Have any of you used the one piece pan gasket with the metal core? I'm putting an aluminum pan on my 265 which as you know has the two piece rms. Any good or bad experiences?
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Have any of you used the one piece pan gasket with the metal core? I'm putting an aluminum pan on my 265 which as you know has the two piece rms. Any good or bad experiences?
does your 265 have an oil filter?????????
That's what I've got on my SBF with chrome pan. I like them, taking away concerns with the corner joints on the gaskets. The FelPro set came with a set of four nifty retainer/guide pins which made holding the gasket in place and setting the pan drop dead simple. Pins are tapered with a notched base, so the pan slips over them and when pressed up the notches hold it while you get bolts in place. Easy & painless, and no leaks to date.
Yes it has an oil filter.
We have seen many more issues with the oil pans more so than the gaskets used-----------
early 265 didn't have oil filter so the pan/gasket could be different in that area
Only in 55 JerryQuote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
OK-------is it a 55?
or one of the newer 56s???
Why does it matter? It's a 265 w/ oil filter, and he needs to ensure that the cast aluminum pan purchased fits the block. What else matters?Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Why does it matter??????????well if its a 55 without oil filter on that part of block--the oil pan won't have the gasket surface area formed correctly for that one piece gasket as I don't think they have a one piece for them---also---there are various gasket kits out there that have a thicker front/rear curver area where they fit the front cover and could cause some issues-----
The OP posted asking about experience with the gasket and also mentioned the aluminum pan---I responded about experience with issues concerning both ---------AND asked politely( I Thought) about if it was a block with or without a oil filter. This poster has had a mixed group of posts about rebuild mentioning 283, 265 etc etc-------and I wanted not only to alert him but to be able to give him a more positive accurate answer.
Look at Post #4, Jerry. Question asked and answered.
I believe the pans come in two configurations. 55 to 79 and 80 and newer. There is a difference in the front gaskets I believe. I bought this pan for the early block off ebay but Speedway sells the same pan so I think it will be OK. If not back it goes. My question was how good are the one piece gaskets. I'm going to purchase the Felpro item Roger mentioned.
Roger, since you always answer my question I have another one for you. I want to put a mini starter on my truck. I have an adapterplate between the engine and trans to use a stock starter. Do you know of a ministarter that bolts to the bellhousing rather than the engine? The stock starter is right against the header and I think eventually the heat will get to it. I'm thinking buying a ministarter that bolts to the block then redrilling it to mount it to the adapter plate.
Tom,Quote:
Originally Posted by TomJ
It's been too many years since I messed with a small block chevy! I would probably give the guys at Summit Racing a call and see if they can guide you to the best starter for that application. A quick look at Summit's starter's this one - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...et?prefilter=1 looks promising, but I'd probably call and ask the guys who sell them every day and see what they recommend.
I would use the stock starter and insulate it with heat wrap. I had a 75 Duster with the same problem and the heat wrap did the trick.
I would not wrap the starter that would allow it to hold heat. Wrap the pipes instead
Not sure that you need it with the 265 or not, but some of the "mini's" tend to be significantly higher torque than stock, from what I've seen.
I have the header pipe wrapped now but I think it would look better to have the mini starter rather than the pipe wrapped.
I have ceramic coated headers on it now and I think a chrome plated mini starter would look better. The trans dipstick is going away and a cutdown stock dipstick will take its place. Plus I'm changing the heads, the intake, the pan and front cover and cleaning up the wiring some.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/attachment...swap-eng31.jpg
Tom,
Doing a bit more "surfing" and it's sounding like all of the Chevy mini starters are block mount. I'd still probably call Summit, Jegs and/or Speedway to see what they say.
I think Roger is correct - seems to me they're all block mounted. That said, the smaller starter is actually a bit further from the heat source and you may not have an issue. I'd be inclined to install a quality mini and see what you get. I've used a few of them with vehicles using headers and have not had a heat issue.
