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Definitely the 57. The 37 was fun and a fun (if somewhat long) build. I just couldn't bring myself to put an automatic in the 57. By the time the 57 sold though I was ready for it to leave......it had starting bothering me a lot that it was such a neat car but I couldn't drive it anymore.
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Ok time for another update. On the bright side I went ahead and ordered more stuff for the 68, a lot of which has come in. There’ve been several days where it’s felt Christmas around here. You’d think at my age and the number of cars I’ve built that getting new parts in wouldn’t make me as happy as it does LOL. Anyway I figured I’d go ahead and get the stuff I’ll need while it’s still available/before the prices go up again. Among other things I got; the electric power steering, an MSD 6A, a spare 110A single wire alternator and a 650 Edelbrock AVS2.
I’m still going to pull the intake off and have the plenum divider milled down for a Holley Sniper EFI but I’ve heard of bad things happening trying to use an aftermarket EFI on a fresh engine that hasn’t been completely broken in. The AFB that’s on the engine now does ok on the engine stand, but it’s only 600 CFM and I figure the 650 will probably do a bit better when the engine is actually in the car and driving.
On the saving money side the good news is I’m able to use up a lot of the new “spare parts” I have on hand. I’ve got a new stereo, gauge set, cruise control, GPS, ignition ECUs, spare distributor (for the “just in case” travel box I carry) and a bunch of little odds and ends.
On the down side I’m doing some wiring (and will have a bunch more to do) and when I checked my terminal box almost all of my connectors, shrink tubing, and electrical wire needed to be replenished. I got most of the small stuff ordered and then started looking for a wire assortment (in different colors) on-line as locally the wire assortment (especially in different colors) is pretty limited.
I noticed most of the wiring I was finding was marked as “CCA” which I don’t remember seeing before. It turns out CCA stands for Copper Coated Aluminum. I looked into it a bit more and found that it’s not really good to use in vibration prone environments as the aluminum wire will work harden and eventually break. Anyway I looked a little harder and found what’s supposed to be USA made stranded solid copper wire. It cost about twice as much as the CCA wire but I figured why take a chance. Admittedly the CCA would probably last at least as long as I’ll be able to drive, but if there’s something I hate it’s repairing something I recently built and it’s even worse if it happens to be wiring.
Anyway I figured I’d pass on what I found out about the CCA wire in case you haven’t heard about it yet. If it’s not already on the shelves in the local parts stores, I suspect it soon will be.
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I noticed that stuff when I bought some jumper cables, the cheap ones are all aluminum. Sneaky little trick to make us think we are getting a bargain.
Sunday again and Cade was out for most of the day. We spent most of the day clearancing the transmission tunnel for the Over Drive unit on the 46RH. Yea by we I mean mostly Cade LOL.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...62e13466_z.jpgz Trans tunnel by M Patterson, on Flickr
By this afternoon we pretty much had it figured out.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...83c0663a_z.jpgOD 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...95c02e31_z.jpgOD 2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
We have a bit more trimming to do and I’ll need to weld some flat-stock in to gain the strength back before we call it good. We were able to adjust the engine bit more. We’re not quite there yet but we’re close to getting it to the sweet spot it will live at.
On those days where I’m not up for anything too physical I’ve been doing projects where I can sit at a bench. One of those has been the gauge cluster. While the setup currently in the green car is reasonably functional for a race car I’m not real wild about it for a street car.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b2cfe8a3_z.jpg68 Cluster 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr
The factory gauge cluster is actually pretty nice and it looks like they put new gauges in when they restored it……of course none of them work, I suspect I’ll find they’re not hooked up. The cluster looks nice enough I really don’t want to destroy it for aftermarket gauges…….but hey that’s why I bought a parts car. Destroying this cluster didn’t really bother me too much LOL.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d672579c_z.jpg68 Cluster 2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
I never did find a 1 ½” fuel gauge so I decided on a 2” Autometer fuel gauge. This made gauge placement a little more challenging but I finally settled on this.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e19d68bd_z.jpg68 cluster 3 by M Patterson, on Flickr
I wanted to leave the headlight, wiper and hazard flasher switches in the original location which meant I would need at least a portion of the back plate which is also used to mount the cluster back in the dash. A little time with the cut-off wheel and I had the part I needed.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3ae22709_z.jpg68 dash 4 by M Patterson, on Flickr
I got new gauge face cut out, black paint on it and have it assembled. There is still a bit to do/re-do but I think I’ll like it better than what is currently in the car.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...14149ee8_z.jpgz GC by M Patterson, on Flickr
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Remember my other Grandson Austin?
https://live.staticflickr.com/4340/3...cbc216c9_z.jpgaustin torque wrench by M Patterson, on Flickr
Somewhere along the line he got a bit older (13) and bigger. Yeah he’s turned into a full blown teenager.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ed198fb9_z.jpgz Austin 3 by M Patterson, on Flickr
Frankly I don’t think he’ll develop an interest in cars like his older brother and that’s OK. His interests seem to lie in other things one of which is electronics. As long as Austin’s interested in doing this, there’s going to be plenty of electrics to do.
I’ve been teaching him the basics on DC wiring (a lot of which he already knew). We’ve moved from there to teaching him how to read wiring diagrams and now we’re at the point where I’m having him actually starting to draw the diagrams out himself……and what better project to start him on than a custom gauge cluster for say a 68 Plymouth Valiant.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3e1a2ec1_z.jpgz Austin 4 by M Patterson, on Flickr
The next project (hopefully sometime this week) will be to actually connect the circuits to plugs. I figure we’ll get in some wire splicing, (both soldering and crimp connectors) shrink tubing, reading an ohm meter etc etc. I figure once were done we’ll connect up the dash lights so he can see they actually work.
I made it a point a long time ago that I will never force the grandkids to be out in the shop with me. If there is something they have an interest and want to learn I’m more than happy to teach and help. If they don’t want to be there that’s OK too. This is one of those things that Austin doesn’t mind coming out to grandpa’s dusty old shop to do and we’re both enjoying it.
God only knows what direction Austins’ life will take him, but you can never have too many skill sets.
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I wish I had somebody to come help and hang out at my shop !
I wish I'd had a grandpa like you.
You're a good man.
You're settin' the Grandpa bar awful high, Mike!! I envy your relationship with the grandson's. None of mine have ever had any interest hanging out around the shop, which is probably more a reflection on me than them....
Cade and I kept plugging away at getting the engine and trans mock-up done on Sunday. It looks like we have just one more hurtle to clear. We ran into an interference issue with a boss on the OD unit and the trans crossmember. On the transmission that’s going into the car the hole is plugged so trimming the part of the boss off will not be a problem. On the mock-up case it’s threaded (I’m guessing for a plug). As the mock-up case is borrowed, I want to talk to the guy I borrowed it from to see if he will let me trim that area or has a junk housing I can cut. If not I’ll trim the OD housing on the complete transmission I have that’s going in the car then pull the mock-up engine and trans out of the car and mount the rebuilt transmission to the mock-up engine. Either way I have to trim the boss where I’ve drawn the red line to get the engine/trans in straight before I built the motor mounts.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...62d93c71_z.jpgz OD int 2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
For AC/heat I’d been debating on whether to put the factory heater from the parts car in the green car and use an under dash AC unit or buy a combination heat/AC unit.
The heater had been pulled from the Green car when it was built and the firewall holes filled. I decided to go with a unit that I suspect is probably made by the same outfit as the heat/AC unit Seth is running in his 53 Dodge truck. I got the one with the 6 outlets that should tuck under the dash (yeah I know it’s going to be a mess of hoses by the time I get through).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...43c9520c_z.jpgz ac by M Patterson, on Flickr
I’m still looking for some vents to mount under the dash that I like but I think it should work out OK.
We pulled the factory heater out of the mock-up car Sunday, mostly to get the blower motor out of the way. And it looks like there should be enough room under the dash to get everything tucked up there. I may not be Cades’ favorite person when it’s all done…..but he fits under the dash so much better than me :LOL: .
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Just tell Cade it's yet another "right of passage". Who doesn't enjoy laying head down, peering into the dark, winding too large arms past razor sharp brackets trying to reach hidden fasteners?
The beginning of last week talked to the friend I’d borrowed the 46RH case I’d borrowed from. He had a few spare OD housings so he didn’t care if I cut this one for clearance. The trimming did the trick and we were finally able to get the transmission where it belonged.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e92f24a4_z.jpgOD Trim by M Patterson, on Flickr
The transmission tunnel pretty much dictates how far forward the engine sits in the engine bay. The clearances are snug but it should work and I’ll still have room to get the cooler lines and components for the controller in. With bracket for the transmission mount and the mount installed there is not a lot of room between the bottom of the OD housing and the crossmember. It’s fine with a new mount in place but over time or god forbid if the trans mount gets oil soaked I’m afraid it might collapse enough to create a problem so I’ll probably swap out the rubber mount for a urethane one (this was an issue I had with the 57 Plymouth and the solution I came up with).
Next weekend we’ll work on motor mounts (which means also figuring out what we’ll have to do on exhaust). The fun never ends.
This afternoon I worked with Austin finishing up the gauge cluster. Time to turn the wiring diagram into a functional gauge cluster. It was a lot of repetitive work connecting the circuits but in the end we hooked a battery up and checked the function on everything we could. He was impressed when we hooked up the sending unit and the fuel gauge worked.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bbc1cf78_z.jpgz aust wiring by M Patterson, on Flickr
I know it’s not as pretty as the work a lot of you guys do, but it’s functional.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...87ab8811ae.jpgz AW2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
At the end of the day I asked him if he knew that grandpa knew how to make magnets…..he looked at me with that “ok what’s the joke” look. I showed him the trick of wrapping a coil of wire around a screwdriver blade and touching it to a battery. I think he tried to pick up everything in the shop with that darn screwdriver. Anyway I told him an old mechanic had shown me that trick when I was about his age. He looked at me and grinned then said “well an OLD mechanic showed me that trick now” (darn smart aleck LOL).
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Good times! The wiring looks great.
Another Sunday come and gone. Cade and I tackled final engine placement and exhaust. The biggest issue with the exhaust was clearing the steering box.
I had 4 sets of exhaust to start with. A set of the shorty headers, a pair of the 4 bolt flange truck/Chrysler 300 manifolds and 2 pair of 55-56 Chrysler exhaust manifolds.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e3aa5d5e2c.jpgexhaust by M Patterson, on Flickr
We tried the headers first no way/ no how (kind of figured that but had to try). Next up was the truck manifolds. These were the ones I really wanted to use. These have a 2 ½” outlet and are supposed to be the best flowing factory manifolds for the early HEMIs. Unfortunately, because of the angle the manifolds dumped at they didn’t clear the steering box.
A pair of the 55-56 manifolds did fit. It’s tight around the steering box but I’ve built cars with less clearance. I’ll probably build a heat shield between the box and manifold but it’s a manual steering gear and should be fine.
The 55-56 manifolds only have a 2 inch outlet and are the option I least wanted to use. That being said I ran the same manifolds on the 57 Plymouth from the time I built it. Even with the dual quads the 354 (364 CI with the overbore) ran fine with them. If I was in better shape I’d probably build a set of custom headers for it, but I don’t think my back will let me and the time I’d spend building them will be less time I’ll have to enjoy the car.
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In the process of fitting the manifolds we had to raise the engine a bit.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bcea8fe6_z.jpginstall 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr
Raising the motor actually solved some clearance issues. The passenger side valve cover now clears without any issues. It will be close, but I may be able to run the steering shaft straight to the steering box instead of building 2 piece shaft with U joints.
What looks like potential problems in the picture should actually be non-issues. The heater had been removed from the Green car and the hole filled prior to me buying it (I’ll be using an aftermarket heat/AC unit under the dash). I already have the brackets to raise the master cylinder to clear the driver’s side valve cover.
The distributor is a little tight beneath the windshield wiper motor but we're able to easily get it in and out of the engine and 90 degree boots on the plug wires will work.
Of course with raising the motor I now have to raise the frame mounts to compensate and with luck I should be able to do that this coming week.
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Looks like might need a factory style hemi hood scoop to clear the carb...........it'll be close anyway.
“…..Looks like might need a factory style hemi hood scoop to clear the carb…..”
I’ve been thinking along the same lines Bob. I really like the way the Pro-Stock style scoop looks on the Green car. Unfortunately it’s just not practical for something that’s going to see daily driver duties.
I also like the six-pack air cleaner I currently have on the HEMI. When I built the air cleaner base I didn’t build it with drop base, but that’s something I could pretty easily change and maybe lose an inch or so of height. With that air cleaner though I can’t move it any more forward because of the AC compressor and it won’t be able to be moved back due to the wiper motor. Basically there’s a good chance that a smaller drop base air cleaner is in the cars future.
I am hoping that I can just use the stock flat hood from the parts car. There’s a good chance though that the car will need a scoop/bubble of some kind. Much like when I did the scoop on the 57 Plymouth there’s not a whole lot out there that I like. So far I’ve narrowed it down to 3 that I could live with if I have to.
Of those 3 the one I like the least is a Corvette style cowl induction scoop. Their available in both steel and fiberglass and both 2 and 4 inch rise. It would probably open up the most options for an air cleaner however.
2nd on the list is a dodge “Power-bulge” similar to what the early 70s Chargers/Superbees used. Unfortunately the only way I’ve found them is as a complete hood (but not a valiant hood). Buying a complete hood to cut the bulge out is cost prohibitive and a lot more work than I want to get into.
The one I’m leaning too the most is a Thunderbolt style teardrop scoop. I can get it with or without the holes and screens in the rear. So far I’ve only been able to find it in fiberglass. I actually don’t think it would look to bad.
Hopefully the flat hood will clear, but at least I have options.
I’m also open to any thoughts you guys out there may have.
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How about a shaker style, I've always liked those.
"....How about a shaker style, I've always liked those....."
Thanks, I've run shakers on a few cars (and looked some up when I was looking at scoops). On some cars they look great, just not real sure I'd like the looks of one on this particular car.......in a lot of cases I think they would look out of place with the hood open.
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I personally like the Thunderbolt hood scoop idea. And it being fiberglass you could easily change the height above the hood.
As much as a fan I am of the Thunderbolt scoop, what about an A12 cloned scoop to keep it in the Mopar family?
".....what about an A12 cloned scoop to keep it in the Mopar family?....."
Thanks Robert. That’s pretty much what the Green Valiant currently has, and I think it looks great on the car. If this car was going to be used basically as a toy I’d be keeping it and not look back. That being said, the issue I have with it is that it’s open in the front.
This car will become my daily transportation once it’s running. From first hand experience bad weather (like our monsoon season) at best usually leads to a lot of ruined air filters and nasty looking engine compartments. I think I could buy an A12 scoop with the front not cut out but think it’d look ridiculous. I could build a removable plug to fit in the scoop for inclement weather (been there, done that) but really don’t want to go through the hassle.
Before we raised the engine I think I could have probably used the flat hood with no problems. With the engine raised it’s looking more and more like I’ll need a scoop to clear the air cleaner.
A lot of people don’t realize that the teardrop “hood scoop” on the TBolts was never intended as a way to get air to the engine, actually just the opposite. The air to the 427 was actually provided by an air box over the carbs fed by 2 LARGE hoses that picked up air through where the inboard High Beam headlights used to be. The “scoop” was actually just a bubble to clear the air box. By opening the 2 holes in the back of the teardrop (which by the design of the teardrop was a low pressure area) the teardrop actually helped evacuate hot air from under the hood.
