37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[randyr]

Hey guys,
I'm new to this forum and have a question to run by you guys. I have a 37 Ford tudor with a '69 302, C4 auto, 9" rear. I'm currently rebuilding the engine with a few extras to up the performance. One addition is the GT40P heads from the 98-01 Explorer. With the different spark plug angle this creates issues with the headers. I need to use streetrod blockhugger headers to clear frame & steering but they will require modification on some of the tubes to clear the spark plugs. Many posts on Mustang sites I've read suggest dimpling the tube and various other methods for clearance. Wouldn't that restrict exhaust flow by dimpling a tube half shut for clearance? I don't know if the "P" headers by Mac will clear my steering & frame. Anybody have any experience with this on a fat fendered Ford? Thanks for your thoughts.

[cffisher]

I was having this problem once .I beleave they make more than one style block hugger, not sure my memory ain't what it used to be. You could do what I had to do once(for angle plug heads) buy a header that requires very little modification(dimples) and buy some prebent tubing and just change the tube thats in the way.

[randyr]

I was having this problem once .I beleave they make more than one style block hugger, not sure my memory ain't what it used to be. You could do what I had to do once(for angle plug heads) buy a header that requires very little modification(dimples) and buy some prebent tubing and just change the tube thats in the way.

Hey Charlie.....thanks. Not a bad idea. I'll check that out.

Randy

[Irelands child]

Try Sanderson FF1 - they were the only ones that fit mine w/GT40P heads - out of 4 sets of headers tried. You can access the plugs. I also ended up with Breslin's fasteners because of wrenching space. The photo shows them in my TCI "A" chassis with lots (??) of room .

[randyr]

Try Sanderson FF1 - they were the only ones that fit mine w/GT40P heads - out of 4 sets of headers tried. You can access the plugs. I also ended up with Breslin's fasteners because of wrenching space. The photo shows them in my TCI "A" chassis with lots (??) of room .

Hey man, thanks a bunch! I was just looking at Sandersons online last night. It's great to know it actually worked for somebody and the pic is worth a thousand words. I should have more clearance than you since my frame is a bit wider. This may be the perfect solution.
Nice looking engine! Hope mine looks as good....
All the best.
Randy

[Irelands child]

Hey man, thanks a bunch! I was just looking at Sandersons online last night. It's great to know it actually worked for somebody and the pic is worth a thousand words. I should have more clearance than you since my frame is a bit wider. This may be the perfect solution.
Nice looking engine! Hope mine looks as good....
All the best.
Randy

Suggestion - if you buy Sandersons, don't get their coating. I had to do a bunch of cleanup inside where they left excessive globs of weld, pieces of MIG wire still attached and a couple of too long pieces of pipe that needed grinding off. A buddy got his already coated, and he had the same crap and couldn't do anything about the problems. Mine were Jet-Hot coated AFTER I built the exhaust system and the total price of the headers still ended up about the same.
You will need gaskets as well - Sanderson says use high temp silicone which doesn't work - I ended up using Earl's:

(http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku)

This is from Summit

I have more than enough clearance and a '37 will have plenty.

As far as the engine - all it takes is patience, $$$$ and some imagination. Mine is a bit beyond the photo now.

[Irelands child]

Randy,
I paint my engines black to emphasize the glittery stuff. I had been using DuPont Centari but switched over to an SPI epoxy primer and black. This photo is the other side of the engine. Even better room for headers here. I just installed red Taylor Spiro Pro plug wires for a bit of contrast and the fact the previous were spares and over 8-9 years old.

[randyr]

The black looks really good. Maybe I'll copycat you...LOL....
I won't have any clearance issues on the right side either.
I especially like the "coolwhip air cleaner"!!! Does that come in billet, too??
LOL!

You're doing some really nice work there!

[Irelands child]

[QUOTE=randyr] Maybe I'll copycat you...LOL....

.... "coolwhip air cleaner"!!! Does that come in billet, too??
LOL!

[QUOTE]

The Cool Whip air cleaner IS a one off, special order, (un)professionally crafted, high density, food grade billet plastic.

Copycat away - the black really sets off the goodies you choose

[randyr]

Hi again, Dave. Was just looking at your pics again as I'm getting ready to place my order for headers......did you use an angled collector supplied by Sanderson to start the exhaust pipe on it's route to the back or did your muffler shop come up with something else? Did you route the exhaust through that first frame bracket or under it? How far down do the headers hang? Obviously if they hang too low it makes for a pretty sharp bend to curve back up to go thru the frame, you know? What mufflers did you go with? I'm thinking about the Flowmaster 3 chamber 50 series...I want good flow and a nice sound but don't want to rattle the neighbor's windows, you know? Any pics of how you routed the exhaust from the headers? You've been a great help, man! I really appreciate it!

