Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_1938
I think "the swoop" might appear excessive, but it's not. Ken's sedan will be sitting very low and the frame tapers up from the firewall to the front spring before it "swoops back down. IMO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_1938
I think "the swoop" might appear excessive, but it's not. Ken's sedan will be sitting very low and the frame tapers up from the firewall to the front spring before it "swoops back down. IMO
I like it. :) This car is kind of a departure for you, normally your cars are hi tech in lots of ways, but this one is very traditional appearing, even though it still has lots of neat modern touches. The wire wheels and Buick drums fit this one to a T, Ken.
Going to be a very nice addition to the stable. :)
Don
Steve - Thanks, your truck is coming a long nicely also if you would stay home and work on it more :LOL::LOL:
Flipper 1938- Thanks but I agree, I really don't like the big arch in the frame rails either, but it really serves a purpose of getting the car low and still have the proper travel. I'm going to try and hide as much as possible with the shock mounts and headlights. If you have a project you need a drawing for pm me I will be happy to get it drawn for you.
John- You are right, I think a lot of that will not be a noticeable when everything is in it's place.
Don- Thank you, I must be getting old, It's really growing on me.:LOL:
Too true Ken!:LOL: Well at least I have sunday to start the wiring!:cool:
I don't think that hiding the swoop is the approach to take. Going to larger diameter front wheels (and overall taller tire) may help the with the visuals of the swoop.
I think the overall stance of the car needs to stay where it is, the front axle just needs to be tucked up into the swoop a little tighter.
What size wheels and tires are on the back? A tall/skinney 18 might do it.
Oh yeah, the proportions of the chop and vertical section job are great :)
Flipper1938-The rear wheels are 18" and the front's are 15". If you look at the front end now, this is at ride height. Once the headlights and shock mounts are in I think it will be alright.
I got the pieces back from the Lazar cutter yesterday and put the cross member in at ride height. Now what ever weight is added and spring rate ends up being, everything is adjustable.
Ken
You call yourself a rod builder? Why, you didn't even make your own tires!:D
That's about all you didn't make. :) Wow, really nice work Ken. I love the oldtimey look of this one. Even the modern touches you added blend right in. Very very nice.
Don
Really like the adjustability in the rear, Ken, going to be nice having it to really fine tune the ride height and stance!!!! Way back in the "stone ages" we used an adjustable rear spring mounting (though not done with a lazer cutter) on a Super Mod we raced.... Started experimenting with it and learned a lot about forward bite and weight transfer.... Sure wish we'd of had lazer cutting in '66!!!! Used to think our pattern torch was "state of the art"!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL: Will you have the same adjustability in shock mounts????
Hmmmm. Maybe add a cambered housing and a cage and get tuned up for some nostalgia racing on the dirt????:eek::eek::eek: Sorry man, I have a sick and twisted mind.....:LOL:
Ken, It's....................PERFECT!
Dave we just over filled the air shocks to go up, and let air out to go down!:eek::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Ken, I like the look, did you have another cross member cut with different ride height. I know my luck the ride height would be between the holes allready cut.
BradC
Don-Thank you, I have to tell you this thing is really growing on me. I haven't ever had a street rod with so much room :LOL: I''m normally cutting and chopping things for an extra inch, but there is still room for a back seat In this thing.
Dave- I made a flame cutter years ago, spent hours with a file making the patters perfect, 1/8" smaller than the finished piece because I had a 1/4" magnetic stylist. Does that ring a bell? Yes the shocks will be adjustable, I'm doing that now. Sorry no dirt for my baby :LOL:
John- Thanks, How are you doing on yours?
Hot Rides-Thank you.
Steve-I have done that also!!!!!
Brad- I thought about that also, I have 3/4" on the centers of the holes, so I have a 3/8" spacer I can use to move the spring to line everything up in between.
Ken
Thanks for asking Ken.
I'm taking it back to work in the morning to lift the body off hopefully for the last time before final paint. It seems like it's been months of weekends doing "filling...priming...blocking...filling...priming...and blocking again". But it's now all straight, smooth, and all the body and hood gaps are tight. The frame and chassis parts will be dropped off very soon with Mikey at Ikon, for some RAL3004 Maroon Red powdercoat. I'm still not sure yet how to get it all sprayed, but I still have some time to decide. I built a 2" reciever hitch for it also. My son has a small teardrop camp trailer that I want to tow to Bonneville when the roadster gets back on the road.
Every time I'm at Ikon dropping off or picking up motorcycle parts I see lots of folding trailer chassis so business must be still OK for some people! By the way, you have a nice write up on your car trailer in Sept. Street Rodder.
As many others have already said, your "multiple builds" help keep us "slow pokes" moving forward on our builds. You put us to shame with the speed and quality of your efforts.
Oh heck, it'll wash off!!!! I've even got an old pair of Firestone diamonds, they'd look great on the rear slidin' sideways out of turn 3 on Hall of Fame night at Jackson!!!!!;);):LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
Time for an update? This is a really neat build.