37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

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Originally Posted by bluestang67

Well having trouble getting a real car finished , so I decided to get some one to do this . HA HA it's still will take a few months .

Attachment 53548

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Whoah, Bobby! That's a way bigger committment than building the car!!:LOL::LOL:
It's a good thing you have big guns or might have had to chop it more...in half!
Of course, now you'll have to keep those guns pumped up to keep the fenders from sagging when you're 80!!:):)

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Some Progress,

After several days of checking my wiring I still could not understand why my turn signals will work but not the headlights and tailights. The turn signals prove the headlights and tailights were grounded so I phoned up my friend who did some amazing circuit repairs for me when we both were working for University research. It only took him about ten minutes to find the headlight fuse was missing and then he plugged in the radio which I had wired but was not sure to apply power to. Now I have:

1. A working windshield wiper which parks automatically to hide in the oak bow.

2. Working turn signals complete with little green indicator lights on the dash.

3. A working brake light.

4. A working heater fan (two speeds).

5. A working cigar lighter suitable to recharge a cell phone or locator.

6. A working radio/CD player with "quadraphonic sound" (two speakers in the rumble/trunk and two in the cowl).

7. Working headlights with hi/low beams and tailights when the headlights are on.

Still to work out are the absence of instrument lights, the lack of a red high beam indicator, and a lack of horn response. The horn may have an incorrect relay so I will be checking that but I will be listening to the radio when I am checking the wiring from now on! After that I will have to hope my digital speedometer was not fried when I soldered the connector while attached to the digital unit. If it is fried I will have to purchase a replacement.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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That's great news Don! I'll bet you feel good about the progress now! I hope you don't need a new speedo! That reminds me, I gotta program mine! :LOL:

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Originally Posted by randyr

Whoah, Bobby! That's a way bigger committment than building the car!!:LOL::LOL:
It's a good thing you have big guns or might have had to chop it more...in half!
Of course, now you'll have to keep those guns pumped up to keep the fenders from sagging when you're 80!!:):)

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Your a better man than I Bobby! As a diabetic on insulin I have to stick needles in me for a reason. You paid someone for that pain! :eek::LOL::eek: ROFL.. It does look very nice though:) How many hours to sit for that part shown in the picture?

No one can say you aren't dedicated! HAH!:3dSMILE: Now get back to working on her! No more sitting around starin' at your arm! :LOL:**):D:)

Great news Don. When (IF?) I get back to that side of VA, I'll be looking for a ride. I'm just about ready to move mine out of the sealed up 3rd garage space in my basement so at least I'll have that ride. I do have to correct one minor error in the replacement battery wiring I just finished and maybe, just maybe - this weekend, but probably sometime next week, weather permitting

Bobby - needles make me ---- well let's say I really don't like them. Nice bit of dedication tho

lol There is no pain now days , and guys hopefully this will get the stang done so I can get on it . This was 1 1/2 hours with at least one more sitting .

Its dedicated to one of the first old tins I had . I cleaned up parts and things Sunday when it was warm . Little at a time then pppsssst air comes out and the end is done .

Randy these are Ace Derringers so the car is small !!!!

Hey Bobby, cool tat, it needs chopping, and a blown motor, go back for a makeover.......:CRY::CRY::LOL:

Nice tat! That looks really nice!

Rich it has a chop made him do that while I watched .

40 Thanks and welcome .

Continuing to sweat out my wiring, my five year old grand daughter sat in my car and played with the knobs and lo and behold the parking lights finally came on. However I cannot do it again! Does anybody recommend a better light switch than the present Speedway part No. 910-64051? I ordered another one on the chance that the first one is defective. What are you using IC2?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I am just using factory out of cars , I don't think they should be trouble .

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Continuing to sweat out my wiring, my five year old grand daughter sat in my car and played with the knobs and lo and behold the parking lights finally came on. However I cannot do it again! Does anybody recommend a better light switch than the present Speedway part No. 910-64051? I ordered another one on the chance that the first one is defective. What are you using IC2?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Most of the switches commonly used in rods are GM based. You should be able to run down to any local parts house and match up a switch with your original.

IC2 has taken a hiatus and probably won't answer soon.

I have a GM switch, but the thing that bothers me is that the running lights stay on with the headlights and since there is no seperation b/w the headlights and running lights in the bucket they bleed together. I bought a secondary switch to turn off the running lights unless I flip that switch first. Hopefully that will work for me, but have you guys run into this with a factory GM switch?

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Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe

I have a GM switch, but the thing that bothers me is that the running lights stay on with the headlights and since there is no seperation b/w the headlights and running lights in the bucket they bleed together. I bought a secondary switch to turn off the running lights unless I flip that switch first. Hopefully that will work for me, but have you guys run into this with a factory GM switch?

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I got my headlight switch from Ron Francis as part of the wiring kit. It turns off the front running lights when the headlights are on. ( I'm pretty sure it does anyway! ) and I have noticed that some switches do keep the running lights on with the headlights, and others do not. But I'm not sure if it's "manufacturer" specific or model specific?.?.?

If interested, I can see if I can find a part number.. on a side note, this switch has a crappy dash light dimmer control.. really only has 1 position where the gauges are lit.:(

If the running lights don't stay on with the headlights on I would be interested to know the part number. I didn't even think that maybe some switches would operate differently. I have a bit of time in modifying the switch to mount in the dash the way I want, but that is just the outer housing so I could still swap that over to a different model.

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Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe

If the running lights don't stay on with the headlights on I would be interested to know the part number. I didn't even think that maybe some switches would operate differently. I have a bit of time in modifying the switch to mount in the dash the way I want, but that is just the outer housing so I could still swap that over to a different model.

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OK, I don't anticipate getting to the shop 'til tomorrow evening. I'll verify the switch operation and if it is as I think it is.. I'll look through the paper work and get the number for you.

Gm and Gmc headlight switch prior to 1966 trucks are all non power to the running lights, most owners that buy these truck will jump the posts on the back side of the switch to have the running lights on with head lights...as seen here 1964-1966 GMC Park Lamps

LMC truck shop ( item number 8 ) http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=100