37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

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Originally Posted by IC2

Oh my golly - Don - you finally made it to Randy's and Dave's (and now Mike) mile long thread. Glad to see you here:D .

Mike - life is a lot easier with the exhaust under the axle - especially if you are welding up your own. And if you are worried about appearances - you really can't see the tailpipes with the wheel/tire blocking it off.

Header bolts - I'm sure that somewhere way back here I had a post to Randy that I used Breslin Split Lock bolts.

(And no, it's not always this neat - that would be admitting that I had a sick mind)

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Thanks for the pics Dave. I used allen head capscrews as it was the only way I could rotate a screw. Hex head was hitting the header tube making it impossible to tighted properly. Even with the allen bolts I still have 1 bolt that's miserable to tighten! I am going to try and go under the rear axle but I want it to "kick over" and run under the frame. If I don't like that I'll copy your design. Thanks Again.

Lastly. I got a call from Spadaro's and Bill said he couldn't read his writing! He goofed my address and also the order. He was sending things I hadn't ordered. We cleared it all up and he said I should have it today, Just call me Murphy.... 8-(

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Originally Posted by 34_40

Thanks for the pics Dave. I used allen head capscrews as it was the only way I could rotate a screw. Hex head was hitting the header tube making it impossible to tighted properly. Even with the allen bolts I still have 1 bolt that's miserable to tighten! I am going to try and go under the rear axle but I want it to "kick over" and run under the frame. If I don't like that I'll copy your design. Thanks Again.

Lastly. I got a call from Spadaro's and Bill said he couldn't read his writing! He goofed my address and also the order. He was sending things I hadn't ordered. We cleared it all up and he said I should have it today, Just call me Murphy.... 8-(

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Mike - a note about Allen head cap screws - some of them (normal hardware/big box store stuff) are only about equal to Gr2 - so I hope you got some good ones.

Well - at least Bill called and gave you fair warning. Dick's writing is even worse and he started as a school teacher.

IC2, Going back to the first page of this thread there is a nice picture which shows braided tubing to your trans cooler. Can you say a few words about the braided hoses as to how you got those lengths made up with fittings.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

IC2, Going back to the first page of this thread there is a nice picture which shows braided tubing to your trans cooler. Can you say a few words about the braided hoses as to how you got those lengths made up with fittings.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Hi Don,
I asked Dave a similar question at the top of page 8. There is a brief response there but I'm sure he'll have some more helpful hints for you when he see this. Glad to have you joining in our thread. Sorry you have to wade thru so many pages of drivel to find the information you want! LOL! We're having a good time though!

Randy

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Originally Posted by IC2

Mike - a note about Allen head cap screws - some of them (normal hardware/big box store stuff) are only about equal to Gr2 - so I hope you got some good ones.

Well - at least Bill called and gave you fair warning. Dick's writing is even worse and he started as a school teacher.

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Dave, Yes I knew about the hardness of the bolts. EVERYTHING I BUY is GRADE 8. After 30 years in maintenance of machinery it's just become a habit. While some will say it's overkill, it's the only thing I keep in stock so!!!

Guess what just arrived? WOO HOO we got parts! ROFL.... I guess I'll have an operating rear window by the end of the week!

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

IC2, Going back to the first page of this thread there is a nice picture which shows braided tubing to your trans cooler. Can you say a few words about the braided hoses as to how you got those lengths made up with fittings.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Hi Don,
Those braided lines were made up from AN fittings, two length of -4 hose and some spilled blood.

The easy way is to get your plastic out and call Gotta Show as they have many versions made up. But.... since my cooler is hung on the right frame rail, mine is a custom length. My C4 trans has 1/8 pipe threads for the cooler lines, so I needed an adapter to AN, then the AN fitting to -4 braided line. The opposite end is virtually the same, but 1/4 pipe to -4 AN. AN fittings and braided line can try your patience as well as the skin on your finger tips which is why I alluded to blood above. There is a tool called a Koul Tool that will make life easier while putting the fittings together - unfortunately, I found out about it after I had completed most of my lines.

I did make one mistake - I didn't make up fittings to go thru the frame rather then under, but might correct that eventually.

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Originally Posted by 34_40

Dave, Yes I knew about the hardness of the bolts. EVERYTHING I BUY is GRADE 8.

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Mike
Glad to hear that - so many folks wander down to Lowe's and buy their Chinese junk. It used to be all US made Rockford, but now it's a lot of Crown Bolt crap.

When are you going to post some pictures???

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Originally Posted by IC2

Mike
Glad to hear that - so many folks wander down to Lowe's and buy their Chinese junk. It used to be all US made Rockford, but now it's a lot of Crown Bolt crap.

When are you going to post some pictures???

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I agree on the hardware! Most of mine is Bowman. So much of it comes out of my pockets after I get home! Seems I forget to check my pockets before leaving work.... REALLY! 8-)

The pics will be something I need to learn to do! I do have some posted over at the flickr site. I just never seem to remember to bring the camera with me to the shop. Maybe this weekend I'll snap some.

Why sometimes it takes a while to build a car in the great Northeast:eek: :CRY:

What a hekuva thing to wake up to this morning:CRY:

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Originally Posted by IC2

Why sometimes it takes a while to build a car in the great Northeast:eek: :CRY:

What a hekuva thing to wake up to this morning:CRY:

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Wow, Dave! It's beautiful but what a PITA when you wanna work on your car! I too have my restrictions in beautiful SoCal.....hopefully the neighbors won't mind me making a lot of noise on Saturday. I must get some things accomplished or this car will be in the garage forever! :(

I hope it melts fast! In the meantime, build a fire in the fireplace and put your feet up!:)

Later,
Randy

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Originally Posted by randyr

Wow, Dave! It's beautiful but what a PITA when you wanna work on your car! I too have my restrictions in beautiful SoCal.....hopefully the neighbors won't mind me making a lot of noise on Saturday. I must get some things accomplished or this car will be in the garage forever! :(

I hope it melts fast! In the meantime, build a fire in the fireplace and put your feet up!:)

Later,
Randy

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The picture of my back yard was bad enough but driving was worse - very wet and heavy an even my 7400# F350 4x4 was sliding around.

Tell ya what - just for this weekend - I'll trade you my 'scenic back yard vista' and my fireplace(with wood) for your weather. My neighbors are used to my noise, as the houses are 100 feet or more apart and I have a 1/2 mile by 3 mile long patch patch of woods behind my house to absorb any really loud stuff. And since my wife will be out of the country for the next week, I can get some things done without those weekend dreaded "honey, please (fill in the chore here)" words.

Later

The weather has been crappy still around here also. Lotsa rain and still cold with a day here and there of high 40's so you never know how to dress.

I did get the rear window in and it does roll up & down! It wasn't easy by a long shot, I must've assembled / dis-assembled it many dozens of times! I added a couple of features to hold it tight as I wanted to be sure it wouldn't rattle. This makes it a bit tough to raise/lower but it shouldn't make any unwanted noise.

I also added in the rear bulkhead and the trunk sides with some plywood that was on-hand. And lastly, I ordered some "L's" and "U's" and will see if I can't finish that exhaust system. Just recieved a company bonus so I have the bucks to get'er registered! Woo HOOOOOOooooooo... ROFL..

Hey Dave,

I haven't been posting much but I have been making a little headway on my car. I decided to solve my tire clearance issues by modifying my wheel tubs. I didn't want to pay the price for the 16 gauge pre-fab ones from Direct Sheetmetal so I'm making my own using 36" trailer fenders in 16 gauge and I bought a sheet of 16 gauge sheet metal to form the inside panel. I'm still fitting the left side into place but I've included some pics of my process.

While I was at it, I also cut out a piece of the trunk floor so I could C-notch the frame rails to give me some leeway with the ride height. I bought a couple of prefab c-notches from Weedeater that seem to work pretty great. At $35.00 it was cheaper to buy them than make my own since I don't have any of the heavier stock metal and no good way to bend it. When I'm satisfied with everything I'll weld the floor pieces back in.

On the wheel tubs, since I'm using 16 gauge sheetmetal, do you think I need to have some beads rolled into the back panels? it's only a 10" span at the tallest point of the tub.

I hope you're starting to thaw out over there in your neck of the woods!

Randy

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Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Dave,

I haven't been posting much but I have been making a little headway on my car. I decided to solve my tire clearance issues by modifying my wheel tubs. I didn't want to pay the price for the 16 gauge pre-fab ones from Direct Sheetmetal so I'm making my own using 36" trailer fenders in 16 gauge and I bought a sheet of 16 gauge sheet metal to form the inside panel. I'm still fitting the left side into place but I've included some pics of my process.

While I was at it, I also cut out a piece of the trunk floor so I could C-notch the frame rails to give me some leeway with the ride height. I bought a couple of prefab c-notches from Weedeater that seem to work pretty great. At $35.00 it was cheaper to buy them than make my own since I don't have any of the heavier stock metal and no good way to bend it. When I'm satisfied with everything I'll weld the floor pieces back in.

On the wheel tubs, since I'm using 16 gauge sheetmetal, do you think I need to have some beads rolled into the back panels? it's only a 10" span at the tallest point of the tub.

I hope you're starting to thaw out over there in your neck of the woods!

Randy

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It's looking great Randy! For 10" width I wouldn't worry about adding beads. Your going to stitch it in over many surfaces and that should stiffen it plenty. But if you can get it done cheap and quick it certainly won't hurt! My 2 cents.

Randy,
Better to make progress on your car then to hang around the computer like I seem to be doing (I'm putting wainscoting on the hallway just adjacent to my home office, so every time I get off the floor I check in here) The weather turned warm here yesterday - it was up to ~65. Now it's back in the 20's and flurries and below normal temps predicted through Saturday(Al Gore, you are so full of yourself with your global warming BS).

I really like what you are doing for wheel wells - should make for great clearance for any normal tire you might run. I don't see any need to bead roll the edges - it will be a pretty solid piece once welded in place.

I'm still waiting to see pictures from you, Mike