So---With Visa card in hand I called Gennie Shifter---

Hi Brian, As usual your tutorials are very informative but both IC2 and I have commented about the added thickness of the 'glass fenders. I was not sure whether you have 'glass front fenders but I thought so from memories of your earlier pictures from three years ago. What this means is that even with the gennie braces there will be a problem in that the eyelet at the end of the brace will not line up and probably will need to be cut off or spliced as you did with your bumper braces. I seem to recall there were both forged AND cast steel versions of the braces and the forged may weld better than the cast, but either will probably need to be shortened. However they should solve your tire problem.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I guess I'll find out as I go along, Don. That seems to sum up everything I've done with hotrods over the last 40 years---"find out as I go along". I just love doing these "tutorials" as you call them. I hope everybody gets something from them. The roadster pickup has performed so incredibly well over the last 3 years that I have very little to actually post about now, unless I'm doing a modification like this.---Brian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

DaveW---thank you for the confirming photograph---at least now I know its not something I've done wrong. Can you tip your headlights back far enough to shine in the direction they are supposed to? If I don't modify my Kingbees, they are only going to be good for close up examination of roadkill. Denny---quit laughing---
I just went out to the garage and checked with a machinists protractor---those damn cups are setting 22 degrees off horizontal----that has to be a flaw in the design of the headlight bar.

---

Though I've not put power to my lights yet, they will tip back a fair amount - and my lights too are supposed to be Kingbees - at least that's what I ordered and paid for. Time will tell.

Regardless, I think the Lokar conduit might allow them to tip back more then the original bolt/cup/big chrome washer set up. I'll try to wade thru my basement room of freshly painted car parts today and drag out the bar and a light and take some more more pictures and post - probably this afternoon.

Hey - this is part of hot rodding - take either a donor part or a "Universal Part" and make it work ( I always love the paragraph on the instruction sheet 'The **** widget might require some minor machining/fitting/modification for use in your application')

This picture shows a KingBee installed on my new bar and tipped back as far as it can be tipped, without me doing a bit of "relieving" in the area around the spherical bottom of the headlight cup, to let it tilt more. Actually. this sin't as bad as I thought yesterday---I just checked with the machinists protractor, and the face of the headlight cup is only 5 degrees off vertical. some minor trimming of the area I showed in one of my earlier posts on this thread should let the light swing into the true vertical, which will be close to where it should be.---Brian

Brian, perhaps a batch of the bars was welded up correctly but the bend in the bar put in the wrong way. At the risk of a fatigue crack is there any possibility of bending the bar back the other way? If so that would tip the cups "UP". Another possibility is to try to get Brookville to exchange the bar for another with thecups tilted "UP". Perhaps they are stuck with a bunch that have been ben the wrong way but maybe you can get your money back and get the other type of dropped bar with the swan-neck bend?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don---Modify a brand new $300 polished stainless part in my garage???? Not in this life!! I will carve away on my 3 year old KingBee headlights, (where it doesn't show anyways). The bit of carving I have to do won't show, and it won't prevent the KingBees from being used on an original "untilted" bar if I ever want to. As far as getting money back or exchange from a hotrod part manufacturer---not too likely to happen.

Brian, I just went through this with my T. I orignally built my headlight bar with '27 Chevy lights on it, then switched to Guide 982 J lights that have a different angle to them. To get them to tilt up high enough in the socket, I opened up the slot where the carriage bolt is mounted so it can slide back further.

If you look at the place where the bolt exits the headlight there is a channel where the bolt can slide fore and aft. It hits at a certain point, but if you dremel it out and make the slot longer it will allow you to tilt the lights higher or lower, depending on which side you grind out.

That is assuming your lights have that slotted affair underneath them.

Don

Duh, I just saw that too. :o :o Story of my life, dollar short and day late. :LOL:


Don

Hi Brian,

Well maybe you can get enough tilt by carving out the bottom of the light as IToldUSo says and you have already started. I have taken a few minutes to take a picture of my straignt dropped bar which definitely shows a tilt of the cups. I puzzled over this too as to which is the "front" but with a straight bar on a standard '29 radiator shell the bar can be straight and is reversible while with your '32 radiator shell there needs to be a bend in the bar. I am still of the opinion that out there somewhere there is a shift worker who bent a whole shift worth of dropped bars in the wrong direction and now Brookville and others are stuck with them and/or are unaware of the problem. The type of "swan-neck" dropped bar I have is also polished stainless and is available from Speedway for $120 for '32s as well as '29 Ford grills. Fortunately you are among the most skilled/talented participants on this FORUM so we will take note of how you solve the problem as I am sure you will. (I am surprised the photo shows smudges around the bolt mounts, that is not visible otherwise but is probably the result of greasy fingers messing with the bolts. This bar was mounted on my fenders but removed for paint and has not yet been reinstalled.) While I am here and can mount the bar either way, a question I would have is whether the chrome buckets I bought from Speedway need the tilt "UP' or "Down"? In the worst case I can probably reverse the bar if the tilt is too much in either direction rather than carve out the bottom of the bucket. My first guess would be to face the cups "DOWN" in front and see if the slot is long enough under the light? Maybe the tilt on the cups in Brian's bar are tilted in the right direction but the angle is too extreme? As usual it is a situation for "cut and fit"!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Brian, I just went through this with my T. I orignally built my headlight bar with '27 Chevy lights on it, then switched to Guide 982 J lights that have a different angle to them. To get them to tilt up high enough in the socket, I opened up the slot where the carriage bolt is mounted so it can slide back further.

If you look at the place where the bolt exits the headlight there is a channel where the bolt can slide fore and aft. It hits at a certain point, but if you dremel it out and make the slot longer it will allow you to tilt the lights higher or lower, depending on which side you grind out.

That is assuming your lights have that slotted affair underneath them.

Don

---

Don---see picture at bottom of post 43 or 44 of this thread.

Don---Definately tipped down in the front

OK - did my picture thing.

First one - headlight bar, Lokar conduit, headlight can with slot

Second - bar at 20*, headlight installed and rotated back to the max @ 30* - and enough to spot owls in trees.

After trying for 22* for several minutes gave in at 20* and said that is close enough (like horseshoes and hand grenades) to show the limits of how my set of lights will adjust

Well, What can I say!!! It looks like we have the same headlights, but mine aren't going to rotate back like yours without lengthening the slot in the bottom of my headlight cup.---Weird!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Well, What can I say!!! It looks like we have the same headlights, but mine aren't going to rotate back like yours without lengthening the slot in the bottom of my headlight cup.---Weird!!!

---

Maybe someone in Taipei or Shanghai has taken exception to your being from 'North of the Border'.

With a die grinder and a cut off wheel, it should be a fairly easy process - (sure it is, nice friendly cutting SS) - put lots of masking or duct tape around the slot for protection and try .25 longer to start with and go from there. Your trucks rake exacerbates the problem as well:CRY: :eek: :D

Damn---Ah just hates it when Ah gets exacerbated!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Damn---Ah just hates it when Ah gets exacerbated!!!

---

Eh!! :D
It ain't contagious though**)

To me that slant on the cups of Brians new bar looks pretty extreme. Just for laughs, why not call Gennie and ask what the specs are to make sure yours is ok? Or maybe they have a suggestion?

(Boy I hope this wasn't covered in some other post or I'll have egg on my face one more time :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: )


Don

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

To me that slant on the cups of Brians new bar looks pretty extreme. Just for laughs, why not call Gennie and ask what the specs are to make sure yours is ok? Or maybe they have a suggestion?

(Boy I hope this wasn't covered in some other post or I'll have egg on my face one more time :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: )


Don

---

Do you like your eggs with bacon, ham or sausage??:whacked: :LOL:

DON---I think that a Canadian talking to an American, about some damn thing thats probably made in China, just ain't going to get much satisfaction.---Besides, I only have things together in "mock up" phase untill I get the new (well really the "old") original fender braces on, and everything tightened down. Things will probably change a bit, either for better or worse, and I will deal with it as I always so---(Bitch to everybody about it, then get out the die grinder or big hammer, and fix it).

[QUOTE=brianrupnow]DON---I think that a Canadian talking to an American, about some damn thing thats probably made in China, just ain't going to get much satisfaction


Brian - We love Canadians here in the US. Well, let me qualify that - some of the French only speakers traveling down I-87, about 2 miles from here, the main highway between the Montreal vicinity and the US South, are a trial - but ya'all come see us ya hear.

IC2---Taken as individuals, most of the Frenchies I've dealt with are pretty straight up good guys. Politics is a nasty damn thing, and yes, there are some unresolveable issues in a country that has two official languages.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

IC2---Taken as individuals, most of the Frenchies I've dealt with are pretty straight up good guys. Politics is a nasty damn thing, and yes, there are some unresolveable issues in a country that has two official languages.

---

At least Canada has official languages - we in the US sure don't - and it is Constitutionally omitted. Dammit !!

And I did qualify my statement by saying SOME of the French ONLY speakers. Good ol Gen. DeGaulle sure didn't help political matters in '68/'69 or thereabouts which is the same time period I was dating a very nice lady from Montreal - lotta miles back and forth - about wore out my Gran Prix.

Problem Resolved---10 minutes with a file and my Dremel tool. I removed 3/16" in the area shown---See before and after pictures. I took out 3/16" of metal from the area shown---This lets me tip the headlight back untill its setting right. IC2 nailed it pretty good---I think I'll take out a full 1/4" just to "make sure" that I have a bit of "overtravel" if I need it. Once everything is rewired and tightened up is NOT the time to find out I needed to take out 1/16" more.---I will post more when I get the fender brackets and start that part of the project.---Brian

Quick Dumb Question---Can I buy a 7" Halogen light that will fit in where my regular old incandescent sealed beams are, and use the same wiring pigtail, and have Hi and Lo beam?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Quick Dumb Question---Can I buy a 7" Halogen light that will fit in where my regular old incandescent sealed beams are, and use the same wiring pigtail, and have Hi and Lo beam?

---

Yep, What it is is a light mount that you use an H4 bulb. Be careful about the wattage though as your circuit was probably designed for the standard 55W and some of the high intensities are well up there. If you go more then about 60-65W, you might want to consider a relay in the system

(Glad you asked - one of my mounts is foggy and I have to replace it if I can't clean it up it.)

IC2---I completely rewired the car when I built it 3 years ago.(remember, it was stripped to a bare shell)---I did include a relay in the headlight system---Thanks for the info.---Brian

Brian and IC2, thanks for the pictures. Today I put that problem out of mind and worked on the bracket at the base of the steering column which is still unfinished. However you have generated hope and confusion on this question about the lights. I bought the cheaper Dietz headlights with what are called halogen bulbs but I thought that meant halogen sealed beams. In the Speedway catalog the King Bee headlights that you both have are offered with the H4 bulb but I think I have the sealed beam type? The halogen H4 setup can be modified to place a yellow bulb in the same space just below the halogen bulb and that would solve my turn signal problem in the front so my question is whether I can install a H4 bulb and reflecting unit in the Dietz bucket. I will have to take a closer look at my Dietz headlights which are still in the box. If I can retrofit the Dietz buckets with the H4 bulb and add the amber turn signal inside the same buckets I would be happy about that. To me the King Bee buckets look strange and I prefer the shape of the Dietz buckets. I know I specified "halogen" when I ordered the Dietz headlights so maybe I did get the H4 setup, I will have to check it out closely and if so then I can add the amber flasher bulb in the same bucket (viola!?)

Brian, I had to look in four stores today to find what I call an "Irish slouch hat" (to ward off the increasingly cold weather) relative to part of my genetic heritage only to pay a pretty high price at a local Macys store (upscale higher prices) and find that it has a label saying it is "British" but made in Italy! In my experience, Canadians are very close to American but while I can read scientific articles in French I have found that I really can't understand spoken French. I find it interesting to occasionally watch the British Parliament on BBC-TV and I always am amazed that they can string English words together in one sentence without "uh you know"; the British really seem to be able to speak English! On the other hand any linguist/philologist will tell you that English is really a polyglot of several languages and my university students used to remind me that language is constantly evolving and a dynamic process as an excuse to generate modern slang. One of the interesting developments is that "would have" became "would've" and that has now become "would of" but then again that is why we have schools to try to formalize things like language in spite of the desire of teen agers to reinvent the world! So IC2 do you think that H4 reflector will replace a sealed beam in a Dietz bucket?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

