I like that grille better too. :)
Tom
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I like that grille better too. :)
Tom
New grille looks great! Nice work on polishing the shifter.
hurry up and finish, so I can make an offer !
$$$
Wow J. Robinson that things really looking sharp.
Those honda coilovers working like you thought they would.
I'm gonna have to buy some coilovers here in the near future,
those ones would probably be to weak for me though.
I'm not sure how much a honda weights, my Ranchero
only weights about 2,000 pounds. Kurt
Chop chop, Daytona is only 7 months away. :D Looking good Jim and starting to get to the finish line it looks like. That grille really is going to make the front end.
Don
Thank you all for the compliments.:o
Kurt - Those Honda coils are really stiff. I won't know until I drive it, but they seem awfully stiff to me. They may be too stiff for this car and I may have to change them...:HMMM:
Don - I know, I know... And time gets away so quickly... I was driving my coupe in primer by this time in the build (2 years) and I am yet to put "fire in the hole" with this one. Hopefully, when school is out I can make some big strides on it. Only time will tell.:whacked:
I know Jim, we are pushing hard too, and 7 months flies by......it's already 4 months since Xmas. :eek:
Don
J. Robinson; Do you know about what your weight is going to
be when you are finished with the car? Kurt
I don't know, Kurt. Probably somewhere around 1600 pounds.:rolleyes: The springs are designated as "Honda Civic racing springs" and we all know that a Civic is pretty light. However, the effective rate of a spring at the wheel is dependent on leverage (the type of suspension and where the spring is mounted in relation to the pivot points of the suspension components). On my roadster, however, there is no fancy or complicated geometry involved like on independent suspension. In this case, with the springs mounted directly between the frame and a beam axle, the chassis "feels" the full rate of the spring. I bought four of these springs in a kit with the idea that I might use them on all four corners. When I got them I soon realized that they were much too stiff for the rear. In the past I have used Ford Escort, Chevy Chevette, and Geo Metro rear coils in the rear of an array of different vehicles. These springs are stiffer than any of those.:eek:
Jim,
How is roadster project going? Any update?
Earl
Nothing to tell, really.:HMMM: I have been completely sidetracked temporarily. It all began with painting the house during spring break. Then I needed to clean out the garage so I would have room to get back to work. Then I started building on to and enlarging the back porch. Hopefully, when that's finished I will get back to work on the roadster.:rolleyes: In the meantime, I have acquired the intake manifold I need to make the little 2.5 'banger run with a carburetor.:3dSMILE:
The good news is, during the garage cleaning phase my wife suggested that I "needed" a big new tool chest to replace the two old ratty small ones I had! Who am I to argue with that kind of logic?:D:D
So... Tell us again what class this car was made for?
Your students look to have done a great job!
OK with out going back over about 3 years post;
Did ya get the Holley 2bbl intake for that 4banger? and is it a 4 cly iron duke motor,? If so I got a lot of parts for that taking up space,we need to talk if that's the case:eek:
Scooter - It's an Electrathon car.:D Electrathon America sanctions races for these cars. They have some very strict rules about safety and the cars are limited on battery power, but the design is up to the builder.:cool: Racing these is quite a challenge; ya have to combine aerodynamics, lightweight construction, low rolling friction, and motor/ battery efficiency while still trying to outrun everybody else.:rolleyes: You can get all the info at: www.electrathonamerica.org and www.electrathonfl.homestead.com .
Also, I did a build thread on that car here on Club Hotrod:3dSMILE:. Take a look at it here: http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41183
Bat - The engine I'm using is a 2.5L four-banger out of a 1987 Chevy S-10. Is that considered an "Iron Duke"?:confused: The manifold I got came from a local mini-stock racer. He wasn't sure where it came from, but our best guess is probably from an '80 - '82 Chevy Citation. They used this same engine, but the early ones were carbureted instead of injected. It includes an adapter to run a Holley 2-barrel carb.:3dSMILE: I also got the HEI distributor that has the coil in the cap and only requires one wire. The stock distributor had the coil separate and had a really weird wiring harness (computerized?). As soon as I get the porch project done I will get back on this project; my first objective will be to get some "fire in the hole".:rolleyes: Let me know what you got... Do you still have my home e-mail address? Also, how's the roadster coming?
My son is working on his 23 T-bucket,so I'm not doing much rite now on my 28"A" roadster,cus of space to work in..
What I have too much of,is 2.5 Fiaro"Iron Duke" parts from Mini stock racing, including alum Holley 500 2bbl intake and a complete street 1984 Fiaro,plus as I remeber 2 extra motors that are the same but newer design with roller cams,all covered up in shop some were to dig out. And a ported head.
Need to just trade off or sell super cheep-O.;)
Or a old V6 Nisson(Datson} complete car 4 parts,but runs for free,both power steering and AC are junk on this free-B to any one that will come git it. All to good to trash,but I may have too,get some space.
Well, this sucks! I finally get all the home improvements done so I can go back to work on the roadster and I hit a real snag. The manifold I got from my neighbor (see my last post above) doesn't fit! The bolt holes all line up, but the intake ports are different. The ones in the head are higher up in relation to the older manifold... The Bat tried to help me by offering one of his old Fiero race car manifolds, but it won't fit either. At this point I have two alternatives: (1) I try to fabricate a manifold or (2) I pull this @#$%&! 4-banger out and replace it with a 350 Chevy. Every hotrod I've ever built has been small-block Chevy powered and I'm beginning to believe I should have stuck with the old "tried & true"... Here's a piece of advice for anyone considering using an S-10 engine in something - DON'T! There simply aren't any aftermarket parts for these things. I can't even find a chrome rocker cover, let alone an intake manifold. I'll keep you all posted...
Jim: Just the other night while I was working at the shop it dawned on me we hadn't heard from you for a while and I was wondering if you were ok. I was going to do a "where are you Jim post." Maybe I've been missing your posts on other subjects.
That really is tough about the engine. Are you sure nobody makes anything for these motors? With the 10 bazillion S10's they have built there must be something out there.
I know what you mean about availability of stuff for a sbc...........you can almost run to McDonalds and pick up parts for them. :LOL: I'll do some internet snooping and see what I can find for your motor..........but as smart as you are I bet you've already done a bunch of that.
Don
Hey Jim, I read through your thread to try to find out what S10 engine you have, but didn't see that info. (OK, now I see it) However, I did find this on JC Whitneys website:
CARBURETOR CONVERSION KIT
Fits: Chevrolet S10 Pickup
Our Low Price:
$399.99 - $432.99
Financing Available:
Customer Review:
Availability:
All items ship in 5-7 days
* Genuine Weber carbs are NEW, not rebuilt!
* Replaces old carb for better performance, improved fuel economy
* Includes everything needed for an easy conversion and direct, bolt-on installation
* Designed for street use
These Weber Carburetor Conversion Kits are precalibrated based on use with a stock engine in YOUR specific vehicle. If your engine has been modified, recalibration may be required. Kit includes carburetor(s), manifolds or adapters, air filter(s), linkage, hoses, hardware, a complete set of installation instructions and technical support for sixty days.
Please note: These carburetors require only 2-1/2 to 3 lbs. of fuel pressure; you may need a new fuel pressure regulator if your vehicle has higher or inconsistent fuel pressure.
Year/Make/Model Additional Info Item Item # Unit Price Order
1982 - 1985
Chevrolet
S10 Pickup
* Engine Type: L4 1.9L 119CID, GAS, CARB, Aspiration:Natural, Vin:A
w/ Hitachi 2 Barrel Carburetor Carburetor Conversion Kit ZX538091F Kit $432.99 Ships in 5-7 days
1982 - 1985
Chevrolet
S10 Pickup
* Engine Type: V6 2.8L 173CID, GAS, CARB, Aspiration:Natural, Vin:B
w/ Rochester 2SE Carburetor Carburetor Conversion Kit ZX538123F Kit $399.99 Ships in 5-7 days
Whoops, just noticed you did post that it is an 87.........I'll keep looking. There might be some info in this thread for you too.......... http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f106/e...b-help-381838/
Don
Thanks for researching on my behalf, Don. I hadn't thought of good ol' J.C.Whitney. If that system would fit a 1987 S-10 I would order it ASAP. Apparently, '86 was the change year. I have looked everyplace else I can think of, but I guess these engines are just unwanted bastards; nobody seems to make anything for them.
I saw one of these engines a couple years ago that had a homemade manifold and a pair of Harley Davidson carburetors. If I can get a flange made that won't break the bank, I will attempt to weld up one for myself to use a pair of Holley 94's or Stromberg 97's. If the machine cost on that flange is too exhorbitant, I will trash the 4-banger and go with a small-block. I really wanted to do something different (for me) this time, but maybe it just isn't worth the effort.
Sorry if I seem rather gloomy; I am just disappointed to get this far and encounter such a stupid problem...
Looking good, Jim. Have you thought about just keeping the fuel injection? You could always build a harness from the s-10 harness and just eliminate what you're not using. Surely someone out there could reprogram the PCM to eliminate the emission controls that would be out of the picture. That four banger looks pretty darn cool sitting in there.
Thanks, falconvan. I like the looks of it, too. I'm just frustrated by the lack of parts availability.
There are a couple of reasons why I don't want to use the fuel injection. First, the ugly looking manifold has a water jacket around the injector body that sticks out too far and interferes with my louvered hood side. Secondly, and most importantly, I don't know the first friggin' thing about working on EFI systems and I don't know anybody around here who knows enough to modify it and make it work. Finally, I'd like to have a more traditional looking system with one or two carburetors that I can fix myself if it breaks down on me somewhere.
One way or another, I'll whip this problem...
I know you are discouraged Jim, but you've overcome bigger obstacles than this one building cars. The way I look at the problems that crop up during construction is that this isn't a car I have to depend on every day to get to work and all. It is only a hobby, so if I have to walk away for a day or month or year then go back to it with renewed enthusiasm, that is what I will do.
Maybe the pre 87 head will bolt on the later block, then you could use one of the intakes that are available. Or take the intake gasket to someone who can cut out a flange the same shape and weld up your own intake.
Just back away from it for a while and remember that this is "supposed" to be fun. ;):D Plus, you already have a cool coupe to tool around in, so it isn't like you are rodless. :D
You will figure it out.
Don
Jim, A friend of mine has an extra S-10 4cyl (yes I paid him this month to be my friend) I will call him and see what year.
BradC
Thanks for the encouragement, guys. You're absolutely right, Don. The coupe is a permanent member of the family and it is a pleasure to drive.
I have decided to build a manifold from scratch. My long-time good friend, Dick York (http://dickshotrodplace.com/), is sending me a carburetor gasket to use as a pattern for the carburetor flanges. I will build a log type manifold for two carburetors and then ship it to him to have the carbs set up and plumbed. I have no idea what Dick has in mind, but I know it will be really nice. He is an absolute fanatic for meticulous detail. Check out the gallery on his website and you'll see what I mean...
See. now wasn't that easy! :rolleyes::D Glad you found a solution. Sounds like it is going to be a nice piece too. With the current interest in back to roots rodding a lot of guys will benefit from you posting how you build the manifold.
Don
Wow Dick York has some cool pictures on his site. Should be really cool Jim!
Don - We'll see how easy it is when I start building it. I have a feeling this could be a time consuming project. I already lost the summer to building the new back porch and screen enclosure; now another setback. The roadster may not make it to the Turkey Run again this year. Oh well...
Steve - You should see Dick's garage! He has some really rare stuff, carburetors and intakes sitting all over the place and everything spotlessly clean. My wife and I try to go visit him and his wife whenever we make it to Indiana. When we finally go out to the shop I usually just stand and stare with my mouth hanging open for the first 20 minutes or so. The '34 coupe that is in the rendering on his home page is a real car and is sitting in the shop along with his '48 Chevy sedan delivery. I have known Dick since he and I were building chopped motorcycles in the early '70's; his stuff is always nicely done and detailed to the max.
Hang in there Jim, I know you will come up with a nice, this is how I did it, and amaze us all.
Earl
OK, it's finally time to get down to the task at hand.:rolleyes: I bought a piece of 1/4 x 3 flat stock to make the flange out of. After cutting it to length, I used the original gasket to lay out the holes. Nobody in this one-horse town ever heard of Dykem, so I used the next best thing... a Sharpie pen.;)
I center punched and drilled the bolt holes first. Then I center punched the center of the intake ports and cut them out with a 1 1/8" hole saw. One advantage of making the manifold myself is that I can leave the EGR port blocked off.:3dSMILE: I am also leaving the rear water passage blocked off. If it turns out that I need a return line there, I will drill & tap it later for a pipe fitting.
Also, I will trim the corners and excess material later. Right now I am leaving as much of the "meat" intact as I can to help avoid warpage later when I welding.
