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Just know that softer shifts mean the bands are slipping when engaging which means more wear. You'd be better off altering your pressure on the skinny pedal as it approaches shifts, and keep the tighter shifts for longer life of the tranny internals.
Well Bruce Orlandi works fast and this morning he replaced a Convette servo with a regular V8 sedan servo in the 700R4. Now the low-to-second shift is still firm but less than the sudden jerk it was before. There is still a chirp on hard acceleration so I think I will keep this set up for a while and learn to drive with it
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
That is welcome news Don. Glad you're motoring while it's warm..
It does appear that a great many pictures have been deleted from the Forum but what is the policy? Is there some date after which the pictures are removed? I realize that pictures take up more disk space than text and that there are lot of new members but should there be some announcement of the policy?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
You need to ask Brent and/or Mr. Bill those questions... there is a thread going right now about forum issues and Bill has posted in that thread, maybe catch his eye there or PM him?
Well let us see if I can post a new picture. I did order the suggested rubber boot for the alternator wire but it is way too big for the very tight space between the front corner of the bock and the alternator (as installed by the guy who insisted that I have an electric water pump or he would not guarantee the transmission!). OK I got the picture here for anyone who might want to see it. The rubber boot is in the clear box in top of my horn so you can see the size. In addition you can see the edge of the Radio Shack perf board wrapped with several layers of electrical tape between the alternator and the shoulder of the SBC block. Due to a recent tuneup by Bruce Orlandi including new plugs, a new starter and a new battery the car started easily and ran great on a short test run. Bruce Orlandi also swapped out the Corvette pressure module that came with the "Eat-My-Shift" 700R4 and replaced it by a Chevrolet sedan unit. It still shifts hard with a chirp going into second on hard acceleration but the jerk is less sudden than before. I think I will keep it this way because it still has a little "Hot Rod" acceleration with the chirp but the jerk on the passenger(s) is less severe than before!
Don Shillady (two "ll" )
Retired Scientis/teen rodder
Well.... you did get the picture up!! LOL..:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Encouraged by the posting of the picture of my necessary innovation with the perf board insulator I will try to post a few more pictures. Due to the obvious ugly-but-necessary perf board insulator I will only open the other side of the hood at local car shows! Now to try to bring back a few key pictures that were erased by whoever? As you cannot see what I tried to post either I am blocked or did not send them correctly.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
34-40 I tried to bring back just one or two previous pictures but I get a note that says to drag them to where?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Just curious, but couldn't you insulate the connection at the alternator with electrical grade silicone?
You would need to disconnect the battery while applying it and until it cures completely (about 48hrs), after it is cured you can trim it with a razor blade. I usually tape the surrounding areas off first before applying, with a little diligence and patience you could have a good looking insulated connection that you wouldn't have to worry about.
Just a thought.
IF you're doing what I think you are doing, you would drag them from the top to the bottom, but if they've been deleted before, you won't see any picture...Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
I think that's why your latest pic shows up. it hadn't been deleted from the site.
36 Sedan,
yes that idea has come to me but you have pointed out there would need to be some sort of cup or tape barrier to form a temporary mold for the putty while it sets up. I note that that type of putty exudes acetic acid while it cures which might not be good for alternator windings. Maybe it is better to mold a "dog bone" piece of transparent putty outside the engine so the acetic will not effect the alternator. I do appreciate your suggestion since that may be the ultimate answer. Another wild idea is to use one of those preformed rubbery toe separators used by women who suffer from the effects of pointed toe shoes. Let me try one more new/old post by changing the name of the picture since I really would like to get a picture of my roadster in this thread. Well I tried to load two pictures. One is a picture of my roadster with the name changed and the other is of the drag car owned and raced by Bruce Orlandi which I previously posted and was erased. I will try again with just the renamed picture.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Here is an attempt to post a picture of my roadster which has been erased using a different name. Well that did not work so just changing the name of the previously posted and erased pictures cannot be used. The obvious answer is to go out to the garage and take some new pictures!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
the difficulty of posting pictures is really hampering this site--------every body has pics to post, but seems no one is interested in having them do it---------posted with out an ego per Bill's request
Well I took some new pictures to document my roadster which took about seven years to build and which benefited from many suggestions from this Forum. I do not know what is going on with Jerry Clayton on this site/thread, but I have found his suggestions very helpful! Now let me try to post some new pictures of my roadster. Hooray! There it is! Let me add pictures of my interior.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder