37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

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Originally Posted by 34_40

Dave, what's connection 3 feeding? Switched?

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The way these latching solenoids are set up for battery disconnect is that you use #3 to do a momentary ground to complete the circuit from #2. Terminals 2 and 3 are a direct and always on feed from the battery. What you are doing is just completing the circuit. The through feed is then closed. Hit the switch again, and it will open. This is NOT your everyday $10 buck Ford starter solenoid which is a momentary solenoid. I had a little problem getting my feeble mind around it so wired up a 'bread board' to satisfy my curiosity. That toggle - can be on either side - I just chose to wire that way ----- just because I did :LOL::whacked:

Some reading for you - the final exam is at 0630 someday: Special Solenoid Applications | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse

it goes to ground to work the solinoid

Another bit of trivia from the garage of Don Shillady. Today is the first day of Spring and it was 76 F in my garage so I had to do something but I am just counting on the group here to keep me going. The title of today's lesson is "You Can't Be Wrong All the Time" Last summer I carved out my '29 roadster oak front bow so that my windshield wiper would park in a hidden position going on a vague assumption from a conversation with a guy at the Brookville plant that the Speedway "chrome wiper motor" Speedway Part 911-23502 would "probably park to the left". You can see in the picture that if it parked to the right I probably would have to start over with a new bow. Well I went ahead and varnished it and even put the mounting bolts in with epoxy so it will be hard to replace the bow. Over the winter I kept wondering if I had guessed right. Then when I checked the wiper with the battery in I could not get it to turn off. I know this is trivial stuff for you guys but any little progress is helpful here. Anyway the problem was in a three way switch that really only needs to be on/off and when I messed with it today IT WORKS! It also parks easily to the LEFT so my deep carve out hides the wiper when not in use. For what it is worth to others, the Speedway 911-23052 definitely parks to the LEFT. Now I have weakened the front bow but with a chopped top the wiper would obscure some vision if it were not parked in the carved out groove in the bow. Whew, you can't be wrong all the time!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/Teen Rodder

Here is a picture showing that the wiper blade and the wiper shaft are almost totally hidden when it is parked to the left in the carved out part of the oak bow.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Here is a picture showing that the wiper blade and the wiper shaft are almost totally hidden when it is parked to the left in the carved out part of the oak bow.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Clever idea, Don!! Congrats!!! I could use a few of those "can't be wrong all the time" moments!!!:)

Don - not too different then what I did though with the '30-'31 I didn't have to carve quite as much header away. I originally had a black Speedway when my $$ Mighty Wiper went up in smoke and while it worked just fine, really wanted the much smaller Mighty there. I ended up doing a full disassembly and repair to fix a stop and a broken wire. This is how I mounted mine, using a Speedway manual mount adapted to the electric wiper.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1514.jpg

Doing the rewire:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1510.jpg

I'll have to find the header photos or take new, but it really is about the same and there is a post somewhere here that "tells" more

I did another transmission oil pan change - back to the nice cast aluminum version I had on it. The tin one that I put on to attempt to stop an earlier oil leak - within the month started leaking, and lots. Every bolt hole was distorted by up to 1/8" - and the bolts never had more then 12 lb ft of torque (spec is 12-16). The cork gasket was allowing ATF by and it was easy to see where. As I said in another thread, I was waiting on new bolts - flanged, as well as some sealing washers as the original bolts supplied were common grade 2, found anywhere. I HOPE this is the last time, but history with this transmission says not a chance.

Attachment 53435

Attachment 53436

The aluminum cover will run cooler better idea

IC2, Just for discussion, was the steel pan snagged as a result of an obstacle like a speed bump? That might be why the bolt holes were enlarged. If so, the cast pan might crack insead of bending/denting? I only ask you that because I regret installing a 5" dropped front axle and am considering a major move to replace it with a 4" drop once I get the car running. I have one of those DeRalle steel pans with the spiral cooling tubes in it for some cooling but it is mighty low. At present the axle is the lowest part of the undercarriage but I would have to be going very slow to brake after hearing the axle scrape to save the trans pan. Fortunately most streets are very smooth but my driveway and mall parking lots are the most dangerous with humps/bumps. Your steel pan looks clean so what distorted the bolt holes?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Hi Don. No, there was no speed bump snag. As far as I can tell, the steel the pan was manufactured from is at least one gauge size or more lighter then the original Ford piece. I then used a fairly thick cork gasket which allowed the area around the holes to deform. While the replacement aluminum pan is about an inch deeper, I really don't expect a problem there either as I do have a couple of parts that hang pretty low. This is that steel pan -
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...C_0009-3-1.jpg

The aluminum -

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1851.jpg

The running boards and brackets as well as the 'H' pipe are lower just to name a couple items.

That newspaper under that pan is still drip free:D HOOOOORAY!!!

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Originally Posted by IC2

The aluminum -

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1851.jpg


That newspaper under that pan is still drip free:D HOOOOORAY!!!

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Looks sweet, Dave!!! I love drip free pans!!!:D

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Originally Posted by randyr

Looks sweet, Dave!!! I love drip free pans!!!:D

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I didn't show the engine oil pan with a drippy drain plug http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/s...onfused013.gif(but only an occasional drop i.e. 1-2 a month)

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Originally Posted by IC2

I didn't show the engine oil pan with a drippy drain plug http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/s...onfused013.gif(but only an occasional drop i.e. 1-2 a month)

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If only my truck dripped so little.....:(

Well having trouble getting a real car finished , so I decided to get some one to do this . HA HA it's still will take a few months .

Attachment 53548

Some Progress,

After several days of checking my wiring I still could not understand why my turn signals will work but not the headlights and tailights. The turn signals prove the headlights and tailights were grounded so I phoned up my friend who did some amazing circuit repairs for me when we both were working for University research. It only took him about ten minutes to find the headlight fuse was missing and then he plugged in the radio which I had wired but was not sure to apply power to. Now I have:

1. A working windshield wiper which parks automatically to hide in the oak bow.

2. Working turn signals complete with little green indicator lights on the dash.

3. A working brake light.

4. A working heater fan (two speeds).

5. A working cigar lighter suitable to recharge a cell phone or locator.

6. A working radio/CD player with "quadraphonic sound" (two speakers in the rumble/trunk and two in the cowl).

7. Working headlights with hi/low beams and tailights when the headlights are on.

Still to work out are the absence of instrument lights, the lack of a red high beam indicator, and a lack of horn response. The horn may have an incorrect relay so I will be checking that but I will be listening to the radio when I am checking the wiring from now on! After that I will have to hope my digital speedometer was not fried when I soldered the connector while attached to the digital unit. If it is fried I will have to purchase a replacement.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder