Nice, as always.
gonna steal a few ideas
thanks!
Josh
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Nice, as always.
gonna steal a few ideas
thanks!
Josh
Streetwerkz-No problem that's why I put it on here. I think very few of my ideas are original, I'm pretty sure everything has already been done. It's usually a little of this and a little of that.
I have the body mounted now and part of the floor installed, and the ladder bars in. The floor will take more fitting for the transmission, but for now it serves as a stiffening part.
The next part is the rear cross member. I'm going to use a '40 Ford rear spring. The ride quality is very important to me, so it will be adjustable. That way when I get the spring rate right I can adjust the ride height without affecting the ride quality.
Ken
This is what I'm thinking for the adjustable rear cross member. There is a tab in the middle of the plate that centers the spring but allows it to move up and down as needed. Then on each side are the series of adjustment holes to set the height. There will be a 1/2" treaded bung welded to the top of the cross member where I can screw in a bolt. This will be accessed threw a little removable panel in the floor, so if I need to make an adjustment I can just remove the panel screw the bolt down that will unload the weight on the cross member so I can change the pin location without jacking the car up.
Ken
Sorry, I see I just blew this thing up.
Don't know what the rear weight of the car is but that looks like you'd be carrying thr weight on 2 bolts ( possibly as small as 3/8) in a shear situation thru a cross member that was 1/8 to 3/16 thick????
Now, if this was a temporary crossmember for trial of the ride height/ride characteristics and you would then replace it with a more conventional cross member-----
Also---you don't need the tab or the slot to center the spring as the 2 bolts will do that anyway--and then it will be stronger without the slot---so the idea is starting to look better
I like the design. Cool to be able to adjust it up and down through an access panel. I'm far from an engineer, but looks sound.
Jerry- I know this must look pretty flimsy, but it really isn't. I'm going to make it out of 3/16 cold rolled steel. You are right the bolts will be 3/8" shoulder bolts. The car will weigh in between 2600 and 2800 pounds with a weight distribution of about 60% on the front end with the 5 degree rake. The bolts are rated at 10,280 pounds of sheer strength each, so I don't think there will be a problem. The tabs in the center are to keep everything located properly when I take the bolts out for an adjustment. Thank you for evaluating it though it's real easy to make a mistake, and I could still be wrong.
Steve & EVOLVO- Thanks, hopefully it will all work as planned.
Ken
Here are a couple shots of it on the floor for a trial look.
I draw them with crayons on paper towels, then a guy at work makes them correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evolvo
Ken
It has a nice stance to it. I like the fenderless look too. Just gives it a mean raw look!
I wish I had a "guy at work" that would do that for me :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
The body looks nice. If it were me, I would take some of the swoop out of the front of the frame.
...but I am sure you will pull it off .....and it will look amazing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_1938
I think "the swoop" might appear excessive, but it's not. Ken's sedan will be sitting very low and the frame tapers up from the firewall to the front spring before it "swoops back down. IMO
I like it. :) This car is kind of a departure for you, normally your cars are hi tech in lots of ways, but this one is very traditional appearing, even though it still has lots of neat modern touches. The wire wheels and Buick drums fit this one to a T, Ken.
Going to be a very nice addition to the stable. :)
Don
Steve - Thanks, your truck is coming a long nicely also if you would stay home and work on it more :LOL::LOL:
Flipper 1938- Thanks but I agree, I really don't like the big arch in the frame rails either, but it really serves a purpose of getting the car low and still have the proper travel. I'm going to try and hide as much as possible with the shock mounts and headlights. If you have a project you need a drawing for pm me I will be happy to get it drawn for you.
John- You are right, I think a lot of that will not be a noticeable when everything is in it's place.
Don- Thank you, I must be getting old, It's really growing on me.:LOL:
Too true Ken!:LOL: Well at least I have sunday to start the wiring!:cool:
I don't think that hiding the swoop is the approach to take. Going to larger diameter front wheels (and overall taller tire) may help the with the visuals of the swoop.
I think the overall stance of the car needs to stay where it is, the front axle just needs to be tucked up into the swoop a little tighter.
