40 Chev Gasser w BBC

Got to talking w a buddy over the weekend who bought my 40 Chev tudor a few years ago. It was a complete running stocker w some rust issues (MN is a rust belt state). Like so many projects. He hit it hard at the beginning, but sadly stalled when other interests got in the way. He wants to swap my boat (16' 73 Crestliner Glass runabout) for the car back, I never use the boat , the car is still in my name and he Soda blasted it, replaced all of the rockers -(inner and outer), rear Qtrs, floors.,installed a 305 4bbl/T350 w CE mounts, 57 Chevy 3:31 RE. and he bought a PILE of parts from Chevs of the Forties. I am thinking about it. But Only IF I can get my 461 BBC in it W/O hacking the car all to pcs. A Strictly old school budget deal, No MII's,(absolutely definately -NO clips, Nova or otherwise) AC or Power anything including brakes(not enough vacumn) My idea of accessories is a heat/def, wipers + a radio. Either the just gone through stock front suspension w heavier springs or A straight axle. (47-54 Chevy PU axle) and using disc brakes on either.
A street gasser style car. Back in the day, there were literally hundreds of these 39-48 Chev's w BBC's in them. I know, I raced against them. How did they do it? Exaust manifolds? fenderwell headers? Certainly there would be no thru/in frame ready made headers for this. Basically the mounts are done. but I want a T400 + not a T350, so a trans Xmember would have to be made. Selling the BBC and going SBC is NOT an option + Milage is NOT an issue w my BBC. If it was, I would not have built it to begin with. I want to use up the things I have laying around here (not a small amount of parts,several cars worth) w/o buying much at all except the usual build supplies like rebuild parts, bearings ,wiring ,putty and paint if I can help it.
If I cannot do it easily and old school, I'll pass on the car. I am not one of those guys who flips open my check book and flies off checks for the latest styles,products or billet dohicky whatever are or chase trophy's (tho I have my share). Nothing against them, but its not me.
1.As sold when I had it B4,
2. photoshop a young fellow did for me,
3. The fresh 0 mile BBC in question (has a Street Demon now)

A couple of things come to mind. First, interference at the steering box if you plan to retain the stock front suspension/steering. Most of the time, this can be overcome by moving the motor/trans toward the passenger side of the car. As long as you keep the crankshaft centerline perpendicular to the rear axle centerline, you won't have any u-joint problems. Chrysler moved the big V8's as much as 3 inches from body centerline on OEM cars back in the day. The other thing is headers and you're on your own there. Maybe block huggers from a company like Sanderson would work or you may have to build your own or use manifolds, I don't know. It may be worth some time spent to search these header manufacturer websites or even call a few of them. You never know, they may have a set on the shelf made for your application.
http://www.roadsters.com/engines/#Headers

I think i have it all figured out on paper except that steering box issue , But you may be right about moving the motor over , I've done that B4. Speedways fenderwell headers solved some problems for me B4 as well. On a street rod I would not use them. But on a gasser type of car they would be right at home. But then I would run a MII and the problem would be mute anyway.

From the way the 305 is sitting in there I think the BBC will work if I use fenderwell headers. May have to split the column shaft from the box and run it between the tubes tho. Not a big deal, I'll just use a 3/4" shaft or maybe a "D" shaft and collar then pin it.

Something looks funky to me concerning the wheelbase. Has the rear diff been moved forward in the car, ala early funny style?

In the first picture, the car sitting on the street, it looks like the whole body has been re-positioned rearward on the frame. Then in the shop photo, the rear looks to be re-positioned forward and the front looks like it has been moved the other way, shortening up the wheelbase. WAZZUP?

In 1937 to 54 Chevys the RE is forward factory not centered. It has to do with their suspension movement I'm told. You need to redrill the centering holes 1" forward in the replacement pads on the late model RE to center it. The front clip is loose giving the impression of the front being moved rearward. It is not done yet in the shop photo. In the photoshop the front axle was moved forward aka A/FX,but the rear is an eye fooler caused by the tire smoke.