In edit mode: I just checked the headlights I got from Speedway and they are sealed beam type but the actual bulbs are marked "HALOGEN", so the question is whether the H4 reflector unit can be used where the sealed beam would be. I will check with a tech person at Speedway.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Brian and IC2, thanks for the pictures. Today I put that problem out of mind and worked on the bracket at the base of the steering column which is still unfinished. However you have generated hope and confusion on this question about the lights. I bought the cheaper Dietz headlights with what are called halogen bulbs but I thought that meant halogen sealed beams. In the Speedway catalog the King Bee headlights that you both have are offered with the H4 bulb but I think I have the sealed beam type? The halogen H4 setup can be modified to place a yellow bulb in the same space just below the halogen bulb and that would solve my turn signal problem in the front so my question is whether I can install a H4 bulb and reflecting unit in the Dietz bucket. I will have to take a closer look at my Dietz headlights which are still in the box. If I can retrofit the Dietz buckets with the H4 bulb and add the amber turn signal inside the same buckets I would be happy about that. To me the King Bee buckets look strange and I prefer the shape of the Dietz buckets. I know I specified "halogen" when I ordered the Dietz headlights so maybe I did get the H4 setup, I will have to check it out closely and if so then I can add the amber flasher bulb in the same bucket (viola!?)

Brian, I had to look in four stores today to find what I call an "Irish slouch hat" (to ward off the increasingly cold weather) relative to part of my genetic heritage only to pay a pretty high price at a local Macys store (upscale higher prices) and find that it has a label saying it is "British" but made in Italy! In my experience, Canadians are very close to American but while I can read scientific articles in French I have found that I really can't understand spoken French. I find it interesting to occasionally watch the British Parliament on BBC-TV and I always am amazed that they can string English words together in one sentence without "uh you know"; the British really seem to be able to speak English! On the other hand any linguist/philologist will tell you that English is really a polyglot of several languages and my university students used to remind me that language is constantly evolving and a dynamic process as an excuse to generate modern slang. One of the interesting developments is that "would have" became "would've" and that has now become "would of" but then again that is why we have schools to try to formalize things like language in spite of the desire of teen agers to reinvent the world! So IC2 do you think that H4 reflector will replace a sealed beam in a Dietz bucket?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

In edit mode: I just checked the headlights I got from Speedway and they are sealed beam type but the actual bulbs are marked "HALOGEN", so the question is whether the H4 reflector unit can be used where the sealed beam would be. I will check with a tech person at Speedway.

---

Don,
I have to jump in here -
- An H4 bulb is a separate bulb to fit in a specifically designed assembly.

- A halogen light was/is the intermediate step between the original tungsten and the separately replaceable bulb. They generally look like the old headlights 5.5", 7" and the rectangular 4 bulb setups

To carry it further, almost all new vehicles have some sort of replaceable bulb assembly - from H4 up to my new F350 pickup's H13. And some like the new upper end VWs and BMWs have specially designed bulbs that are made only for those models and are expensive.

The English language - an interesting polyglot of Germanic, Gaelic, Ameican Indian, India Indian and Caribbean along with many others.. The History Channel has had a program lately - usually Sunday morning while I'm having my 1st cuppa - that is showing how the language developed. It's no wonder that foreign speakers have problems with the innuendos. They might also have it on the internet as well.

Irish slouch hats are/were available froom LL Bean a lot cheaper then Macy's. Why not just go to the auld country and get an autherntic version - you will like the experience if you have never been there. Just make sure your Visa will handle the shock

Don---I am an utter babe in the woods when it comes to halogen bulbs. I have never really had anything to do with them---that will be another "figure it out as I go" thing. In terms of the English language---Go to Newfoundland sometime, and try to follow a conversation!!! Very interestingly, growing up where and when I did, there was very little communication and flow of people back and forth between small isolated communities in Ontario (mid-northern). In the 1950's when I was a teenager, they were just beginning to improve the road systems to travel more easily between these small communities, which made centralized schooling and schoolbuses possible. However---these small communities had been settled for close to 100 years, and each of them had developed a very distinct dialect. I could hear a person speak one sentence, and be able to tell if he had grown up in Hardwood Lake, Little Ireland, Coe-Hill, or Bronson---or a dozen other small communities that were all within 30 miles of each other. Now with centralized schooling and television and radio, all the people up there now speak with the same dialect, with no specific distinctions, regardless of where they grew up.

yankees and redcoats :D tet dure com'e sai chien!:D:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flh4speed

yankees and redcoats :D tet dure com'e sai chien!:D:D

---

Is that coona$$ ??

IC2/Dave, I am trying to track down where you got the halogen replacement kit. The local Va distributor for Wilk-Bilt Cars has a disconnected phone number. The best I can do for dialect is mid-NJ when speaking with "bod o. useguys!" Kojak was trying to teach us that dialect but he is gone now!

Don Shillady

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

IC2/Dave, I am trying to track down where you got the halogen replacement kit. The local Va distributor for Wilk-Bilt Cars has a disconnected phone number. The best I can do for dialect is mid-NJ when speaking with "bod o. useguys!" Kojak was trying to teach us that dialect but he is gone now!

Don Shillady

---

Don,
Did you try this web site for them?
http://www.wilkbilt.com/

Also, Speedway has the same or similar lights:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2328...mNo=headlights

or:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GmSear...load=1&start=0


But I suggest you purchase the bulbs locally - i.e. good Sylvania or GE instead of the Chinese bulbs I have in my Taiwanese lights

Well--Somethings happening---Got a call from Canada Customs today asking if I expected a package coming from USA. I said yes, and they said okay, just checking!!!

IC2/Dave, Thanks for the links, I have bookmarked the Wilk-Bilt site. However I did chat with a tech guy at Speedway and he said the yellow blinker turn signal cannot be seen when the headlights are on. Further the Speedway site you kindly provided says that their yellow LED kit cannot be added to their H4 bulb. Thus I am content with the Halogen sealed beam bulbs and I will have to figure out the turn signals some other way. The whole reason for me wanting to use the H4 bulb was so I could use the yellow LED kit with it, but if the turn signal is not visible when the headlights are on there will be no turn signal at night in the front so I will have to scrap that idea. Thanks for your help! I think I see how to hang one of the small Mr. Roadster lights from the few threads protruding from the bottom of the mount bolt but then how to get the wires into the light? That would require a T-connector for the wire conduit and then there is not much space between the fender and the bottom of the swan-neck dropped bar. Sorry to think out loud about this but I will eventually solve this problem even if I have to hang Mr. Roadster lights on the side of the cowl where original '29 Fords had accessoriy cowl parking lights. I am tempted to break all hot rod tradition and mount small turn signal lights on the crown of the front fenders by running the wires (two wires on a fiberglass body!) in the channel of the fender brace. The amber LED truck running lights in the bumper actually look pretty good except the mounting plates are flimsy even though they are stainless steel and worse, I don't see any way to hide the wires under the bumper brackets. I think I can make heavier stainless mounting brackets but hiding the wires is a problem I have not solved yet.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,
Have you considered the OEM style cowl lights for your signals - that's what I'm using instead of the normal rinky dink after market stuff. I have an idea but can't research until tomorrow AM - so will add some then:whacked:

Don,

I tried the Speedway kit, took it out and threw it away. I decided to add a couple of the hokey little accessory lights. Not elegant, but workable.

Henry Rifle, You mean the yellow insert in the headlights?

IC2, I have looked at the cowl lights and that would look closer to stock but the '29 cowl is so clean that so far I have been reluctant to clutter it with other stuff, but that may be an answer to the problem.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

IC2, I have looked at the cowl lights and that would look closer to stock but the '29 cowl is so clean that so far I have been reluctant to clutter it with other stuff, but that may be an answer to the problem.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

---

I can't disagree with you on that but most of the after market lights look so cheap, that I couldn't bring myself to using them. The lights that I was looking for to show you actually bolt to your headlights and become a part of the assembly. They were on many early cars, looked streamlined and a part of the OEM design. Unfortunately, I can't find any as after market. I'll keep looking.

Or another option - mold some Hagan's into your beautifully painted fenders - which I doubt you would consider at this time.

I understand someone is repopping Guide 682 C headlights with the turnsignal light on top. I plan on buying a set of those after the first of the year when things calm down a little.

I was glad to hear that because the originals are starting to bring stupid money and I really like the looks of them.

Don