Updating my Corvette

Didn't get much done over the weekend so going to try to do some things before it gets hot again.
I found a 90º brass elbow that should allow me to use one of the two hard fuel lines I have. I could replace the pump with one that the outlets properly clocked but I hate to replace something that is working. :eek::LOL::LOL:
I plan on adjusting the headlight doors so I can see at night, I guess when Ian and I installed them we didn't follow the directions very well:D:eek::LOL::LOL:
I bought an inexpensive furniture dolly at Harbor Freight that I'm going to use to store the t tops when they are off the car. The dolly was cheaper than I could buy the materials to make one. I also ordered the parts that will allow me to adjust the t tops so they fit better and are easier to install.

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Originally Posted by Mike P

Ken this is about the best investment I made for working with tubing.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ges/470-fh.php

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Concur - I have the exact tool and it makes wonderful bends - actually make me look like I know what I'm doing!!

I finished my dolly to store the t-tops in when they're off the car, I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
With the front end dumped the headlights are in the weeds, not good. I have the dims adjusted up as far as they will go so time to re-engineer. I plan on taking a bit of material off the upper adjustment mount. I believe I can take at least an 1/8" and possibly a 1/4" off which will allow the headlight to be aimed higher. I'll do some more measuring tomorrow before I grind the bosses down.

It's a bit overkill and I might have to modify the center supports. I had the headliners off when measuring and had plenty of room. With the headliners on not so much. If necessary I'll replace the center 2x4's with 2x2's.

Attachment 73925Attachment 73926

Since modifying the mounting/adjustment brackets is next to impossible I decided to modify the mount. So far I've taken off about an 1/8" on the inside boss and I'll stop at 3/16" or a 1/4". Then I'll shave off the outside boss to match. I'm using a Dremel because of the tight quarters. If I ever need to return to something near stock I'll use spacers between the bracket and the mounting bosses.Attachment 73927Attachment 73928

I have the passenger side finished and working on the drivers side. Hope to have it finished by this evening.

After all the trouble the headlights just aren't bright enough so I'm changing gears. I'm running Sylvania Halogens and they don't provide enough light in today's environment. I'm going to replace all 4 headlights with glass enclosures that accept H-4 bulbs. I might have to modify the opening the connectors pass through in the headlight buckets. That won't be a problem since I have a few rotary files courtesy of Douglas Aircraft. They were used to trim structural panels and are very effective in doing so.
Until those parts arrive I will concentrate on modifying my t-top dolly.

Ken I’m running H-4s on the 57…..I like the light over the halogen.

One issue I ran into with them is the current draw. They were fine on low beam all night long (literally). On high beam after about 20 minutes they would trip the 30A circuit breaker fortunately after about a 5 minuet cooling off period the breaker would reset. I cured that with a relay located on the circuit between the headlight switch and the dimmer switch. Power to the load (headlight) side of the relay is from a wire from the battery.

Where I only had problems with the High Beams I could have probably gotten by mounting the relay on the core support and only connecting it to the high beam circuit. It would have been easier and a lot less wire.

One other option I’ve been kicking around is to replace the H-4s with LED lights at some point.

Just some thoughts.



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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike P

Ken I’m running H-4s on the 57…..I like the light over the halogen.

One issue I ran into with them is the current draw. They were fine on low beam all night long (literally). On high beam after about 20 minutes they would trip the 30A circuit breaker fortunately after about a 5 minuet cooling off period the breaker would reset. I cured that with a relay located on the circuit between the headlight switch and the dimmer switch. Power to the load (headlight) side of the relay is from a wire from the battery.

Where I only had problems with the High Beams I could have probably gotten by mounting the relay on the core support and only connecting it to the high beam circuit. It would have been easier and a lot less wire.

One other option I’ve been kicking around is to replace the H-4s with LED lights at some point.

Just some thoughts.
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I wired my headlights through two relays a couple of years ago. The dimmer switch powers the relays and the headlights are powered from the "+" on the alternator through the relays. The headlight wiring is protected by a 20 amp inline fuse.

My revised t-top cart. When I find the time I'll probably paint it so it looks better.

[ATTACH]Attachment 73941[/ATTACH]

Looks like it'll workout nice. Stable and keep'em protected. Good job.

I added some carpet to cushion the t-tops and also for scratch protection. I might have to add some to the side rails, haven't determined that yet.Attachment 73954Attachment 73955

I installed the new headlights I bought of eBay. They are glass fronts and metal backs designed to accept H4 bulbs. They light up the area so much better than the halogens they replaced. I still need to adjust them more and install the surrounds, just waiting on new hard ware for the surrounds.
BTW. all 4 of the headlights were $79.95 from a vendor on eBay. The high beams are 3 prong with a supplied adapter to convert to 2 prong.Attachment 73956

I left the headlight bezels off to replace a damaged connector on the right side high beam. I bought a new one and installed it yesterday so hopefully I'm done with the headlight conversion. The motors have an inline 20 amp fuse so you can pull the fuse once the headlights are up and they will stay in that position until the fuse is reinstalled. Need less to say, once the fuse is pulled you can turn off the headlights to work on them.Attachment 74046

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