When we had the engine set lower one of the potential problems I wonder about was hot air backing up under the hood at highway speeds and I filed the teardrop idea away as a potential solution. With the engine in it’s current location I don’t think getting air out of the engine compartment is going to be an issue but air filter clearance may be.
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For those unfamiliar with what Mike has described for the Thunderbolt arrangement, here's a couple thousand work depictions on the Lightning Bolt (small block version of Thunderbolt) Fairlane I did a while back. Intake plumbing and hood scoop profile.
Thanks for posting that Bob. I always loved the 64 Fairlanes. Up until several years ago I always figured I'd come across a builder someday as a project. By the time I got serious about finding one they had gone up way out of my price range.
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When I finished college and moved to Kansas City in 1976, I was perusing the Used Auto ads in the KC Star and saw a '65 Mustang Fastback, 289HiPo and a 4 speed listed for $1800. I said to myself, "That's an 11 year old car and he's asking more than 50% of the new list price!! No way it's worth THAT!!" :eek::(:(;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
Duh, guess I should have revisited page 1. :whacked: We had clearance issues with the Crites hood as delivered and converted it into a teardrop on steroids. Not good as a daily driver either. :LOL:
I suspect many of us here have similar stories. One of mine would be when my line foreman came into my office one morning in 1973 and said he needed some money. He knew I was a car guy so offered his 63 Silver, split window Vette with factory fuel injection..............$1500. Nothing to get too excited about, that was about right pricing for a 10 year old used car like that. At that moment I had neither space nor free money to do the deal that was just ho hum for the time in history. Sigh..........Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Damn Robert you poured the WHOLE bottle of steroids on that one. :LOL::LOL:
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We’re still moving forward. With the engine placed I got the motor mount perches tacked on to the K member. Naturally the welder started screwing up but fortunately the K member will be coming out which will make it a lot easier to do the grinding and final welding. We also got the engine ready to pull off the run stand so we could get the pan changed out.
We pulled the intake off and I took it over to the machine shop to have about 3/8” milled off the center divider. While the intake was at the machine shop I got the chain hoist off the mockup engine and when I brought the intake back I decided to set it on the engine and see where I was height wise.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5e94f26c_z.jpgzz HR by M Patterson, on Flickr
NOT GOOD It’s hard to get a good perspective from this angle but the top of the carb is above the hood line. I would definitely need to talk to Robert about borrowing his teardrop scoop stretcher to run this intake.
Much as I hated to, it was time to start looking at different intakes. First up (mostly because I had access to one) was a factory single 4 BBL intake.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c92918f9_z.jpgzz Factotry by M Patterson, on Flickr
It was better, it put the carb over an inch lower, but I’d still need to cut a hole in the hood for an air cleaner. After some thinking I came to the conclusion that the only intake I was aware of that was lower than the factory 4 BBL intake would be would be the 57-58 factory dual quad intake (and possibly the Weiand 7263 which I believe is basically just a copy of the factory unit). I think the dual quad intake might actually allow me to run an unmodified flat hood. This would be the same setup I ran on the 57. I’m kind of burned out on dual quads (I actually wanted to run the single 4 BBL so I could play with EFI later on). That being said, I do have a spare pair of carbs set up for dual quads and the linkage on hand so t wouldn’t be too bad to set up the engine. So far I haven’t come across an intake but I just started putting the word out that I’m hunting.
Yesterday we went ahead and pulled the engine off the stand so we could trade out the rear sump pan for the center sump one.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...31edf8b9_z.jpgzz Pans by M Patterson, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c6bb1ba1_z.jpgzz PU 2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
I didn’t have too much trouble locating a center sump pan when I started this project (I actually ended up with 2 of them). The problem was nobody listed a new pickup for them. I knew the SB Mopar from 64 thru the early 80s was the same basic profile as the center sump 392 pan. The oil pump I was using is one of Hot Heads modified HV 340 oil pumps. I could find the SB oil pick-ups new and figured it should work so I took a chance and ordered one.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f4e8b4c4_z.jpgpickup by M Patterson, on Flickr
and fortunately it fit just fine.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e4fb80c5_z.jpgzz PU 3 by M Patterson, on Flickr
We finished up yesterday putting the engine (sans intake ) back on the run stand.
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Can't tell from the picture but could you mill some off the stock intake?
".........Can't tell from the picture but could you mill some off the stock intake?......."
There's a little bit there that could go........maybe at most an 1/8" which really isn't enough to do much good. I'm really hoping to find either a Weiand or factory dual quad intake which should save at least 1 1/2", that with some drop base air cleaners might do the trick or at least minimize the height I'd I'd have to have for a scoop.
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The last couple of weeks have been spent waiting on parts and getting the engine ready to put in the car. I found a manifold (turned out the guy I bought the center sump oil pan from had one). It’s an older Weiand WC2QE which was produced prior to Holley buying out Weiand. It’s pretty close to the Weiand 7263. I gained a little more clearance with it but hood clearance is still going to be close. As far as I know it’s still the lowest one out there.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fa711fa3_z.jpgDC1 by M Patterson, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ff45495a_z.jpgDC2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
The 354 in the 57 Plymouth ran a lot better with 650 CFM AFBs than it did with the 550 CFM units I have sitting on the shelf, so I decided to go ahead and order a second AVS2 650 to go with one I already had. I took them both apart to verify all the internal parts were tight and verify the jetting and step-rods so I’d have a base line when I start tuning them. The only change I made was putting in a step lighter step-up spring and tightening up the secondary air valves just a bit. Building linkage and fuel lines was pretty straight forward.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1f4df2fd_z.jpgintake carbs by M Patterson, on Flickr
The final thing I needed to do was move the oil pump/distributor intermediate shaft one tooth so I could get the timing set (vacuum advance to manifold clearance issues…..hate it when that happens). I got it fired up yesterday and did the initial timing and carburetor adjustments.
I started on building the air cleaner base this morning. I’m pretty happy with the way it sets, it could go back a bit further, but I’m afraid I’d run into wiper motor interference if I do, so for now this is the way it sits until we have the motor in the car and the hood on. The good news is I can probably get another 1 to 1½” lower by changing air cleaner lids and dropping the base a bit more.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7669f679_z.jpgDQ AC by M Patterson, on Flickr
Today we (and by we yes I mean Cade LOL) pulled the mockup engine and transmission out. Then it was time to remove the K member……yes removing torsion bars that were installed 56 years ago are a PIA. By the end of the day it was out and on the floor. This week will probably be spent doing the final welding and grinding on the motor mounts and cleaning it up and painting.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1341b55c_z.jpgK Member by M Patterson, on Flickr
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The engine looks awesome, I like the low intake. That'll be some eye candy when the hood is popped.
Still moving forward I guess :D
I got the K member cleaned and painted last week, so that’s ready for next weekend.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f2de7bed_z.jpgHemi K member by M Patterson, on Flickr
Yesterday Cade and I actually started on the Green Valiant. Turned into a long day but by the end of it we had an empty engine bay.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9af8b7fb_z.jpgEB by M Patterson, on Flickr
And the 508 and torqueflite sitting on the engine cart.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...da840f81_z.jpg508 by M Patterson, on Flickr
As expected fighting the headers to get the engine out was the biggest issue and a giant PIA. Fortunately, the HEMI swap will be a lot less dramatic, having already done the mock-up will save a bunch of time when we start putting the car back together. I’m sure glad we won’t have to fight those headers when we put the car back together…….so is Cade LOL.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...26cf210f_z.jpgA body BB by M Patterson, on Flickr
With the car up in the air I was able to get the casting number off the carrier and order a set of gears. I ordered 4.30s which with the overdrive will have an effective ratio of 2.97. I’ll probably spend the rest of the week cleaning and sorting parts so I can put the parts car and parts up for sale in the next couple of weeks.
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Not much of an update this week, we’re still plodding along on the car. At this point it’s mostly taking the parts off the green car that will be sold with the red car. Getting the Terminator wiring harness thru the firewall is a giant PIA, but were getting there. We did get the BB K member in the red car and it’s suspension bolted back on.
