Matt, at my age laying down under the car and trying to get the bales loose from the MC and then get the lid off, only to crawl back out to lift the carpet panel to access a small, round access port just doesn't compute. Besides, the lid on the MC just barely clears the underside of the floor, so I'm not sure I could get the bales loose and out of the way from underneath. I'll check it tomorrow, but my thought is that trying to pull the lid on this one would be a PITB.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthyj
On the '33 I needed access to both clutch & brake MC's so the removable panel is maybe 8"x10". For this one I'll just need a nominal 4" x 6" or so (if I position it accurately). Also, last time I followed a recommendation to cut a piece of flat fiberglass out to form the "lid", using the piece removed from the floor as the "guide", bonded to the underside of the lid. Even with the edges rounded it's 3/16" or more thick. This time I'll cut out the hole using a saber saw with a fine tooth metal blade which takes a very narrow kerf, and will then bond the piece cut out to a piece of 16 gauge sheet metal sized for a nominal 1" rim around the hole for the lid. It will be virtually invisible under the carpet.
Roger, I understand your concerns, my guess is the access panel will be right between your feet (conveniently under a floor mat) as thats where my roadsters ended up with a P&J pedal assembly. I used the cool little aluminum panel that Speedway sells from Doc's Custom, works well but honestly I don't plan on getting in there much but it sure beats my buddies with no access, has to use a squeeze bottle and hose.......did you know in Europe they change the brake fluid once a year, that would make a whole new need for access!
Mine won't be anywhere near my feet - the rod between pedal & mount is ~15" long. The access will be right at the front edge of the seat bottom with the seat all the way back. Even if it were under my feet I wouldn't be concerned...
I'm not sure that the European approach on fluid is not the right way to go. Our DOT 3 & 4 fluid is hygroscopic, absorbing moisture from the air, and it can get pretty nasty if left too long. I had a Jeep GC that was giving me fits so I finally changed the pads. When I pushed the caliper pistons back the fluid coming into the MC was the color of dark molasses, so I bled the brakes and kept pumping until each caliper ran clean, new fluid. Worked fine after getting new fluid in the system....
And just to clarify, the easy way to have solved the problem is to simply buy the remote fill device for the MC like Don suggested and forget about it, but I was never really happy seeing the PB booster hanging there in the first place, with all of the potential issues with vacuum at idle, etc. Once Jason mentioned taking it off I was sold on that approach.
Roger my under the floor resevoir is right under the seat on the edge of a fold in the sheet metal floor pan, I cut an access hole and kept the piece I cut to make a hatch. But years after I did this I still have never made the lid. I think eventually I'll make a screw on access hatch, but run a remote tank set up as you mentioned for the reasons, you mentioned, I'll keep the access hole only for any extensive repairs, later on, but I'd much rather not have to cut the rug up, or get brake fluid spilled inside the car once I'm done!
I'm also running the Dot 5 silicone based stuff to avoid the moisture issues!
Uh Oh.... I think you just kicked the hornets nest!!Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Comments, criticisms and advice regarding DOT 5 go here, please ;) - http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...cial-k-57.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
no hornets nests.I am well aware of the mixing issues of Dot 3 or 4 with Dot 5. In my case all lines hoses reservoirs, wheel cylinders and disc cylinders are all new, no fluid So there isn't a contaminant issue that I can think of, i.e. all new parts!
My car could be a semi because there is only air there for brake components. :LOL:
