I'm guessing that you "rough-set" the caster and can fine tune it later, using the radius rod's rod ends.
Printable View
I'm guessing that you "rough-set" the caster and can fine tune it later, using the radius rod's rod ends.
Yep, that is correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Yes, good catch. I actually bought the wrong ( course thread ) nuts the first time around. Luckily I realized my mistake before I did any welding, and I ordered the fine thread nuts. :)
Looks like your doing nice work and have the patience to do so.
Thanks Seth. I'm having a good time with it. I just wish I had more free time to tinker with this stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
"There never seems to be enough time to do the things you want to do,once you find them"
Jim Croce
The Chevy Van that my front axle come off, had the tie rod assembly behind the axle. It needs to be in front of the axle on the T-Bucket:D. I unbolted the steering arms from the spindles, and swapped them from side to side. The only problem with doing this is that the part of the steering arm that connects to the drag link would now be on the the passenger side instead of on the drivers side where it belongs :eek:.
So I cut off that part of the steering arm, and will have to fab a new one for the drivers side spindle. I am going to use the stock Chevy tie rod assembly. I replaced one tie rod end that was rusted up, I will reuse the other one.
Attachment 67899Attachment 67900Attachment 67902Attachment 67901
Sorry Steve, but I think you will have to rethink the whole steering set up as you will have that all wrong if you continue on this path at the moment. I would suggest making your own arms to have the tie rod behind the axle some how whether above the frame or below.
I know very little about steering but I've always been told it's best to have the tie rod behind the axle as well, just what I've heard.
Take some time to read and understand the principles of Akerman's Steering Geometry - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackerm...ering_geometry
Good advice above.:rolleyes: By merely moving the arms to the front (by switching side for side) you have created "reverse Ackerman". That means every corner you drive around will be scuffing the front tires. A lot of builders, especially first-timers, do this and get away with it, but it isn't a good or desirable situation. It can make handling kind of unpredictable under some conditions, especially wet pavement or intersections that may have dirt or sand on the asphalt.:HMMM:
On my roadster I used an Econoline axle similar to your Chevy van axle. I kept the arms on the back side by heating and bending them down to get necessary clearance. On one of my previous C-cab builds and on the Deuce I am building now I fabricated my own steering arms so that I could get the necessary clearance and still keep proper Ackerman angles.:cool: I know it's another big step and a pain in the arse, but worth it in the end.;)
Having said all that, you can go ahead and get the rest of the chassis fabrication done and come back to the steering arms later, preferably before you drive it.:3dSMILE:
Thanks for the heads up on this guys. I know what Ackerman is from my stock car racing days, but for some reason I didn't even think about it on this project. :rolleyes: I'll have to rethink the steering arm situation.
I'm thinking about possibly leaving the tie rod on on the front, but bending the steering arms out as far as possible. I'm not sure yet. I've been away from home the past ten days, I haven't had a chance to actually look at it and think about it.
I'm working on finding the exact location for the radiator, engine, and body. There is a lot of stuff to fit in a small space!
Question, how much clearance do you guys think I need to allow between the transmission and the firewall?
Attachment 67953
I only left about 3/4 of an inch. Just enough to loosen the bolts at the bellhousing for me. Once they are loose I can lower the crossmember and sneak the bolts out to remove the trans.
