Ken,
At Summit you can plug in the wrench size, plug reach, and other plug criteria for a variety of suppliers. I was searching NGK shorty's when this link popped up, as I like NGK's. https://www.summitracing.com/search/...spark-plug/yes
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Ken,
At Summit you can plug in the wrench size, plug reach, and other plug criteria for a variety of suppliers. I was searching NGK shorty's when this link popped up, as I like NGK's. https://www.summitracing.com/search/...spark-plug/yes
MY bad, I have aluminum heads
Great find! But WOW! $43.00 each! I thought it was for a set of 8, NO just one, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
@ $350.00 for a set of 8, they're kinda proud of em...
As I'm no spark plug guru I can't figure out which ones to order. Any Help?
Ken, I'd measure the plug reach, thread and wrench size on the E3's you've been using, then call Summit with your E3 number and have them match the heat range.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Thought the same, then I scrolled down the page and found some more "standard" pricing...Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
I changed my mind and went with Flowtech headers instead of the Patriots. They fit better and don't require shorty plugs or a mini starter. Ian and started on the electric headlight conversion, a major PITA getting the vacuum canisters out.
Since Ian and I have other projects going I decided to hook up the headers to the existing exhaust and changed the vacuum advance from ported to manifold vacuum per Richard's advice.
I might have clearance issues with the sidepipes, she sits a little low in the front, so their installation is put on hold for the time being. I might have to put taller tires up front for more ground clearance, an idea I'm not to fond of, as I love the down in the weeds look. The only vehicle I've owned that wasn't dumped was the 01 Concorde I bought for my late wife, she was not amused by the idea.
By "dumped" do you mean lowered? Don't think I've ever heard that term used with cars, other than one "abandoned" or rail cars that haul materials like rock or coal and have provisions for dumping the load.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Dumped, a term we used in the 50's to describe a car that was lowered, mostly in the front but could apply to the rear as well. A dumped car usually had one or more coils in the front cut or a dropped axle on straight axle cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
To me lowered means all the way around, but does not apply to tail draggers.
Remember, I'm very old school, stuck in the 50's and early 6o's when it comes to cars and trucks.
Other descriptions we used were "huffer, blower and wheezer to described a super charged engine.
My interest started in the late '50's into the '60's. I remember "dropped" but just never heard the term "dumped" that I recall. For me, "Dumps" were exhaust cutouts, generally out of sight but also the short stubby capped pipe just behind the front wheel. "Huffer" & "blower" were common, "wheezer" must have been a more localized term as I don't recall ever hearing or reading that term either.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
No big deal at all, "dumped" is simply a term that I'd not heard before. Might have been because I was stuck in the sticks of extreme SW Missouri, little bitty towns and my exposure was mostly buying any magazine with a car on the cover and wearing out the pages.
Attachment 73908Attachment 73909Attachment 73910Attachment 73911
The electric headlight conversion is complete. All that is left is to adjust the doors upwards as the headlights are way too low.
Here's a video of the headlight operation and also the sound of the new cam.
https://youtu.be/CILFLBU63ek
kit looks like it works great. motor sounds good. But get that fuel filter off the heater hose! LOL... 8-)
I've been meaning to do that, just haven't gotten around to it yet. The Quadrajet has a filter in the inlet and I have a new hard line for it but the clocking of the outlet on the pump is not right. The Vette requires a different pump and my tube bending skills leave a lot to be desired. :o:whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Can't you re-clock your pump to move the fittings where you need them to be? I had to do that on the roadster.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
No, unfortunately, it's a crimped pump. The outlet fitting is about 90º from where it should be. I had the right one in my eBay summary until a computer crash a while back. I'll find it again and get one ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Love this thread, Ken. It's great to have Ian help as time with kids/grandkids is better than anything else here on earth.
Years ago, I invested in tooling for AN type fittings and a pretty fair inventory of braided stainless steel hose. It's been a life saver in some situations where hard lines are just a pain or I needed to route away from headers or other heat sources (and it looks really cool too). Don't know if such would work for your fuel line, but I know things are tight in Corvette engine bays. Just a thought.
Best,
Glenn
That's not a bad idea, but I have two, supposedly stock, fuel lines though they are not identical. I'm going to try a 90º elbow fitting on the first. If that doesn't work I'll get a new pump, Delphi MF 0013 which has the outlet fitting in the proper location.Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsexton
And yes, it's great having Ian to help on the car and besides someday it'll be his so he has some skin in the game.:D:LOL::LOL:
"..... my tube bending skills leave a lot to be desired. ....."
Ken this is about the best investment I made for working with tubing.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ges/470-fh.php
As far as the fuel filter, 40 years ago I had a minor engine fire (almost had it out) that turned into a MAJOR engine fire when the plastic fuel filter melted. I've used the metal ones ever since.
.
Didn't get much done over the weekend so going to try to do some things before it gets hot again.
I found a 90º brass elbow that should allow me to use one of the two hard fuel lines I have. I could replace the pump with one that the outlets properly clocked but I hate to replace something that is working. :eek::LOL::LOL:
I plan on adjusting the headlight doors so I can see at night, I guess when Ian and I installed them we didn't follow the directions very well:D:eek::LOL::LOL:
I bought an inexpensive furniture dolly at Harbor Freight that I'm going to use to store the t tops when they are off the car. The dolly was cheaper than I could buy the materials to make one. I also ordered the parts that will allow me to adjust the t tops so they fit better and are easier to install.
Concur - I have the exact tool and it makes wonderful bends - actually make me look like I know what I'm doing!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
I finished my dolly to store the t-tops in when they're off the car, I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
With the front end dumped the headlights are in the weeds, not good. I have the dims adjusted up as far as they will go so time to re-engineer. I plan on taking a bit of material off the upper adjustment mount. I believe I can take at least an 1/8" and possibly a 1/4" off which will allow the headlight to be aimed higher. I'll do some more measuring tomorrow before I grind the bosses down.
It's a bit overkill and I might have to modify the center supports. I had the headliners off when measuring and had plenty of room. With the headliners on not so much. If necessary I'll replace the center 2x4's with 2x2's.
Attachment 73925Attachment 73926
Since modifying the mounting/adjustment brackets is next to impossible I decided to modify the mount. So far I've taken off about an 1/8" on the inside boss and I'll stop at 3/16" or a 1/4". Then I'll shave off the outside boss to match. I'm using a Dremel because of the tight quarters. If I ever need to return to something near stock I'll use spacers between the bracket and the mounting bosses.Attachment 73927Attachment 73928
I have the passenger side finished and working on the drivers side. Hope to have it finished by this evening.
After all the trouble the headlights just aren't bright enough so I'm changing gears. I'm running Sylvania Halogens and they don't provide enough light in today's environment. I'm going to replace all 4 headlights with glass enclosures that accept H-4 bulbs. I might have to modify the opening the connectors pass through in the headlight buckets. That won't be a problem since I have a few rotary files courtesy of Douglas Aircraft. They were used to trim structural panels and are very effective in doing so.
Until those parts arrive I will concentrate on modifying my t-top dolly.
Ken I’m running H-4s on the 57…..I like the light over the halogen.
One issue I ran into with them is the current draw. They were fine on low beam all night long (literally). On high beam after about 20 minutes they would trip the 30A circuit breaker fortunately after about a 5 minuet cooling off period the breaker would reset. I cured that with a relay located on the circuit between the headlight switch and the dimmer switch. Power to the load (headlight) side of the relay is from a wire from the battery.
Where I only had problems with the High Beams I could have probably gotten by mounting the relay on the core support and only connecting it to the high beam circuit. It would have been easier and a lot less wire.
One other option I’ve been kicking around is to replace the H-4s with LED lights at some point.
Just some thoughts.
.
I wired my headlights through two relays a couple of years ago. The dimmer switch powers the relays and the headlights are powered from the "+" on the alternator through the relays. The headlight wiring is protected by a 20 amp inline fuse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
My revised t-top cart. When I find the time I'll probably paint it so it looks better.
[ATTACH]Attachment 73941[/ATTACH]
Looks like it'll workout nice. Stable and keep'em protected. Good job.
I added some carpet to cushion the t-tops and also for scratch protection. I might have to add some to the side rails, haven't determined that yet.Attachment 73954Attachment 73955
I installed the new headlights I bought of eBay. They are glass fronts and metal backs designed to accept H4 bulbs. They light up the area so much better than the halogens they replaced. I still need to adjust them more and install the surrounds, just waiting on new hard ware for the surrounds.
BTW. all 4 of the headlights were $79.95 from a vendor on eBay. The high beams are 3 prong with a supplied adapter to convert to 2 prong.Attachment 73956
I left the headlight bezels off to replace a damaged connector on the right side high beam. I bought a new one and installed it yesterday so hopefully I'm done with the headlight conversion. The motors have an inline 20 amp fuse so you can pull the fuse once the headlights are up and they will stay in that position until the fuse is reinstalled. Need less to say, once the fuse is pulled you can turn off the headlights to work on them.Attachment 74046
double post
This is the new jack support that is located in the middle of the front cross member. It's 3/16" thick and much heavier that the bent up one it's replacing.Attachment 74048
The new headlights, they operate very smooth and should be plenty bright.
https://youtu.be/pZZo6ylRp-M
Your video is Private, not viewable to others.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Sorry about that, I changed it to public so it should be good now.
The original headlight switch broke so I replaced it with an aluminum one with a set screw, looks better in my opinion.
I have become tired of trying to get the interior door pulls to match so I am in the process of replacing them with ones that came on 66-67 Vettes. They are metal and with just a bit of massaging they fit fine. I only have the left side done, waiting on the right side to arrive.Attachment 74155Attachment 74156Attachment 74157