One of the reasons I bought the Green car was because of the suspension. I figured with the 440 and 727 installed, it probably had beefier torsion bars……Nope, when I measured them last week it turns out it still had 6 Cyl bars. I checked around and PST had the bars I wanted ….I spent too much time browsing their site and also ended up throwing a new manual steering box in the cart too.
We’re kind of hoping to get everything sorted out and ready to advertise/sell with the red body in the next couple of weeks. Of course, it looks like the monsoon season has started so my backs acting up again, like mom told me “getting old ain’t for sissies”.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7100a079_c.jpggreen car by M Patterson, on Flickr
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my 54 ford truck.
As mentioned we got the BB K member in the red car last weekend. I spent most of the week removing the trunk mounted battery wiring and the Terminator wiring harness from the green car to get it ready to sell with the red car.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...76bc9e68_z.jpgz RC2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
This weekend was getting the modified K member in the Green car, the big brown truck came by and dropped off a new set of PST “103” torsion bars and 20:1 steering box so basically the front suspension is done.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5cf867c9_z.jpgZ GC by M Patterson, on Flickr
We’re just about ready to push the red car out of the shop and put it up for sale. We put the hood from the Green car on it and went ahead and changed out the deck lids. The deck lids both need to be stripped down to the bare metal before there painted but the green car’s had been drilled for a power cut off switch which I won’t be needing. In the process of changing the deck lids we found out the torsion bars used to hold the lid up had been improperly installed so we took the time to straighten that out (always a lot of fun).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7efe7224_z.jpgz RC by M Patterson, on Flickr
With the holiday this week I probably won’t make that much progress but a little down time’s not a bad thing.
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Enjoy the holiday week, Mike! Thanks for posting the update.
Making good progress.
I spent the last couple of weeks getting the parts car ready to advertise; sorting/cleaning, deciding what can go with the car and taking pictures.
Finally got it posted to Craigslist yesterday and I’ve got a couple more places to advertise it on today.
If anybody is interested it’s listed at: https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/...766193987.html
Already got the text from someone who claims to be interested in it, but wants me to run a vin report on it from some unknown pay site……yeah….NO.
We got the 3rd member out last weekend and I was pleasantly surprised to find when the builder had set up the rear end he had replaced everything with new; brake drums, aftermarket Axles, “Green” axle bearings. The differential had been set up with new bearings and 4.10 gears…..and that’s where everything went to crap. Unfortunately who ever set up the gears either didn’t have a clue, didn’t care, or who knows. The pattern was way off and they had managed to ruin a new set of gears.
It had howled like a banshee on the test drive so I was expecting what I’d found. I was going to do a gear change to 4.30 anyway so it was no big deal in the scheme of things.
I had ordered the 4.30s when we determined what carrier we had (turned out to be the heaviest duty one of those commonly available). I ended up falling into a great deal on the new 4.30 Richmond gears. When I started looking for them the average price seemed to start around $325 and went up from there. Amazon had a set of Richmond Gears for $120 !!!!! Yeah I know, sounded too good to be true. I really debated on ordering them and would not have been surprised if they came in a plain white box, were factory seconds or counterfeits but I also figured it could also be old or mis-pricing. With Amazons’ return policy I figured what the heck and order a set. When they came in I checked them over with a fine tooth comb and everything seems legit, the box perfectly matched an old Richmond Gear box I had and all the stampings were correct. Honestly I don’t have the patience to set up rear ends and couldn’t stand long enough to do it anyway, so I sent them over to the guy who I trust to set up rear ends and the gears patterned nicely. Anyway out of curiosity I checked Amazon the other day and surprise……they are now listing the gears at $320.
Anyway I got a call yesterday and the third member was done so it’ ready to go back in the 68 next Sunday.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...715e7657_z.jpg489 430 by M Patterson, on Flickr
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Now that's a proper for sale ad, wish more people understood the principle of thorough description.