Glad to see you working on a solution Jim. :) When you get it all welded up do you plan on having the surface blanchard ground or in some other way machined totally flat so you get a good seal? I imagine the welding would distort the flange a little.
I think this is very do-able. You and I have both seen some really weird intake manifolds created by some of the rat rod guys..........ones that really shouldn't work, but somehow do. With your talent yours will be just as nice and functional as the rest of your car.
Oh, BTW Jim, I scored two engines at work the other day. One is another Gen VI 454 that had head problems, but the rest is fine, and the other is a 3.0 liter Chevy 4 that was replaced and found to only have a valvetrain problem.( rocker arm, lifter, or cam..........haven't pulled it apart yet to see) Anyway, that one I'm saving to build a similar car to your track T. Of course, that one is like 5 down the list of other ones I have to do.:o But I thought of your car the second I saw it being pulled out of the boat. :D
Don
I see gasket matching and head porting coming, what carbs are you going to use? I saw a model a 4 with an overhead valve conversion that used two s&s harley davidson carbs, it really looked nice , this setup goes a long way toward getting parts to keep running problem, You are getting really close my project is dead in the water I have been off of work since april, I have had a lot of time to perfect tig welding , a new miller tig is in my plans right now, good luck when you get this car running please put a video with some good shots of it going down the highway,
Jim,
Glad to see you do this yourself. I promise you it Will be very rewarding when you are finished. I have done this many times and would be very happy to send you photo's of how I made sharp turns with tubing so they look cast when finished. If the runners are going to be made out of round tubing, which is what it looks like you are doing, it's no different than a set of headers but with a plenum instead of a collector. If you give me the bore and stroke I can give you a idea on the plenum size. Or are you just going to make runners with a direct port?
Ken
Isn't any question but what J.R. can do it----------------NONE! He does things that amaze me, and I been around things for near 66 years. I ain't einstein, but I know he's sharp, J.R. that is! Funny I'd mention both names in this post. heeheee.
Jim, I have cut my driveshaft like you said. And near there with manifold, just need some rod (someday). I NEVER would have attempted it were anyone else that said I could. God Bless! Perley
Don - True, I have seen some weird ones. I saw an inline six once with 7 carbs on a log manifold! I have always wondered if they all worked or if some of them were dummies... As for warpage, I will run this thing across the belt sander when I'm done to see if it needs further machining and decide what to do then; gaskets can make up for a small amount of distortion.
Let's see... you have a small-block Chevy in your lakes-modified roadster, an Olds in the roadster pickup, and a small-block Ford in the '27 and you just procured two more different engines... Looks like you have at least two more projects in your future!:rolleyes::3dSMILE:
Greg - I also saw a 2.5 Chevy like mine with a pair of Harley carbs on it. It was in Street Rodder or Rod & Custom back when I started this project. Too bad nobody makes a commercially available conversion like that; it would get me up and running a lot quicker. Oh well, what good are these projects if we don't learn something along the way?;) This conversion will be equipped with some very traditional old carbs, either Holley 94's or Stromberg 97's.
Ken - I would never tell you to mind your own business! When it comes to fabricating, I bow to you. The details and modifications on your roadster are absolutely mind blowing...:cool: OK, I am making the "log" and runners out of round tubing. I assumed I would keep this first attempt simple; I also need to keep the carbs as low as is practical. I will come straight out from the flange with the runners and right into the side of the "log". The two carburetors will be positioned with one over each pair of runners. The holes in the flange are 1.125" diameter because that's the biggest hole I can contain within the limits of the intake port. A good friend of mine found some tubing that has 1 1/8" inside diameter, so that will be the runners. For the "log" I have a piece of 2 1/2" tubing, but I can get something different if necessary.:confused: The bore on these engines is 4.00" and the stroke is 3.00" (basically half of a 302). And, yes, I would like to see those pictures sometime for future reference.
Perley - You are too kind. I am no genius.:o Most of the things I do I have learned because I never could afford to pay someone to do anything for me. If I couldn't do it myself, it didn't get done, so I had to become a "Jack of all trades". The good Lord blessed me with a pair of nimble artisitic hands and an inventive brain so I could turn the things I imagine into real tangible objects. If I have any knowledge that someone else can use, I am happy to pass it on. It's my way of "paying it forward".;)
Glad to hear you tackled the driveshaft on your own; I have always cut my own and have never had one commercially made for me. After the first couple, they are no big deal any more...:D