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My Dad had a truck that this similar thing happened with. A 1976 C30 Crew Cab. The body shop added a hood scoop, filled all the body molding holes, and grafted a spoiler on the roof. They used this new product called Lord Fuser which was a glue like bonding agent. It shrunk really bad so all the body work had to be redone after they painted it. It was a bad deal. Luckily you caught your pre paint.
I got a question and I gotta ask.. you replaced the rivets with a bolt then welded that in. Why didn't you just weld the hole closed?Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
I'm no body guy by any stretch of some imagination!! But it just "feels" wrong to have a bolt with nut hanging in there. Wouldn't it have been easier to fit a small piece of flatstock and weld that in?
I don't mean to offend! You can tell me to go s_ _ _ in my hat, I'll understand! I'm just trying to understand why you did it this way. :)
No problem, the rivet actually holds on a inner fender brace, just like the original fenders had. The only difference was the new fenders had a new style rivet showing in a countersunk hole. The original was a round head rivet and there was no counter sunk hole. I had to weight my options and decided to just smooth out the new fenders or they were going to look goofy with the modern rivet. I thought about plug welding it all together but I already had them Line X on the back side and I didn't want to warp the crap out of them either, so I went with welding the screw head and bolting on the brace in the back.I'll clip the bolts a bit shorter later. Now go ship in your hat :LOL::LOL: Just kidding
My brother had the same thing happen with his 69 Chevelle with patch panels, not noticeable enough to redo it though, you had to look for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
The thing with the countersunk rivet also is after time, they do work loose and move so several things happen, the countersunk hole breaks away from the rest of the panel or as the rivet is made of a harder material, it will slot out the hole it goes through or as it weakens the surrounding area, one ends with rusty, split panel with an insecure fender support tapping away at the underneath of the panel. So, what you have done is exactly how I would of tackled the problem, just make sure that the nuts on the inside of the fender brace are locked tight. Also I would suggest a plastic or rubber sleeve placed on the thread exposed to protect the thread for any future maintenance and ease of removing the nuts.
AH! I didn't realize the inner support was involved.
Now it makes sense..
Now, where did I leave my boat??? :rolleyes::rolleyes::LOL::LOL:
Stinking ford guys...... :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
UM... ahhhhhh... I got nothin'! :LOL::LOL::LOL:
Ya, stinking Ford guys! Sure glad my 53 doesn't have any Ford parts on it, except the front suspension, rear suspension, rear end, driveshaft, master cyl, brake booster, brake pedal, power steering pump, and after this Saturday, hopefully floor shifter out of a 1987 ish Ranger :LOL::LOL: ( looks like it might be a good fit for it to replace the UNI Shifter )Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
I can't say squat. My Fords have Dodge parts on them, and my chevys have ford and dodge parts on them. Just have to use the best parts from them all and build something better. :LOL:
We're all guilty of it.
The driver's side window winder in the bus is from a Luxford.
Part Toyota Hilux. part Ford Courier.
The windscreen wipers in both the '47 Ford and the Cobra are Morris Minor.
They have the advantage of being able to be turned over so that they can work either in unison or hand clapping.
So yes; we all do it.
It's kinda crazy all the different brands one uses building these things. I never intentionally put on so many Ford parts, they all just seemed to fit better than anything else. I had a Kia brake booster for awhile, that may have crossed some line though:LOL: Here is my list that I have. I made sure I kept track for future parts ordering.
53 Chevy pickup parts
Champion 3 core radiator pn #CC5100B Performance Cooling 209-652-4059
1990 Chevy 1500
-Alternator
-Distributor
-A/C compressor
-Air filter
-Fuel Filter
-700R4 trans ( 1990 Camaro )
-Starter 1998 S15 Jimmy
Mustang II front suspension ( GM brake calipers ? 1990 Chevy 1500 bleed screws fit )
1988 Astro van rear seat
2000 Ford Ranger
-Rearend
-Rear Shocks
Driveshaft U joints 3 5/8 X 1 1/6 Carquest pn# 210-0213
Power steering pump reservoir 2000 Ford Expedition
Power steering pump 2000 Saturn LS2
Steering column 1970’s Chevy van
Lower steering column brg Car Quest pn# 204-SS
Brake pedal to master cyl 1990 F 150
Wilwood proportioning valve
Spent last Sat cleaning up the acreage and loaded up 10 yrs of a slowly growing steel pile that needed to go. As I got to the bottom, I found some 53 parts that were long thrown in the scrap. Can you spot them?
Looks like rusted sheet metal either inner fender or aprons? What's scrap up there by you? I really need to get mine loaded up. I wouldn't mind if they brought me a dumpster to fill up. Saves the hassle of hauling it in and unloading it. :LOL:
Any large scrap yard will drop off a dumpster to fill.
For a reasonable fee, of course. I'd expect the fee to be deducted from the pay out after the scrap is weighed, so it wouldn't be out of pocket.