I agree that you used one of your ten lives cutting the windshield, but it looks great.
Brad
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I agree that you used one of your ten lives cutting the windshield, but it looks great.
Brad
I wish he had done his windshield before I did mine. I would have copied it too.
Thing looks very professional.
Don
Guys
Thanks for all the compliments. If this keeps up, I'll need to get a bigger welding helmet to fit my swelled up head!:LOL:
Feel free to copy away. I'd be flattered. Everything that is, but the table saw thing:eek: You're on your own with that one.
Mike
How's this nice car coming along?
I was thinking about this a couple of weeks ago, too, when I was playing with ideas for my own windshield...:rolleyes: Any progress???:confused: We love pictures...:3dSMILE:
Yeah Mike, wasup?????? You get us all teased, then leave us hangin'. :D :D
(The crowd is getting unruley, better post SOMETHING !! :LOL: )
Don
Hey folks!
I'm still here and I really didn't mean to leave everyone hanging! I was really suprised to see this old post show up again!
I was wrapped up in two wheeled endeavors off and on during the summer. I repaired my dads GL1500(he and mom don't ride anymore) and my wife and I took a little vacation on it. Been riding every chance we got(which isn't as much as I would like).
Also, my son is a senior in high school this year and I've been following his last year on the football team a lot closer. They grow up fast! He'll be gone to college before I know it!
But, all that doesn't mean I haven't been working on the T though. Just that the blog has suffered. My hat's off to Don and J Robinson, keeping up a running commentary isn't easy(for me a least).
Major stuff I've done since the last post:
Installed the dash and gages
Fabbed the steering column supports
Installed the column
Fabbed a door hinge support and beefed up the hinges
Fabbed a door stop and installed the door latch
Hooked up the steering shaft
Fabbed and installed the brake pedal and booster/MC
Installed 2 different shifters(didn't like the first one)
Rebuilt the Lokar shifter so that it worked like I thought it should
Added wood to the body
Put in 2 driveshaft loops
Cut down and installed a Speedway battery box for a small Optima battery
Built a gas pedal
I'm about halfway through my "todo list", which will finish up the fabrication stage of the build. Then I can move on to the paint and finish work. My goal now is to get enough fab work done so that the state inspection process can start. Don't know how long that will take! The last person I spoke with at the State office didn't seem to be very interested in what I was doing and couldn't answer any questions. Unfortunately, I'm pretty much at their mercy.
I'll post pictures and some more build notes as soon as I can(got to sort and resize the pics). I'll try to get something up this weekend.
Mike
Looks like you've been a busy little beaver there! :D Yep, we'd love to see the pictures of what you've done.
Don
There isn't much to add about the windshield after the last post. I did notice that the mounting points were off a little when viewed from the side. By that I mean that the windshield frame and posts were at slightly different angles. The cowl hinge points will need to be pushed forward on the cowl and the pivot points on the frame will need to be raised. I wanted the frame to lay just in front of the dash, but it didn't work out that way.
Since everything is just tacked together, it's an easy fix, but I put it aside for a while to concentrate on the getting the dash mounted. That way I could be sure to get the right relationships. I didn't realise it would be this long before I finished it!:rolleyes:
The dash is a cut-down 32 Ford that came with the body and mounting it was just a trim and fit job. I had to cut a couple of notches in the ends to clear the new winshield posts and trim the top to match the cowl.
Since I wasn't trying to get by super cheap anymore, I decided to add some shiny stuff to the dash. I've always liked the old Stewart-Warner dash panels, so I ordered one of the 5 hole units from Haneline(nice folks by the way). It JUST fit the cut-down dash. No way the 6 hole panel would have fit.
The gages are Series 1 VDO and the speedometer is electronic. They have an old style look, but no way are they traditional. I lucked into these on EBAY. These are the same gages I have in my 46. The speedo is easy to calibrate and has never given me any trouble. If you've never used an electronic speedometer before, I highly recommend them. Makes recalibrating your speedo the easiest part of a gear or tire swap. Saves a lot of hassle and frustration.
After I got the gages in it was apparent that the dash was going to shake. The mounts just weren't stiff enough to stop it. I added a brace from the bottom of the dash to the firewall. Now it's pretty soild.
After the dash was finished I moved on to the firewall and steering column.
The internal firewall was glued up from 3/8" plywood to get 3/4" for the most part. I had to make it this way because it needed a cavity for the toe board portion of the interior fiberglass unit. I'll waterproof this with fiberglass and epoxy it to the firewall when I'm through adding stuff to it. I'm using the same type of T-nuts that Don used on the back of the wood for threads. It's also bolted through the front to angle iron brackets on the lower portion. These also brace the front body mount holes.
You can also just see the cowl cross-bar that I added. It had to have a bow in it to clear the recessed part of the dash.
Dont I know what you mean!!!! I spent most of the summer months on the ol Harley.....I made more progress on my T coupe in the last three days then I did ALL summer!!!!.....:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrod46
T42
I see you're in Tenn. There is some mighty fine riding in your state. We trailered a bike to the Knoxville area a few years ago for the NSRA Southern Nats. Spent 4 days riding in the eastern part of the state. It was great and I want to go back!
Mike
I decided to use a Speedway column. The price seemed right for a stainless column and I wanted a simple look.
It's a VERY simple unit. Just a piece of 1 3/4" stainless tubing, a couple of 3/4" bore flanged bearings that fit the tube and a 3/4" shaft. The shaft has a double D machined on the bottom and comes with a quick release wheel mount up top. You could make one pretty easy if you have the materials and maybe a milling machine. But, it doesn't look bad and saved me the time building it.
I made up a dummy column out of scrap pipe and all-thread and bolted a steering wheel to the top. I used a piece of MDF screwed to the firewall to support the lower end. That way I could adjust the length and find a comfortable angle. After measuring the angle I screwed two pieces of 3/4" MDF board together and set them up in my drill press. I used a 1 3/4" hole saw to cut an angled hole in the boards. Those boards were screwed to the firewall in the right location for the bottom of the steering column. These then became a guide for the hole saw in my hand drill to cut the bottom mounting hole. This gives you a much better chance of getting the hole right on the first try.
I left the MDF guide in place and slid the steering column through it. It worked out just right. The fit was tight enough to hold the column in place so that the upper mount could be done.
The upper and lower clamps were made from 1/2" steel, but they could be made of aluminum. I just don't usually have much aluminum laying around. The hole was cut with a hole saw and they were drilled and tapped for a 3/8" fine thread clamp bolt. The last step was to split them through the top portion to form the clamp. The lower piece was cut on an angle to match the firewall. The upper bracket is just two pieces of angle iron with a piece of 3/16" plate welded between them for bracing. The dash hides all this.
After I got it all done, I noticed some side to side flexing in the cowl if you pulled on the column. I added a diagonal brace to the center of the firewall and took most of it out. There's just not a whole lot of rigidity in a T cowl.
Yeah, well you are right about EAST tenn......Im too close to Memphrica, and its not near as nice!!! The further east you go, the nicer it gets!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrod46
After the column was in place I made up the steering shaft. It worked out pretty good. The joints are not at bad angles and there's pretty good clearance between the shaft and engine. The picture makes it look closer than it really is.
In this picture you can see I've added the radiator support rods. These are from a 32 Ford. I had to cut them down some, but I think the A model rods would have been too short. I stuck the 3 duece setup on to check clearance. It's tight on the front air cleaner. I want to use the helmet style air cleaners and I hope they will fit. The open style will work with no problem though if I have to use them.
I've also been kicking around the idea of using a generator instead of an alternator. I think it fits with the look of the car. It's only 30 amps but since most of the time(daytime) I'm only going to be pulling an electric fuel pump and possibly a MSD box, I think it will work. The Carter fuel pump shouldn't pull more than 5-7 amps and MSD claims that their 6A boxes only draw 1 amp for every 1000 RPM's(seems low to me, anybody have any real world info?). Two 60 watt headlights should draw about 10 amps and I'm going to use LED taillights, which shouldn't draw much at all. That should leave me with about 10 amps to spare( I hope). The only real unknown is the MSD box and I can ditch that if I have to and just run the points. Of course there's always Pertronix
I thought it was about time to get the door hung and latched. Notice I still haven't fixed the windshield.
This body was setup for a fiberglass interior unit that gets epoxied into place and stiffens the whole unit up. You're not supposed to need wood or other reinforcement. Well maybe not, but the more I fooled with it, the more I thought it could use a little added support.
One area was the door. The original setup had the hinges screwed to the fiberglass door frame and relied on the box structure formed by the interior to hold everything aligned. If the hinges ever needed serviceing, you were just out of luck. Once that interior section gets glued in, it ain't comin' back out in one piece.
I fabbed up an inner door post out of 3/4" square tube and a peice of angle iron heavy enough that it could be tapped for the hinge bolts(1 x 1 x 1/4", I think). Luckily I had room to squeeze it in between the body and interior unit. It ties into the cowl bar at the top. At the bottom, I added a bolt-on bracket to the side of the chassis and the door post bolts through the floor to that. The door hinge support is now as solid as the car frame and independent of the body for the most part. If the hinges ever need to be removed, I will still need to cut an access hole in the kick panel area, but it's not going to weaken the door support or throw it out of alignment.
I also had to reinforce the hinges. They were made of 1/8" material and were already starting to bend, as you can see in the picture. I just added another piece of 1/8" flatbar and now they're pretty solid.
Another peculiar thing about the door frame was that there was no door stop. My first thought was to build an inner ridge all the way around the door. About halfway through the build I realized that this was a bad idea and would just give me something to trip on when getting in or out. So I cut it down to just the latch side.
I started by making a template of the door opening out of paper and transfering that to 1/2" plywood. The inner wood form was just as important as the opening as it gave me something to form the metal around. The stop is made of 1/2" square tube with a 16 gage wall. The gentle bends were made by hand in the vise, working just a little at a time. The tight curve at the bottom was made by slotting the tube, clamping it to the form and tacking the slots back together. Once I had the shape, I welded the slots and ground it all back down.
The tabs that are welded to the piece in the pictures were there just to clamp it in place. After it was fitted, they were removed.
A piece of 3/8" keystock was ground down until it would just slide inside the top of the tube. This was welded in with a couple of rosette welds and gave me something to drill and tap for the door latch(striker?).
The whole thing got a coat of paint and was attached to the door frame with epoxy and 3/16" pop rivets about every 2". The rivets were reinforced with fender washers.
That's really looking great Mike, and the way you did the door is pretty smart. We've all seen glass T's and such with sagging doors, you won't be having that problem.
What you might be able to do is give those radiator support rods a little kick to the outside with just a little bend to clear your aircleaner. I've seen some cars done that way and it looks fine.
Keep up the good work, it's coming along nicely. :D :D
Don
Thanks, Don.
That original hinge setup was not very confidence inspiring.:eek:
I might have give the "bent rod" idea a try. I do like the look of the helmet type of air cleaner a lot better than the open kind.
I've got some more to post tonight. I'm at work right now and can't post pics. Hope I don't run out of pictures before I run out of story. I got a little lax on taking them after a while.:rolleyes:
The battery box was pretty simple. I already had a Speedway battery box laying around from another project.
The battery was the problem. Like Don, I didn't have a lot of room, although I did at least have a bed to hide things in. I looked at the little dry cells like Don used, but in the end I decided to go with a small 51R Optima Yellow Top that I could get locally. They're intended for Sport Compacts. It's only 5 1/16"Wx9 5/16"Lx8 15/16"H and has 650 cold cranking amps. It fits fine, but I recently read some bad stuff about this battery on the net. Seems they were discontinued due to high failure rate back in 06 and supposedly pulled from the shelves. Kind of strange because I just bought this one from Advance Auto in the last couple of months. Luckily the battery box just bolts in, so if this one fails and I can switch to another box and type of battery. Might wind up with one of Don's dry cells after all.
I cut the Speedway box down to fit the new battery and added a bracket to the rear of the frame. The other end of the box rests on the right hand bag mount.
Next up is the brake pedal and master cylinder setup. I don't have any pics of the pedal assembly going together, but I do have some of the finished installation.
The pivot tube is 1 3/8" and the bushings are the same ones I used in the 4-bar ends(from Speedway). The axle is just a 3/4" bolt welded to the frame. I'll put a self-locking nut on and a safety pin through the end during final assembly.
The curved pedal arm is 1/2" SCH 40 pipe that I bent by hand. I tacked a couple of pieces of large diameter pipe down to my table and used that to roll the pipe a little at a time. I drew the radius out on the table and just kept tweaking it till it was right. A 1/2" fine thread nut was welded to the end for a Ford pedal pad.
