Project $ 3 K Is Underway

What I would give for a couple of those cool days you guys are talking about. It was still 91 here yesterday, and it's mid-October. :eek:

Denny, if I look at your drawing correctly, are you showing TWO seperate connections on the starter, one in blue and one in red? Mine only has the fat battery lug and a small lug for the start signal to trigger it.

If you are showing only one, that in essence is what I did, except I connected my wire to the coil side of the resistor rather than down on the starter.

Don

Welcome to the dark side....:LOL:

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Originally Posted by DennyW

OH, WAIT, YOUR RUNNING A FORD ENGINE IN THERE !! :LOL: :LOL: All these Chevy guys have my brain on Chevy. :LOL: :LOL:

The Ford solenoid should have 2 small terminals on it. If not, that would be the type I would run. Yes, the starter only has the one big lug ? for the battery cable ?

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No, I'm talking about my car, not Don's, he has the Ford, mine is Chevy. But I have the Powermaster starter and it doesn't have the normal two little lugs like a stock Chevy starter does. It only has one big lug for the cable and a small one for the start position on the ignition switch to go to.

Don

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DennyW

Not following that very well Don. The starter has one big lug, got that. So where is the solenoid at ?

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It is part of the starter. I'm heading to the shop now, and will take a picture for you and post it tonight.

Thanks Denny,

Don

Hopefully this helps Pops, see page two; http://www.powermastermotorsports.co..._GMMiniSta.pdf

I have the stock Chevy starter and the old style (points & coil) distributor on my coupe and had it wired exactly like Denny's diagram. I have used this same method in the past, too. For some reason, though, this time when I did my coupe I had the same problem Don is talking about. When I turned the key to "start", the ballast resistor glowed bright orange!:eek: :eek: Eventually it damaged the ballast resistor and melted the wire between the coil & solenoid.:mad:

I have never had one do that before and don't know why it did it, but I just took that wire out of the system (& replaced the ballast resistor) and the car starts fine on 6 volts.;)

One last note; if you use a GM HEI distributor it requires a full 12 volts all the time and the ballast resistor & auxiliary start wire are eliminated.:3dSMILE:

Thanks Bob, I read page two and it says they have a diode kit to rectify the problem. My distributor came with no instructions, it was one of my purchases at Daytona last year from some vendor there. I wish I knew if it needed a resistor , but I guess I just have to try running it and see if it diminishes performance with it in there. If if does, I'll just pop it out of the circuit. I have been running the car on full 12 volts, but was afraid to do that for any extended period.

JR, yep, you shoulda seen the smoke coming from mine ! :eek: I guess that diode kit keeps the current from going to a dead short ground. I like the way this Powermaster cranks the engine, but I've had my fair share of issues with it.

BTW, today we got a whole lot accomplished. Don and I worked on his T and Dan worked on finished up my grille shell. He has about 30 hours in it already, but it is finally done, and he did a terrific job on it. He had to shorten and section it to get it to fit well, and he bead rolled two inner panels to fill in where the old ones were too small to cover the sides of my radiator. He really did a nice job on it, and now it is ready to sandblast and paint.

Don and I did a bunch of those little jobs that need done, like finishing up the brake job on the rear axle, installing his progressive linkage and Lokar kickdown and throttle linkage. Dan had fabbed up some front shock mounts for us, so we got those painted and installed and he now has shocks on the front too. Even got his skull shift knob installed. :D :D I think that was his favorite part.

Tomorrow night we are going to paint his radiator shroud and my windshield frame. The glass shop removed the old glass for me so I could do that, and then I will take it back to them to have new tinted safety plate installed. The old glass was in good shape, but was not safety plate. I stepped on the other half of the windshield one day and broke the glass in that half, and it went into a million sharp pieces. No way I was going to chance using 80 year old glass that shatters like that.

Here are some pictures of what we got done today.

Don

I'm chugging along on rust suppression, while you guys blast away on assembly! I'm envious and impressed, but I am also in my truck for the long haul, so keep up the good work it's inspiring me! P.S. if Dan gets bored send him out to California for some brake modification work:whacked: :LOL:

I had one of those skull shifter handles that had glow in the dark eyes. LOL When is Dan's body coming back from paint....can't wait to see it on the frame.
Brad

I forgot to take one Denny, sorry. I think I will be ok with just a resistor in the circuit, but if the engine doesn't start or run right I am going to have to do something else. Thanks for the help though.

Brad, it's being painted today, supposedly. Don can pick it up either tomorrow or Wednesday. We're anxious too. Obviously, I will post pictures (as you probably noticed, I'm dangerous ever since they gave me a camera :LOL: :LOL: )

I have two little leaks that have cropped up in my car. The front engine seal leaks a little, and now the shift shaft on the transmission is beginning to drip. I called Jackson Racing transmissions, but they haven't had enough time to call me back yet. Not sure how a turbo 350 is sealed in there. Problem is, there is no way this tranny can come out of the car, it is in there for good, plus it is all painted and there is no way I am going to scratch it up removing it. The front seal is something I can deal with.

Anyone know a fix. Looks to me like the pan has to come down and the shaft comes out from inside.

Don

Yes Denny, I guess that is the correct term, shift selector shaft. What does it entail to get it out and replace the seal?

Don

Don,Very simple.Remove the nut from the linkage on the trans.Seal is the size of a quarter that is pressed on just like the seal on the timing cover.There is a little tool for removing it and installing it.You may be able to get this at your local parts house or grab one off a tool truck.Just screw it in and pull the seal.Then use the smaller one to install the new one.This one is made by KD Tools.Part # KD-2993

If you have a buddy that does trans work he will have one and probably let you borrow it.

George, those are pretty nifty tools. It looks like a backyarder could make the extractor from a piece of threaded plumbing nipple, and the installer from a socket, washer, & bolt if those things weren't readily available

Cooooooooooooooooooooool George, you da man. :3dSMILE: So it is done from outside the tranny? That's good news. I called NAPA with that KD number, and they don't have it, but they have the seal, number 4912.

George, as I remember, aren't you a tool guy? Is there a SnapOn, Mac, or other number for that tool? I can go into the industrial park and chase down one of those trucks.

Thanks for that info, makes my life a lot easier.

Don

You asked and here it is.Mac Part # ATT-1001 GM Tansmission Seal Remover and Installer.
Thats a MAC TOOLS part number.Thats the one that I sell.