Not sure that the 265ci SBC is drilled & tapped for the block mount?Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsexton
The 265 is not drilled and tapped for a starter but I think a mini could be drilled to bolt it to the adapter plate that the original stater is mounted on.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/data/500/cc7.jpg
Tom,
That may be your only option. Looking at both Rock Auto & NAPA for on-line listings, neither lists a starter for a '56 Chevy 265 engine, only parts to rebuild the OEM starter.
why not just drill and tap the block?
The factory fixture indexing holes are located on that pan rail and its easy to make a simple drill jig that locates from those two holes and use some transfer punches to transfer location for starter holes from a later block and then use that to drill tap your 265 block---altho there won't be the reinforcing boss on the early block, I haven't had any issues on the ones I've done-------
Jerry, that is probably the best way to go. I'll check that out. It might be a little tricky to do upside down under the truck but with a magnetic base drill it might not be so bad.
Food for thought: You realize of course that unless the holes are perfectly aligned you are going to have major bendix gear alignment.
You need to make a drill jig dowelled to those two fixture jigs, use a drill bushing for tap size drill and another for the tap size---won't need a magnetic base drill, you can do it by hand thru the guide bushings and it should be exact---you just probably won't be able to drill out that relievf space where the knurled part of a standard starter bolt fits---but should be just as good and maybe much better than drilling the starter mount to bolt to that trans adapter
Jerry that sounds easy enough. Do you happen to have one of these jigs from a past job i could borrow or buy?
I had one and someone borrowed it evidently as I can't find it, but if I could you d be welcome to it
They have a bare block at the machine shop I can take off a pattern from. Maybe use a 3/8 plate for the jig. Mic all the hole locations and sizes. I can bolt the drill bushings and plate to that block then weld the bushings in place. Place a sleve for the drill in the bushingsThen after drilling the holes in my block I can remove the sleves from the bushings and cut them down some if need be for the tapping. That will allow me to get rid of the adapter plate.
I checked out the block at the machine shop and made a pattern for the starter holes. I see a company called Goodson sells a jig for this but at $105 I think I will make my own. I havn't looked yet but I think the outside bolt hole may be there already.
Call Goodson and ask them who in your area has one-------
Tom,
I could be wrong, as the description says that the "kit" includes three plates, but it looks to me like that Goodson tool is only meant to drill the single inner mounting hole, not both/all holes; and that it's held in place by bolts through the "other" two holes. That may be all you need, but my impression was that you needed both mounting holes drilled & tapped? Picture & description - GOODSON : Short Block Rebuilding : Chevy Starter Drill Jig If I'm wrong, someone please correct me and explain how it works.
Roger, That does seem to be the case. The instructions made it sound like in some cases the outer bolt hole is already there. I heard something like that before at the HAMB. Anyway I'm getting real comfortable with this and don't think i will have any problems.
Got the mini-starter installed and it seems to work fine.
Good deal, Tom! Thanks for coming back and closing the loop. So you ended up with a home built jig to guide your drill for the two holes, and were able to do it from underneath the car without any issues?Quote:
Originally Posted by TomJ
Roger, after removing the stock starter I found that the block was cast in such a way that there was only a place for the inside bolt. As I mentioned before I had installed an adapter plate to bolt the stock starter to, so as to be able to use it with the 700R4 tranny. I clamped the new starter to this plate in the proper position leaving a .040 clearence between the starter gear and flexplate gear. I then drilled the block using a 5/16 drill bit with a bushing on it for the 3/8 starter bolt hole. Tapping it was easy. Then I drilled and tapped two holes in the adapter plate to the starter. This makes a strong mount that seems to work fine. I did it under the truck and it took about three hours.
Did you wear safty glasses???????????????hearing protection??????????Jack stands???????????????or like in the days back when those blocks were newer---park it over a small ditch------------
Yes to safety glasses and jackstands no to the ear protection. Lucky I didnt get a shaving in my ear....heh
yep---them hot chips in the ear causes a neck snappin head jerk that will bend the front suspension pieces-------