Thread: For Don Shilady

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I could of used some of your Nitromethane stuff back in the 1970s when we'd rent adjoining motel rooms at the outta town races and would ice down our nitro to 30* which would give us equal to 108% because it varied 2% per 10*f--------------we had to keep dragster and funnycar tanks covered with a towel so peeps couldn't see the frost formed on polished alum tanks

Hello Jerry,

I have been busy (?) watching TV in the cold months but it sure feels good to hear from you and others on the Forum and there are signs of early Spring-like days here in Virginia to the point of seeing a few convertibles with their top down, but then we alternate with the next freezing rain. Regarding nitro-methane that offers one of the curious features of theoretical calculations for what are called computer experiments "in silico". However I was fortunate to have a wet chemistry lab during my career and I taught an experimental course while my main research was computer calculations. I was repeatedly surprised when I did real experiments and made sure they worked in the lab course so the number of times I/we flirted with poisonous gases and cyanide solutions means I was lucky that I did use normal safety precautions. Thus I really appreciate your comments about the care required to use "nitro" fuel. By the way one of my last messages from you recommended the last year of LS SBC blocks that would accept most of my '76 block equipment but that message was removed somehow. Tell me again what is the last year for a junkyard LS SBC compatible with my 1976 SBC? Keep in touch and let's hear more stories about the use of "nitro". I have always been fascinated by the engine rebuilds between rounds and the risk of an error that might explode the supercharger or drop the crank on the track. You are the person with a vast experience so lets hear more stories!

Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist, Teen Rodder

power amps need their own feed right off the batt . there is no wire in a harness that can power a 400 amp power amp .

Thevanins theorem states power in equals power out.

It is not possible to continuous power 400 amp load unless you have 400A Source. I'm thinking it would take dual alternators.

A MAJOR consideration for a high power source is to address the batteries as a load. If the batteries get low, say from a difficult start or running that monster amp with engine off: then you start the car and actually feed it 400A continuous, the battery will explode. Therefore you need a bank of batteries so the combined cells can safely absorb the power.

When you are dealing with that much power the entire system must be robust.

Regarding the speakers i will have to check the wattage but they are not large boomers. I have had that system for about three years but never used it until now so one solution is not to use it much until i can figure it out. I am more interested in discussion of 1.6 ratio rockers. Here is the data on my present Blue Racer A cam:

HYDRAULIC - Smooth idle, good low end torque,
economy and throttle response. Use as stock
replacement.
BASIC RPM 1000-3200
Street CD194-11C 975213
C37-16
99277-16
C817C-16
194
204
256
262 112 .000
.000
.398
.420

The lifters I have are the simple roller type as are the present 1.5 rockers on the engine at present. They are steel so there is no gain due to lighter aluminum rockers but for intake I will get (1.6/1.5)x0.398=0.4245 and for exhaust the 1.6 rockers will produce (1.6/1.5)x0.420=0.448 lift and a small increase in duration. This looks like a worth while change at low cost to me.

Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist, Teen Rodder

400 watt ... sorry .

Oh, 400 watt. Much easier. 33 amp peak, calculated as true power.

most all amps over 400 watt come with their own power lead and maxi fuse .

IF;
Your electrical system can not supply enough current to operate your stereo and wipers correctly at the same time.

IMAGINE;
What it is doing for your ignition system and motor performance.

JUST SAYING;
Besides being safer, fixing your electrical system may also allow your motor to operate better.

Sometimes the simple is overlooked, all done..............

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

IF;
Your electrical system can not supply enough current to operate your stereo and wipers correctly at the same time.

IMAGINE;
What it is doing for your ignition system and motor performance.

JUST SAYING;
Besides being safer, fixing your electrical system may also allow your motor to operate better.

Sometimes the simple is overlooked, all done..............

Truer words are rarely spoken!

That's what works for me on many forums / sites.

Originally Posted by 34_40

That's what works for me on many forums / sites.

What he said.

For Those Who May Be Interested,
The cause of demise of the wiper motor was tracked down to my mistake in connecting BOTH the radio system AND the wiper motor to the same 15 amp circuit! There are several higher amp paths in the circuit and I wanted to keep the wiper motor on the 15 amp circuit and use one of the non-used 40 amp circuits for the radio/amplifier system but no space could be found on the block connecor except a 30 amp circuit for the radio/amplifier circuit so for now playing the radio will be a $58 gamble on replacing another wiper motor, but the radio is on a separate circuit. The original intention was to allow playing the radio on the "accessory" key position when the motor is not running but that is still a foolish capability since it will run down the battery anyway! I got that idea from a "hotrod circuit" diagram without thinking through the current load. I am still not sure 30 amps is enough for the radio/amplifier system but at least the wiper motor is alone on its own 15 amp circuit. Live and learn! Since the wiper is necessary for Virginia inspection I had help from Bruce Orlandi at Performance Transmissions in Ashland Va. Now the car is inspected for the coming warm weather.
Unfortunately plans for a cam change have to be put off because Bruce also had to replace the front disk brakes and the oil seal on the transmission of my daily driver 1998 Pontiac convertible requiring a depletion of my "fun funds" for the immediate future. However I would still like to hear from the "Techinspector" regarding choice of a Howard cam.

Still Learning,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/Teen Rodder

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

However I would still like to hear from the "Techinspector" regarding choice of a Howard cam.

Don, I will be pleased to help, but I don't remember your combination. Can you help me a little?

Cubic inches
Static compression ratio
Primary use, street, street and drag or what
Transmission type
How many gears if stick, 3, 4, 5, 6
How many gears if auto 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Converter stall rpm if auto
Rear differential gear ratio
Flat tappet, aftermarket roller or OEM roller
.

Well the weather is finally summer and the roadster seems to be running fine after I discovered I could clean out the carb the easy way with a few squirts of ether. Evidently, the combination of sitting over the winter months and a few gallons of stored stale gas really messed up the carb for a while. When nearly running out of gas I used a few gallons of gas that was stored in the lawn mower shed over the winter and the engine really did not like that stuff! Fortunately a can of Seafoam and setting the idle up to 950 solved the problem and it has been running so good that I can postpone a cam change or aluminum heads a little while longer. However, the Vega steering box is really annoying. I had a second brand new Vega box installed along with a new drag link and if you tighten the worm gear to eliminate the slack, parking the car is a real chore. If you let more slack in the steering you have to constantly correct the path when driving. My big 2011 Impala and my little 1998 Sunfire both steer steady as a rock easily due to the rack and pinion setup. I don't see much on this Forum for Model A rack and pinion setups even though the Speedway unit has been available since about 2015. I found one picture of a deuce frame with the Speedway unit on the HAMBE site but is there anyone here with pictures and/or experience with the Speedway unit? I am considering spending what funds I have this year on the Speedway rack and pinion unit but there are some negative comments here and there about this unit among some raves about easier steering and more precise control. In my opinion the Vega box may be OK for a Vega with a light engine but with a 550 pound SBC it is terrible in my experience. Comments please!

Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder