Again, you are confused. I’ll try to explain and answer your questions:
I do know that V=iR so I was wondering where there was some resistance for the given amp limits to provide a lower coil (+) voltage when running.
You are referring to OHM’s LAW, here is a link that will help you understand it better; https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...e-and-ohms-law
Try to understand that OHM’s LAW does not apply to current ratings, but rather current loads. Let me explain, a resistor given its value will provide a current load in a circuit and OHM’s LAW applies here. A switch has contacts that are rated to carry a maximum load, OHM’s LAW does not apply here, as there is no load to the circuit. The switches contacts only need to be rated at a higher load than circuit attached to the switch.
Thus my Pertronix Flamethrower coil (1.5 amps) which was matched to the Pertronix kit has been getting the straight 14-11 volts while running with the rejuvenated higher voltage from the alternator.
You are confusing resistance with current, two completely different things.
Perhaps my new found voltage with the Jones 5" pulley for the alternator drive is now producing a higher voltage to the coil resulting in near failure at first and now total engine stall.
Your Pertronix Flamethrower coil has an internal ballast and does not require any other resistor. Are you sure the coil is the cause of the failure? Have you tested the coil?
In particular there are indeed TWO (+) wires to the (+) terminal with the second (red) wire coming over the engine from a starter connection and the other (pink) wire coming directly from the ignition switch.
Yes, you could have two wires to the coils positive. One could be the starter wire (which would bypass the ballast) and one could be the ignition which could of had a ballast resistor that was removed or bypassed when the flamethrower was installed as it has internal ballast. Or, one of the wires attached to the coil (+) could be going to the distributor for the ignitor.
I think I get it now, the pink wire should have the ballast resistor inserted in it since the Pertronix coil is rated at the same 1.5 amp resistance as the recommended Crane coil for the XR1 kit.
Forget about the wire color, it has nothing to do with resistance. Again, you are referring to 1.5 amps when it should be 1.5 ohms. I’m not sure that is correct for the Flamethrower either as it has internal ballast. I believe you’re blending the Pertronix and Crane stuff together (keep them separated).
Part of the problem has been that it was almost three years ago that I finally finished the wiring AND NOW I can't find the circuit diagram so I have to follow each wire the hard way. Sooooo, my conclusion is with that switch and a plain copper "pink" coil wire you DO have to use a ballast resistor (I have at present a 1.6 ohm ceramic resistor)
Yes, your coil needs ballast. BUT, first you need to make sure it does not have internal ballast, if you double the ballast the coil will not operate correctly at all.
and that using the above mentioned universal key ignition starter from Speedway the wire to the starter solenoid gives the full 12 v for hotter spark during brief starting.
All pre electronic ignition switches are configured this way, it is not exclusive to SPEEDWAY.
Looking back, the reason I did not need a ballast resistor with the Pertronix kit was because my alternator was putting out a low voltage but when I improved the alternator rpm the higher voltage ruined the un-ballested coil.
NO, less voltage is not a substitute for ballast, the coil’s current would still runaway and burn up shortly. While the ballast resistor does drop the voltage (OHM’s LAW), wired in series causes it to limit the current the circuit can draw (OHM’s LAW)
Perhaps I could just replace the coil and insert the ballast resistor to keep the Pertronix kit but the XR1 kit looks sturdier to me.
Perhaps it would be better to trouble shoot and find the actual cause before throwing parts and money at it. Have you tested to see if it is a spark related failure?
Thanks for several suggestions. I am comforted to hear from 34-40 that he has changed his ignition system several times and other suggestions have been helpful to solve this problem "by committee" and that is the good thing about this Forum.
I now think I understand the circuits better and note that I bought the "It's-A-Snap" wiring harness because of the hand-holding advice phone number. It now seems that the same wiring harness is available from Speedway with the same "pink" wire and Speedway is still in business capable of answering questions. Probably there is some main manufacturer of the 20-harness and it is marketed by various aftermarket vendors.
So Speedway has a reliable ignition switch which is truly "universal" and it will work with the harness from several vendors since the same pink wire code has come up with all of the vendors I have chatted with.
All pre electronic ignition switches are configured this way, it is not exclusive to SPEEDWAY.
P.S. I note that the (+) terminal on the coil is a source of electrons which are negative as noted on another Internet chat room. Having spent some 30 years studying electrons as negative particles makes me pause when electricians refer to a source of "juice" as positive but now I think I have sorted this out!
STOP!, with the electron flow theory, you will only confuse yourself more.