Some people are probably wondering why I put a power booster on a car this light. You have a point, a properly designed manual pedal setup would have worked just fine. I went this way so that I wouldn't need as much pedal ratio as a manual setup. Room in a T is at a premium to say the least. If you have a master cylinder that has a 1 5/16 stroke and you use a common 6 to 1 manual pedal ratio, you need to be able to move your foot 7 7/8" to stroke that MC all the way. Not being able to use all that stroke means that if one side of your MC fails you may not be able to move the piston far enough to activate the other side. If you could go with a 3 to 1 ratio, your foot only needs to move slightly less than 4" to use all the travel your MC can give. Being able to move that pedal 4" closer to the firewall or closer to the floor will go along way toward making the car more comfortable to drive. The downside is cutting the ratio by half means twice as much foot effort is needed. The booster will help cure that.
Of course all this assumes you can still stop the car with the fast ratio and NO vacuum at the booster, as if the booster had failed. Depending on that booster to be 100% reliable is foolish. I think you can still stop a LIGHT car with this setup and after it's running I will test my theory. I don't suggest anyone try this, it's just what I decided to try.
I hedged my bet though, because I added holes in the pushrod arm for 5 to 1, 4 to 1, and 3 to 1.
The booster in the picture is an 8" double diaphram unit that I am using on another project. The booster I'm going to use on this car is a 7" single diaphram. By building everything around the larger unit I have the option of upsizing, but I don't really think that will be neccessary. The 8" unit would be total overkill!
The long push rod is 3/4" DOM tubing. I turned a forged steel yoke down to just slip in and TIG welded it.
The shifter should have been a slam dunk, but like a lot of hotrod stuff, it wasn't. Of course, some of it was self inflicted.
I'm running a 700R4 and thought for a long time about running a full manual valve body. I wanted a real manual at the outset of the project, but nixed that idea because of the foot room versus three pedal issues.
TCI makes a manual valve body for the 700 that gives full engine braking in all gears. Not all manual VB's do. I thought of it as a clutchless 4 speed, the best of both worlds and the new VB would eliminate the TV cable to boot. I liked the idea of being able to force the trans into the gear I wanted and not what the governor thought I needed. Traction issues in normal driving could be delt with by using 2nd or 3rd to start, instead of low. The light weight of the car combined with the mutiplying effect of the torque convertor should have made this possible. I needed a good, positive shifter for this and picked up a B&M Megashifter. I had used one before and liked it.
I had already started installing the shifter when I started finding info that suggested running a manual VB in a 700 constantly on the street might not be a good idea. Seems the 700 has some weak spots that get aggravated by the constant high pressure shifts that the man. VB forces. One guy had 3 transmissions fail in the same place(one of the clutch baskets kept blowing apart). All the weak spots can be fixed, all it take$ i$ lot$ of $.
I'm not planning on running super high HP in this car(maybe 300, more like 270 real world). I really didn't want to spend cubic dollars on the trans just to make it a manual. In a car this light, a stock late model 700 should handle my HP levels with little more than a good heavy duty rebuild and a TransGo shift kit. Soooo, the manual VB idea got tossed.
I pressed on with the installation of the B&M shifter though. I had to move it over toward the pass. side of the car to keep it from rubbing on my leg and I fabbed up a new narrow cover. It felt pretty good for the driver and fell right into your hand. The trouble was the passenger was going to be miserable after a awhile since the edge of the cover would be rubbing on their leg all the time. I'm lucky enough to have a wife that likes to do the things I do even if she's not into cars, so I try to make things as easy on her as possible. The more I looked at it, the less I liked it. Besides the passenger issues, it stuck out like a sore thumb. I just wasn't feelin' it.
It sure came out a lot easier than it went in. Yep, I ripped it all out and ordered a Lokar Nostalgia shifter and a trans. mounted E-brake handle
Shifter part deux.
I thought that the Lokar stuff would speed this part up. Boy, was I wrong.
I wanted to mount the shifter as far forward as I could which turned out to be in the second set of holes from the top. What they don't tell you, anywhere except the instructions that come with the shifter, is that you need an extra linkage kit to make everything work like it's supposed to when the shifter is mounted that far forward. Be nice if they mentioned that somewhere on their website(I didn't find it). The linkage that comes with the shifter gets "cammed over" when the trans is in low and kind of gets stuck there. Might not be a issue with a 3 speed auto but that extra position in a 4 speed trans just pushes the trans selector lever over too far.
The other thing I noticed was all the flex in the shifter unit itself. With a 23" stick, it just felt mushy and vague. It was very difficult to locate any specific gear as the shifter detents just skipped over their positions. I tried carefully aligning and tightening everything up really tight, but it didn't do any good. The flex in the shifter body just didn't let anything work like it was designed to.
The new kit adds a bellcrank at the rear of the trans that is supposed to put the linkage at a better angle. The new stuff had so much side to side slop, that it really didn't help much at all, it just added more unnecessary motion to what was already there. I wound up using the rods and hardware and making my own bellcrank with a long pivot that eliminated side motion. I also made a new lever for the trans that changed the angle and kept it from getting over centered.
The best "improvement" I made was to weld a couple of plates to the front and back of the shifter that tied the left and right sides together. The thing works great now! Smooth and positive. No trouble finding a gear and good enough to actually manually shift through the gears. The detents in the trans and shifter fall in together and where they should.
I don't know, maybe I just got a bad one. Or maybe I should have used a Genie. I've used Lokar's cables and gas pedals before with no problems, but this was my first shifter and I have to say I wasn't impressed. Your mileage may vary though. In hindsight I probably shoud have just returned it and tried a Genie. Sometimes I just get stubborn. The good news is that the e-brake setup does appear to work as it should.
I have to say that the new shifter looks a lot better in this car than the B&M unit and doesn't use up any valuable space. The brake handle takes care of the emergency brake issue. All thats left is to run the cables.
I made a little trim piece to go over the E-brake handle just to make it look finished. It's made of wood and will eventually be glassed in place. I'm going to do a little "body work" on the trans hump first to smooth it out and make it look better.
I was thinking about a Lokar sifter in my truck. When I have tried them at displays at shows I thought that they were mushy too and didn't like the feel. It looks like you have created a modification that should be incorporated into the production model.
Tom
Maybe I should patent it!:rolleyes: :D
I had intended to use a "store bought" chrome gas pedal that I had laying around, but there was not enough room between the steering column brace and firewall. Not only that, but the cable was going to go through the radiator rod bracket.
So I built one out of some scrap suff I had laying around the saw. I try not to throw anything away! Even little pieces can sometimes be used. The spoon part of the pedal was the hole saw slug that was left when I made the lower steering column clamp! The base was made from a scrap of 2" X 3" X .120 tubing. The rest is 1/2" rod(overkill, yes, but on hand).
I did weld a washer to the rod where the pedal drops down to keep everything located side to side and not bind up.
The "dogleg" in the top is to clear the radiator rod bracket. It all looks a little crude, but puts the pedal in a comfortable spot and solves the space problems. It also has plenty of travel. Got to make sure all 3 carbs will open all the way!:3dSMILE:
I'll go ahead and confess now that this car will have cruise control. Must be the "street rodder" in me coming out!:rolleyes: Actually I like cruise. In a cramped car like this, it will make longer trips a lot easier. I intend to use this car for car shows and cruises. And I don't believe in trailering a car. Drive it or leave it home! Just my dos centavos!
The Rostra unit doesn't need any vacuum and has enough adjustments that you can add one to almost any apllication. I have one on the 46 and it's been trouble free.
The cruise unit will mount on a brace that ties the cowl bar to the door post. The cable mounts to a bracket on the steering column brace. A sliding cable end, like the kind used on trans kick-down cables, allows the pedal to operate normally and snaps on a stud welded to the top of the pedal.
The VDO speed transmitter(for the speedo) will supply a speed signal and if I hide the control switches, no one would even know the car has cruise. Everything is hidden behind the dash.
In the pictures you can also see how the brake pedal looks with the floor insert in and the pad screwed on.
Here are a couple of pictures of the driveshaft loops and the rear suspension. I don't have any build shots(sorry).
The loops are made from 1/2" X 2" flat bar, heated and rolled around a 4" pipe. I could have used something a little lighter, but this was laying around. Two loops are probably overkill, but since a thin fiberglass sheet is all seperates my butt from the driveshaft area, I wasn't taking chances. A broken u-joint or tube could leave you with an industrial strength case of hemorrhoids!:CRY: :CRY: :eek:
The rear suspension is pretty straightforward. Just 4-bars and a panhard bar. The rear is a S10 2WD. Those skinny rear bars are going to be replaced with heavier 4130 chrome moly pieces later on. I have the material on hand, just got to get around to doing it.
The bags are the smallest ones I could get( Firestone 7076). They have an 800 lb rating at 100 PSI. It looks like 30-45 PSI is all it's going to take to support the rear of the car with passengers. The air line in the pic is temporary and it leaks. I keep short peices of 3" tubing between the bump stops and the rearend, since thats the travel I set it up around. The shocks are the lower stops and keep the bags from over-extending. The upper bag mounts do need some gussets for added strength.
I will have an on-board air compressor to keep things inflated. I'm not going to use an air tank though. I'm not interested in perfoming suspension gymnastics:rolleyes: , just keep it at ride hieght.
Looks really good Mike. I like the mods to the Lokar shifter and your gas pedal setup. I built my own too, and like it better than the Lokar pedal my Son bought.
Funny story about air bags. On another forum that is famous for flaming people for not having "traditional rods", they have jumped on people who use air bags on non fendered cars......."IT AIN"T TRADITIONAL!!!!!" :rolleyes: :rolleyes: Well, the other day I was reading a 1957 Rod and Custom magazine and right on the cover is a section that reads "replace your old fashioned suspension with air bags." The article inside goes into how to install airbags on all kinds of cars, and that was in 1957.
I laugh when I see some of these "traditional police" say things like that. They wouldn't know tradition if it bit them in the behind. All they know is what they THINK is traditional. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Keep up the great work, looks fantastic.
Don
I only lurk there, don't post, but all I would get is an argument anyways. Some of them are just sitting by the computer waiting for the chance to pounce on someone. (I won't mention any forum name here):rolleyes: Places like that really make me appreciate good old CHR.Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
Don
Sounds kinda HOKEY to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
But then, the alliance discounts can be handy from time to time.:D
I know the site and rarely post there. Lots of good info, but much too strident in their judgement of all things traditional for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
The older rodders I've had the pleasure to speak with tell a different story of how it really was.
In my opinion, FWIW, is that it's the 21st century. The time they claim to recreate doesn't exist anymore and hasn't for a long time, so building a truly traditional rod is virtually impossible. To ignore the progress made,especially in safety, since that time is contrary to what hot rodding is and was about. True tradiional hot rodding is about taking what you have and modifying it to make it better(even if that means using new technology:eek: :eek: ). Many of the so-called "traditional" rodders of today are more like the restorers of the sixties. They hoard old parts and dole them out grudgingly to those they feel are "worthy" and heavily criticize(attack) those that stray from the "accepted" path.
Thanks for the kind words, by the way.
Mike
Or like the rodders of the "DAY"....we build what can't be done or what isn't available......rodding is not buying and displaying somebody else's wares, it's inovation and adaptation....make it work and look good.
Yep, that too!Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrowarrior
Here is the magazine cover I mentioned.
Point is, tradition is in the eye of the beholder and open to a wide range of opinions. If you only choose to see a certain part of that history you are missing out on a whole raft of possibilities. If you look at any of the little books from that period you will see some very off the wall stuff, and it was all good.
Don
Is that Don with hair sitting in that red rider......LOL
Brad
Rodders of the day were very progressive and open to new stuff.
That's why early OHV V8 engines(Caddy, Olds and the mighty Hemi) quickly replaced the venerable flathead when they could be afforded.
The small block Chevy was high tech for the late fifties.:eek: I don't think if you had shown up at the local car hang-out in 57 with a 2x4 Power Pack 283 in your Deuce roadster you would have been shunned. I doubt anyone would have said "Man, that makes me want to puke. Why didn't you use a 292 Ford?":rolleyes:
Absolutely correct. I remember when a local hot rodder did exactly that to his '32 roadster...........pulled out the built flathead and put in a 265 with two fours. Everybody was drooling over those $ 17 Vette valve covers and the rest of the package.
And NO, that wasn't me with hair. This was me with hair............ :eek: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: I'm the good looking devil in the front. Man, was that really 45 years ago??????????? :eek:
Don