Randy

[Irelands child]

Hi again, Dave. Was just looking at your pics again as I'm getting ready to place my order for headers......did you use an angled collector supplied by Sanderson to start the exhaust pipe on it's route to the back or did your muffler shop come up with something else? Did you route the exhaust through that first frame bracket or under it? How far down do the headers hang? Obviously if they hang too low it makes for a pretty sharp bend to curve back up to go thru the frame, you know? What mufflers did you go with? I'm thinking about the Flowmaster 3 chamber 50 series...I want good flow and a nice sound but don't want to rattle the neighbor's windows, you know? Any pics of how you routed the exhaust from the headers? You've been a great help, man! I really appreciate it!

Randy

Randy, remember that I have an "A" rather then a '37 and the frames are way different.

I used the flange adapters supplied by Sandeson though they are a bit puny. If you can find heavier, I recommend it - you will also need the donut header to flange seals - gaskets wont do it.
They were trimmed at an angle, pieces of mandral bent "U" tubing (Summit/Jegs) welded on as extensions so they wouldn't project too low. I then made up the rest of the exhaust using a 10 foot length of 2.25 tubing for various straight lengths and 2 or 3 "U" or "J" bends. As I have a '32 style gas tank, chose to go under the rear end.

I'll take some new digital photos later today and post - I used a film camera for most of my exhaust pictures and are a pain to scan.

These are my mufflers - Flowmaster Delta Flow #942452 / in and out= 2.25” 50Series. A bit tight on an "A" but should fit great on a '37. Noise is a problem here with neighbors - one is a NY State cop with an attitude

[Irelands child]

Here are a few photos - this forum wont allow but 2-3 per post. This should give you an idea. Never know how much dust is on stuff until you take photos. Looks like I need some shorter flange bolts as well.

[randyr]

Here are a few photos - this forum wont allow but 2-3 per post. This should give you an idea. Never know how much dust is on stuff until you take photos. Looks like I need some shorter flange bolts as well.

Hey Dave, here's another question for you.....I assume that aluminum cylinder bolted to the passenger side of your frame is a transmission cooler....I haven't seen one like this before......is it more than adequate to keep the trans cool? I can run mine thru the radiator but it would be nice not to have those lines running up there to the front.....please let me know more details about this product and it's effectiveness.....thanks.

[Irelands child]

Hey Dave, here's another question for you.....I assume that aluminum cylinder bolted to the passenger side of your frame is a transmission cooler....I haven't seen one like this before......is it more than adequate to keep the trans cool? I can run mine thru the radiator but it would be nice not to have those lines running up there to the front.....please let me know more details about this product and it's effectiveness.....thanks.

Randy,
I did take a look at the attachment in the other post of the '37 Flatback - really nice car. I had forgotten how relly small the engine bay is on the '37's - and I even have owned two of them in the dim and distant past.

The 5" firewall really allows you to dress out the engine and have it so it can really be accessible.

That is a transmission cooler on the RH side of the frame. As I have yet to run this car, not sure how well it will do though it is a 2 pass, 24 inch long unit. There is a lot more cooling surface then a radiator mounted unit and it is in a lot cooler environment, so should do well on this car. I ran a smaller unit on a previous car and never had any trans overheating problems.

Here is a thread that shows mine better as well as the manufacturer:
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...mission+cooler.

The TCI chassis is nice but if yours is still reasonably good, then really not necessary if you are on a fairly tight budget.

Chassis Engineering has a replacement set of 'X' cross members - you will be $$ and time ahead instead of trying to repair ancient and crystallized steel:

http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/page60.html
Then go to p61 for boxing plates

You might want to get their catalog as well.

The weather here is finally turning a bit and the snow is starting to disappear so maybe I can get my car painted and starting to be put back together next month. And yes the Xmas wreath is long down.

[randyr]

Man, Dave, you are so thorough! Thanks so much! Yes, I know the frames are quite different but I thought if I could see yours, I could assimilate to mine. I'm kinda visual like that....my frame has the large X-member which has holes for the exhaust to pass through. Using an angled collector like you did should allow me to route the exhaust through that first part of the X without having to go underneath it. My master cylinder is currently on the firewall (long story) but I'm thinking about putting it back under the floor, in which case there's room for my exhaust to go to the outside of it rather than underneath it like yours. I also notice you put in a "H" pipe, which many people don't do. I've read different things about the advantages of that but not sure how feasible it is for mine yet. Thanks again for sharing your experience. You're saving me tons of hassle trying to re-invent the wheel...LOL