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here's the story. all new disc/disc set up from cpp . booster/mc/proportioning valve . all came as a kit. low spongy pedal. over a qrt of fluid bleed through it. rear ebrake adjusted tight . already replaced the mc but still crappy brakes. dont see how any air could still be present. any ideas ?
this will be the last CPP part to ever hit my shop. the new aluminu mc was full of shavings.
hand bleed, vac bleed, power bleed , bench bleed . 4 wheel disc. all new parts. ebrake adjusted , all new lines. pedal is soft and on the floor .
There was a run of thru-frame fittings that were fabricated with a larger ID tube, then smaller holes through the AN fitting and where the hard line screwed in on the inside. Created a large void to trap air in the middle that was about impossible to get out. Just a thought...
CPP set up for 56 chevy . came assembled in a box. booster/mc/proportioning valve. spongy low pedal. rolled the dice and replaced the mc . new cpp aluminum mc . full of metal shavings .
check the clearance on the mc. just about at the end if the rope.
has a 10 bolt disc rear. all new parts. ebrake adjusted . will spend the day chasing this. again . if i cant find it then the fancy after market crap comes off. will find an s10 to rob parts from .
they have had a lot of problems with their stuff. i dont think they make any of it.
going to look for an s10 set up. they have never failed me before.
calling just ends up pissing me off. has to be something i did. cant be their product. never had a problem . bla bla bla . seems to be getting worse all the time. just cant seem to find quality parts anymore.
[QUOTE=shine;567640]they have had a lot of problems with their stuff. i dont think they make any of it.
going to look for an s10 set up. they have never failed me before.
calling just ends up pissing me off. has to be something i did. cant be their product. never had a problem . bla bla bla . seems to be getting worse all the time. just cant seem to find quality parts anymore.[/QUOTE
Shine, I toured their facility 4 or 5 years ago and they do design & manufacture many of their own parts. I can't vouch for this particular brake kit. I know phone calls can be a pain in the butt but in my limited experience with this company, they seemed to want to make things right. I totally understand your frustration though! CPP Story
Shine and Others------when doing a complete brake fab and install these days I use those speed bleeder screws with the check valves in them-can usually bleed entire system by myself(sometimes wife helps) in just 10-15 minutes----
another issue----------you didn't use any Teflon tape on any fittings ??????????
no , no teflon. i have gravity bled many. i have even power bled this one. just cant believe there is air in it. over a qrt has gone through it.
i has brakes but just crappy. low spongy pedal. never a hard pedal and no way it will lock up .
On my Corvette I have had issues bleeding it out. Once we used a power bleeder it works much better. Jacking it up in the nose helps too. I'm not exactly sure where the air trapping component is. I just figured it wanted to be a pain in the ass about something else. :LOL:
I have the WORST luck bleeding MCs. I just can never seem to get the air out.
The only thing that seems to get out the final bubbles:
With cover off the MC and someone watching, VERY slowly press the pedal to the floor. Then release quickly. Do it at least ten times. If your assistant hasn't seen bubbles by then, the MC is fully bled.
Shine, Just a stab here but If this kit uses the GM metric calipers with the internal disc brake they take special setup, I fought this a bit until I found instructions, that where not with my kit, I found some on Master Powers web site at http://www.mpbrakes.com/docs/orig-gu...STRUCTIONS.pdf the thing is, as you know most of this stuff is rebracketed OEM parts, so they are tried and proven to some extent, and as you also know customer service in this country left awhile back, so finding out whats wrong anymore is pretty much left to the consumer. Best of luck Matt
Shine, MatthyJ's post jogged my memory. If they are GM metric calipers, some of them used a bias cut seal that retracted the piston further than a normal square cut one. The cars were equipped with a "fast take up" MC that had 2 chambers for the front brakes and moved more fluid for the initial take up. Supposed to cut brake friction for better fuel mileage. A normal MC won't move enough fluid to get the pistons out to the rotors properly. With your experience, you probably already knew that, but I thought I would bring it up. If CPP is getting calipers from an outside supplier, they may have gotten the high retraction seals by mistake. The metric calipers are available both ways.
10 bolt disc rear from a firebird. 78 i think. standard gm calipers. the rear pads are touching the rotors. that was my first thought . ebrake holds well.
pedal is 2 in off floor. not really a hard pedal . car will stop but very little power . will not lock them up. bad part is i have found threads on problems with every piece of this set up. bad booster, bad mc , bad proportioning valves. the new aluminum mc was full of shavings.
going today to pull an s10 unit . i have used them on all kinds of builds. work great . i've messed with this for the last month . hard to make a living like this.
factory replacement . 2 hard lines with an l shape loop on them . :(