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Don,
Thanks for reply. I also thought that was the correct way and that was the reason I bought the shiny finished kit. I know that the roads are not as bad as when the '32 was built, but think we really need that rubber to save that expensive rad.
I'm sorry to hear about your layoff, I've been there for for most of a year and due to some health reasons, I've decided to retire (can't afford it but).
Jim
Don thanks i didn't know that of the battery this i'll write down no mental notes. Angle will be stronger then a stamped steel .
I used to watch my '32 grille shell on my '27 move around as I was bouncing down the road, and it always made me feel somewhat uneasy. There are a lot of vibrations up there, sitting right over the axle like that. I hope someone comes on and confirms that this is the way you are supposed to use that spring kit.
As for the job thing, thanks. I didn't like the way it went down, but was relieved to get away from the new company.........things were just not the same and were not going to get any better. They have now fired everyone that I worked with, except for the parts girl, and she called me the other day and says things are horrible there. Companies are so dumb, they buy something that is working and making lots of money, then they screw it up.
I have to admit, I am seriously thinking of retiring in July when I turn 62. I have a couple of people who are throwing hints my way, but I really need this time off for mental health and to get this project done. But I do miss the paychecks, that's for sure.
Don
BTw, these pictures are from oldfordmans gallery, and are part of what convinced me that the orange/gold suspension I am planning will look good. What a nice setup he has here, and how good it looks painted this way.
I love what he has done.
Don
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Yeah, the angle iron when you make a framework out of it just creates a natural cradle for the battery. you can then add whatever brackets needed to mount it and the whole thing becomes very strong. Lots of other ways to do it, but this one is cheap and beefy.
Don
Too late!!!!:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Don, I wish I could take credit for that. The A bone pickup in the pictures belongs to my friend Denny Sims. I've got to get out to his place and take update pictures of it soon. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
I concuer:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Ron: No hijack at all, we chew the fat about everything on here. :D :D No, he didn't get the TP one, I think he bought a Painless. It is still sitting in the box, and I remember seeing it on his shelves. What is going on with yours? maybe we can figure it out. I think you can go on TP website and download portions of their build book. Dan downloaded the frame section when we built Dons frame and it cost like $ 2.50 to do that.
But lets hear what is going on, and maybe we can figure it out for you.
Don[/QUOTE]
Thank's, the first issue is I suck at electrical stuff, but usually through perseverance I can get things done. The second issue is the TP harness does not use a fuse block it only has fuseable links, and they don't mark the wires as alot of companies do.
My brake lights don't work, and there were enough gauges in the car to overwelm a pilot, and then there are the mystery wires that go to nothing.
I think a schematic would work for me, and I will try the TP site. If all else fails I am looking at the Rebel Wiring harness I saw on the HAMB.
Thank's again Ron
Too late!!!!
I concuer
You guys realize I could have stayed mariied if I wanted this kind of abuse. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Ron, I was trying to find you a forum I used to look at, and I forget the exact name, but it is something like Tbuckets.com, but it is not that one exactly. It has various sections, and one is on wiring a bucket, complete with schematics. Maybe someone else on here will remember the name of it.
I looked at Tbuckets.com, and unless they changed the homepage, this is not it. Hope someone can refresh my memory.
We'll see what we can get you.
Don
Ron: You got me to thinking (Ok Bob and Charlie, take your shots :D ) you said the TP wiring kit doesn't have a fuse block, only fusable links. I don't think so. I think you have some other brand, or are missing the fuse block or don't realize it is there somewhere.
I went onto TP website, looked at their wiring kit, and it says is is made by American Autowire, and the picture shows a block. How sure are you that you have their kit? Something is wrong here.
Don
Not T Bucket specific, but lots of good information here:
http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14273/
Don
Every once in awhile I let one get by.:eek: ENJOY:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Don
Don
You weren't by any chance looking for the National T Bucket Alliance were you?
http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.c.../techindex.asp
That's a link to their tech archives.
Mke
Bingo Mike, good job. :) There is an excellent section in there about wiring with diagrams and all.
Thanks bud.
Don
Don, I wish I could take credit for that. The A bone pickup in the pictures belongs to my friend Denny Sims. I've got to get out to his place and take update pictures of it soon.
Duane, that thing is sharp. Please do get us some more pictures of it.
Don
Hey don i saw your buddy today, the one that drives the rat all over the world, we had a big preparty at the local rod shop for the guys coming for the goodguys show this weekend, and he drove in for it.
Did you get a chance to talk with Bill? He's a real trip. Good ol' Texas boy, been hot rodding all his life, owned fuel dragsters, funny cars, raced at the Nationals, has a V8 60 powered circle burner car, etc.
He LOVES that rat and isn't afraid to drive it anywhere, anytime.
That's funny that he was up there. :LOL: :LOL:
Don
You had me second guessing myself, but only for a second.:LOL: If you scroll down a liitle more you will find another wiring harness that states no fuse block needed. It's a must see for the low low price of only $275.:eek: :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
That was just a little test.......ok, you pass. :o :o :o :o
Yep, you are right. Didn't see that one, and didn't know they existed. Well, you should be able to call TP and have them fax a copy of the diagram to you or mail it. If the guy you get on the phone isn't helpful, get Mickey directly. He will take care of you, and is generally reachable.
Don
Don i'm glad you mentioned battery . I went and looked at where i started webbing and didn't leave room for one . I will have to bring it back about 6 inches from the front to allow enough for a battery to sit on frame by the trans . . Great save in time for me doing it now then later .
So............wheres my check? :D :D :D :D
Don
Send me your name SS number and bank info and i will wire transfer the money to you...........LOL
I already sent it to some guy in Egypt. Come to find out I am a descendant of King Tuts brother Billy Tut, and they have $ 10,000,000,000,000,00.21 being held for me. :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE:
And you know these guys on the internet aren't allowed to lie.:rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Don
Darn I can't make a buck even on here, notice I didn't say honest buck ............lol
Hey Don---Are you working on that thing, or just setting back and posting on the internet like some people I know (look in mirror---look in mirror). I keep tuning in for my daily "fix" and not seeing progress. If you are taking a few days off, well, you deserve them. You've been thrashing hard for a long time now.---Brian
Thrashing hard:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: I don't really think there is a project 3K !!!! Just a guy with a camera who lives next to a Hot rod shop.**) **) :3dSMILE:
I CONFESS...IT'S ALL BEEN PHOTOSHOPPED !!!! I'm a fraud. :eek: :eek: :D I'm actually a 12 year old kid who never owned a car in his life. lol
Yes, I have actually been doing some stuff, just got home, but none of it is post or picture worthy, it's all grunt work. I've been sanding and grinding the frame to make it more ready for primer, and this is not my favorite part of the build. I really respect the guys like hotrodpaint and others who do this backbreaking work day in, day out.
It is taking me longer than I thought, and mainly because I have been going over later in the day and staying late to miss some of the heat of the day. It is counter productive to be sweating onto the nicely sanded bare frame, so I am trying to avoid that.
But, I did buy all my black paint, hardners, flatteners, etc this week, so I am ready to start shooting it. I think I am going to buy a new spray gun with a large orifiice to shoot the somewhat thick primer I am using. The girl at the paint shop suggested a # 1 size, does that sound right to anyone? My existing gun shoots it on kind of dry because the orifice is too small, I think.
So that's where I am, but thanks for keeping an eye on me.
Don
Curious, Don. How far over the 3K budget is the project....????
What primer are you using? I shoot epoxy primer with a 1.6 and it works fine. a 1.0 is really small.....
Dave: As for budget, I honestly don't know, I lost track through my November, December buying spree. Just never kept track. I would guess I am somewhere between $ 8-$10,000 total outlay, and probably closer to the $ 8,000. I could go back and add up the big stuff, but there have been lots and lots of $ 50 and $100 purchases for small stuff like pieces of steel, grinding discs, thinner, bolts, etc, etc.
I am not good at watching my money, and it all got jumbled together when Christmas came and I was spending money on my Kids and the rest of the family. I know it sounds lame, but I am terrible at accounting. I may go back when it is all done and try to add up as much as I can remember. Safe to say, I didn't hit the $3,000. :o :o
As for the primer, I am shooting Nasons primer/surfacer. I know it isn't the premium paint choice, but I am comfortable with it and get pretty good results, even though I am far from a pro painter. The last time I shot the primer on the tranny it was not flowing well, which is why I had to sand and redo it. I had the same trouble when I painted my Jeep truck about 5 years ago, and the guy at the paint store loaned me his "primer gun" that had a large orifice, and it did the trick. I just figured that is what is happening here now, plus being in Florida's high heat and humidity complicates things. The primer seems to go on like sandpaper, dry when it hits the surface.
That is my logic anyway, but maybe there is something else going on. I just didn't want to have the same problem on the frame, that would be a tough one to have to redo. :eek:
Don
PS: Just reread you post, maybe she said something other that # 1. Whatever it was, it was a bigger opening than my gun.
Well hope i did my studying also Don been a long time since i did a big job . But from reading here and in books and places a 1.6 to a 1.8 is good for primers new and hvlp is fantastic tech .
Dave i hope im close because i will be getting a HP (purple) gun to shot the A and the Stang . They should give at least 2 good jobs before they wear out . I have some older model Binks, De vilbis , and a old Sharp 975 pi great for base but bad on clear.
What's the old saying? Some days you get the bear, and some days the bear gets you. Guess who won today??:( :(
Day started off great, got the frame ground and sanded one more time, Ospho'd the underside of the crossmember, and started detailing the little/ tight areas that you can't reach with a big disc grinder. Thought I noticed that my 2 month old air compressor was sounding a little noisier than usual, so I went to check on it and found a puddle of oil coming from the box we had build over it.
Long story short, the darned thing dumped all the oil in it's crankcase all over the floor and compressor. Looks like the rear seal near the pulley went, and it flung oil all over the place. Gonna have to call Eaton tomorrow and see what they say. They have always been super to deal with, so I am not anticipating any problems getting another unit, but the problem is time. I am sitting with a bare metal frame with zero rust on it now, but in Florida's 90 percent humidity, that will not last long.
I have to get some primer on it quick, and on the way home I remembered my Son Don has a small compressor that he is storing with some other stuff at the shop while he is moving, so at least I can shoot some primer on it one evening this week. Talk about bad luck, this couldn't have happened at a worse time, and will set me back a little unless they get me a new unit real quick.
The only picture I took today was of the underside of the crossmember in the rear. Since it is an 80 year old Model A, it has some pits, and was impossible to get every speck of rust out of, so I Ospho'd it to kill what I missed through grinding.
Does anyone have any suggestions about something I can put on the bare metal to keep it from rusting in the event I can't shoot it real quick? I have heard Gibbs spray, but I would have to mail order that, which would take time.
oh oh, here comes that d***** bear again.....................
Don
Don
On rusted areas that I just can't get at I use a Permatex product called Rust Treatment. When it drys its black and can be primed and painted over. Never had a problem with it.
Yeah, I've seen that one too. Most of these are some form of phosphoric acid, that converts rust into something else (I can never remember the exact names) Por 15 is another. I've used Ospho for years on boats, it is cheap and works well.
I am wondering if I should metal etch the entire frame with something like metal prep (I think that is the name) I would use the Ospho all over, but I have heard that sometimes primers and paints lift later on.
Don
I used por 15 in places with no problems in 3 yrs, the paint guy said that it worked best if you at least painted primer over it with in a short time, I waited an hour. I used etching primer everywhere else with nothing coming through yet.
Iron phosphate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Metal prep is diluted phophoric acid.
Rust Mort is another commercially available form of phosphoric acid (which you can also buy at chemical supply houses in undiluted form and make your own). I've treated cleaned steel with phosphoric acid (and/or Rust Mort) and left it sitting for a few weeks without surface rusting.
I remember some company coming out with a roll on primer that was epoxy, sandable and easy to apply. will try to find out which paint company.
Brad
Don, PPG paint has a primer OSX1060 2K that is a roll on type primer.
Brad
Charlie,Brick, Bob, and Brad, thanks for the info. If I can't get it primed in the next day with Don's compressor, I am going to do the wipe routine you guy mentioned. I'd sure hate to have to start all over again getting the surface rust off.
A lot will depend on what Eaton says tomorrow AM.
Don