Thanks Don, those were the ones I was thinking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Not sure but they may already be available - thought I saw some at NSRA Burlinton but since I wasn't interested didn't pursue
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Thanks Don, those were the ones I was thinking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Not sure but they may already be available - thought I saw some at NSRA Burlinton but since I wasn't interested didn't pursue
Repop Guide assemblies and parts can be found here: http://www.otbgear.com/guide682.html as they get more distributors competition should move the price down a bit over time.
These are the one's Don was talking about that fit under an H4 bulb; http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2376...ignal%20lights
Here's another type that attaches to the reflector: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000042b
Here's another alternative that will adapt to most buckets: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000042b
Personally I don't care for the tacked on "motorcycle", or whatever you want to call them, type because...............well, they look tacked on. They are cheaper though so it depends on your tastes.
Wouldn't it be a wonderfull idea if somebody would market a set of "guide" style mini buckets with lenses and bulbs (the ones that set on top of the headlight bucket) that could be retrofitted with little work to fit onto the top of a set of KingBee chrome or painted headlights. I bet they'd make a zillion bucks----
Nice - but sure not priced for the weak of financial heart:whacked: :CRY: .
As far as I know the Guide 682C headlights are now available in chrome or paintable buckets and they are advertised in Street Rodder. However the current price is about $435 for a pair and that is a little steep for me. I have also thought of drilling a hole in the top of my buckets and mountng one of the smaller Mr. Roadster lights on the top of the bucket but that is sort of what Bob is referring to in terms of tacked-on appearance. Maybe the bulb from Parr Automotive is worth consideration although it is half way in terms of price and replacement of a burnt out bulb has a high price. Bob thanks for the research on headlight bulbs. Brian has an excellent idea in that all that is needed is a pressed metal shell that can be riveted to the top of an existing bucket with a bulb socket in it and set up for a Guide replacement lens. The guy who is marketing the whole Guide 682C could probably do this but probably prefers to sell the whole unit at a higher price.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don---if you stick a Mr. Roadster light on top of your headlight, your Hotrodders Membership will be withdrawn for sheer goofiness!!! Either spend the money for some guide headlights (Ouch Ouch Ouch) or put some Mr Roadster Signal lights down on top of the framerail, or tucked under it. Or---(and this isn't a great improvement over sticking them on top of the headlight), make up a small stainless bracket that has a 17/32" hole in it and put it between the hex nut that holds your headlight in place and the headlight bar---then hang an aftermarket light off the bracket, down beside or below your headlight.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED BY BRIAN !!!!
Years ago on my T bucket I fashioned a small bracket out of .25 aluminum that I mounted under the headlight bolt and the rounded plate and installed inboard of the light. I hope you can see this setup, but I think it is something like what Brian was saying and can be easily made up:D
WOW, what peer pressure! IC2/Dave that inboard mount is worth thinking about, I will mull it over. I am attaching a picture of a restored 1929 Sport Coupe that Brian has seen before, but this time I am using it to show what the cowl lights look like on a '29. This car was recently sold by my neighbor Dick Ivey and he is now working on restoring a 1930 Fordor. The Sportcoupe had a badge which said "First in Class" from Hershey several years ago. Maybe I could use the cowl lamps for turn signals and in fact this '29 did have turn signals in the cowl lamps but they do look a bit clunky. Maybe in my overall theme of a Resto-Rod I could at least say the cowl lights are original but they do not look "roddish". I have also thought of drilling and tapping the top hump of the swan-neck dropped bar and maybe IC2's idea of a mounting plate can be used outboard of the bucket. I had a pretty good day today. Although the garage temperature hovered around 50 F and I waited for the warmer afternoon hours, I got in three solid hours work on the horrible hole I made when I cut out the tranmission tunnel from the BeBops body. I only need to finish putting two bolts into the front floor and it will be finished including mounting the accelerator pedal and cable as well as the lower mount for the steering column. Taking Bob's suggestion of over a year ago I made a mounting plate inside the firewall from 0.25" aluminum plate and bolted through from the front with a piece of 16 gauge stainless sheet painted body color. Now there are 8 bolts through the front and inner sandwich of the fiberglass firewall along with the added two bolts for the accelerator mount and the threaded carb cable mount and I hope to get you a picture soon of the finished firewall which now has a flat floor inside with a very small hump for the R700 trans with a LOT more foot room around the accelerator pedal. With the SBC/R700 driveline there is no need for a large transmission hump. This has been a long nightmare of feeling that I had made an irreversible cut in the fiberglass body, but I think I have it under control and do not want to do it again!
Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder
Its a quiet night on the forums. I am still waiting for my fender braces to arrive (think they must be coming by dogsled!!) I managed to bitch up my right shoulder yesterday---musta pulled a muscle . Can't raise my right arm above my chest without some major pain. Bummer---even if the parts come Monday, I'll have to wait for this crippled wing to heal up. Getting old sucks!!! I took a break from the Toyota job I've been working on for the last two months, and went down to the big smoke (Toronto) to see a customer that I designed a special conveyor system for last summer. This is a system thats going into a Dupont paint factory in Toronto. My customer has been waiting 3 months for a "Lid Crimper" for 5 gallon paint cans to come in from a factory somewhere in USA. This lid crimper goes into the very last station in the conveyor system, which is moving empty 5 gallon paint cans through a series of "fill" stations, where different chemicals that make up the paint are added to the cans, then puts a lid on them and sends the now filled cans out for stockpiling or shipping. I had to bring this "lid crimper" back to my place and do up a solid model of it to insert into my overall conveyor assembly. Jeez---what a neat device. I didn't even know there was such a thing---but then, if you never had to use such a thing, why would you??? Its got one great big honkin' air cylinder in the center, and an array of 16 arms that are all actuated off a central ring to crimp the lids---it sorta looks like the offspring of Mrs. Jetson and Edward Scissorhands---and, if you wondered---it took me 2 hours to measure all the major geometry on the actual part, and create this "to scale" solid model.
Today the first set of original fender braces arrived. These are the ones that I traded the original headlight bar for. Sorry for the quality of the picture----They are in amazingly good shape for something 78 years old. The holes for all of the fasteners are in good condition, not elongated or torn out. There is surface pitting, but certainly nothing that will impair the functionality. They have a few rather "interesting" bends in them, that probably did not originate at the factory. I fully expect a long and rather tortuous ordeal in making them fit what I have, but Hey---thats what oxy-acetylene is for. I am still sicker than a dog with cold/flu and have a torn up shoulder muscle to boot, so whatever happens isn't going to happen real quick. Now, tomorrow I have to box up the headlight bar and UPS it down to California---
Go back to bed and watch some daytime TV for a sleep sedative and get rid of your flu/cold.Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrupnow
With a gas wrench, anything can be made to fit - I usually like to make square pegs fit round holes
This is going to be one of those times when I wish I had steel front fenders and that they weren't painted yet. Pretty hard to get under painted glass fenders with the hot wrench and persuade the supports into the "perfect" shape. I foresee a lot of "bend it to where I think its right, off the car---wait for it to cool---bolt it on, see whats up---take it off heat and bend some more"---you get the picture!!!
Denny---I probably will make some form of template. The 3 key areas are #1--where the bracket attaches to the frame #2--where the bracket touches the inside of the fender at the headlight bar holes, and #3 at the outer lip of the fender, where there is a single bolt. Since the aftermarket braces that are on there now do fit well in those 3 areas, I will remove them one at a time, and bolt them to a steel frame (which I will build from scrap I have laying around) using the 3 base bolt holes. I will bolt peices of steel to the other 2 critical areas higher up on the fender brace, and when they are securely bolted in place, I will weld "bridges" to them from the steel frame. Then when everything has cooled, I will unbolt the aftermarket brace and remove it. ---Then I will bolt the original "new" fender braces to the same 3 base bolt holes on my welded steel frame, then heat and bend then so that they match up to the holes in my weldment. This should get things "very close". It is a kind of reverse template, but I have used this method before on similar projects, and it works very well.---Brian
Sounds like a plan to me - especially using the brackets you have currently in place as the template. Glass front fenders makes bracket fitting interesting to say the least - cut 'n' paste, bend to fit (and in my case, notch to go around the IFS):whacked: :D
Yes, when building from scratch, it gets rather interesting---The fiberglass fenders don't have any holes to align them, and the aftermarket fender braces have so much slop at the bolt holes that they will swing almost 2" to either side of "center". I was fortunate that I used an original A frame, because at least that let me correctly position the aftermarket fender braces where they attach to the frame, in the holes that were for the original fender braces. Odds are pretty damn slim that things will come close to lining up now when I go to install a set of original fender braces.
Oh well, what else did you have to do this coming winter in the frozen tundra of Ontario. We get almost the same weather, generally here but a day later after some of it dumps on Syracuse
Actually I really like the lights with the built in turnsignal in the top center headlight rim. Of course they are Ford lights with the pigtail conduit that attaches thru the radiator shell and would require extensive modification to my system. But I still think they would look good. Can't say if they would be any better turnsignals than what I got now.
Mine are located in my front valance below my grill, about 5 inches from the ground. I know the rabbits and squirrels can see them well, but not sure about on coming cars.:eek: :LOL: :LOL:
I love the Guide style headlights---the signal lights look great and are visible from the side equally as well as the front. But Man!!! At $400 a pair for repops, thats just too damn much.
I finally got my firewall hole filled with steering column mount and accelerator pedal mount with a hole through my "sandwich" firewall for the throttle cable. Unfortunately my camera is acting up and so far I can't get the pictures to my PC. I have taken a better look at the '29 style cowl lights and I think the "bling factor" against the metallic maroon paint would look great BUT (!) what keeps those goose neck mounts from twisting? There is just one bolt through the side of the cowl. Maybe the modern thing to do is to put the larger Mr. Roadster lights in the cowl where the stock lights would be, that is some chrome bling and much less weight to swing around on just one bolt. The smaller single-filament Mr. Raadster light might be the tasteful way to go for the turn signals.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Sheesh!!! What a hassle!!! You all remember, I bought a second set of fender support brackets of Ebay. I had let my Paypal lapse, because I just never use it. So---I paid with a personal cheque. And then---eventually I got an email back from the seller saying "American banks will not verify Canadian cheques"--they are going to have to snail mail to Canada to verify the cheque. So---I answered and said "Thats okay, I'm not in a rush, let them verify it by snail mail. And then---I got an email from the seller saying "The bank has informed him that the cheque will have to be mailed to the Central Commerce Bank of USA for verification---and that there is a $40.00 fee for that---and then it has to be sent on to the main Bank of Canada which requires another fee." All this for something I "won" for $60.00 So---Then I went back in to Paypal and re-registered. And then---I paid him through Paypal, and it was done in 10 minutes!!! This entire fiasco was my fault.---I never had such a problem trying to get rid of my money:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Isn't it fun to deal with EvilBay. A while back I had to replace my credit card after the number was compromised but never changed it on EBAY. I got a nastygram from them yesterday that I owed them $4.15 for a posting. I ended up paying them through PayPal, but what a hassel because they had suspended me at least temporarily. At least it was US to US monies, not Canadian to USQuote:
Originally Posted by brianrupnow
PM me and I'll give you my address. I'll take all your money that you want to send my way....................no hassle guaranteed. Hey.............I'm here to serve.:3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrupnow
Well Gee, Bob---Thanks for the offer. IC2--I think this mess up was my fault, not E-bays. I don't deal with Ebay vey much, but in the limited amount that I have dealt with them, I've really had no problem (Caused by them).
Well----I am totally blown away!!! The second set of fender braces that I purchased, thru ebay just arrived, and My God---They are just like brand new. It appears that they have never been heat, beat, or tortured---even very little pitting. I bought them from somebody called "jt" in Kansas City, and after a little dance caused by the inability to get a Canadian personal cheque cashed in USA, I paid thru Paypal, and they were promptly shipped the same day. this is the second time I have dealt with ebay, and I could not be more pleased.
Those are really clean. Should make your job a lot easier and nicer.
Although some people badmouth Ebay, I have, for the most part, had very positive results both buying and selling. I've only had a couple of bad purchases, and have had a few people put in negative feedback against me because of some things I couldn't fix (like my local postoffice that either delivers payments to my neighbor who is never home, or they hold the envelope without notifying me :mad: ) Otherwise, it has been fun and where could you find this stuff otherwise. I have found parts that I have scoured swap meets unsucessfully for, and all I had to do was send some money and it shows up.
Glad your braces were that kind of deal Brian.
Don
Looks like you have a pair for fit up and a pair to use. Glad that your purchase was a success. And as much as I complain about eBay, I've had only one really bad experience - and it was selling an original '57 T-Bird OD tranny to a total idiot that said it was a regular Ford OD tranny - (except I was the guy that pulled it out of the 'bird wreck about 1960). Good luck - keep us up to date on the mods
Went to the Doc yesterday about my tore up shoulder. It seems that my self diagnosis was right---its a torn rotator cuff tendon or muscle. Its taken 3 friggin weeks to get a doctors appointment, and the pain has been crazy. I had 3 x-rays and a cortisone shot in the joint yesterday, and at least the pain is gone now. I'm scheduled to start physiotherapy tomorrow to regain the mobility in the shoulder, but at least it seems that I won't need surgery. Have to wait for everything to heal up before I can start rolling around on the cement garage floor wrestling with old hotrod parts.---Brian
Darn it, I was going to ask you to stop by and help me put the body on the frame between Christmas and New Years. You're only 3-400 miles away and you could make the round trip in a day - easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrupnow
Glad you finally found some relief. I messed up both shoulders different times while skiing and it just takes time to heal (and is also age dependant:CRY: ). Unfortunately, my left shoulder had some nerve damage and even 20+ years later, I still can't sleep on that side
I just phoned Hortons in Milton Ontario, to enquire about a set of Halogen style headlights that would be direct bolt in replacements for the 7" sealed beams in my 7" Kingbee headlights. (Heck, I figure, if its all apart anyways---:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: ). Anyways, a set complete with the proper bulbs from Speedway Motors will cost me $88 plus tax and shipping. I don't do a lot of night driving, but when I do---there are a lot of wild critters on the highway around here. I,ve seen the havock wreaked on a glass full fendered roadster that hit a porcupine!!! It would be nice to be able to see them well enough to avoid them----Brian
Brian,Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrupnow
If you can get the lights without the crap Chinese H4 bulbs you will be better off...........the H4 are probably not legal there. Instead go to Wally World and get a pair of 9003s which are DOT in the US. I posted this earlier - I have no idea who Candlepower are but the Sylvania 9003XV that I just got are for sure legal
I, too have to agree that Silverstars ain't worth a dam' which is why I bought the the XV (2 sets of SS on my '01 truck). The XV's are a step up from the OEM candles and so far have been just fine in my '06.Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
I have not had to worry to much about turn signals on the 31 Ford RPU. They always work, turns off when I want them to, and they are hidden when not in use.
Its my left arm.:LOL: I just put it straight out when I want to signal to go left and
I bend it up at the elbow when I want to go right.
I recently purchased the Speedway dropped headlight bar for my 28 Ford RPU. It currently has the 28, 29 headlights with H4 halogen ligths already in place, I just want to get them down like on the 29 sedan in the pic. As you can see it has the funky turn siganls mounted on the frame rails. I would like to eliminate them and find something less conspicuous, like inside the headlight bucket. Or maybe an arm...
CCL
Here is a pic of the 28 Ford RPU. The 31 and the 28 are both full Henry Ford steel.
CCL
80% of the people around here think that a hand turn signal is a rude gesture!!!
boxstr, very pretty little RPU. Like the red a lot. I am starting to use hand signals more and more on my T. We hooked up turnsignals to the rear lights, but the switch is a little tough to find under the seat, and I keep forgetting to turn it off as there is no indicator on the dash. Consequently, I fit the stereotype of the old man driving along for miles and miles with his blinker on. Not so bad to do that in my regular car, but NOT COOL in a hot rod. :LOL: :LOL:
Don
Don---Go to Radio Shack and buy a timer---wire it in series with your blinkers. You can set the time dwell so that it will shut off the blinker after a specified time. Avoid the "old man blinker" image.
Just what is wrong with the H4 bulbs anyway? I have them on my roadster and am really pleased with them. When we were up at Lake Tahoe last summer they sure lit up those dark mountain roads.
Read my post, attached, of a couple of weeks ago. If you have some "good" H4 bulbs, not a problem as long as they pass your state inspection. If you need to change them out, the best choice is the DOT spec 9003 bulbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hidebinder
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34354
You do have to open a .pdf file to read this though
Well guys, its less than a week untill March. My hotrod instincts are a bit like a Maple tree--as we get closer to spring, the hotrod sap starts to flow up from my roots---. Its been a long cold winter, and my arthritis has been horrible this year, but lets think about good things---hotroddy things!!! My new dropped headlight bar does not exactly match the angle of the fenders at the point where the ends of it contact the fenders. (I would have been very surprised if it did). If they were steel fenders, I would just tighten the bolts untill everything "conformed", but with painted glass fenders, I don't think that would be a good idea. I am going to get some plasticene (steal it from my grand daughter) and trowel a layer of it over the ends of the headlight bar (after putting a bit of paste wax on the ends of the bar and the contact area on the fenders), then bolt everything up "medium snug". I will then unbolt the headlight bar, and measure the resulting "wedge" of plasticene. This will give me measurements to have a couple of wedges of the same sized material machined from aluminum or stainless to perfectly fill the gap. I will have it machined "in the flat", then bend it with my body hammer and round face dolly to match the curve of the fenders.---Sound reasonable??---Brian (the crumbly looking stuff on the fender is just fiberglass dust---I had to enlarge the bolt holes thru the fenders a bit)
Can I have a clarification on the H4 lights? I was just going to replace the sealed beams bulbs (early type halogen) in the stainless Dietz shells with the Speedway 910-61018 7" fluted bulbs. My wife's car is a 2003 Saturn and the headlights are really great so I assumed the H4 bulbs were like that. My "plan" was/is to keep the beautiful STAINLESS Dietz shells (Speedway 911-01007), replace the sealed beam bulbs with the 910-61018 7" and then add the Speedway kit 910-64150 for turn signals so as to end up with retaining the nice stainless shells, brighter lights and turn signals. Are these H4 bulbs the ones that don't last? I checked on this conbination with one of the tech guys at Speedway and he said it will work but there was no mention of bulb lifetime.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder