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Ok, here is the secret (well actually it's an old secret) to hauling a$$ through the turns, STP. Yep, that stuff for the motor. Smear a little on the track just before the turns the width of the rear tires, it helps you slow down fast and (heres the secret part) it adds traction to the tires through the remainder of the turn (works best with foam tires). Cleans off the tires and track with naphtha and if the STP is a little too sticky, thin it with a little naphtha first.
Through the different radius of turns, they have radius' 1-4 that will work together to make a 4 lane. Then, they have a connector for adding multi-lanes..... The lady at the hobby store showed me the stuff I would need. Oh yeah, she also suggested an aftermarket transformer to keep the power equal on all the lanes. Take a look at Carrera North America's web site, they've got the goodies and links to lots more trick stuff you can do!!!! Afraid this stuff might be as addictive as crack cocaine!!~!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
I warned you. Its as bad if not worse than hot rodding.
Oh well, always room for one more addiction!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Dare I mention G gauge? Isn't G gauge 1/22.5 so that's pretty close to the 1/24th slot cars. Plus they are large and cool.
When my boys were 6 & 7 years old I got a small G gauge set for Christmas and I end up playing with it every year..nice and big!
I considered G gauge, just too big for the area I have I think....
Sounds awesome, Dave! I can't wait to see pictures of this project coming together!
After many delays and some planning, I have the new walls framed up for our "playroom". Room ended up about 20' long, 14' wide at the widest point. Some funny angles because of the way the basement is built. The adjoining room is 15' X 15'. It will be for some model railroad stuff, and have storage and a workbench.
The basement has always been nice and dry, but I painted the cement walls with a waterproof paint made for basement walls anyway, and am now wondering what I should use for insulation on the new walls. Because of how uneven the basement walls are (originally a rock and stone basement re-done in concrete I ended up using 2 X 4's to fir out the original walls. Walls will sheetrocked when I figure out the best product to use for insulation. Some say just use styrofoam, others say the hi-dollar stuff that Home Depot and the like sell is worth the extra money???? Wondering what some of you thought what I should use--if anything????
I used a foam board, foil faced.. and then before adding the sheet rock, I used a small mill plastic sheet as an additional vapor barrier, "just because".. and since we were doing a damp basement, we used cement board. HTH.
Our house was done with blown in cellulose, which goes on like wet paper and dries pretty dense. Our basement is walkout, and the utility area is on the "deep" side of the house, so the insulated concrete walls are minimal. My son did his entire basement, poured concrete walls, and he did 2x4 stud walls and 3.5" rolled fiberglass with barrier, stapled to the studs. Blue board is another approach, but it's not cheap.
NOT CHEAP but very good (after studed) the spray foam. If your fighting room you could used the studs flat instead of 1.5 out use them 3.5 out. I would used the vinyl sheet over the studs as vapor barrier with fiber glass insulation. The more insulation the easier to heat.
Thanks for the input, think I'll just go with 'glass insulation and vapor barrier. Seems to work for everyone else. The basement is warm in the winter now, but insulation certainly won't hurt anything!!!!
Dave, since you basically built stud walls and stood them up I think you're decision is the right way to go. Fairly easy to get the rolls downstairs where you need them and you may even have a bit of air space behind the glass in those "uneven" spots. I've seen guys try to glue their 2x4's (or even 2x2's) to the concrete with construction adhesive, and then wonder why their walls "look crooked". Rolls w/vapor barrier is the best DIY choice, IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Careful with using standard plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier, plastic sheeting can create a moisture barrier and cause condensation to form inside the walls, which can lead to dry rot.
And mold which is no fun.........Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan