37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Rich, is that a factory grill or aftermarket? Are you running it without the side panels or are they just off in the pic? I always had the connector rod between the fenders but with my new radiator with the AC condensor I won't be able to use the factory connector bar. I'm planning to fabricate something that will replace it and accommodate the AC condensor....

---

Factory grille for the standard model and running without the side panels, ( covered in the garage) for the connector rod I`used a piece of half inch tubing, massaged it to clear the lower portion of my electric fan welded nuts on it and bolted it back on, and also just got thru making a lower air dam on the very bottom of the chin to kick more air into the radiator ( still in the rough stage ), thinking of building new inner fender panels, more in the way of a frame work with no inner panels at all.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 406Rich

Factory grille for the standard model and running without the side panels, ( covered in the garage) for the connector rod I`used a piece of half inch tubing, massaged it to clear the lower portion of my electric fan welded nuts on it and bolted it back on, and also just got thru making a lower air dam on the very bottom of the chin to kick more air into the radiator ( still in the rough stage ), thinking of building new inner fender panels, more in the way of a frame work with no inner panels at all.

---

My grill is an aftermarket that I bought when my dad first built the car back in the 80's. They are notorious for not being the greatest fit. It was made in Argentina, which is the same place most of the aftermarket grills come from today. My inner fenders have been modified to clear the Mustang II upper A arms. The cut out was beefed up so they're pretty strong. I've never run it without the side panels because my engine compartment was never very attractive before this rebuild, plus I think the side panels add strength and rigidity to the front end. My grill was much more solid with the side panels bolted to it. The lower piece that joins the bottom of the fenders & grill is in tact and strong. I have also fashioned a connector rod out of some tubing but don't quite have it right yet.
My plan is to replace the rubber body mounts before I re-fit the front fenders so I can be sure it's all in the right place. Then I can deal with unsightly gaps as needed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by randyr

My grill is an aftermarket that I bought when my dad first built the car back in the 80's. They are notorious for not being the greatest fit. It was made in Argentina, which is the same place most of the aftermarket grills come from today. My inner fenders have been modified to clear the Mustang II upper A arms. The cut out was beefed up so they're pretty strong. I've never run it without the side panels because my engine compartment was never very attractive before this rebuild, plus I think the side panels add strength and rigidity to the front end. My grill was much more solid with the side panels bolted to it. The lower piece that joins the bottom of the fenders & grill is in tact and strong. I have also fashioned a connector rod out of some tubing but don't quite have it right yet.
My plan is to replace the rubber body mounts before I re-fit the front fenders so I can be sure it's all in the right place. Then I can deal with unsightly gaps as needed.

---

I`ve seen several Aus grilles at the swap meets, and told that they never look quite right, I found an original last year at the swap meet, slightly tweeked but I think it can be straightened as a spare for $ 80, no rust. I`m only guessing from looking at my `37 that the inner panels and the front support carry the most weight and sinse I`m not running my front support probably why my front group has settled over time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Your hood line fits nice Randy , mine had been crimped slightly and will have to be worked to get that much correction

You can see the noise drop down really far .

http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/42...425x425Q85.jpg

---

Worst comes to worst Bobby you can always buy one from Bob Drake, filled or stock...!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 406Rich

I`ve seen several Aus grilles at the swap meets, and told that they never look quite right, I found an original last year at the swap meet, slightly tweeked but I think it can be straightened as a spare for $ 80, no rust. I`m only guessing from looking at my `37 that the inner panels and the front support carry the most weight and sinse I`m not running my front support probably why my front group has settled over time.

---

An original grill for $80? That's awesome. :D I've seen them on ebay going for $800+ !!! :eek::eek:

Who knows, I may end up with a Bob Drake hood myself. There is some bad repair work my dad did to the area where the hood prop bolts on. :CRY: It just need to be cut out and replaced. There is also a long sweeping crease on the drivers side that is subtle but noticeable. Not sure how to deal with that either. :confused: I'll post some pics when I get home and maybe you guys can give me some ideas on what to do with it.:)

In the meantime, I hope all you guys have a Merry Christmas and may we all have a happy & productive 2012!!! You're all awesome and I'm grateful to a part of this CHR community!!!:D:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by randyr

In the meantime, I hope all you guys have a Merry Christmas and may we all have a happy & productive 2012!!! You're all awesome and I'm grateful to a part of this CHR community!!!:D:D

---

Right back at ya! "Lil Buddy!" :LOL::LOL::D**) all the best to you and the family!

I think everyone survived the holidays so it looks like I can add some new stuff here instead of the one I started about a battery.

I'm swapping the big ol' Optima battery to a little Odyssey PC680 which is about 1/3rd the size. Its become quite a project as there is NO excess room anywhere except back in the trunk or hung off of the rear cross member I added for the gas tank reinforcing - or maybe under the splash shield. That's the easy part. The hard part is finding a place for the master shut off as well as the solenoid I use in addition to the starter mounted and rerouting a bunch of wiring. The battery cable has become very dear as far as price(~$5/foot!!!), so I'm trying to reuse what I have plus the approximate 3-4 feet of left over. All this is going to be done while lying on my aching back:CRY:

A comparison on sizes:

Attachment 52557

Attachment 52558

Dave that will sure cut the required space in half . Will it be back in near where the other battery was ?? Or is the purpose of change to do a total new relocation for it .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Dave that will sure cut the required space in half . Will it be back in near where the other battery was ?? Or is the purpose of change to do a total new relocation for it .

---

Bobby, the original plan was to relocate the battery to the frame, but when I tried to get in there to work, I could either get my hands(well, almost) in the space or a tool, but not both at the same time. What I'm going to do is lay that new battery down in a specially made battery box, build a covering wood framework, then cover with upholstery. That way, it will only be a 7x7x4 or thereabouts inch lump in the trunk. An unnecessary switching solenoid will be eliminated and a remote operated master switch will then be located on the right frame rail along with the cleaned up and redone wiring. I'm taking photos, but they are still in the camera, plus I'm doing a few home honey do's so my progress has slowed for a few weeks:o:3dSMILE:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IC2

I'm swapping the big ol' Optima battery to a little Odyssey PC680 which is about 1/3rd the size.

A comparison on sizes:


Attachment 52558

---

I like that little battery, Dave! Even though it'll be a while before I need one, :CRY: I've been thinking about where I'll put it on my 37. I purchased a box & long cable to mount it in the trunk quite a while ago, but the more I think about it, I think I might buy/build a nice metal/aluminum box and mount this little battery on the frame rail up under the passenger front fender. There's plenty of room & tire clearance plus it would be closer for the cables, etc. I've seen some drop-down boxes for regular size batteries, but if I use one of these, it wouldn't need to be so big.

I found a "new" trunk lid the other day on fordbarn.com, thanks to Bobby, :) and it should be on it's way soon. If it is a good as it looks in the pics, it will save me a ton of time and money! I've also decided to try to find a better driver's side door for the same reason. You may remember the issues with my existing one posted a few pages back.:eek:

I bolted on the rear fenders to make sure they still fit after the welding patches & gas filler and I'm pretty pleased thus far. Time for a little skim coat of filler in a few places and move along. Yes, I know, Mike......pics! :D

I'm going to a little Poker Fun Run in my truck tomorrow. Should be fun. Will be touring these shops in Orange County:
o Chopit Kustoms, Stanton www.chopitkustom.com
o Reid’s Rod Parts, Orange REIDS ROD PARTS INC
o C.W. Moss, Orange C.W. Moss
o Kugle Komponents, La Habra Kugel Komponents — Quality Parts since 1969
o Limeworks Speed Shop, Whittier Limeworks Speed Shop
o MOON Equipment Co., Santa Fe Springs www.mooneyesusa.com
o Bob’s Big Boy Broiler, Downey


Ok, Bob's Big Boy is not a shop per se....:LOL: Will let you know how it goes

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by randyr

I like that little battery, Dave! Even though it'll be a while before I need one, :CRY: I've been thinking about where I'll put it on my 37. I purchased a box & long cable to mount it in the trunk quite a while ago, but the more I think about it, I think I might buy/build a nice metal/aluminum box and mount this little battery on the frame rail up under the passenger front fender. There's plenty of room & tire clearance plus it would be closer for the cables, etc. I've seen some drop-down boxes for regular size batteries, but if I use one of these, it wouldn't need to be so big.

I found a "new" trunk lid the other day on fordbarn.com, thanks to Bobby, :) and it should be on it's way soon. If it is a good as it looks in the pics, it will save me a ton of time and money! I've also decided to try to find a better driver's side door for the same reason. You may remember the issues with my existing one posted a few pages back.:eek:

I bolted on the rear fenders to make sure they still fit after the welding patches & gas filler and I'm pretty pleased thus far. Time for a little skim coat of filler in a few places and move along. Yes, I know, Mike......pics! :D

I'm going to a little Poker Fun Run in my truck tomorrow. Should be fun. Will be touring these shops in Orange County:
o Chopit Kustoms, Stanton www.chopitkustom.com
o Reid’s Rod Parts, Orange REIDS ROD PARTS INC
o C.W. Moss, Orange C.W. Moss
o Kugle Komponents, La Habra Kugel Komponents — Quality Parts since 1969
o Limeworks Speed Shop, Whittier Limeworks Speed Shop
o MOON Equipment Co., Santa Fe Springs www.mooneyesusa.com
o Bob’s Big Boy Broiler, Downey


Ok, Bob's Big Boy is not a shop per se....:LOL: Will let you know how it goes

---

Randy. Google a search - there are several outfits that make battery boxes that fit that battery, but too dam' expensive for what you get, or ----- do as I did with some 3/4 or 1" angle iron and build your own. I'll post pictures before too long and, if you want, dimensions.

Way back when I had my '37 I found a pair of doors that were better bolted to a car sitting on a boonies hill. My recollection was that I paid $15 for the doors along with whatever else I wanted from the hulk(actually I bought the car for $15). Of course, I only paid $50 for that business coupe in running condition - but with flattened Havoline cans for floorboards.

That Poker Run sounds like fun. If you were just a little bit closer, I might have just invited myself to be co-pilot

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IC2

Randy. Google a search - there are several outfits that make battery boxes that fit that battery, but too dam' expensive for what you get, or ----- do as I did with some 3/4 or 1" angle iron and build your own. I'll post pictures before too long and, if you want, dimensions.

Way back when I had my '37 I found a pair of doors that were better bolted to a car sitting on a boonies hill. My recollection was that I paid $15 for the doors along with whatever else I wanted from the hulk(actually I bought the car for $15). Of course, I only paid $50 for that business coupe in running condition - but with flattened Havoline cans for floorboards.

That Poker Run sounds like fun. If you were just a little bit closer, I might have just invited myself to be co-pilot

---

Hey Dave, pics & dimensions of that battery box would be great whenever you have it ready.

I think the days of the $15 doors are long gone. I'm guessing it'll be 10 to 20 times that for just one! But, the freaking door bottom patch panel is $175 and you still have to do all the work, so it all evens out somehow I guess....

As for the poker run, if you lived closer you wouldn't have to invite yourself. I would have already done it....:D

Randy - my battery is up under the passenger side fender. its a little harder to get to than in the trunk, but I had cables from the doner camaro and they were the perfect length. I need to work on holding it down better, but it should work fine.

Be sure to take plenty of pictures tomorrow!

Randy, re; pics, YOU started it! and you're never gonna finish if your out playing poker all the time! **):D:eek::p

Dave, I'll be watching for your results also. I'm just not impressed or "comfortable" with this optima! And since I haven't finished my battery box, I may just hold off for now.

That small of a battery should take very little fire wall up in space .

Randy yes with all the pics , fun run and the 37 . !!!!!