What size wheels and tires are on the back? A tall/skinney 18 might do it.
Oh yeah, the proportions of the chop and vertical section job are great :)
Flipper1938-The rear wheels are 18" and the front's are 15". If you look at the front end now, this is at ride height. Once the headlights and shock mounts are in I think it will be alright.
I got the pieces back from the Lazar cutter yesterday and put the cross member in at ride height. Now what ever weight is added and spring rate ends up being, everything is adjustable.
Ken
You call yourself a rod builder? Why, you didn't even make your own tires!:D
That's about all you didn't make. :) Wow, really nice work Ken. I love the oldtimey look of this one. Even the modern touches you added blend right in. Very very nice.
Don
Really like the adjustability in the rear, Ken, going to be nice having it to really fine tune the ride height and stance!!!! Way back in the "stone ages" we used an adjustable rear spring mounting (though not done with a lazer cutter) on a Super Mod we raced.... Started experimenting with it and learned a lot about forward bite and weight transfer.... Sure wish we'd of had lazer cutting in '66!!!! Used to think our pattern torch was "state of the art"!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL: Will you have the same adjustability in shock mounts????
Hmmmm. Maybe add a cambered housing and a cage and get tuned up for some nostalgia racing on the dirt????:eek::eek::eek: Sorry man, I have a sick and twisted mind.....:LOL:
Ken, It's....................PERFECT!
Dave we just over filled the air shocks to go up, and let air out to go down!:eek::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Ken, I like the look, did you have another cross member cut with different ride height. I know my luck the ride height would be between the holes allready cut.
BradC
Don-Thank you, I have to tell you this thing is really growing on me. I haven't ever had a street rod with so much room :LOL: I''m normally cutting and chopping things for an extra inch, but there is still room for a back seat In this thing.
Dave- I made a flame cutter years ago, spent hours with a file making the patters perfect, 1/8" smaller than the finished piece because I had a 1/4" magnetic stylist. Does that ring a bell? Yes the shocks will be adjustable, I'm doing that now. Sorry no dirt for my baby :LOL:
John- Thanks, How are you doing on yours?
Hot Rides-Thank you.
Steve-I have done that also!!!!!
Brad- I thought about that also, I have 3/4" on the centers of the holes, so I have a 3/8" spacer I can use to move the spring to line everything up in between.
Ken
Thanks for asking Ken.
I'm taking it back to work in the morning to lift the body off hopefully for the last time before final paint. It seems like it's been months of weekends doing "filling...priming...blocking...filling...priming...and blocking again". But it's now all straight, smooth, and all the body and hood gaps are tight. The frame and chassis parts will be dropped off very soon with Mikey at Ikon, for some RAL3004 Maroon Red powdercoat. I'm still not sure yet how to get it all sprayed, but I still have some time to decide. I built a 2" reciever hitch for it also. My son has a small teardrop camp trailer that I want to tow to Bonneville when the roadster gets back on the road.
Every time I'm at Ikon dropping off or picking up motorcycle parts I see lots of folding trailer chassis so business must be still OK for some people! By the way, you have a nice write up on your car trailer in Sept. Street Rodder.
As many others have already said, your "multiple builds" help keep us "slow pokes" moving forward on our builds. You put us to shame with the speed and quality of your efforts.
Oh heck, it'll wash off!!!! I've even got an old pair of Firestone diamonds, they'd look great on the rear slidin' sideways out of turn 3 on Hall of Fame night at Jackson!!!!!;);):LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
Time for an update? This is a really neat build.
There is something to be said about having the right tools.
Nice work!
Surely you have something cool to post by now.
Great project.
Tonight at supper Dan asked me if Ken has posted any updates lately and I had to say no. :( You haven't taken up fishing or some other hobby, have you Ken?:rolleyes:
Don
No, no other hobby just really busy at work. I have got more done but when I get home I'm beat and probably just lazy. With the economy squeezing small business we have to work a lot harder. I will try to post what's been done.
Also I've had a couple of bumps with my red roadster. Last year I made a cam change and got some bad info on my distributor gear, and after 2,000 miles it ate it ever so slowly and long story short the cam went flat. I pulled it out and went threw it. I put it in today and hope to fire it tomorrow. I hope to take it to the Roadster Round up the 10th of this month in Pismo Beach. So their it is in a nut shell. Thank you for asking, now you probably wish you hadn't :LOL:
Ken
Good to hear your still with us Ken! Nice thing about having a few hot rods, is there is always a backup ride! Also doesn't hurt to own a trailer company!:D Post some pics when you get some time, Steve.
Thanks for the interest in my project.
I finished the rear cross member, shock mounts, and sway bar. things didn't look quit right on the chop so I took another 3/8" out of the A and B pillars, now I think it looks right.
I have been working on the sub frame for the body, I want the car real rigid. I'm using 1"x2"x.O83 around the door frame then a piece of 1/4"x6" flat bar from the B pillar back to the rear. I just cut a template out of thick template paper then trace it on the flat bar. cut it out on a band saw, and use a rose bud tip on mu torch to get it hot to form it to the frame. Then put in some threaded bungs for the body bolts.
This is what it looks like with both sides welded up. Next will be the floor getting fitted and welded in. For the upper door frame I use 1"x2" but has to be curved to match the roof line. I don't have the tooling for my benders to bend rectangular tubing so I just put slits in it where I want it bent then weld the slits up and grind them off and it looks mandrel bent. Also fitting the rear panel that was rusted out.
Does it look like a old dirt track car?
Ken
Ah, good to hear from you...............thought you might have taken up golf or something! :eek::D
That tudor sits just right Ken. Love the wires and the whole look. Your pickup especially is going to look neat next to this one. :)
Don
Looks great Ken!!!! Now just add a roll bar and some era correct Halibrands (they're laying around in everyone's shop!!!:rolleyes::rolleyes:) Drop in the engine and tranny complete with the stolen from a pool table 8 ball shifter and you'll be ready to take it out and get it dirty!!!!!!
PS---If you're taking applications for a driver at the nostalgia circle burner races, let me know!!!!!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
As always, very well engineered and a first class build all the way... Hope the whole business world starts straightening out soon! The one good thing about living here in the poverty belt is that folks are already so poor I think we're recession proof!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Ken. Thanks for taking the time to post pics and explain your latest work. I had noticed the sub rail work in a previous pic and was wondering what you were going to use for the rear floor pan. I feel better about cutting my front crossmember loose and moving it 1/2" forward after reading that you cut down your A and B post another 3/8". The guys here thought I had lost my mind, but it has to have the correct look. Right? Enjoy the build. It is looking great!
Great little topic.Quote:
Originally Posted by nutbush
And Nice work--thank you for sharing- for me this makes perfect sense though.
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Don-Thanks, no golf, they wouldn't let me drive the golf cart I built. :LOL:
I'll take a shot of my truck next to the sedan, the sedan sits so much higher than the truck, I'm afraid of nose bleed driving that thing. :LOL:
Dave- Thanks, business seems to be getting better, I hope things are getting better or at least not worse for everyone.
deucef4papa-I bought a Direct Sheet metal replacement floor to start with, then cut it up to make it fit. Because of the way I do my frame for the channel it just has to be cut and paste.
I truly believe you should build it until you are happy with it. You are your own worst critic. Thanks for the nice comments.
I have been working on the windshield frame, (almost fits) the rocker panels, and the floor. I had the hood louvered and powder coated. the heat from the oven took some of the shape out of the hood, I will re shape it when I mount it.
When ever I weld panels together I paint the merging surfaces with weld able primer to discourage any rust, once you weld this stuff together their isn't anyway to get paint in there.
[QUOTE=Ken Thurm;364502]Don-Thanks, no golf, they wouldn't let me drive the golf cart I built. :LOL:
Let me take a guess about that golf cart Ken. Could it perhaps look like the one below. :D:D
I was just thinking we haven't heard any updates from you for a bit. Glad to see you are still making progress on the Tudor. Looks great. This one might just become your favorite out of the lot. :):)
Don
I'm glad you didn't take up golf cart building....I would miss your fantastic hot rod builds.
Bradc